Rod Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 As embarassing as it sounds I managed to punch a hole in my pan. Does anyone have a spare? If not I'll see if I can get something to patch it with. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 I would not trust any type of "patch" on the oil pan. Have you checked with a junkyard? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Might I ask how it happened? GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted November 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Ok, here goes. The whole embarrassing story! I have a leaking oil pressure sender. I had it up on jack stands to double check. When I jacked it up to take it off the stands the jack slipped a bit and punched a hole in the pan. The really embarrassing part is I have worked on cars for most of my life and never done anything like this. Oh well!!! I'm going to blame my eyesight going bad with age ; ) I found a replacement on EBay for $60. The cost is really good considering a new pan is $337. Its the time that bugs me. Are there any other sensors or parts that you would suggest to change out while I have the engine out? Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hey things happen to the best of us, That is life. At least it wasnt running when it happened. you might want to think about replacing the motor and tranny mounts while you are there, but the question I have is does the subframe have to be dropped to remove the pan? GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted November 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 After poking around a bit it looks like I have to pull the engine from above to get around the crossover pipe. The info I have from a Chiltons is to pull the engine from above to remove the pan. If I drop the cradle I will end up dumping the refrigerant which I don't want to do (I don't have a good vacuum pump anymore). I'm going to start this friday. I'll let you know my progress. Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted November 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 After getting the engine ready to pull I found that I have the factory manual for a 1997 which I am following. Per the manual I have to drop the cradle to change the pan. I am slowly progressing. Any thoughts from anyone on this. I did have other plans for this weekend but this kind of supersedes my plans. Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 30, 2013 Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 If you pull the engine from the top, you can leave the cradle alone. Be sure to group all fasteners at each point in a ziplock bag and label the locations. Make notes on the order of the shields, etc. for each group of fasteners so you will not have to figure it out uopn reassembly. Use the GM Engine Sealant available at any GM parts couner to seal the oil pan upon reassembly. There is NO aftermarket substitute for this sealant. If the engine is leaking oil at any other point, while you have the engine out, that's the time to address it. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted December 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 After struggling for almost 3 hours I have finally given in to having to drop the cradle to get to the engine. I can't get to the bell-housing bolts to get it out. I am now building a rack to lift the body from so I can get to the engine. What a job! Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 The bell housing bolts are accessed by removing the airbox and intake piping. The main wiring harness along the top of the trans. can get in the way but can be moved out of the way to access the bell housing bolts. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 I removed the water pump housing and I then had full access to the bell-housing bolts! All thats left to pull it is a couple electrical lines and the motor mounts. I'll pull it Tuesday evening! Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Finally finished! The engine is back in and it runs fine. What a deal! I had some setbacks that delayed me 3 months. I could have done better at labeling parts. I ended up dropping the cradle which wasn't really that bad. The only problem was I let the axles hang and they ended up pulling apart. I've gone through trying to put on new boots before so I decided to replace the axles. Thank you all for your input. Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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