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let thhe bad news fly


rockfangd

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Both of my cadillacs have bad news for me today, my Deville has a nasty coolant leak coming from behind the right front tire at the subframe. Looks like one of the coolant pipes or a hose to the surge tank. I imagine I will have to replace everything related to the 2 pipes due to rust. Not easy and about 220 in parts.

The Seville looks like the radiaator went. It is leaking on the passenger side below the upper radiator hose between the plastic and metal part of the radiator.

I am so bummed because I dont really have the money to fix either and need at least one of my cars.

What a nice way to start my monday lol. Why both at the same time, it is one heck of a coincidence. Will post updated on progress

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Both of my cadillacs have bad news for me today, my Deville has a nasty coolant leak coming from behind the right front tire at the subframe. Looks like one of the coolant pipes or a hose to the surge tank. I imagine I will have to replace everything related to the 2 pipes due to rust. Not easy and about 220 in parts.

The Seville looks like the radiaator went. It is leaking on the passenger side below the upper radiator hose between the plastic and metal part of the radiator.

I am so bummed because I dont really have the money to fix either and need at least one of my cars.

What a nice way to start my monday lol. Why both at the same time, it is one heck of a coincidence. Will post updated on progress

The leak on the Seville is most likely a cracked inlet tank. You do not need to replace the radiator - a decent radiator shop can change the tank for less than $100.00. It is always the inlet tank that goes bad due to the higher temperatures vs. the outlet tank.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Both of my cadillacs have bad news for me today, my Deville has a nasty coolant leak coming from behind the right front tire at the subframe. Looks like one of the coolant pipes or a hose to the surge tank. I imagine I will have to replace everything related to the 2 pipes due to rust. Not easy and about 220 in parts.

The Seville looks like the radiaator went. It is leaking on the passenger side below the upper radiator hose between the plastic and metal part of the radiator.

I am so bummed because I dont really have the money to fix either and need at least one of my cars.

What a nice way to start my monday lol. Why both at the same time, it is one heck of a coincidence. Will post updated on progress

Yep, that entire metal hose that connects to the "green garden hose" like connector seems to be a problem child. I keep an eye on mine from underneath, and will be treating it with rust neutralizer, and some paint (to protect it).

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Yep, that entire metal hose that connects to the "green garden hose" like connector seems to be a problem child. I keep an eye on mine from underneath, and will be treating it with rust neutralizer, and some paint (to protect it).

Yeah, two weeks after I got my 95 STS those metal coolant hoses burst and it cost me $600 to get replaced. Treatment and paint sounds like a good option, I'll have to do that to my 90 Deville I just picked up.

Rockfangd, that sucks that both are having issues. Hope everything turns out ok.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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Both of my cadillacs have bad news for me today, my Deville has a nasty coolant leak coming from behind the right front tire at the subframe. Looks like one of the coolant pipes or a hose to the surge tank. I imagine I will have to replace everything related to the 2 pipes due to rust. Not easy and about 220 in parts.

The Seville looks like the radiaator went. It is leaking on the passenger side below the upper radiator hose between the plastic and metal part of the radiator.

I am so bummed because I dont really have the money to fix either and need at least one of my cars.

What a nice way to start my monday lol. Why both at the same time, it is one heck of a coincidence. Will post updated on progress

The leak on the Seville is most likely a cracked inlet tank. You do not need to replace the radiator - a decent radiator shop can change the tank for less than $100.00. It is always the inlet tank that goes bad due to the higher temperatures vs. the outlet tank.

Is not the inlet tank on the driver side?

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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my Deville has a nasty coolant leak coming from behind the right front tire at the subframe. Looks like one of the coolant pipes or a hose to the surge tank. I imagine I will have to replace everything related to the 2 pipes due to rust. Not easy and about 220 in parts.

