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95 fleetwood intermittent problem


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I have a 95 Cadillac Fleetwood with 125,000 miles that intermittently fails to start. The engine spins, but does not start, but if I wait 10 to 20 minutes and try again it will start. It has not failed to start after waiting, so mechanic can never determine problem, since he can't catch it when it doesn't start. The problem is completely random, I never know when it will happen. Another problem that may be related is that a few times it has cut off while driving, and started after waiting 10 to 20 minutes. The starter has been replaced twice, it has a new battery, and the ignition wire has been replaced. I would like to hear from anyone who has had a similar propblem with suggested fixes. My mechanic is willing to start throwing parts at it, but I am reluctant because I still won't know if it is fixed. Thanks for any suggestions.

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:welcomesmiley:

The first thing I would do is run the OBD codes an post them here. As my first guess, I would suspect the fuel pump relay (a $5 part that you can change yourself in ten minutes) but the codes will tell the tale.

Tou start the OBD readout process while the engine is running after you have driven and parked the car (or had it stall out and coasted to the side of the road - but don't turn the key off!) by pressing the OFF and PASS WARMER buttons simultaneously on the A/C console for about five seconds. All the dash lights will come on at once like you just turned on the key, then the codes will come on the message area below the speedometer, one at a time. They will be in the form of a letter followed by four digits, with a suffix of H[istory] or C[urrent]. The CURRENT codes are the most important. The module that threw the code may precede the code on the DIC; that will be a three-letter code.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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:welcomesmiley:

The first thing I would do is run the OBD codes an post them here. As my first guess, I would suspect the fuel pump relay (a $5 part that you can change yourself in ten minutes) but the codes will tell the tale.

Tou start the OBD readout process while the engine is running after you have driven and parked the car (or had it stall out and coasted to the side of the road - but don't turn the key off!) by pressing the OFF and PASS WARMER buttons simultaneously on the A/C console for about five seconds. All the dash lights will come on at once like you just turned on the key, then the codes will come on the message area below the speedometer, one at a time. They will be in the form of a letter followed by four digits, with a suffix of H[istory] or C[urrent]. The CURRENT codes are the most important. The module that threw the code may precede the code on the DIC; that will be a three-letter code.

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Thanks! On my 95 Fleetwood, the obd codes read out in the AC temperature window and I have not been able to get meaningful codes. Pointer "OO" (PCM) reads code OO, pointer "01" (CCM) reads code 00. Codes are set for the other pointers, but these have to do with the other systems, like the HVAC system, or the ABS system.

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  • 1 year later...

I just purchased a 1995 Fleetwood with 11,600 mi. It has stalled twice. Once while idling, the second time while driving. It took about 5 minutes to get it started again both times. I tried to retrieve the codes. However, there is no PASS WARMER button. So, how do I get the codes? thank you.

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I think the '95 Fleetwoods still had the onboard diagnostics. The following information is for the 1993 Fleetwood. Try it and see if you are able to pull the codes and post back your findings.

You might want to check the fuel pressure.

Simultaneously press and hold the OFF and WARMER side of the temp rocker. After the segment check, -00 will be displayed. That is the "pointer". Pressing OUTSIDE TEMP will toggle between the pointer and the trouble code. Use the FAN UP/DN to increment/decrement the pointer.

Pointers -00 thru -04 contain the trouble codes. Current codes are two digits and history codes have three digits with a "1" as the first digit. The second and third digits are the trouble code. For example 32 would be a current code and 132 would be the same code although a history code.

Pointer # Parameter Display Range Default value

-00 ECM Trouble Codes

-01 CCM Trouble codes

-02 ECC Trouble codes

-03 SIR (Airbag) trouble Codes

-04 ABS/TCS Trouble Codes

-05 Program number 0-255

-06 Commanded blower motor spd 0-128

-12 Vehicle speed in MPH

-16 Sun load sensor assy 200+ = Dark 240

150- = light

-17 Current temp. valve position 0-255

-19 Temp valve pos. (full hot) 180-250 180

-20 Temp valve pos. (full cold) 5-60 60

-21 Coolant temperature degrees C 90

-22 Commanded temp valve pos. 0-255

-24 Air delivery mode 0-7

-25 Inside air temp sens Value increases as temp. decreases

-28 Outside air temp asm Value increases as temp. decreases

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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  • 11 months later...

Cadillac 95 fleetwood 6 door made by seperior coach lines. has a code 44 which I changed the left O2 sensor and code 126 is the the sensor attached to the steerring column in the engine compartment is not plugged in. It was running fine without that. getting spark on the spark plug first one on the right. Never checked all of them for compression but car runs great onb idol. when it is at low idol in park put on the gas and it chocks abit when I put it in gear it chocks and stalls.

Please start and stay running

signed help in Kelowna

Who is in the area TO FIX THE PROBLEM MY CADILLAC BABY

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I am confused as to what the actual problem is...... Would you be more specific?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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1995 LT1 P engines don't have a crank sensor. Check the ignition coil wire at the coil, physically pull the wire off the coil. How old is the distributor?

