Ohio Jim Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Good evening once again to all, Now that the hoilidays are approaching, and the weather is getting good, as in six degrees the other night, (burr), I have an old friend rearing it's ugly head. Sometimes when I attempt to crank the car, the car acts as though there is no battery connection. The clock on the radio never loses time or fails to light up. Sometimes I hear a 'pop' across the radio speakers. The car will sometimes require two to 15 turns of the key, to get any kind of response from the starter. This has occurred, off and on, for the last 4 years! I keep the battery terminals as clean as possible, using a battery cleaner foam whiich turns purple in the presence of acid. It rarely turns color, and I am careful to tighten the connections firmly, as to not strip out the soft lead threaded side terminals in the six month old battery. I plan to try Permatex Dielectric grease next. Does anyond know if that may cure the problem? The package lists the uses for moisture and spark plug boots, but not battery connections. I plan to apply it right onto both sides of the battery terminals and side post connections to see if that will give me a permanent connection. ANY THOUGHTS??? Thanks in advance! Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdgrinci Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Couple things come to mind (though may be off-base): ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter motor itself. Chuck '19 CT6, '04 Bravada........but still lusting for that '69 Z-28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 solenoid... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 C & C and Texas Jim, Thanks for your thoughts! I will proceed with the checks. Tonight, I used some CRC 2-26 electronic cleaner on both battery cable connections to the battery. I am about to button them back up and see if that does anything for me. I will keep you posted if I ever fix this issue. Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 16, 2013 Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 I would susprct the starter solenoid. A starter rebuilder can test the starter and solenoid assembly and repair what is wrong with it for much less money than a POS starter from one of the chain stores. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted December 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 KHE, Good thought! (POS) LOL I have a local guy who rebuilds alternators and starters in my area. My problem is wokring 6 days x12 hr weeks leaves me no downtime for the car. I found a posting on line toting a CRC product, "2-26". Last week saturday I brought the car into the building at work and cleaned the battery terminals again with this product. I had to wait 4-6 hours for it to completely dry. I put the batttery connections back and have not had an issue yet this week. So I am waiting to see if the problem persists before I move on it... meanwhile, I need two front whell bearings, axles, plugs, wires, etc.....LOL Thanks for your thoughts KHE, Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted December 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Update! Well I cleaned the terminals with CRC 2-26 on 12/18/13. Not to make any predictions, but it is the 27th of December, and I have not experience the no-crank situation since. Just a coincidence...I would think so!! I'll let you know when it all starts not starting once again! lol Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Update! Rock Auto axles finally aririved yesterday... Now it is the 4th of January and still no problems cranking the car... Fix may have worked.. Tomorrow I will be replacing both front wheel bearings and axles. After reading other posts, I suppose the prudent thing to do, would be to remove the negative battery cable... I kinda don't want to, but dont want to risk a shorting...Right??? I'll let you know how it all turns out! Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Update! Rock Auto axles finally aririved yesterday... Now it is the 4th of January and still no problems cranking the car... Fix may have worked.. Tomorrow I will be replacing both front wheel bearings and axles. After reading other posts, I suppose the prudent thing to do, would be to remove the negative battery cable... I kinda don't want to, but dont want to risk a shorting...Right??? I'll let you know how it all turns out! Ohio Jim What would you short out replacing the axles? I think "Disconnect negative battery cable" is at the start of any task list in the shop manual. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 KHE, Lord only knows! I try to error on the side of caution, as I lost an eye by not being careful. I read the other night, I believe on this web site, the possibility of shorting a wedding ring to the starter cable, hence, losing the finger...As it turned out, we did not disconnet the cable, because I forgot. I never got close enough to anything to get a short going.....as we were unable to get either front rotor off, nor could we dislodge the axles from bearings to get the party started. I did not have my torches with me, so we had to put it all back together. Can you tell me, since PB Blaster, dead blow hammers, an air chisel, an axle puller, and a lot of cuss words, had no effect on anything, what to do next? I installed those Delco AC rotors, (to my dismay,Chinese I might add), two and a half years ago! I realize the axles have been there for fifteen years, Is a torch my only recourse??? Please advise your thoughts and experience, if you would be so kind... Thanks in advance! Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 KHE, Lord only knows! I try to error on the side of caution, as I lost an eye by not being careful. I read the other night, I believe on this web site, the possibility of shorting a wedding ring to the starter cable, hence, losing the finger...As it turned out, we did not disconnet the cable, because I forgot. I never got close enough to anything to get a short going.....as we were unable to get either front rotor off, nor could we dislodge the axles from bearings to get the party started. I did not have my torches with me, so we had to put it all back together. Can you tell me, since PB Blaster, dead blow hammers, an air chisel, an axle puller, and a lot of cuss words, had no effect on anything, what to do next? I installed those Delco AC rotors, (to my dismay,Chinese I might add), two and a half years ago! I realize the axles have been there for fifteen years, Is a torch my only recourse??? Please advise your thoughts and experience, if you would be so kind... Thanks in advance! Ohio Jim Jim, It took a 20 ton press to press the axle out of the hub on my STS. You may need to unbolt the strut from the knuckle and take the axle, bearing, knuckle, and rotor to an automotive machine shop that has a press. Not sure why the rotor is bonded to the hub - usually, they break free with some penetrating oil and a few whacks from a dead blow hammer. Maybe a little heat on the rotor near the bearing would help break it free? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 KHE, This weekend we plan to use a torch to get them free. I would hate to have to take the strut to a shop, because the only dayI may have is Sunday, Getting them pressed out will be difficult. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for the dialog, Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airmike Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Ohio Jim I would like to recommend trying a different penetrating oil. I have had great luck with 50 percent automatic transmission fluid, and 50 percent acetone mix. I have them mixed in an air charged spray can from Menards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airmike Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 KHE, This weekend we plan to use a torch to get them free. I would hate to have to take the strut to a shop, because the only dayI may have is Sunday, Getting them pressed out will be difficult. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for the dialog, Ohio Jim The torch did not work for me - I had the hub glowing and it still would not separate. I would recommend scribing the knuckle per the shop manual, then separate the strut from the knuckle and remove the knuckle, axle and hub. Then take it to a machine shop and have them press it out. Once you heat the bearing, it will be locked and the car can't be driven until the bearing is replaced. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Did you ever try heating it, then pouring ice cold water over the axil. I found that the quick change in temp usually breaks if free from the part. Theory is to heat the parts, then. Quickly cool part you want to shrink by cooling it. Sometimes in the noise of sizzling water, you hear a snap/click. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 KHE You are something else! Nice information! Thanks for all the help! Now that I know heat may not be the answer, I will have to reevaluate my situation. This is supposed to be a Sunday afternoon operation, so disassembling and pressing is not happening this weekend. I will keep you posted. I will buy that aerosol sprayer though, it looks like it would have many uses. THANKS AGAIN! Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Guthrie Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 I may be doing this wrong as it's the first time i have used this site, but here it goes anyways, I have a 1996 cadillac deville with a northstar v8 engine. A family member recently had it in a garage to get work done on it (power steering pump). But today the car was drove down the street to the nearest gas station, the person turned the car off, went inside paid for the gas came back out fuleed the car and when the person went to turn the car back on and nothing. No power whats so ever. Went up to gas station to try to jump tart it but that failed as well. Anybody have any tips on what the problem could be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guyslp Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 First I'll go way back to the first post in this thread to make my contribution regarding dielectric grease. This stuff is great, but it does not conduct and is meant to be applied "outside" a good connection to keep moisture and other crap out. When you're dealing with a connection like battery terminals, relay connectors, etc., where the dual goals of decreasing corrosion and increasing conduction exist you're far better off to use electrically conductive grease. I use Sanchem No-Ox-Id A-Special grease, which is readily available via eBay and Amazon, but know many people who use Gardner-Bender Ox-Gard, which is available at Lowes. Now on to KyleG's question, and a request for clarification: When you say, "nothing, no power whatsoever," do you mean that absolutely nothing - lights, instrument displays, radio, electric antenna, etc., work? If that's the case I'd check to see if the car has a fusible link that has somehow fried. If it's not, and you mean that there's zippo as far as any cranking action goes then the first thing I'd check is the starter solenoid. Brian Brian Bri the Tech Guy http://britechguy.combritechguy@gmail.com (540) 324-5032 "If it's got you screaming, I'll help you stop!!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Winterset and KHE, This thread is getting fragmented, so I'll try to keep up. I ended up going to my friend Dan's shop and replaced both front axles, bearings, rotors, and pads. It took me about 4 hours total, with some help from Dan. Neither rotor would come off, even with the rotor puller and torches! The cold water trick did not help, although I thought it surely would. Good thing I was really going after the bearings, because we ended up destroying both bearings. Axles were a breeeze, though! Guyslp, Thank you for the heads up on the No-Ox. I will be hunting that down! Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Jim, I usually apply a small amount of anti-sieze lubricant on the hub diameter where it contacts the rotor (or the hub diameter of the rotor). That way, they'll come off next time. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guyslp Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Jim, I usually apply a small amount of anti-sieze lubricant on the hub diameter where it contacts the rotor (or the hub diameter of the rotor). That way, they'll come off next time. Anti-seize is one of those things I never work without these days. You, or whoever has to work on the car next, will bless the person who assiduously used anti-seize judiciously when putting things back together. As you've noted, it's not just useful for threaded fasteners, either. Brian Brian Bri the Tech Guy http://britechguy.combritechguy@gmail.com (540) 324-5032 "If it's got you screaming, I'll help you stop!!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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