It should be possible to by-pass one or both of those coolant pipes using a few feet of heater hose, some clamps, and a few 1/2" copper pipe unions (also available in a 'T' configuration if needed), possibly under $30 in parts, and if an original appearance is not a primary concern. Earlier this year, I used the above parts plus an 18" length of 1/2" copper pipe (for a slightly neater appearance in the coil pack area) to by-pass one of those pipes in a 1996 Concours. The original piping was mostly solid, but had failed due to external rust-through approaching the 90 degree bend (to the front) on the passenger side; the by-pass extends from one of the heater core hoses to a point left of the HVAC blower where it was relatively easy to hacksaw through the original pipe.

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Thanks all for the responses,

The leak is on the inlet side on the seville. I was quoted 150.00 fo a new radiator butt I think I am going to wait through the winter and make the deville priority.

As for the deville I would rather not modify anything. I did it on my 96 eldo and it was only for temporary. I ordered both pipes, all 3 hoses (2 to heatercore and 1 to surge tank) but could not bring myself to spend 23.00 a peice for the 2 hoses for the driver side. I looked at it from the underneath and it looks like the heatercore area is where the leak is, but the pipes and clamps look like ticking timebombs anyway so I might as well do it right the first time. I just have to order the heatercore. I think the dogbones had something to do with the leak. Looks like the engine may be getting too close to the heaterbox, and the brittle plastc is nearly demolished (dont even want to think about that right now)

So anyway this weekend I will be doing the whole job and finally my blowermotor while I am there.

anyone got any tips to make the pipes a little easier

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Thanks all for the responses,

The leak is on the inlet side on the seville. I was quoted 150.00 fo a new radiator butt I think I am going to wait through the winter and make the deville priority.

As for the deville I would rather not modify anything. I did it on my 96 eldo and it was only for temporary. I ordered both pipes, all 3 hoses (2 to heatercore and 1 to surge tank) but could not bring myself to spend 23.00 a peice for the 2 hoses for the driver side. I looked at it from the underneath and it looks like the heatercore area is where the leak is, but the pipes and clamps look like ticking timebombs anyway so I might as well do it right the first time. I just have to order the heatercore. I think the dogbones had something to do with the leak. Looks like the engine may be getting too close to the heaterbox, and the brittle plastc is nearly demolished (dont even want to think about that right now)

So anyway this weekend I will be doing the whole job and finally my blowermotor while I am there.

anyone got any tips to make the pipes a little easier

If money is REALLY tight, you can buy an inlet tank with gasket for $45 from rockauto and do the job yourself. Not hard at all, I have done the both inlet and outlet on my 1991 Seville and the inlet on my 1995 Fleetwood. The most time consuming is actually remving and installing the radiator, refilling system etc. Replacing the tank is a blast. No special tools are required.

Nevertheless, because aftermarket all-metal radiators are good enough and cheap, replacing the whole thing might be the way to go.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Thanks all for the responses,

The leak is on the inlet side on the seville. I was quoted 150.00 fo a new radiator butt I think I am going to wait through the winter and make the deville priority.

As for the deville I would rather not modify anything. I did it on my 96 eldo and it was only for temporary. I ordered both pipes, all 3 hoses (2 to heatercore and 1 to surge tank) but could not bring myself to spend 23.00 a peice for the 2 hoses for the driver side. I looked at it from the underneath and it looks like the heatercore area is where the leak is, but the pipes and clamps look like ticking timebombs anyway so I might as well do it right the first time. I just have to order the heatercore. I think the dogbones had something to do with the leak. Looks like the engine may be getting too close to the heaterbox, and the brittle plastc is nearly demolished (dont even want to think about that right now)

So anyway this weekend I will be doing the whole job and finally my blowermotor while I am there.

anyone got any tips to make the pipes a little easier

Plastic parts (radiator side tanks, heater core side tanks, a restricter, a tee) do fail because of heating cooling cycles, age, etc. A failed plastic part in cooling heating system can leave you stranded...

