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leaking sunroof update


davedog

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well, it started raining a few days ago again, and all was dry so i thought it was fixed. Had a real hard rain last night, and now i've got a wet headliner again - GRRRR! Anyway, this time it is at the rear of the headliner again, but onl the passanger side...

I fixed a kink in the hose in the drivers side in the trunk, but i have not had enough time t blow out the drain tubs. I 'll try that next.

I can see the two front drains when i opne the sunroof, but i can't see the back ones. Also I know the back drains drain out below the trunk, but what about the front ones.

THANKS

-dave B)

P.S. I just noticed the the "seal" that goes around the rear window - the ruber thing with the chrome strip - seems to be loose on one corner....the SAME coner that is right over my area of wet headliner. COULD THIS BE THE ISSUE??? If so how would I fix this??

Crystal Red Tintcoat Exterior | Shale/Brownstone Interior | 32k

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more investigation work. inspected the rear window seal along the top on the drivers side (the side of the headliner that stayed dry) - very firm, can't pry it up at all, on the passanger side i wiggle it, and actually pull the seal up some.....seems like water could get under there easily, but would that cause the leak, I mean surly there is more that seals that window in than that first seal....

i dunno, is this the sorce of the leak??

The sunroof thing just doesn't add up....the seal on it is very tight, and the inside tray always seems dry.

If it is that seal can I just use some clear silicone on it, or do I need to take it into the window shop

what do you guys think? :blink:

Crystal Red Tintcoat Exterior | Shale/Brownstone Interior | 32k

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THIS SOUNDS LIKE MY PROBLEM:

Cadillac: 1996 Seville STS

When it rains REALLY bad.  I mean REALLY bad.  I get water dripping near the back window onto the back seat.  The ceiling is all wet of course.

I have know idea where it's coming from.  Any ideas?  Back window was my best shot.  The external rubber strips on the corners are up but isn't there an inside seal?

If not, what should I use to "glue" those rubber strips back down.

Thanks,

Randy

Cadillac: 1999 STS

I got some silicone seal stuff made especially for auto windshields.  It is "runny" compared to the usual stuff.  Was able to lift the seal with a pencil and shoot the siliconeunder the seal.  Took two applications buy it stopped the leak on a twelve yr. old car.

Maybe this is my problem????

Crystal Red Tintcoat Exterior | Shale/Brownstone Interior | 32k

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Don't blow out the lines - you run the risk of blowing the connector(s) apart and then you'll really have a mess. Use a length of weed whacker line as a snake to rod out the tubes.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Dittos to using the weed whacker line. Also, I found that the rear lines on my Seville were slightly blocked up down by the rear wheelwell ends, which made it easy to clean, since they are in full view. By the way, I cleaned the rear tubes from the wheelwell up, and the fronts from the sunroof down...much easier that way.

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I had a terrible problem with leaks on my sunroof. I used weed wacker lines to clear the drains to know avail. Still leaked with a hard rain. Finally I had to take the covers off of the roof post on the front to check the drain tubes( be very careful because they are easy to break). I found that the tubes were not secured to the the drain holes. I had to remove the sun visors to get a little bit of room but I was able to work them back on. The problem was as soon as you tried to reassemble everything they would work their way off again. In my opion it is a very poor design and it is almost unservicable because there is so little room to work. Finally I used a clear silcon glue to secure the drain hose to the drain. I reassembled everything and I haven't had another leak in two years.

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I know the back drains drain out below the trunk, but what about the front ones.

The front drain lines run down inside the windshield pillars, then (probably) behind the kick panels to exit somewhere just ahead of and slightly inboard from the front door seams. If you run a weed whacker line down through them, the exit should be very east to spot.

photo-36.jpg

Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes.

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P.S. I just noticed the the "seal" that goes around the rear window - the ruber thing with the chrome strip - seems to be loose on one corner....the SAME coner that is right over my area of wet headliner. COULD THIS BE THE ISSUE??? If so how would I fix this??

had that prob on my eldo, the strip around the rear winshield right? if thats the case i had a winshield installer guy on my lot a couple months ago said he could fix it for me, used some black caulk lookin stuff. squirt and tape. 24 hours latter after the removal of the tape, it was like new. flat against the surface. i never had any leaks thogh so i dont know if that would cause it, but theoriticly, it could. let me know.

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You're talking about the back glass when you say rear window? The strip around the backglass is a garnish moulding, and that part has nothing to do with the backglass' seal. If I recall correctly, the 92 molding is an insert between the body and the glass, where later models have them intergrated with the glass.

Push on the inside of the glass. (It's an intergrated part of the car's frame, and it's anchored with urethane, a substance that is the equivilant to flexibe conctete.) If it moves when you push, it's leaking.

Don't feel bad about this no-brainer because 99.9% of the professional mechanics cannot figure out this kindergarden concept: Water test the backglass, but don't get the sunroof wet. If you keep the sunroof dry, and it leaks when you water test the backglass, it's a no brainer.

If it's the backglass, I hate to tell you this, but the correct way to repair it is to r & i the backglass. If it's a replacement that is someone's f/u to repair, from the inside, they'll squirt some pukey between the pinchweld and the glass. The problem, however, is that it's part of the car's frame. As a result, such a repair still allows the glass to flex independantly from the body. Eventually, it will start to leak again. In addition, water will accluminate in the void, and it wll rust-out the area. Furthermore, if it's a factory installation, what has happened is that the urethane has broken loose from the body. (Its' typical of GM for the top coat and primer coat to seperate, so there's a good chance that it's a factory glass breaking loose.)

On any glass is r & i, the shop will not garunteee against breakage. A good glassman should be able to r & i, 19 out of 20 windsheilds without breaking one. Temepered parts--backglasses and stationary/encapsulated quarters--will have a breakage rate of one out of every 200 to 300 r & i's. Remember, I said a good glassman, so you have to consider the 99.9% factor of professional mechanics, making a glass r & i a hit-or-miss as far as breakage ratio. If it's leaking, good luck at getting a satisfactory repair.

Check it out, and if it's the backglass leaking, make a new post--I have bad short term memory loss--and we'll take it from there.

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