2002 DTS - Can't remove key, won't start, trunk and fuel door don't work

[GhostRider]

Hello,

I am new to this site and would really appreciate any help I can get.

We just purchased a 2002 Cadillac DeVille with 128,000 miles. It is in near mint condition.

Yesterday when we got into the car it would not start. It would not even turn over. Then we noticed that the keys would not come out. Also, the trunk and fuel doors did not work, neither with the interior controls nor with the key fob. In addition, the headlights do not work. Most other things work, i.e. the instrument cluster, radio, windows, etc. However, when we did try to start the car the instrument cluster disappeared.

We noticed that the battery was at 11.5 amps. We trickle charged the battery today but that did not do anything. The battery is less than 3 years old. We've also tried to check all fuses that could be the culprit, but all of them check out fine.

If anyone has any insight please let me know. I can provide more information if needed.

Thanks in advance.

[Göran W]

No message in DIC? Or any codes?

[GhostRider]

There are 2 messages. They are "Service Suspension System" and "Service Stability System." I'm waiting for my brother to bring his diagnostic code reader to see if there's additional information.

[KHE]

There are 2 messages. They are "Service Suspension System" and "Service Stability System." I'm waiting for my brother to bring his diagnostic code reader to see if there's additional information.

You don't need a code reader - simultaneously press and hole the OFF and INFO UP button on the dash and the system will go through a segment check and then you'll see ALL? displayed. Press on/off or reset (I can't remember which button) to answer yes and the codes will be displayed.

[Texas Jim]

Sounds like the battery cables are either loose or corroded.

Take the cables off and clean them real good.

[Logan]

Sounds like it's not all the way in Park. Cable maybe misadjusted. That would explain the stuck key, no trunk, no fuel door, no start. Post shows DTS so I assume it it a floor shift.

[GhostRider]

Hello again,

We got numerous codes using the procedure KHE suggested (thanks for the tip.) There were so many of them that it was hard to write them all down. I'll give a lot of them below, and will omit the history codes:

ABS U1000 Current, AMP U1000 CURRENT, DDM 3832 CURRENT, DDM U1000 CURRENT, DIM U1000 CURRENT, DIM U1000 CURRENT, IPC 1004 CURRENT, IPM B1049 CURRENT, 10C U1000 CURRENT, ETC. ETC. Many more codes involving current.

There are a few things to note. We noticed the power seat relay was very hot even though we were not using them. At one point all of the relays under the back seat were pretty warm. We tried charging the battery because it was low; however the battery kept tripping the charger, i.e shutting it down. After about a minute and a half the charger would go again. We took the battery in to AdvanceAuto to get it tested and it was bad (it was less than 3 years old.) However, when we put the new one in we got the same problems. The cables are very clean (thanks to Texas Jim for making sure we checked that.). For now I've disconnected the battery in case something is draining it.

We took apart the center console and checked the shifter cable. Everything was operating OK. There was an orange slider on the passenger side of the shifter that had fallen apart and we were able to figure out how to reassemble it. We also checked inside the engine compartment to make sure the cable was shifting the transmission properly.

After all of this we are still at square one with an exception. The key will now come out normally. I think Logan's suggestion to check out the parking cable alerted us to the orange slider being out of order. I'm not sure if that's what is now allowing the keys to come out or now.

So there's where we're at right now.

[Logan]

The orange part is a emergency way to get the car out of park if the shifter or cable breaks. There is info about that in the owners manual.

As for the U1000 code in every module...sounds like a network error.

