rockfangd Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 What would make a timeserted block fail? would it be improper install or lack of maintnence in the cooling system? I am just curious because I had my 97 timeserted about 10k miles ago and have been trouble free GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 An insert can fail if The holes are improperly aligned. If you use the Timesert alignment tool (or equivalent for the inserts that you are using - and yes, studs use inserts too) this should not be a problem. Trying to shortcut the time to do the job by skipping the alignment tool is the most common cause for failure of insert jobs. The metal in the threads is cracked or unsound. This can happen if corrosion or damage from problems before installation intrudes into the area needed for the threads. Also, drilling or tapping too fast can overheat the new threads and cause cracking. Patience and drilling/tapping lube are virtues. Trying to shortcut the time to do the job and overheating the threads in either drilling or tapping is the second most common cause of failure of insert jobs. The hole can be drilled too deep (perforation!) or too shallow (insert bottoms before the flange tightens at the top). The Timesert kit provides guides for depth of drilling and tapping. The threads can be too shallow and the insert doesn't tighten properly or at the right height. The Timesert kit provides guides for depth of drilling and tapping. Lack of threadlock or improper use of threadlock in installation can allow the insert to unscrew when the head bolt or stud is loosened in a future repair. The bolts or studs can be improperly tightened. Too loose can allow coolant in the head bolt wells; too tight can damage the threads. You can get coolant in the head bolt wells and corrode the new threads, weakening them. Make sure that your head and block surfaces are clean and free of scratches or blemishes at the coolant sealing points and that you use good quality gaskets, and use torque-and-twist procedures as specified for the head bolts or studs that you are using. These are the obvious. Murphy knows other ways. But most carefully done Timesert jobs last as long as you keep the coolant clean. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 If no metal came out with the threads on the Timserts, you might try putting the Timeserts back into their holes, this time with threadlock. If the heads torque down OK, they will probably be OK. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 sts03, Did e If no metal came out with the threads on the Timserts, you might try putting the Timeserts back into their holes, this time with threadlock. If the heads torque down OK, they will probably be OK. When a Timesert is installed, the installation tool must be used as it mechanically swages the end of the insert to lock it to the block. That alond with the threadlocker keeps the insert installed. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 sts03, Did e If no metal came out with the threads on the Timserts, you might try putting the Timeserts back into their holes, this time with threadlock. If the heads torque down OK, they will probably be OK. When a Timesert is installed, the installation tool must be used as it mechanically swages the end of the insert to lock it to the block. That alond with the threadlocker keeps the insert installed. What are your thoughts on re-using the Timesert? -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 No way would I reuse a Timesert. If the Timesert does not hold, a Bigsert needs to be used. I don't know how a used Timesert could be installed to the proper depth since the installation tool opened the bottom up on the first install. If you look at a Timesert, the bottom is closed down slightly. The installation tool looks like a thread plug gage. The insert is threaded onto the installation tool and then threadlocker is applied to the bottom. The insert is then installed using the tool. Once the insert is bottomed out on the upper shoulder, the tool displaces the necked down area to lock it to the block. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 No way would I reuse a Timesert. ... What he said. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 SIX of the studs were loose and two of the time serts came out with the studs.I just installed my CCC studs I got from Tim Carroll. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 Here is another pic. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 nice pics. Wonder if the previous attempt was rushed GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 One of the things about changing from the stock head bolts with an aluminum engine is that the head bolts or studs stretch with the clamping force and the torque-and-twist specs determine the clamping force. This allows a difference in expansion over temperature to keep the clamping force within bounds. When you put in your own studs, you must determine the alloy and diameter of the studs, and the torque-and-twist specs that you use, so that the clamping force is appropriate for the engine at all operating and storage temperatures. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 Got the engine in and bolted to bell housing. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 no pics? good progress. GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Well the caddy is back on the road.big thanks to everyone for all the help.she is running smooth too. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 I think that we can declare victory, but we want to hear about how it goes over the next few weeks. And again, in about three months, we can put final closure to the problem. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 excellent start. Makes you feel very good to be successful GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Yep I'll keep y'all updated. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sts03 Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 She is still running strong, so far so good. sts03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Rogan Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 I have a 2001 cadillac seville sls. got it from an auction. has 91000 miles. It keeps throwing pcm p0300 codes, engine light, and idles rough at stop signs and when parked.the plenum had a air leak. replaced it. some vacuum hoses cracked so i replaced those. there was a cyl 2 misfire code so i looked and there was alittle oil in around the spark plug so i cleaned it out and put all new spark plugs. but when i took the coil pack off it touched the engine while it was still hooked up and made a spark noise and i tested it and two of the things didnt have any juice going to them so i got a new coil pack from the junk yard and put it on. i cleaned the throttle body and egr valve. i put a new fuel filter on. after all that it seemed to run excellent until i drove it half mile when the light came back on and it started idling bad again. checked the fuel pressure regulator and its fine as far as i can tell. the fuel pressure is low though. it says 35 psi. it does jump when i put the throttle down and when i take the tube off of the fuel pressure sensor it jumps up to 40psi or so. when i turn the car to the on possition the fuel pressure tester kinda slowly makes its way to 35psi. What does this mean? i took the fuel pump out to look at it and the filter packet thing on the bottom of the fuel pump looks kinda blackish like maybe its dirty and making bad fuel flow or something. not sure why im getting low fuel pressure but worse of all this p0300 code is killing me. it says that on the dash but autozone's tester was more specific and told me it was p0304 (cyl 4). any ideas? please help. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 I have a 2001 cadillac seville sls. got it from an auction. has 91000 miles. It keeps throwing pcm p0300 codes, engine light, and idles rough at stop signs and when parked. the plenum had a air leak. replaced it. some vacuum hoses cracked so i replaced those. there was a cyl 2 misfire code so i looked and there was alittle oil in around the spark plug so i cleaned it out and put all new spark plugs. but when i took the coil pack off it touched the engine while it was still hooked up and made a spark noise and i tested it and two of the things didnt have any juice going to them so i got a new coil pack from the junk yard and put it on. i cleaned the throttle body and egr valve. i put a new fuel filter on. after all that it seemed to run excellent until i drove it half mile when the light came back on and it started idling bad again. checked the fuel pressure regulator and its fine as far as i can tell. the fuel pressure is low though. it says 35 psi. it does jump when i put the throttle down and when i take the tube off of the fuel pressure sensor it jumps up to 40psi or so. when i turn the car to the on possition the fuel pressure tester kinda slowly makes its way to 35psi. What does this mean? i took the fuel pump out to look at it and the filter packet thing on the bottom of the fuel pump looks kinda blackish like maybe its dirty and making bad fuel flow or something. not sure why im getting low fuel pressure but worse of all this p0300 code is killing me. it says that on the dash but autozone's tester was more specific and told me it was p0304 (cyl 4). any ideas? please help. Thank you. Key on, engine off pressure should be 48-55 psi. With the engine running, the pressure should not drop when you rev the engine. With the engine running, if you remove the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure should go up to 55 psi unless the fuel pressure regulator has a split diaphram. If there is any fuel seeping out of the fuel pressure regulator nipple with the vacuum line dsconnected, the fuel pressure regulatir is bad. The strainer will have a dark color to it - that doesn't mean it is plugged - the material gets discolored after it sits in gasoline for an extended period of time. It sounds like the fuel pump is weak and not putting out the correct pressure but you need to verify the fuel pressure regulator is good before replacing the pump. If you swap coil packs, does the misfire move to the rear bank (cylinders 1-3-5-7)? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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