OynxSTS Posted December 5, 2004 Report Share Posted December 5, 2004 So I think they have finally fixed my trunk leak. But now I have a U1301 error code in memory... Could this be caused by a battery disconnect? A “Class 2 short to battery” sure sounds bad! I await your advice… Should I take it back to the dealer? Bumper to Bumper is running out… Only 5,000 Miles to go!!! Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted December 5, 2004 Report Share Posted December 5, 2004 Clear the code and see if it returns. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norton1 Posted December 6, 2004 Report Share Posted December 6, 2004 Take it to the dealer. Anything I have under warranty goes to them. Even if it is my imagination!! Ha ha ha My right front suspension code that keeps coming up, I have ignored sine they replaced the tranny, and the dealer won't look at it since they claim they didn't touch it. It rides and runs just fine - someday I'll actually set down and figure out what the deal is. I suspect its something to do with a bad wire. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
an01sts Posted December 7, 2004 Report Share Posted December 7, 2004 I'd take it back. Hell, I let them try to fix the trunk leak, 4 times, but it gets to a point where you're the one with the destroyed car so wtf are you gonna' do? I don't know how the gray area goes with warrenty repairs and thier garuntee. My best guess is that because the invoice clearly states that repairs and labor are garanteed for 12 months or 12k, the repair is garunteed that long by default of the invoice, regardless to GM's policy. Afte all, dealerships have their own seperate policies of which they have to honor. You said that the water leak was fixed. What did they say it was and what did they do to repair it? If your car has/had the same leak as mine, it's not going to leak in the rain, making you assume as I assumed that it was fixed. Instead, it's going to leak WHILE YOUR DRIVING IN THE RAIN, and it might take more than heavy sprinkle to make it leak. I think that you should high-pressure hose the dog crap out of the wheelwells and make sure that it isn't the wheelwells because you don't want to get into the pissing contests after the warrenty expires. Sure, it's prexisting, and the general warrenty of the invoice can help, buy why go down that road if you can avoid it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDWRIOR Posted December 8, 2004 Report Share Posted December 8, 2004 OynxSTS, What module is setting the U1301 diagnostic trouble code (DTC)? As I have recommended to others before, on this message board and on the old board, any DTC that is preceded by the letter 'U' can generally be ignored UNLESS other symtpoms of a problem exist. All of these 'U' codes relate to the vehicle's serial data communication system. For clarification, I believe that it would be helpful for all of the vehicle owners on this site to think of these 'U' codes as a "built-in" tool for the GM software engineers whose resposnibility it is to ensure that all of the networked electronic modules communicate with each other properly. I doubt that the codes are of much use to dealer service technicians, much less "DIY" owners, unless there is a true "customer noticeable" problem (like a loss of some function, flickering displays, etc.). I assume that you are not actually experiencing any noticeable problems like that, since you did not mention anything besides the DTC. Knowing which module is setting the DTC may help identify a real problem that you just have not noticed yet, but I suspect that you really have no reasons for concern. So, without having more information I think that returning to the dealer would be a waste of your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted December 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2004 Hell, I let them try to fix the trunk leak, 4 times, but it gets to a point where you're the one with the destroyed car so wtf are you gonna' do? You said that the water leak was fixed. What did they say it was and what did they do to repair it? If your car has/had the same leak as mine, it's not going to leak in the rain, making you assume as I assumed that it was fixed. Instead, it's going to leak WHILE YOUR DRIVING IN THE RAIN, I think that you should high-pressure hose the dog crap out of the wheelwells and make sure that it isn't the wheelwells because you don't want to get into the pissing contests after the warrenty expires. My trunk AKA “the sieve” had no fewer than 4 leaks... If yours was anything like mine no wonder it took you dealer 4+ tries... On my car it looks like rather than smear the body seam filler in to the gap with their finger... The factory workers (robots??) left the goo piled up in little ringlets that look a lot like a big fat MIG weld… In any event it leaked at the top on the driver side at the body seam… The dealer claimed the roof drains also were leaking, the really bad leak was at the back where quarter panel wraps around the tail lights (That one took two tries) and it also leaked through the floor two bad leaks there… During the first dealer visit I asked him not to fix those as I thought they might provide for drainage… Then after reading your posts I though… No, lets seal this puppy up… I get lots of opportunities to test for leaks in the Pacific Northwest… Right now the trunk is dry… Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted December 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2004 OynxSTS, What module is setting the U1301 diagnostic trouble code (DTC)? As I have recommended to others before, on this message board and on the old board, any DTC that is preceded by the letter 'U' can generally be ignored UNLESS other symtpoms of a problem exist. All of these 'U' codes relate to the vehicle's serial data communication system. (like a loss of some function, flickering displays, etc.). I assume that you are not actually experiencing any noticeable problems like that, since you did not mention anything besides the DTC. Thanks RdWr, The U Codes were from the DDM (the one about the Class 2 Short to Bat) and the IRC. As you note the car is running perfectly. Smooth and Strong! Absolutely no issues... Except the on/off button by the info reset and "info up/down" is slow to light… some times.. very intermittent... like it would never happen at the dealer... under warrantee Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDWRIOR Posted December 14, 2004 Report Share Posted December 14, 2004 OynxSTS, The intermittent backlighting of the ON/OFF switch that you described would have absolutely nothing to do with the 'U' DTCs discussed earlier. So, as I stated before, I think that you have nothing to be concerned about by these codes, and that you can just ignore them. The GM service manual shows just one bulb for all three of the DIC buttons located to the right of the instrument cluster, so it is difficult to understand why just one of the three buttons is slow to light. The best explanation that I can think of is a broken or defective "light pipe" leading from the bulb to the button. Replacing the switch assembly with a new one should take care of this problem. FYI - DDM = Driver Door Module IRC = Integrated Radio Controller (i.e., the radio "head unit") Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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