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on board digenostic codes ( i cant spell)


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ever had those cars were you just want to cry cause you know nothing about it but love it .... welcome to me fleetwood.... I have a 1993 caddy Fleetwood brougham which atarted showing codes 15 23 and 44 today in the 00 setting... what do they mean.. I cant find a strait answer anywhere

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Straight answers are us! I'm not an OBD I person so I don't know what the "00 setting" means but here is what I have. There are GM manufacturer codes as well as OBD I codes on your car, and I don't have any OBD I codes ending in 023 or 044. Here is what I do have:

GM Manufacturer codes:

15 Driver Air Bag Deploy. Loop Short to V

15 RH Air Outlet Sensor Open Circuit

15 Vehicle Speed Signal Voltage Low

23 Floor Air Mix Door Motor Voltage High

23 Pass. Air Bag Deployment Loop Short to GND

23 Power Steering Control Module Malfunction

23/33 RAP Feed Shorted to Ground or Battery (Escalade)

44 Warning Lamp Circuit Open or Short to GND

44 Last Message Received with Encryption Error (Escalade)

OBD I codes:

R015 Passenger Initiator Circuit Resistance High

A015 Sun Load Sensor Circuit

S015 Right Front Damper Solenoid Valve Short to B+

There is some ambiguity there but you can figure out which code applies by looking at the dash warning lights, any driver information center (DIC) messages, and the way the car behaves too. The manufacturer code 15 may be an air bag code, in which case your air bag warning light will be on. and you may get a "SERVICE AIR BAGS" message on the DIC when you turn on the key. If the A/C isn't working OK on the right side, then the code 15 means that there is a short in the position sensor on the temperature for the passenger side. If the speedometer reading is zero or erratic, the vehicle speed sensor (or VSS) has a wiring problem or is going bad. The VSS is on top of the half-axle on the passenger side. You can see it by turning the steering wheel all the way to the right and peering behind the right wheel with a flashlight. I would reach in there and make sure that the connector was tight (and dry) and see if that fixed it.

The manufacturer code 23 is interpreted the same way. If the air bag light is on, there is wiring problem to one of the air bags. If the retained accessory power (RAP), which supplies the radio and interior lights, is not there (probably code 23) 5or never turns off (probably code 33, which you don't have), that would mean that there is a wiring problem, one of the two RAP relays is stuck, or there is a blown fuse. If the air bag light is on, code 23 may be telling you that there is a short in the deployment loop. Or, if the A/C floor temperature is not right, there is a wiring problem with the temperature control door for the floor vent.

The manufacturer code 44 can mean that there is a dash warning light out (watch and see if one of them doesn't come on when you turn on the key, or begin the process of reading the OBD codes), or, on an Escalde, a network error.

The OBD code S015 will cause the ABS light to come on.

If that doesn't do it for you, let us know what other issues you have with the car. In particular let us know if any dash warning lights are on, if the speedometer seems OK, and what any messages are that you see on the DIC.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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when I start it cold it cracks then dies... I crank again it spits and spudders but then picks up and runs normally. it gets a strong ehasut smell not eggs just rich very rich. and some times it ideas hard.. ( I have ordered my service maneul cause I love my caddy... or at least the one I am working on... my 4 year old says its his.)

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Interestingly enough, the hard start, rich at start, and OK after running sounds like a fuel pressure regulator (FPR) leak, which won't throw a code. The FPR is on the intake manifold under the beauty cover, toward the firewall on the driver's side. It has a little rubber vacuum hose on it that goes to the the throttle body. Pull that off ans see if you smell gas. If you do, you need a new FPR. They aren't too expensive and are held on with a snap ring, so you can change it yourself. Ask for details on doing this before you start the work.

This leaves the codes. Do you have any warning lights on the dashboard or any messages on the DIC? Does the A/C work OK on all the vents?

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The '93 Fleetwood has the Chevrolet 350 TBI engine (L05) with rear wheel drive. There is not an information center (DIC) so none of the Northstar information is valid for that car.

Here is the diagnostic information for the '93 Fleetwood:

Simultaneously press and hold the OFF and WARMER side of the temp rocker. After the segment check, -00 will be displayed. That is the "pointer". Pressing OUTSIDE TEMP will toggle between the pointer and the trouble code. Use the FAN UP/DN to increment/decrement the pointer.

Pointers -00 thru -04 contain the trouble codes. Current codes are two digits and history codes have three digits with a "1" as the first digit. The second and third digits are the trouble code. For example 32 would be a current code and 132 would be the same code although a history code.

Pointer # Parameter Display Range Default value

-00 ECM Trouble Codes

-01 CCM Trouble codes

-02 ECC Trouble codes

-03 SIR (Airbag) trouble Codes

-04 ABS/TCS Trouble Codes

-05 Program number 0-255

-06 Commanded blower motor spd 0-128

-12 Vehicle speed in MPH

-16 Sun load sensor assy 200+ = Dark 240

150- = light

-17 Current temp. valve position 0-255

-19 Temp valve pos. (full hot) 180-250 180

-20 Temp valve pos. (full cold) 5-60 60

-21 Coolant temperature degrees C 90

-22 Commanded temp valve pos. 0-255

-24 Air delivery mode 0-7

-25 Inside air temp sens Value increases as temp. decreases

-28 Outside air temp asm Value increases as temp. decreases

Your codes from pointer 00 are as follows:

15: Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit (low temperature indicated)

23: Intake air temperature sensor circuit (low temperature indicated)

44: Oxygen sensor (low O2S signal detected)

The fact that the codes are not preceeded by a "1" indicates they are "current". For example, if the code 15 was a history code, 115 would be stored in diagnostics.

