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random misfire on start up 2003 Seville


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I'm more leaning towards the timeserts for one the instructions video looks pretty straight forward.for the timeserts can I use the original dowel pins or do I have to get different ones? Oh I was just asking about the big serts cause I read that time serts fail more than the other kits but I also read that was the older time serts and the time serts now have a coarser thread have is this true?

sts03

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I used Jakes studs. I had a loooong wait for all my stuff to show up and by then I didn't have time available for the job anymore. Turned into an ordeal, so I would say if you were to use them, be positive he has everything ready before you start. I wanted to see what was up inside the engine before I started, so I ended up waiting. Otherwise, I liked Jake and he was very helpful and his parts were a-one. I had heard about failures with the timeserts, and intend to drive my car basically forever, and to me the insecurity of the timeserts made my choice. In retrospect that may have been unfounded, but I am happy with what I did. I know there are people doing the timeserts without taking the engine out of the car which can't happen with studs (pro) and then the lower leak would still be there (or waiting to appear) if you have that problem(con). My own opinion of the studs is: it may be over build, but it will not possibly be under built. The fact that bolts spin in the threaded hole versus the nut spinning on the stud (nothing turning inside the aluminum) means a more reliable repair to me also. There is a reason the really powerful engines use studs, including CHRF, though i realize I am not making that power. If I were a factory turning out thousands of engines, I would want to use the cheapest that I would not result in excessive warranty work. For one engine, "mine", a little more cash is not the deciding factor. My peace of mind was.

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yea i dont know what im going to use yet ,i just read another thread about time serts saying they use the same fine thread pitch does anyone know if the time serts use a coarser thread now?

sts03

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The misfire is actually worse after I drive the car and its warmed up and if I go in the store for a few then come out and start it acting like its going to cut off and When I start driving its starts studdering bad then take off studder take off while the ses light flashes and smoke coming out of the exhaust with a strong burning smell (probably cat cooking) sometimes if I cut the car off for a few it will be a lot better other times it will smooth out on its own.not sure if that's related to the head gasket leak cause it does this only after I've been driving around?

sts03

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What do the plugs look like? Do they have all the platinum pads on the ground electrodes?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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yes, depending on where and how it fails.

In some cases when you shut the car off the cooling system pressure will push into a cylinder and on the next startup it misfires til the cylinder is clean. But should clear up within a few minutes of running

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Maybe that's what it is idk, cause it will smooth out and drive fine.but the smoke doesn't smell sweet its a burnt Smell (maybe the cat is cooking) and it will smoke a lot and does eventually go away.I just topped of my Coolant yesterday and only drove about 20-30 miles and the surge tank is almost empty .its disappearing fast so I wouldn't be surprised if the misfire on warm start up is from the head gasket leak also cause it well clear up and run smooth.

sts03

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i went ahead and order the ccc studs ,for one the price was good and he has a lot of videos on how to install .there is a lot bickering on another forum about ccc studs and suregrips on the use of the jig plate, suregrip kit comes with plate and ccc studs does not but from ccc videos and using two different drill biits and taps one to get the hole started and the other to finish .besides the head gaskets what other gaskets should be replaced?

sts03

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$299, if I bought inserts I would of had to buy new studs.the cheapest time sert kit I found was $400 as the same as norms then arp head studs were I think close to $200.

sts03

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im going to try if i get time next to start removing the engine ,im trying to figure out about the wiring harness cause in the fsm the only section for removing the engine is for replacement which calls for more steps than needed.does the whole main wiring harness with pcm come out with engine ,alsoo there are two wiring harnesses going in the fuse box do those diconnect or does the fuse box come out to?or can the wiring harness stay in if you diconnect everything from engine/transaxle?

sts03

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You need to unplug the crank sensors, oil pressure sender, oil level sender, etc. and feed the harness up into the engine bay and lay it out of the way. Make notes on how the harness is routed so you will be able to intall it in the proper location. The injector harness unplugs in the engine compartment as does the transmission harness.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Be sure and unplug the EBTCM and the grounds from the wiring harness and ABS pump.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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So the main harness to pcm and the two harnesses going into the fuse box (which I think are part of the main harness) stay in When the engine is dropped? I've seen a few videos where some bring the harness /pcm out with the engine.

sts03

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So the main harness to pcm and the two harnesses going into the fuse box (which I think are part of the main harness) stay in When the engine is dropped? I've seen a few videos where some bring the harness /pcm out with the engine.

It has been awhile but I think the harness needs to be disconnected from the PCM. The shop manual has specific steps depending on if you're pulling the engine from the top or dropping the entire powertrain out the bottom.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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See that's the problem for me in the fsm it only has engine replacement which requires a lot more to be removed than actually needed to do the head gaskets.some of the videos I watched they bring the whole harness out with pcm ,I wasn't sure if that way was easier or something I'll figured out once I get in there.I want trying to separate the engine/transaxle if I don't have to but is there any other way to hold the crankshaft from turning when trying to take the damper off?

sts03

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There is a window in the bell housing where you can use a special tool to hold the crankshaft by the flywheel bolts.

A common error is leaving the EBTCM connected when dropping or pulling the engine. The EBTCM and brake manifold with ABS pump assembly is anchored; I'm not sure whether it is to the cradle or the frame but I think it's the cradle. If you know where the EBTCM is going and you aren't going to yank the connector off, fine. But if you do, you destroy the connector and GM hasn't sold kits to fix that for years now. Someone did that with my car and caused me a year of grief before I found it myself.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Yeah I know the ebtcm is just below the water pump area , not sure if its on the cradle or not .the only thing I can remember in the fsm is to disconnect the two brake lines running into it.I have to CD version of the fsm so I'm going to print the steps off .It would be a little better if they had steps for engine removal instead of engine replacement.the special tool to hold the fly wheel is that something that any part store will have or is that a Special order item?

sts03

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The EBTCM/brake manifold/ABS motor has *all* the brake lines running into it. If it says two, it is talking about the two to the master cylinder, and the rest are OK because it is staying with the brake lines to all four wheels at the time.

When you take off brake lines, be *sure* to mark which ones go in which holes in the brake manifold. There is no simple way to hook up the brake manifold from scratch and its very difficult to check without a Tech II, so take a picture of it and mark each hose before you unscrew the first one.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I did a tranny on a 96 awhile back and what I did was unhook it from the subframe and tied it up out of the way. Not sure if that can be done when removing the engine

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I did a tranny on a 96 awhile back and what I did was unhook it from the subframe and tied it up out of the way. Not sure if that can be done when removing the engine

Exactly - no need to unhook the brake lines. Three nuts and the module is free from the subframe. Just use a bungee cord to hold it out of the way. On an old car, brake lines never seem to want to loosen easily. Even those that have never been in road salt.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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look at my pictures on ebay. 2003 STS everything stays attached. Take out the strut bolts on the strut and leave the caliper on and looses the brake line from the body and strut. Put a small 2x4 under right body to engine mount resting on control arm so the cam sensor doesn't get damaged. Its easy if you have done hundreds of them like an hour worth of work. Undo the one connector and green connector at fuseblock on passenger side.

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Yea this will be my first time.your talking about the upper strut mount bolts right ? Is your Ebay name the same? Ok I saw your Ebay page so you leave struts in car ,I notice some dropped struts with car.

sts03

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