Jason15036 Posted November 30, 2004 Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 My car had been running great, no problems what so ever except a power steering pressure switch. One day I went to pass a car and I puched it and it started to go and then it started poping really bad and missing terraibly. It seemed to do this only at higher rpms though. IT would also miss and surge and idling or after letting off the gas. The problem perisisted and I checked the codes and I got a code p041 or p040, which ever one is the camshaft sensor code. I replaced it with the same symptoms still happening after replacement. About two days later I recieved code p083 which is something to do with the crankshaft sensor or 24x signal to high. I replaced the sensor and still the same symptoms. The same problem has kept up now and is becoming worse. I get and intermediate code for the camshaft sensor and then it goes away and sometimes I even get a code for the crankshaft senor sometimes but always is running bad. IT has gotten worse now where the popping and missing occurs at lower rpms and now it runs bad and lower rpms, it feels like it is running on 5 or 6 cylinders and now the popping occures at about 3500 and you have to let off to get the popping and missing to quit so that you can accelerate. Also to add to the problems the tachometer has not been working but about two weeks ago when it quit occasionaly it would jump around and work for a second. Also I am getting t073 with traction disable message on startup. When i turn the key on it says monitoring systems but then it doesnt say monitoring systems ok it flashes back to traction disabled. Please help, Im not what is wrong but any help would be appreciated. Also I drove to go eat and it had been running bad and barley going and i shut the car off and went to eat. Came back out to start it and click click click the battery was dead. Jumped it and started up and runngin bad. I took the jumper cables off and i looked at the volts gage and it kept a constant drop all the way down to 10.0. When i started driving it woud rise but at ide would lower. When I got home I started the car and dissconented the battery and the car stayed running, but the volt gage dropped to 9.8 but the car stayed running but not good. Help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted November 30, 2004 Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 Maybe it is time to replace your battery or at least check your connections for corrosion. When has your spark plugs and wires been checked or changed? Check plugs to see if the platinum nipple is still there. Low voltage can cause all kinds of problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldgamer Posted November 30, 2004 Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 Something wrong with your alternator. If your battery is bad the voltage should raise anyway after start and after disconnection of a battery can raise even more. Don't disconnect the battery ever again on running engine, you can destroy expensive electronic components. Check the belt too just in case, but I bet something wrong with alternator, cause low voltage with no headlights on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason15036 Posted December 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 I am having more symptoms now, I think maybe a computer or something going bad, beacause now I have the rough running and now the tranny is jerking in and out of gears. When I am driving it and it starts I shut the car off and coast and it works fine for about another five minutes. I need some advice, the car is starting to drive me crazy. 70000 miles on trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason15036 Posted December 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 If it was a computer going bad where is the computer located on the car and much does the price range from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Grek Posted December 1, 2004 Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 It's probably a dead cell in battery causing all this grief, I also had wierd problems when my battery after 8 years (DELCO) went. How old is battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason15036 Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 I was just wondering if anyone had any info on my issue, becuase I need to get this car fixed. thanks again, Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 If it was a computer going bad where is the computer located on the car and much does the price range from. Remove the glove box and you'll see the PCM (computer). Logan suggested tapping it while driving and watch consequences. If there is correlation - PCM needs to be replaced. Well... this relates to my car but yours may be the same. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason15036 Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Thanks for your reply. What computer is under the passenger side seating area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Thanks for your reply. What computer is under the passenger side seating area. Unfortunately, I do not know. Someone with your year sts might help. Don't you have a repair manual? The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason15036 Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 no I do not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Thanks for your reply. What computer is under the passenger side seating area. I think that is the ABS computer or controller (not sure of the exact name). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldgamer Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Again, be sure that alternator is ok, cause low voltage within engine running really shows that. If I was you, at first I'll check alternator and then run to something else. I'll post the link to thread where you can find info how to change the PCM. But really, check the alternator first. And check the codes too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldgamer Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 You can find here how to change PCM, but again, check the alternator and codes first. PCM placed under the glove box (you gotta unscrew 3 screws to pull out the plastic cover under the glove box). It is the silver box with 3 cables connected to it. It's fixed with a bracket on a right side. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showt...36&page=2&pp=20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezsemanate Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 My car had been running great, no problems what so ever except a power steering pressure switch. One day I went to pass a car and I puched it and it started to go and then it started poping really bad and missing terraibly. It seemed to do this only at higher rpms though. IT would also miss and surge and idling or after letting off the gas. The problem perisisted and I checked the codes and I got a code p041 or p040, which ever one is the camshaft sensor code. I replaced it with the same symptoms still happening after replacement. About two days later I recieved code p083 which is something to do with the crankshaft sensor or 24x signal to high. I replaced the sensor and still the same symptoms. The same problem has kept up now and is becoming worse. I get and intermediate code for the camshaft sensor and then it goes away and sometimes I even get a code for the crankshaft senor sometimes but always is running bad. IT has gotten worse now where the popping and missing occurs at lower rpms and now it runs bad and lower rpms, it feels like it is running on 5 or 6 cylinders and now the popping occures at about 3500 and you have to let off to get the popping and missing to quit so that you can accelerate. Also to add to the problems the tachometer has not been working but about two weeks ago when it quit occasionaly it would jump around and work for a second. Also I am getting t073 with traction disable message on startup. When i turn the key on it says monitoring systems but then it doesnt say monitoring systems ok it flashes back to traction disabled. Please help, Im not what is wrong but any help would be appreciated. Also I drove to go eat and it had been running bad and barley going and i shut the car off and went to eat. Came back out to start it and click click click the battery was dead. Jumped it and started up and runngin bad. I took the jumper cables off and i looked at the volts gage and it kept a constant drop all the way down to 10.0. When i started driving it woud rise but at ide would lower. When I got home I started the car and dissconented the battery and the car stayed running, but the volt gage dropped to 9.8 but the car stayed running but not good. Help. TO73 is an electrical connection problem Im pretty sure. I dealing with the ABS right now and I cleaned the plug/connector going to the ABS unit under your air box. I had moisture and gunk in mine, blow it out with compressed air and deoxit. It sloved my TO73, good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreezn Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 Something wrong with your alternator. If your battery is bad the voltage should raise anyway after start and after disconnection of a battery can raise even more. Don't disconnect the battery ever again on running engine, you can destroy expensive electronic components. Check the belt too just in case, but I bet something wrong with alternator, cause low voltage with no headlights on. Jason, Are you listening Jason? The computers and the ignition both need strong voltage to fire/run the engine properly. You should see 13. 5 VDC, or better on the voltage, even at idle. Oldgamer says the alternator is bad. If you check the cables on the battery first, and they are clean and tight, I go with his diagnosis. Your battery is under the back seat, isn't it? Side terminal batteries are notorious for leaking acid and corroding the cable connections. Let the forum know what you find, Jim in Phoenix Jim in Phoenix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truant Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 A lesson in voltage regulators. The alternator of your car is designed to run with the battery connected. Without a battery the voltage will swing wildly (and too fast for your gauge to record) from probably 50 or 100volts all the way down to zero, with (in your case) an average of 9.8 like you found. It is likely that the high voltage spikes have done some damage to your onboard computers. However, if they run properly at ANY time, it is possible that you're ok. However, you might notice that as your computer warms up, you start to get problems, or that problems go away as the computer warms up. As for the miss-firing you could have the transistor switch that fires off your spark plug coils checked to see if it is breaking down. Battery drops to 10V after disconnect of jumpstart - I would think either your voltage regulator is set improperly (I think these new cars use the computer to control the voltage set-point) or your battery has an internal problem, or your alternator is bad. One test you can do is to go to a place that does free battery testing, shut the car off, have them disconnect the battery and measure the voltage on the battery. They can load-test the battery as well. They can also verrify the voltage on your gauge is correct when the battery is connected and the engine running (they should probably do this first). If the battery is fully charged, you should see about 13v or better on the battery when it is disconnected from the car. If it is fully charged it should pass the load test. If you see a battery at 12V or lower (usually in ~2V increments), this indicates a shorted cell condidtion in the battery, or a good battery that is undercharged. Note, if the terminal voltage on your battery is less than 12.5V, and they do a load-test, it will likely fail because it isn't charged up in the first place. If when the engine is running (idle) and the battery is connected and you don't see 13.3V or better you should check several things: 1. is the battery HOT or "bloated" (deformed from square)? Yes = bad battery. 2. Is the ground strap connection to the engine clean and tightly connected? - remove and clean with a knife until all surfaces of engine mount point and wire are shiny. Yes - keep going. 3. Are the connections AT the alternator clean? - yes - consider replacing the alternator. A car's alternator is capable of probably about 100Amps output (this is a LOT of current) to charge your battery and run accessories such as lights, so the battery voltage shouldn't take long to get to where the alternator and voltage regulator want it to go. When your battery voltage drops to less than 10volts, you will find that your engine and some components do not work well. This is normal for a low battery condition. Your car should enter a "limp home mode" to run only the necessities of the engine below some voltage. It should also alarm (red light on dash) that you're not charging if the battery voltage stays below 12V for some amount of time. Note that the "not charging" alarm doesn't mean the alternator is bad, it means the battery voltage is low for various possible reasons (bad battery, corroded connections etc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.