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ok so my car has been makin a terrible ticking noise and i took it to the repair shop they did a smoke test on the exhaust and my driver exhaust manifold has a crack in it. thought ok no big deal till they told me that the part has been discountinued. does anyone know where i can find a driver exhaust manifold or what type of shortie headers i can put on it?

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Try a junkyard - 350 exhaust manifolds are a dime a dozen in junkyards. Check it to make sure it is flat - you might need to have it resurfaced. If you can't find one, I think they are available in the aftermarket - try rockauto.com.

Several parts are no longer available for that engine - the exhaust studs/bolts are no longer available as well as the retainer on the back passenger side of the manifold. I am talking about the "U" shaped parts that have tabs to bend against the hex portion of the studs/bolts to keep them from backing out. I made a replacement.

It would be interesting to see if you have any broken exhaust bolts/studs. I would warm up the engine and then use an air impact wrench with a long extension through the wheel well to remove the bolts. If any are broken off, they can be drilled out with a right angle drill and a drill guide to keep the drill centered and straight.

From the factory, the 350 engine did not have exhaust manifold gaskets. If you install gaskets, make sure the gaskets do not restruct the exhaust ports. Clamp them in place with the square hole in the gasket centered over the hole in the manifold, then use a die grinder to relieve the hook area that contacts the exhaust manifold studs. Then use bolts to fasten the gasket to the manifild and machine the square portion of the gasket so there is no gasket material overhangine/obstructing the port. Use a skim coat of permatex ultra copper RTV on both sides of the gasket upon reassembly. Use anti-sieze on the studs when you install the manifolds.

Clean up the knuckle areas of the Y-pipe and manifolds and apply some exhaust cement prior to connecting the Y-pipe so you won't have any leaks.

I would also recommend replacing the nuts that retain the Y-pipe with stainless steel nuts. Coat the studs with anti-sieze and if it ever has to come apart, it will do so easily. Use a cutting torch to heat up the nuts prior to removal so you don't break off the studs.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Try a junkyard - 350 exhaust manifolds are a dime a dozen in junkyards. Check it to make sure it is flat - you might need to have it resurfaced. If you can't find one, I think they are available in the aftermarket - try rockauto.com.

Several parts are no longer available for that engine - the exhaust studs/bolts are no longer available as well as the retainer on the back passenger side of the manifold. I am talking about the "U" shaped parts that have tabs to bend against the hex portion of the studs/bolts to keep them from backing out. I made a replacement.

It would be interesting to see if you have any broken exhaust bolts/studs. I would warm up the engine and then use an air impact wrench with a long extension through the wheel well to remove the bolts. If any are broken off, they can be drilled out with a right angle drill and a drill guide to keep the drill centered and straight.

From the factory, the 350 engine did not have exhaust manifold gaskets. If you install gaskets, make sure the gaskets do not restruct the exhaust ports. Clamp them in place with the square hole in the gasket centered over the hole in the manifold, then use a die grinder to relieve the hook area that contacts the exhaust manifold studs. Then use bolts to fasten the gasket to the manifild and machine the square portion of the gasket so there is no gasket material overhangine/obstructing the port. Use a skim coat of permatex ultra copper RTV on both sides of the gasket upon reassembly. Use anti-sieze on the studs when you install the manifolds.

Clean up the knuckle areas of the Y-pipe and manifolds and apply some exhaust cement prior to connecting the Y-pipe so you won't have any leaks.

I would also recommend replacing the nuts that retain the Y-pipe with stainless steel nuts. Coat the studs with anti-sieze and if it ever has to come apart, it will do so easily. Use a cutting torch to heat up the nuts prior to removal so you don't break off the studs.

could this be why my gas mileage has gone to s@!% or is my catalytic converter messing up because of the exhaust leak thats allowin cold air to get into the exhaust system?

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