Edited by barczy01
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The 1995 models had OBD I. The codes may be OBD I There is a letter prefix and three numbers in an OBD I code. The OBD I codes ending in 44 are:

Traction Control
T044 RF TCS Pilot Valve Fault

Air Bag
R044 Passenger Source Feed Low

Suspension (RSS)
S044 Lift or Dive Signal Fault

Powertrain (Engine)
P044 (E044) Right Oxygen Sensor Signal Lean

There is only one OBD I code ending in 126:

P126 (E126) A/C high pressure switch disabled A/C compressor

KHE has some information posted for a GM-only system in post #9 above that may help.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The Fleetwood's codes do not have the same format as the FWD cars. The codes are two digit numbers if they are current and if the code is a history code, there will be a "1" in front of the code.

OFF and WARMER will enter diagnostics and after the segment check, 00 will be displayed. Press OUTSIDE TEMP to display any codes under pointer 00. Pointers 00-04 have the codes for the various system.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I am confused as to what the actual problem is...... Would you be more specific?

The car idols fine but when I put the gas on it chocks and when it is parked and put the revs up, it chocks when it is at low RPM than put the gas on it chocks. When driving it chocks when you put the gas on like it is not getting gas have new DC Delco fuel pump PSI 40

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Sounds like the catalytic converter is stopped up.

You may have something there..... Have the mufflers ever been changed? I´ve seen aftermarket silencer clogging up from internal corrosion when the isolation plugs the flow.

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Sounds like the catalytic converter is stopped up.

You may have something there..... Have the mufflers ever been changed? I´ve seen aftermarket silencer clogging up from internal corrosion when the isolation plugs the flow.

Possible but probably not likely. The LT-1 has dual catalytic converters. A more likely problem is the optispark distributor, Coil, Ignition Module, or optispark unit. If the coil, ignition module and fuel pressure check good, the Optispark unit is a prime suspect.

Symptoms of a bad Optispark unit:

* Car suddenly dies and won't restart

* Starts but immediately dies

* Extended cranking to start

* Rough idle

* Sputtering

* Backfiring

* Trouble reaching higher rpm

* Black smoke from exhaust

* Poor performance with car warmed up

* Weak plug wire spark

* Codes 16, 36, and 42 may be set

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I am confused as to what the actual problem is...... Would you be more specific?

Have codes 44 and 144 car has a hard time starting and when it runs it is fine. The moment I put it into gear it stalls. PCM was smokin and took the PCM out and photo shot the problem area I believe. Changed the TPS throttle position sensor and left O2 sensor.

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I am confused as to what the actual problem is...... Would you be more specific?

LT1 5.7 has a hard start and when it's running it is perfect maybe a little rough but good. Put the gas pedal and it chckes and when it is in drive and or reverse it chockes when I put on the gas. Would it be where the spark plug wires go behind the water pump needs a tune up. Gas pressure is 40 and the fuel pressure guage has no smell like gas and there is a vacum there..Changed the TPS Trottle Position Sensor

Please Help BusterBruce

Edited by busterBruce
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Yeah...could be where the spark plug wires are going. The optispark...for all practical purposes...is another name for distributor.

Like a distributor...there can be multiple different problems....cap...rotor...moisture. There were several redesigns of the unit thru the years.

I attached a pic.

post-2-0-83759500-1406165591_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 years later...

 I have a 1995 Cadillac Fleetwood 5.7 Liter LT1, the car runs beautifully at start-up, idle, normal acceleration and even cruising on the highway at 75 mph. However, will sputter & spit and fart when I mash on the gas at (WOT)... when the car is in Full Throttle Position “All He’ll Breaks Loose”. Happens when the car is cold or warm and I can’t seem to pinpoint the problem. Any thoughts or suggestions out there?...

 The car runs awesome any other time, even gets great gas mileage, also passes SMOG CHECK with flying colors.  

Wide Open Throttle seems to be the the only issue... Any thoughts on what parts I need to look at first and to consider replacing or changing?

Has anyone ever experienced the same problem I’m having?

Please Help!!! 

-C.T. Las Vegas, Nevada 

Edited by C.T.
Spelling Errors
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The first thing I would do is run the OBD codes to see what the car's computers think.  See the link in my signature block for a Caddyinfo page on reading your OBD codes.

If the car passes emissions testing, that means that it has no current emissions codes, not that there are no problems.  Nearly always, if the Check Engine light is off, the car will pass emissions testing as it is done lately.  There may be History codes or intermittent problems, or there may be something that is not detected by the car's OBD system.  But often a check of History OBD codes and codes other than emissions codes will tell you something important, occasionally about a problem that you weren't aware of.

If there are not OBD codes that reflect on your problem, I would check the plug wires, the coils, the crank sensors, MAP sensor, and also for clogging in the catalytic converter.  If you are mechanically inclined, you might check the plugs for odd or non-uniform appearance, but be aware that anti-seize compound and silicone plug boot compound must be used when replacing the plugs, and proper torque must be used.

A real code reader that provides misfire counts by cylinder can be helpful in identifying plug, ignition wire, or coil problems.  Each coil fires two cylinders, and problems on both for a particular coil point to the coil as opposed to the plugs or wires.  Moving wires from coil to coil can verify that a coil is bad - or good, but the wires or plugs are bad.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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