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rockfangd

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Rock,

That is a forged rod. I am very concerned that the weld may fail so.... At your earliest conveineice, PLEASE eplace the assembly.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I plan on it. Although the ride is excellent I planned on finding good arms by spring. Now this car wont be driven much for the winter unless my truck breaks down. Seville is out of the question. once that one gets put away it doesnt come out

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I wasn't going to say anything because clearly it doesn't need to be said to rockfangd, but, for the others out there that read this thread in the future, if you have a weld repair on a forged suspension link and must drive it for any length of time, keep the wheels out of potholes, drive over speed bumps and driveway ramps *very* slowly, and keep the speed down as much as possible, particularly after the repair has been in place for awhile. An occasional look with a cleaning rag, a mirror, and a flashlight isn't a bad idea, either.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I wasn't going to say anything because clearly it doesn't need to be said to rockfangd, but, for the others out there that read this thread in the future, if you have a weld repair on a forged suspension link and must drive it for any length of time, keep the wheels out of potholes, drive over speed bumps and driveway ramps *very* slowly, and keep the speed down as much as possible, particularly after the repair has been in place for awhile. An occasional look with a cleaning rag, a mirror, and a flashlight isn't a bad idea, either.

that is absolutely correct. The only reason I did what I did was because I needed to do something temporarily. but it is definately not a permanent fix

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Thank you for your understanding, rockfangd.

As long as I'm speaking to browsers, please note that the rear wishbones are forged (steel for 1992-1996, aluminum for 1997-up). If these are damaged by accidents or by lifts or jacks, good-as-new replacements can be obtained through recycling yards because wear-based damage is rare in the rear suspension wishbones.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 7 years later...
On 12/19/2012 at 7:25 AM, BodybyFisher said:

That is something that I did on my 96 Deville that makes a huge difference in directional stability getting rid of the sloppy floating feeling. I used POLY bushings which were very tight. Glad you improved your handling.

By the way that is a creative repair, I dont think I would have considered doing that. How do you feel about the strength of the repair? Did you use an 8 hardness bolt?

This is what im looking at doing....i tried sending you a message but it says you dont recieve them. Sorry to revive an old thread

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23 hours ago, Chris Pranis said:

This is what im looking at doing....i tried sending you a message but it says you dont recieve them. Sorry to revive an old thread

I do get messages not sure what you did.   What is your question.  What is your year and model

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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