BIGBrandon2785 Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 I have a 98 STS ive been haveing some overheating isues with.Well today I pulled some codes from the driver control panel.Their was quite a few and some said "history" and some said "current".....I was kinda unsure about that so I just wrote down the codes. ABS C1276 C1286 C1287 U1255 U1056 AMP U1300 U1064 U1128 IPC B1652 U1300 U1301 B1983 IPM B1340 B1344 U1255 B1343 B1652 PCM P0300 P0603 P1520 SDM B1163 U1096 Any help is much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 Similar to many of the 1999 DTC codes here: http://www.caddyinfo.com/dtc_1999.htm Examples: DTC B1340 Air Mix Door One Movement Fault DTC B1344 HTR/DEF/AC Door Movement Fault DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected DTC P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset DTC P1520 Transmission Range Switch Circuit DTC B1163 Loss of Serial Data-No Lamp Response DTC U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 That many codes doesn't reflect a real car. It looks like you had the car power-washed underneath or the battery is low. First, there is a huge difference between CURRENT codes, which reflect something wrong that the car is detecting RIGHT NOW, and a HISTORY code which can be months old and reflect nothing more than a transient problem that you can ignore. I would write down which are CURRENT and post them. Then, I would reset all the codes and see which ones come back. You can get a good idea about the condition of your battery by using the INFO button to watch the battery voltage. If it drops below 10.0 Volts when you start the car, or if it is consistently higher than 14.5 Volts when you are driving, the battery is low or bad. If so, you can have it checked at a Pep Boys or your local mechanic. If you need a new battery, be sure and get the long-life 1,000 CCA battery. Most people will look up the cheapest battery in the size category for your car and sell you that, and it will last maybe six months, maybe less. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBrandon2785 Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 That many codes doesn't reflect a real car. It looks like you had the car power-washed underneath or the battery is low. First, there is a huge difference between CURRENT codes, which reflect something wrong that the car is detecting RIGHT NOW, and a HISTORY code which can be months old and reflect nothing more than a transient problem that you can ignore. I would write down which are CURRENT and post them. Then, I would reset all the codes and see which ones come back. You can get a good idea about the condition of your battery by using the INFO button to watch the battery voltage. If it drops below 10.0 Volts when you start the car, or if it is consistently higher than 14.5 Volts when you are driving, the battery is low or bad. If so, you can have it checked at a Pep Boys or your local mechanic. If you need a new battery, be sure and get the long-life 1,000 CCA battery. Most people will look up the cheapest battery in the size category for your car and sell you that, and it will last maybe six months, maybe less. That many codes doesn't reflect a real car. It looks like you had the car power-washed underneath or the battery is low. First, there is a huge difference between CURRENT codes, which reflect something wrong that the car is detecting RIGHT NOW, and a HISTORY code which can be months old and reflect nothing more than a transient problem that you can ignore. I would write down which are CURRENT and post them. Then, I would reset all the codes and see which ones come back. You can get a good idea about the condition of your battery by using the INFO button to watch the battery voltage. If it drops below 10.0 Volts when you start the car, or if it is consistently higher than 14.5 Volts when you are driving, the battery is low or bad. If so, you can have it checked at a Pep Boys or your local mechanic. If you need a new battery, be sure and get the long-life 1,000 CCA battery. Most people will look up the cheapest battery in the size category for your car and sell you that, and it will last maybe six months, maybe less. I guess I reset some of the codes because a lot of them are gone now.I did find these 2 current codes IPM B1340 and IPM B1343.Ill check the battery and reset the rest of the codes.Ill post what I find..............Thanks for the help,im clueless with newer cars,lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 B1340 Air Mix Door One Movement Fault B1343 Air Inlet Door Movement Fault These are faults in the temperature control vanes in the A/C system. They are controlled by vacuum servers that are operated by the A/C controller module. Usually these type of codes mean that you just have a hose off somewhere or a vacuum leak. If the rest don't come back, then they are all what I call "car wash codes." -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 B1340 Air Mix Door One Movement Fault B1343 Air Inlet Door Movement Fault These are faults in the temperature control vanes in the A/C system. They are controlled by vacuum servers that are operated by the A/C controller module. Usually these type of codes mean that you just have a hose off somewhere or a vacuum leak. If the rest don't come back, then they are all what I call "car wash codes." The actuators are electric motor assemblies - the 1340 definitely. The 1343 may be vacuum. If the actual position of the actuator does not match the commanded position, the code is set. Sometimes, the actuators get off calibration and can be fixed by running the temp to 90 degrees, waiting a few minutes, then setting it to 60 degrees, waiting a few minutes and repeating the process. If the actuators are making a creaking noise, it is possible one or more of the internal gears is stripped or broken and replacement of the actorator assembly is required to fix the problem. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBrandon2785 Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 B1340 Air Mix Door One Movement Fault B1343 Air Inlet Door Movement Fault These are faults in the temperature control vanes in the A/C system. They are controlled by vacuum servers that are operated by the A/C controller module. Usually these type of codes mean that you just have a hose off somewhere or a vacuum leak. If the rest don't come back, then they are all what I call "car wash codes." The actuators are electric motor assemblies - the 1340 definitely. The 1343 may be vacuum. If the actual position of the actuator does not match the commanded position, the code is set. Sometimes, the actuators get off calibration and can be fixed by running the temp to 90 degrees, waiting a few minutes, then setting it to 60 degrees, waiting a few minutes and repeating the process. If the actuators are making a creaking noise, it is possible one or more of the internal gears is stripped or broken and replacement of the actorator assembly is required to fix the problem. Ok cool,so the actuators should explain why I get heat out of the driver side when the AC is on??How hard/expensive of a fix is a actuator?