lothos Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Not a problem. I can't stress enough to keep scotchbrite away - here is a post from the guru on Scotchbrite: http://www.caddyinfo...scotchbrite.htm KHE, is it just the scotch brite we should avoid, or any kind of deal like that? My buddy says he has like a $14 3M brand disc deal that he uses to remove gaskets. They come in different colors, blue, yellow, etc. Are you familiar with those? Would something like that be OK to use? WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 I won the FSM on ebay for ten bucks Hoping to have it by Wednesday. I have all the parts I need except the fuel/brake/PS lines. Can't wait to get started on it this week WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Any aluminum oxide (scotch brite) - whatever form it is in is deadly to bearings. If the 3M pad has aluminum oxide, don't let it anywhere near the engine. There is no way to keep the dust out of the engine no matter how careful you are. It is best to use a gasket scraper - it will take longer but you won't risk damaging the engine. Be sure to lay rags in the valley to keep the crud from falling into the engine. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Attached a camera phone picture of the engine with the intake off. My FSM isn't here yet I was hoping to have it before we started the intake manifold gasket replacement but it seems my buddy has started tearing it down already. Here's what I found online, In foot pounds: ROCKER ARM PIVOT TO SUPPORT SCREWS - 22 ROCKER ARM SUPPORT TO HEAD BOLT NUTS - 37 ROCKER ARM SUPPORT TO HEAD - 7 Is that it? Can anyone please post the torque specs and sequence for the 1990 4.5 intake manifold gasket? WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Here's a few more pictures WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Does anyone have the 1990 Deville FSM? I need torque specs and sequences for the 4.5. Lower intake specs, valve cover specs, anyone know what we'll need? My FSM won't be here for another day or three edit: Added some BIG photos in the post before this. WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Does anyone have the 1990 Deville FSM? I need torque specs and sequences for the 4.5. Lower intake specs, valve cover specs, anyone know what we'll need? My FSM won't be here for another day or three edit: Added some BIG photos in the post before this. 4.5 and 4.9 are very similar. Hope this helps. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Does anyone have the 1990 Deville FSM? I need torque specs and sequences for the 4.5. Lower intake specs, valve cover specs, anyone know what we'll need? My FSM won't be here for another day or three edit: Added some BIG photos in the post before this. 4.5 and 4.9 are very similar. Hope this helps. That does help, thank you very much Here are some other torque specs I found: ROCKER ARM PIVOT TO SUPPORT SCREWS - 22 FT LB ROCKER ARM SUPPORT TO HEAD BOLT NUTS - 37 FT LB ROCKER ARM SUPPORT TO HEAD - 7 FT LB Will I need any other torque specs? FSM won't be here for another day or three. WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 We did the intake manifold gaskets and the valve cover gaskets today. I was able to find torque specs for the valve cover gaskets on another website. I also read that you MUST RTV the little triangle gaskets in place on the valve covers, and we did that. We got most of the engine put together today. We also did ball joints, tie rod ends, the power steering lines, and got started on fixing that rust on the wheel wells. I also tore apart the positive and negative battery terminals and cleaned them out til they shined.. they were really bad. That's the battery tray there. The yellow wire had some corrosion on the end of it... either clipped off a while ago or pulled out or corroded off. No clue where it is supposed to go, and my FSM isn't here yet. Anyone know where it goes??? <---- FRONT of car WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Here's a picture of me with my respirator and goggles on Here's the rust on the wheel well. We knocked out the bad parts and kept the good metal Here's the start to the fiberglass fix. We're planning on finishing the fiberglass and doing some bondo work, my buddy says it'll look almost like new when we get done with it. This is the start of my buddy putting the engine back together Here's where we left off today. Starting to look a lot more like an engine WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Nice update on your progress. I think the yellow wire may be the jumper wire for either the fuel pump or the distributor bypass wire. The fuel pump wire used to be green as far as I can recall but they may have changed the color. It is used to test the fuel pulp by connecting it to the positive battery terminal. If it is the distributor bypass wire, it is grounded to put the ECM into the "set timing" mode so the ignition timing can be set to spec. It is similar to disconnecting plugging the vacuum advance so the timing could be set on much older cars. I would not connect this wire to anything until your FSM arrives so you can confirm what it is. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Nice update on your progress. I think the yellow wire may be the jumper wire for either the fuel pump or the distributor bypass wire. The fuel pump wire used to be green as far as I can recall but they may have changed the color. It is used to test the fuel pulp by connecting it to the positive battery terminal. If it is the distributor bypass wire, it is grounded to put the ECM into the "set timing" mode so the ignition timing can be set to spec. It is similar to disconnecting plugging the vacuum advance so the timing could be set on much older cars. I would not connect this wire to anything until your FSM arrives so you can confirm what it is. Thanks for the reply KHE. My service manual came today FSM says that the yellow wire (which I'm missing the end connector for) is the ELC Test Connector for the electronic leveling control. Ground the wire and the compressor will turn on. Looks like my air compressor is in the front there instead of underneath the rear of the car. Can't wait to get back down to the car on Saturday. My buddy finished putting the engine together today, and the ball joints and tie rod ends are done. We also replaced the cap and rotor since there was a scorch mark and some melted plastic on it and probably the cause of my E12 code. I think this is what we have left: -brake lines -fuel lines -finish the rust fixes on the front wheel wells -fluids: oil, coolant, power steering, brake -also want to inspect the electronic leveling stuff since the rear sags a little and I'm thinking the ELC might not be working correctly, but no way to tell until we get the car together. -also probably forgetting something WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Check out all vacuum lines and elbows for cracks. Do not worry much about that wheel well. Was E12 code current? The EGR valve is a PITA to replace on 4.