debartz Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Hi Everyone, My 1996 Concourse developed a problem. The trunk will open and close with the push button but the pull down will not work. The dashboard says "trunk open" because the pull down is in the up position. Is there a fuse that maybe bad and where do I find it? Thanks, Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 There is a 20 Amp fuse in the trunk compartment fuse block marked "PULL DOWN FUSE" that you can check. The switch that tells the PZM that the trunk lid is ajar is inside the pull-down motor assembly. If the fuse is OK and the OBD codes don't tell you anything, there are those here who have had the pull-down apart and fixed it that can tell you what to do next. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 My 1996 Concourse developed a problem. The trunk will open and close with the push button but the pull down will not work. The dashboard says "trunk open" because the pull down is in the up position.Is there a fuse that maybe bad and where do I find it? Thanks, Don This happened to my uncle's 1996 Concours this past Saturday, probably the 4th occurrence in as many years; each time was during a long period of below -10 C temperatures. I suspect it is due to a combination of arc erosion of the contacts and frost accumulation on the pull-down unit switch that provides electrical continuity (in the upper position) once the trunk lid is no longer in the closed position. Applying heat to the unit while periodically depressing the switch and allowing it to return to the upward position as rapidly as possible should address the immediate condition if this is the case with yours. I dismantled a spare original switch that exhibited similar temperature-dependent intermittent behaviour and found the contact grease had become ineffective long ago, and significant arc erosion was evident on the contact in question (lower arrow). After cleaning up everything and applying fresh grease, I re-assembled the unit using the original rivets and some solder to hold them in place, and it's now installed and under evaluation. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debartz Posted December 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Ok, Thanks Kevin and Jim. It has been cold here. I live between Madison and Milwaukee. Temps have been between teens and single digits. I'll check the fuse and see if that is the problem. If not maybe I'll try warming it up and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 The upper latch switch can break - you might want to unplug it and check it with an ohm meter while activating it. Also, the wiring can break where it runs along the deck lid hinge. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 I had the same problem as in the picture above last year on my Deville. But yes the lid switch located by the latch can break or come off and cause trouble GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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