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 B1340 Air Mix Door One Movement Fault B1343 Air Inlet Door Movement Fault These are faults in the temperature control vanes in the A/C system. They are controlled by vacuum servers that are operated by the A/C controller module. Usually these type of codes mean that you just have a hose off somewhere or a vacuum leak. If the rest don't come back, then they are all what I call "car wash codes." The actuators are electric motor assemblies - the 1340 definitely. The 1343 may be vacuum. If the actual position of the actuator does not match the commanded position, the code is set. Sometimes, the actuators get off calibration and can be fixed by running the temp to 90 degrees, waiting a few minutes, then setting it to 60 degrees, waiting a few minutes and repeating the process. If the actuators are making a creaking noise, it is possible one or more of the internal gears is stripped or broken and replacement of the actorator assembly is required to fix the problem. Ok cool,so the actuators should explain why I get heat out of the driver side when the AC is on??How hard/expensive of a fix is a actuator?? Maybe - or it could be a low refrigerant condition. With the A/C on, feel the A/C pipes leading into the firewall. They should be the same temperature. If they are, the issue is most likely the actuator. If one of the A/C lines is warmer than the other one, it is a low refrigerant condition. You need to feel them very close to the point where they enter the firewall. Don't make the mistake and test the temperature on the condenser side of the orifice tube. The actuators are not difficult to change but they must be calibrated once replaced - setting the position of the rod. That information is in the service manuals. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBrandon2785 Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 B1340 Air Mix Door One Movement Fault B1343 Air Inlet Door Movement Fault These are faults in the temperature control vanes in the A/C system. They are controlled by vacuum servers that are operated by the A/C controller module. Usually these type of codes mean that you just have a hose off somewhere or a vacuum leak. If the rest don't come back, then they are all what I call "car wash codes." The actuators are electric motor assemblies - the 1340 definitely. The 1343 may be vacuum. If the actual position of the actuator does not match the commanded position, the code is set. Sometimes, the actuators get off calibration and can be fixed by running the temp to 90 degrees, waiting a few minutes, then setting it to 60 degrees, waiting a few minutes and repeating the process. If the actuators are making a creaking noise, it is possible one or more of the internal gears is stripped or broken and replacement of the actorator assembly is required to fix the problem. Ok cool,so the actuators should explain why I get heat out of the driver side when the AC is on??How hard/expensive of a fix is a actuator?? Maybe - or it could be a low refrigerant condition. With the A/C on, feel the A/C pipes leading into the firewall. They should be the same temperature. If they are, the issue is most likely the actuator. If one of the A/C lines is warmer than the other one, it is a low refrigerant condition. You need to feel them very close to the point where they enter the firewall. Don't make the mistake and test the temperature on the condenser side of the orifice tube. The actuators are not difficult to change but they must be calibrated once replaced - setting the position of the rod. That information is in the service manuals. Ill give it a try,but it blows ice cold out of the passenger side and heat out of the driver side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 I think the hvac settings are defrost, defrost/ feet, vent, vent/feet. Approx. so u say it is set to vent now but driver side is hot and pass is cold? That's a temp question, not really a "where is air blowing" question. U make it sound like air blowing is ok but heat is uneven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBrandon2785 Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 I think the hvac settings are defrost, defrost/ feet, vent, vent/feet. Approx. so u say it is set to vent now but driver side is hot and pass is cold? That's a temp question, not really a "where is air blowing" question. U make it sound like air blowing is ok but heat is uneven Yes,both driver side and passenger side are set to A/C vent and on 60 degrees.The passenger side blows hard and ice cold,but the driver side blows hard but hot air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBrandon2785 Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 My car has pulled up a couple more codes.So now the current codes are reading IPM B1340 B1343 ABS C1287 PCM P0300 Any help is appreciated thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 DTC B1340 Air Mix Door One Movement Fault DTC B1343 Air Inlet Door Movement Fault DTC C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction DTC P0300 Engine Misfire Detected Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 KHE could be correct. A classic failure mode description for low freon is the 'cold passenger side, hot drivers side' complaint from the AC vents. On top of that....if you install AC system gauges. The readings will show perfectly normal service manual AC pressure readings...but in reality...the system is low on freon. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 The "feel" test of the evaporator pipes will quickly rule out low refrigerant if they are both cold. Or disconnecting the actuator linkage on the suspect actuator and manually moving it to the full cold position. The original poster has not posted back the findings of the evaporator pipe temperature. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBrandon2785 Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 The "feel" test of the evaporator pipes will quickly rule out low refrigerant if they are both cold. Or disconnecting the actuator linkage on the suspect actuator and manually moving it to the full cold position. The original poster has not posted back the findings of the evaporator pipe temperature. Sorry about that,Im gonna try to give it a check Sunday or Monday.......I got kinda busy the last few days.I do really appreciate the help though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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