* engines. While there, take it off, clean it up, depress the diaphragm and plug the vacuum port with finger. It should hold vacuum. If it does not, replace. Make sure the carb cleaner (if you have to use one) does not access the rubber diaphragm, it will destroy it. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Check out all vacuum lines and elbows for cracks. Do not worry much about that wheel well. Was E12 code current? The EGR valve is a PITA to replace on 4.* engines. While there, take it off, clean it up, depress the diaphragm and plug the vacuum port with finger. It should hold vacuum. If it does not, replace. Make sure the carb cleaner (if you have to use one) does not access the rubber diaphragm, it will destroy it. I believe the E12 code was a history code. The check engine light was not lit and I think it said E for history instead of E.E for a current code but I'm not sure. The distributor cap or rotor was showing some burn marks and my buddy said we needed a new one, so we replaced them. When we were putting the engine together I asked my buddy about the vacuum lines and he said they all looked good. I DID mention to him cleaning out the EGR passages and cleaning the EGR valve, but I wasn't there today and I didn't get to do it before he put the rest of the engine back together. I'll make sure to check it out on Saturday, and also clean out / rod out the EGR tubes under the throttle body blades and clean the butterfly. EDIT: The FSM says to remove the air cleaner, remove the vacuum from the EGR, unbolt the 2 bolts, and then remove the EGR valve. Is there anything in the way? Reading some other posts makes it sound more difficult than that, but a 13mm wrench that you can adjust the angle on might make it easier? Thanks for the help adallak WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Check out all vacuum lines and elbows for cracks. Do not worry much about that wheel well. Was E12 code current? The EGR valve is a PITA to replace on 4.* engines. While there, take it off, clean it up, depress the diaphragm and plug the vacuum port with finger. It should hold vacuum. If it does not, replace. Make sure the carb cleaner (if you have to use one) does not access the rubber diaphragm, it will destroy it. I believe the E12 code was a history code. The check engine light was not lit and I think it said E for history instead of E.E for a current code but I'm not sure. The distributor cap or rotor was showing some burn marks and my buddy said we needed a new one, so we replaced them. When we were putting the engine together I asked my buddy about the vacuum lines and he said they all looked good. I DID mention to him cleaning out the EGR passages and cleaning the EGR valve, but I wasn't there today and I didn't get to do it before he put the rest of the engine back together. I'll make sure to check it out on Saturday, and also clean out / rod out the EGR tubes under the throttle body blades and clean the butterfly. EDIT: The FSM says to remove the air cleaner, remove the vacuum from the EGR, unbolt the 2 bolts, and then remove the EGR valve. Is there anything in the way? Reading some other posts makes it sound more difficult than that, but a 13mm wrench that you can adjust the angle on might make it easier? Thanks for the help adallak It was a real PITA on 4.9 engine. Could be different on 4.5. If you follow FSM, you can get an impression that whole car could be disassembled in about two hours! The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 That's fine looking progress, I always liked that bodystyle. Perhaps now is not the time to ask,but would you be interested in applying some fender skirts? I have a set that will fit(from a Fleetwood) if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 That's fine looking progress, I always liked that bodystyle. Perhaps now is not the time to ask,but would you be interested in applying some fender skirts? I have a set that will fit(from a Fleetwood) if you want. I might be interested in some fender skirts. What color are they? My car is a "medium slate gray". WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 The Skirts are Georgian Silver, I'll try and figure out how to post up a pic later today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Haven't been able to get to the brake lines and fuel lines yet. We still have those to do, and the rust fix on the passenger side. Here is the completed rust fix on the drivers side: WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Hey! Looking Good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Hey! Looking Good! thanks! I think it looks a TON better. The rust was on a part of the body that's welded on, so we couldn't just replace the fender. I think my buddy did a great job on it Here's another picture with the battery and some wires hooked up: WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 my buddy worked on the car today, and I worked on it from 2pm - midnight. Motor runs really well, and the ELC air compressor does come on. Got the brake lines and fuel lines done with one exception. We didn't have the special fitting that plugs into the fuel filter. It's kind of a flare with a rubber O ring and another flare on the end. Have to pick that up tomorrow or figure something out for that. On the original fuel lines it's actually part of the metal line. Anyone know what it is or where to get one for sure? I would have taken a picture of it but I was exhausted and didn't think of it at the time. All we have left is to bleed the brakes and bleed the power steering lines WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 My buddy got that fuel line piece, and got the fuel lines hooked up. He also bled the power steering lines today. He told me the bleeder valves on the rear brakes are pretty bad and we're probably going to have to replace those parts. We still need to bleed the back brakes. I'll be heading down there shortly to go finish this up. He did take it out for a test drive and he said it drove and shifted really nicely. I can't wait to get this done today :) WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lothos Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Didn't get to drive the car home today We did end up replacing the cylinder on the rear drum brakes. They were cheap, maybe $10 each. We were bleeding the back brakes and one of the front lines popped. Buddy thought the front lines would still be good, but guess not. They're getting replaced tomorrow. Cross your fingers, but I'm hoping to actually drive the car home tomorrow! WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn. Cheers! 5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the gold2 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Lothos, this is a great thread. Thanks for the progressive detail ! The interior looks real sharp. Amazing. What a party boat ! The EGR valve ought to be easily removed using a crow's foot wrench from Sears. Might as well replace the vac lines to EGR and solenoid. Cheap insurance. WOOT ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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