Code 15:

Check to see if the engine coolant sensor is plugged in. It is located on the intake manifold. If it is plugged in, disconnect it and measure the resistance. The sensor will read 100700 ohms if the sensor is detecting minus 40 *F and 177 ohms at 212 *F. at The easiest thing to do is check it after the car sits overnight and the coolant temperature's resistance should be what the ambient air temp. is. No idea what the ambient is in Mississippi these days but my guess is around 70 degrees so the sensor should measure around 3500 ohms.

Code 23:

The intake sensor is mounted in the air cleaner housing if I recall correctly. The resistance values are identical to the engine coolant temperature sensor so the easiest thing to do is unplug it and compare the resistance to that of the coolant temperature sensor after the car sits overnight. They should be very close to each other. Caution that since both sensors are indicating low temperature, they both could be bad and have nearly the same resistance values.

Code 44:

The oxygen sensor is mounted in one of the exhaust manifolds - there is only one sensor. Check to see that the lead is not touching the exhaust manifold. The low signal code indicates a lean condition. Check the fuel pressure - there is a schrader fitting on the fuel rail. The fuel pressure should be 9-13 psi with the engine running. Check for exhaust leaks near the exhaust manifolds - the engine can pull outside air into the exhaust and past the sensor. Check for vacuum leaks can also set the lean condition. If nothing reveals the problem, the oxygen sensor is probably bad. It is much easier to remove if the engine is warmed up.

The above codes explain exactly why your car is running the way it is. The ECM believes the mixture is lean and it is also being told the ambient air is cold as is the coolant temperature so the ECM is adding fuel to richen the mixture. That is why the exhaust is rich and it idles rough.

Keep us posted on your findings.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Could there not also be a throttle body cleansing in order(realizing it's not a Northstar)

TBI engines do not build up the gunk in the tbrottle body area like a port fuel injection car since there is a constant spray of fuel from the injectors into the intake manifold which will prevent any deposits from forming on the throtle plates.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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ok guys I haven't had a chance to check anything, the life of a cook you know. My wife did call and ask part prices at auto . They are all under 20 dollars so I may just replace them anyways to have it done. Heck I only have $2800.00 invested in this car and that includes buying it lol .

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Better to properly troubleshoot the problem vs. throw parts at it - no matter how inexpensive the parts may be.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Ditto

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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well I wouldn't call it throwing parts at the car has set up for a few months at a time once the orginal owner went blind.. im the second owner but I do get your point and will work the procces

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Btw might be a bad thing to ask but how do I check for vacuum leaks?

I spray carburetor cleaner at suspected areas and listen for the engine to rev up. That would indicate a leak.

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To confirm what Mike stated above. Recently I watched a friend locate a vacuum leak in a 4 cylinder 2004 Honda engine. It had lean codes, A/F metering problems. He sprayed carb clearer under and around the intake seals and finally found a partially cracked PCV valve sucking air. We could hear it but could not see the vacuum leak. The PCV was hidden under the intake manifold (shockingly unreachable without removing the intake). I was watching the A/F ratio data on a Snap On Modis meter and when he hit the right spot the A/F ratio reacted wildly from +13 to -17. Leave the location and the AF ratio slowly climbed up. We actually came close to stalling the engine a few times and knew we found the leak a big leak. I actually was concerned that we might hydrolock the engine it from it injesting liquid.

I also check each vacuum connector for cracks, check pipes connected to the valve covers, they can dislodge allowing unmetered air into the PCV system. Listen to the brake booster. As mentioned above listening closely is a good method.

Good mechanics diagnose the problem, lousy mechanics parts replace and charge the customer for unnecessary parts. Use an OHM meter to check the Codes 15 and 23, very easy, Kevin reported the proper resistence figures above. If both sensors are not in range, replace them both. Check the resistance with the connector disconnected.

If you can get a fuel pressure gage, a check of the fuel pressure 1) with the key on engine off, 2) with the engine idling and 3) revving the engine would be helpful to know, low fuel pressure is on the other side of the coin of a vacuum leak. Too much air is a vacuum leak that causes a LEAN mixture and on the other side of the coin is TOO LITTLE fuel, creating a lean condition. So check the fuel pressure. I recently worked on a 95 Eldorado OBD1 and it had fuel pressure of 28 to 32 and it impacted engine performance in a big way when the correct pressure is 40 to 45. So check the fuel pressure.

These cars tell you what is wrong with them, you just need to interpret the data and do testing. Kevin is our Fleetwood go to guy, follow his advice.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Well I am replacing hoses anyway some of them just look old and dry so I thought best to replace them.please remember I never had the dad son car time most get. But this is give me and my 4 year old and helper car time we are learning together and I thank you all for you help. Do I did check for leaks found some on most the vacum hoses it effected it greatly. I also bought a new PVC valve and breather they haven't been changed in 10 years ( I have owners mantince papers) I am also going to drain my anti freeze and refill it.

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Well I am replacing hoses anyway some of them just look old and dry so I thought best to replace them.please remember I never had the dad son car time most get. But this is give me and my 4 year old and helper car time we are learning together and I thank you all for you help. Do I did check for leaks found some on most the vacum hoses it effected it greatly. I also bought a new PVC valve and breather they haven't been changed in 10 years ( I have owners mantince papers) I am also going to drain my anti freeze and refill it.

Sounds like a lot of good preventive maintenence to me... :)

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One thing I can't find this darned pcv valve to replace it. Ether I'm not looking hard enough or it's not there..... Lol bye I am going to take my before complete restore pics tomorow

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Well, time to clear out all the HISTORY codes and see if anything comes back. Congratulations.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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How do I go about cleaning them. Do I just unhook the battery

Disconnecting the negative battery cable is the only way to clear the codes on the Fleetwoods with the exception of any codes that are electronic climate control related.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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