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When the torque converter slips it is generating a lot of heat. See my thread on the topic. Get it fixed or you will eventuayburn up the trans.

Y

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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If the solenoid just gives up trying to engage the TCC, and you don't drive in the mountains or tow or otherwise do anything to overheat your transmission, you may be OK. If the TCC is still trying to engage but is slipping, you can have KHE's problem.

I would try to find out whether it is the TCC solenoid or the TCC itself.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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PO741 is the only code.

Of course over the phone my dealer said $2400 to $2800 without seeing the vehicle.

I tried the lock up test thingy and no rpm jump, (good or bad?) and I guess my whole goal is to not do a tear down if I can just drive the car for another 70k miles.

It already has a very slight lower crankcase leak and I'm sure the head gasket could go at some point (who knows?). That's potentially 8k in future repairs. Not to mention if the crank shaft sensor goes, that's another $1200 at a transmission shop.

I love the car and am not complaining, just need it for transpo for about 3 more years.

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Crankshaft sensors are an easy repair - I think by 2003, they were using better sensors anyway.

My car had 187,173 miles on it before the clutches in the torque converter started to come apart and plug the scavenger screens in the pan. The code was set for the last 60,000 miles. At first, the code was very infrequent but the last couple of years, it has been set on a regular basis.

Dealerships are usually not the least expensive places to repair a car - I'm repairing my own car but if I had to pay someone to do it, it would be a local transmission shop with a good reputation.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Don't go to a dealer with an old car and a major repair unless you have a very good reason and the Goodwrench warranty is very good on the item (ask!). RockAuto will sell you a manufactured transmission for about $1400 with $600 core. Also, Jasper sells remanufactured transmissions, will recommend an installer near you, and can get you back on the road with minimal down time as arranged with the installer.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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If you need to replace the trans. check www.car-part.com . It is a nationwide search of salvage yards. I found a transmission with torque converter for my '97 STS with only 52,578 miles on it for $350.00 with a 1 year warranty at a junkyard 30 minutes from my house. If the trans. goes bad in the warranty period, they will find me another unit with comparable miles and pay $500.00 in labor for the install.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Called a local tranny shop that has been around for 51 years, the tech said don't worry about it, just drive it, won't hurt it.

If the torque converter is not locking up, it will be generating a lot of heat which will eventually will destroy the clutches in the torque converter and generate debris. The debris will eventually clog the scavenger screens. I drove my car for a few years but it did eventually destroy the torque converter. I am in the process of changing the transmission.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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  • 2 weeks later...

I suggested this before - but can't we short out the brake switch so as to trick the TCC that the brake is being pressed. I would think this would prevent the TCC from attempting lockup. I believe it's separate from the brake light, but it might be part of the cruise control release. so this might be an issue for some to try.

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There are two brake switches on your car, one to the BCM to control the stoplights and one to the PCM for the ABS, TC, ESC, and cruise control. If you short one of them, you will set a code.

It seems to me that if you do figure out a way to keep the PCM from turning on the TCC, you won't be solving the problem of heat generation. If there is or TCC debris that is generated when the TCC turns on, that will be addressed. The TCC turns on when the vehicle speed is over about 40 mph and the RPMs match. So, if you drive the car where you rarely exceed 40 mph, the TCC should not be a problem. When you are driving fast enough to turn on the TCC, the MIL light will turn on, indicating that the P0741 has been thrown and is CURRENT.

My remark to anyone who chooses to drive with P0741 CURRENT is that they should avoid highway driving, particularly in mountainous areas, and not to tow with the vehicle (towing is always a bad idea with most cars; rent a truck!

What MAC has found is that sometimes the TCC can generate debris that will farkle the whole transmission when you drive with P0741 long enough.

As a general thing, I won't advise anyone to drive a car with an OBD code CURRENT because the presence of the codes, particularly codes that turn on the MIL, means that continuing to drive the car can harm the car. Even if the "harm" is just driveability or a slight hit on gas mileage, keeping your car in good repair supports keeping your car the way that you expect it to be when you own and drive a Cadillac.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 3 months later...

I just saw some videos on youtube where the transmission side pan is opened up, some brake lines set aside, along with the drivers side mount, and the tcc solenoid can be replaced from the top. The pain is re-installing the solenoid retaining clip. The video explains a magnetic stick helps guide the clip in place. I am curious if anyone here has tried this? I dont recall. Hopefully i dont need to ever do this job, but its nice to see that it doesnt need the trans to be dropped.

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BodybyFisher replaced his TCC solenoid without removing the trans. but he lowered the cradle using threaded rods as Logan did a few years before him.

I'd try that technique IF all that was wrong was the TCC solenoid causing the P0741 code.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Is the left side axle leaking? More or less it's the tcc solenoid, the two turbine seals on the upper channel plate, and a converter. Whats the condition of the fluid?

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Mine had both the 1860 and 0741 codes.

In my case. A bad TCC solenoid was verified by measuring the resistence at the forward transmission plug.

Mine had the problem at about 120k...the replaced solenoid and trans were still ok at about 200k when I sold the car. No trans codes.

There are quite a few videos on youtube showing how-to-without dropping the cradle. May be worth a try...but it will only fix it IF you have both the 1860 and 0741 codes.

In my case, I lowered the cradle on rods to gain access to the side cover. See attached pic. The other side of the cradle also had rods that you cannot see in the pic.

post-2-0-91150400-1397830104_thumb.jpg

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I liked how you did it with the rods. Very good idea. my Deville started throwing the p0741 at 200k

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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  • 2 weeks later...

Your gonna need the seals in the channel plate and a converter. You can keep driving it but overdrive will be out.

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Your gonna need the seals in the channel plate and a converter. You can keep driving it but overdrive will be out.

The car will still have overdrive (4th gear). The torque converter won't lock up which will cause lower fuel economy (3-4 MPG less) and the torque converter will generate a lot of heat due to the slippage which will eventually destroy the clutches in the torque converter.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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