winterset Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 I did an inspection, and the slapping noise I heard must be from the tear in the belt. I thought it was my tensioner going bad. I have been hearing excessive belt noise for a few months, so I'm not sure how to proceed. How can I tell if the serp tensioner is bad vs. just replacing the belt. Can a bad tensioner chew up a belt - the belt (Gates brand) is from 1999. I will not drive the car till the belt is replaced. THANKS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Man... you got really good service from that belt... It is at least 12 years old... :) When the belt is off, you can spin the tensioner by hand while listening for any bearing noise and try to wiggle it back and forth to check for any play it may have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted October 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Man... you got really good service from that belt... It is at least 12 years old... :) When the belt is off, you can spin the tensioner by hand while listening for any bearing noise and try to wiggle it back and forth to check for any play it may have. when I spin it, I hear beads moving around somewhere in there, and there is a very slight wiggle to be had on the tensioner wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted October 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Man... you got really good service from that belt... It is at least 12 years old... :) When the belt is off, you can spin the tensioner by hand while listening for any bearing noise and try to wiggle it back and forth to check for any play it may have. when I spin it, I hear beads moving around somewhere in there, and there is a very slight wiggle to be had on the tensioner wheel. Anyone know the approx cost of this part? - should I go OEM, or is a good aftermarket acceptable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 I use dayco or oem only, around 30.00 usually GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted October 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 I use dayco or oem only, around 30.00 usually So I would be just purchasing the pully, not the entire tensioner? - I see on ebay I can get an OEM pully (just the wheel) for ~$20.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 I use dayco or oem only, around 30.00 usually So I would be just purchasing the pully, not the entire tensioner? - I see on ebay I can get an OEM pully (just the wheel) for ~$20.00 This is just me... but if it is for the 96... it is 15 years old... I would replace the whole thing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 The spring loaded tensioners rarely FU. But check it and feel for a good strong action, to and fro. Remove all of your idlers and take them to a good alternator rebuild shop and have press out and press in some new bearings. $10 apiece, likely.The pulleys themselves can last forever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 The plastic pulleys are overmolded over the bearing assembly so you can't change the bearing but you can carefully pry out the seal and repack it with bearing grease. That will usually restore it unless it is too fare gone. You can change the bearing on the metal pulleys - press the old one out and take it to a bearing supply house. Probably a $5.00 bearing. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 I don't see any plastic pulleys in either one of my cars. In my opinion plastic pulleys are an aftermarket replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 I don't see any plastic pulleys in either one of my cars. In my opinion plastic pulleys are an aftermarket replacement. OK. I started this thread, and took the suggested advice. my AC pully(wheel) was also loose & wobbly. for $20 I was able to purchase an AC Delco pully. I put it on. the tensioner assembly pully wheel is definately original, and it's plastic. I was planning on replacing just the wheel, but I am unable to remove it, nor find the part# , so I am taking Jim's advice, and replacing the entire unit with another AC Delco for about $60.00 The AC pully was noisy as heck, and had bearing grease all under the cover. I thought the belts were noisy, and this thing sounded like a can of dry beans shaking when after removed from the car & spun by hand. I was only replacing an O2 sensor, and so far have added replacement of: - 2 dogbones - tensioner assembly (job still to be done) - AC pully - belt Hopefully this takes care of worn out parts for the next few years. I am really pushing myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Replacing the whole tensioner is a good idea. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 The A/C hub bearing can be replaced without messing with the refrigerant charge. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 The things you are replacing are pretty typical, I did the same on my 96 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 The car was apart & non-operational since, but I just finished this job today. Delco Air conditioning pully $20 with shipping Delco Tensioner assembly $44.00 with shipping Gates serp belt $19.95 Anchor torque mounts (both) $23 Delco O2 sensor $53.64 Car is quieter now - I heard a tick noise which is why I inspected the belts & noticed the tear. after spinning the pullys, I heard bearing noise. I believe that is what caused the tick. Also it's smoother when I use the gear selector into park-reverse-drive (there used to be a slight jerk felt) Don't know if the car has to go thru a re-learn with the new O2, but it rode like a dream, & instant MPG on the highway never went lower than the high 20's - but more satisfying was that I did not to see the "SERVICE EMISSIONS SYSTEM" message. Finishing this was my Christmas present to myself & 3 successful repairs in one shot was very satisfying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Very nice... It is always gratifying to hear of a job that turned out well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian09 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 It winds around all of your auto's accessories, powering them as the crankshaft turns. It will turn your alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning, and so on. In older cars, there could be individual belts for each accessory. With a serpentine, one belt winds around to all of them. The downside is that replacing them is often a bear of a job. The actual part is cheap, but the labor involved in getting it off can drive the price way up. For replacement, 60,000 miles is a good rule to follow. Take a look at the belt - do you see cracks in it? If so, definitely time to replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Safari2000 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 Yeh! It kind of grows on you after awhile. Like moss or the taste of good beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike5514 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 Lot of perks when you do the job yourself and you can see the results, great work. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 It winds around all of your auto's accessories, powering them as the crankshaft turns. It will turn your alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning, and so on. In older cars, there could be individual belts for each accessory. With a serpentine, one belt winds around to all of them. The downside is that replacing them is often a bear of a job. The actual part is cheap, but the labor involved in getting it off can drive the price way up. For replacement, 60,000 miles is a good rule to follow. Take a look at the belt - do you see cracks in it? If so, definitely time to replace it. OEM serpentine belts are good for 100,000 miles. Cracks across the ribs of a serpentine belt are not a reason for belt replacement. If there are chunks out of the belt, then it is time to replace it. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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