This is from the service manual:

Modules connected to the class 2 serial data circuit monitor for serial data communications during normal vehicle operation. Operating information and commands are exchanged among the modules. When a module receives a message for a critical operating parameter, the module records the identification number of the module which sent the message. These node alive messages are used for State of Health monitoring. A critical operating parameter is one which, when not received, requires that the module use a default value for that parameter. When a module does not associate an identification number with at least one critical parameter within 5 seconds of beginning serial data communication, DTC U1000 or U1255 is set. When more than one critical parameter does not have an identification number associated with it, the DTC will only be reported once. The following modules communicate on the class 2 serial data circuit:

• Audio amplifier

• Cellular telephone module w/UV8

• Dash integration module (DIM)

• Digital radio receiver

• Driver door module (DDM)

• Driver door switch assembly (DDSA)

• Electronic brake control module (EBCM)

• Electronic suspension control module (ESC)

• Front passenger door module (FPDM)

• Inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module (SDM)

• Instrument panel cluster (IPC)

• Instrument panel integration module (IPM)

• HVAC control module - auxiliary

• Left middle door module (LMDM) w/V4U

• Left rear door module (LRDM)

• Memory seat module (MSM) w/A45

• Powertrain control module (PCM)

• Radio

• Rear integration module (RIM)

• Remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR)

• Right middle door module (RMDM) w/V4U

• Right rear door module (RRDM)

• Steering column module w/N37

• Theft deterrent control module

• Window switch - passenger front w/armored car

• Vehicle communication interface module (VCIM)

[Cadillac Jim]

I would start by getting the car all the way into park or neutral, whichever works. Then tow it to a place with a lift, or a way to get the car raised and stabilized so that you can work under it with a lot of room safely. Before raising the car, the next thing it to disconnect the battery (and put it on a trickle charger) and check *all* the fuses. Then I would check the wiring, beginning with the PCM connector and the connectors to the modules under the dash, particularly the IPM and the DIM. Look for loose or pulled-off connectors, broken or cut wires, and signs of aftermarket installation on the wiring system. Fix whatever you find, clean the battery cables, reconnect the battery, and run the codes again.

[Logan]

I would actually try *not* to wiggle the harness around. You can easily disrupt the hidden problem such as a rubbed thru harness on a bracket. Harnesses kind of require a very slow, methodical inspection.

So...could be a network wire shorted on a bracket somewhere.

Could be one of the computers on the network has gone bad pulling down the network signal.

Any kind of aftermarket remote start or alarm system is highly suspect.

"We noticed that the battery was at 11.5 amps"...I suspect he really means volts. Some clarification on that would help. There will be all kinds of issues with 11.5 volts.

Hopefully not a flood car.

You can easily unplug the 'very hot' seat relay and recheck. I expect relays to get a little warm..

[GhostRider]

Hi everyone,

The problem is SOLVED!! I ended up taking the car to a local mechanic. He owns his own shop but used to be the head tech at the Cadillac dealership here. He's a nice guy and has very reasonable rates.

The solution was simple. The system was not grounded properly. The challenge was in finding the ground wire that was not secured properly. I didn't realize there were so many places this car was grounded. At any rate the ground underneath the fuse box under the hood was to blame. It took him a little over 2 hours to check all the grounds and electronic systems with a total charge of $140.00.

Since I've usually done most of my work myself I don't know if that's a reasonable charge or not, but based on what others have told me it's a fair price.

At any rate the Caddy is back on the road! I'd like to thank everyone for chiming in and helping me out. I think if I had a little more time and fingers that weren't so arthritic I might have gotten this solved with your help.

P.S. Logan, I had to chuckle when you hoped it wasn't a flood car. That's the EXACT thing my parents said. Fortunately the car was a local buy where the owners were known. It does flood in Nebraska at times but we haven't had a "car floating" flood yet!

[Logan]

Certainly good news...did he mention what exactly was wrong with the ground? Loose, corroded? There are a bunch of them.

Flood cars..there was a guy (turbojimmy) on the other site that rebuilt a flooded DTS. Because of the network he had to replace every computer in the car from another DTS. Basically the car network operated on a different VIN number.

Flood water also gets inside the actual plastic vehicle wiring insulation. It takes a little while but then you start getting never ending electrical issues.

[GhostRider]

The mechanic mentioned that the ground was loose.

I would not want a flood car. You're right in that you would have problems forever.

Take care and thanks again.

[Cadillac Jim]

Loose ground == careless mechanic. Your new guy did you a big favor by noting that and going completely through the car to find any other loose connections.