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security indicator on; etc


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The first thing to do is to read the OBD codes to figure out why the message is being displayed. To read the OBD codes, turn on the key, and, on the A/C console, press <Off> and <Pass Warmer> together for a few seconds until all the dash lights come on like you just turned on the key, then release them both. The codes will be displayed as messages, one at a time. Write them down and post them here.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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B2734 Coded Key Controller Memory Failure
B1009 EEPROM Checksum Error

First, if the B1009 is a CURRENT code, you may need to replace the module that threw the code. Most often it is set if the key is turned off while the module is running a memory test or because of a bad battery or battery cable, in which case it will be a HISTORY code. If it is a HISTORY code, you can ignore it.

The B2734 is the same error, but is specifically thrown by the theft deterrent control module.

Since the "service theft system" light does go off, this tells me that the problem is a connection, not a bad module. I would check the connector to the theft deterrent control module. It has two rows of five connectors each and is under the dash somewhere, going straight up into the module, which is clipped to something vertical. I have the component locator diagram from the FSM but I can't make heads or tails from it without the car to compare things to. Perhaps someone who has hands-on experience under the dash of a 2000+ STS, specifically with the theft deterrent control module, can be more specific on where the connector is.

I looked at the wiring diagram for a fuse that might be the culprit, but the power in the ORN wires that power the theft deterrent module also power the modules that start and run the car so that fuse must be OK since the car runs OK. This leaves a loose connector, perhaps with the power (ORN and WHT wires) or ground (BLK/WHT) terminal pushed in, or the wire broken at the terminal.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The codes are listed in order of the module. Either you will get a message like NO PCM CODES for the PCM, or you will get codes of the form PCM P0300 HISTORY for a miss, for example.

The fuel gauge consists of several pieces. There is the fuel gauge sending unit, which is in the gas tank with the fuel pump, and it is hooked to a module (the PZM, I believe). The PZM communicates the fuel level to the IPM which displays the fuel level to the fuel gauge, and if the tank is low, delivers a warning message on the DIC. A bad fuel gauge reading is usually a wiring problem between the tank and the wiring harness, but can be a bad sending unit.

If your A/C vents don't change, then actuator is stuck or the programmer module isn't working. OBD codes will give you an idea of which it is.

A common problem is a vacuum hose off somewhere. You can check that with the emergency brake. Put on the emergency brake with the car in Park or Neutral, and, with the engine running, move the shifter to Reverse or Drive and the emergency brake should release. If it does, then vacuum is getting all the way through the system under the dash.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Ok, now my remote doesn't work!! Frustration!!! I will rub the codes again, previously there were none.

For the gauge, I will have someone check the wire harness, if that doesn't help I'll check into a replacement module.

I've tested the brake, it released... So what does it mean when you said it's getting all the way thru the system?

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Oh! And my fuel gauge doesn't read correctly... So for the most part, I just need to replace it right?

I suggest to pour a bottle of techron fuel system cleaner into a full tank tank. I believe it's a known issue with sulphur buildup on the fuel sending unit. To replace this module can cost anywhere from $700 and up. You might also want to use the trip computer to fill up every 200 miles if the techron doesn't work

Edited by winterset
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If the emergency brake auto-releases, that means that vacuum is getting to the heater and A/C vent control doors because the emergency brake auto-release gets its vacuum from the A/C controller.

If your fob stopped working, you probably need to re-synchronize it. Fob synch failure throws a B3108 code. Procedure, from the 1997 FSM (your 2000 model may differ):

Press and hold the TRUNK button and within one second, press and hold the LOCK button.
Continue to hold both buttons for approximately seven seconds and then release.
If the transmitter was out of synchronization, it will now function properly.

If you don't find a problem with the fuel tank wiring harness, you will likely need a new fuel gauge sending unit. I don't know if it comes separately from the fuel pump for your car.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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If the water pump belt goes twice within 50,000+ miles, they didn't fix it the first time. Tell them to check the water pump idler and the water pump.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, they replaced the pulley bc it was tearing the belt...I did the trunk/lock reset and now the remote works fine. There is a misfire somewhere bc when I put the car in park yesterday, the doors auto unlocked!for the first time since I've had it. Then this morning it didn't do it. Still haven't tried resetting the BCM bc its been too cold. Otherwise the car is working fine and hopefully this is the beginning of a better relationship.

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