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Well all my parts for my Deville came in today, cost me just under 200.00 for the pipes, hoses, and heatercores. I wasnt willing to pay 25.00 a peice for the 2 silicone hoses for the driver side to the WP housing, and wherever the other one goes. I am just going to try to reuse mine. I still have to pick up coolant anyway.

for anyone interested here are the GM part numbers for the parts in case anyone else has to tackle this

1. 25679319. pipe to tank hose

2. 25679317. heatercore to pipe hose

3. 25679318. pipe to heatercore hose

4. 25671310. inlet pipe from crossover to heatercore

5. 25688468. outlet pipe from heatercore to waterpump housing

6. 22784517. heatercore.

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GM FAN FOREVER

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Those green silicone hoses should be good for the several lifetimes of the vehicle - I wouldn't worry about not replacing them.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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well today went ok. I pressure tested the system and found the coolant leak running down the fireewall on the passenger side. So I did make the right call on the heatercore, so I my plan was to replace the heatercore, hoses, and pipes. That didnt go well. All hose clamps came right off and hoses slid right off heatercore(unexpected)but I couldnt budge thhe engine at all. I removed the dogbones and tried to pull the engine forward and it wouldnt budge (I replaced all lower motormounts last year) and on top of that the 2 7mm bolts wouldnt budge that hold the pipes. So I gave up for now and decided to change the heatercore and try it for now.

So I am going to hold onto the pipes, hoses, and blower motor until I need them hopefully not till spring. Abd I am purchasing the engine mover that secures to the dogbone mounts to move rock the engine. Also not sure what to do about the crumbled plastic surround for the heaterbox (dont want to get into it)

So enjoy this writeup for heatercore replacement. with pics.

underhood.

1. disconnect negative battery terminal.

2. partially drain cooling system

3. loosen hoseclamps to heatercore(located at firewall behind the right front strut tower) remove hoses

4. open glove compartment and opem door at rear of compartment, then just remove the clip from the comparment. no need to unplug the plug. it is SIR

5. remove the 6 torx screws (4 facing forward on each side and 2 inside the compartment facing downward)

6. pull compartment insert out with door open and set to toward the center of car. (Be careful as there are 3 plugs on the left side)

7. mark thread on the actuator lever on top of the heaterbox, then remove it by pulling upward on the threated lever (note on the Seville, Eldorado, and console shift Deville there will be 2 actuators, due to the dual zone climate control)

8.unclip programmer from the firewall at the right front corner of the dash by releasing the clip and pulling the unit forward and out. Let it lay on the floor (no need to disconnect it)

9.look at the heaterbox and you will see 2 5.5 mm brass screws, (cant miss them) remove them both and the case splits revealing the heatercore inside.

10. inside the heaterbox there is 2 more brass screws that retain the holding bracket for the heatercore. remove them.

Pull the heatercore toward you till the pipes pull through the firewall, then pull it down and out of the heaterbox.

Installation is reverse of removal, but one important step before you reinstall the glove compartment. Reconnect the Actuator linkage(s) and reconnect the negative battery terminal.

Turn the key on but dont staart the engine. Watch the actuator(s) do 2 full cycles and come to rest. Then test the actuators by raising and lowering the HVAC temps. Once you have verified all is good reinstall the glove compartment.

Reconnect heater hoses, fill and purge the system.

Total job took me 32 minutes. one of the most decent heatercores I have done.

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GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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could have been. but the heatercore tank where the hoses attach was plastic so it may have cracked. They were tight. but I am unsure if the heatercore was original

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could have been. but the heatercore tank where the hoses attach was plastic so it may have cracked. They were tight. but I am unsure if the heatercore was original

Aftermarket all-metal heater cores are available.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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thats what I installed. but the old one had a plastic tank on the hose side, I am not sure if it was the original

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thats what I installed. but the old one had a plastic tank on the hose side, I am not sure if it was the original

The OEM heater cores have plastic side tanks (unfortunately).

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so maybe it was the original. I changed the one in my 96 Eldo awhile back and that had plastic also. And it made a mess. I havent gotten the chance to inspect the one I removd but I am thinking the tank cracked. Plastic, ugh

GM FAN FOREVER

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  • 2 weeks later...

good news on the deville, heatercore must have been the culprit. no leaks anymore

great news :)

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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  • 2 weeks later...

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