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96' deville will not fire


rexrreed

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I've got a problem. I purchased 96' Deville, and it won't start. Previous owner stated he run the car out of gas. I put 5 gallon in it and tried to turn it over. It will not fire. I tried some starting fluid, and it runs as long as I'm spraying. As soon as I quit spraying, it stops. Anybody got any ideas? The valve stem at the end of the fuel tube has fuel in it and some pressure.

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I've got a problem. I purchased 96' Deville, and it won't start. Previous owner stated he run the car out of gas. I put 5 gallon in it and tried to turn it over. It will not fire. I tried some starting fluid, and it runs as long as I'm spraying. As soon as I quit spraying, it stops. Anybody got any ideas? The valve stem at the end of the fuel tube has fuel in it and some pressure.

The pressure in the fuel rail might be too low. When you turn ignition on (engine not running) can you hear the fuel pump for two seconds? Try to turn the ignition key several times without starting the car and then start . See if that helps. You probably have a bad fuel pump.

Another possibility is a bad FPR - fuel pressure regulator. There should be no gas when you pull a vacuum line off it.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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The fuel pump is cooled by the fuel in the tank. Running it dry is death to a fuel pump. I agree with Adallak. I'd put money on the pump. Check the fuel pressure to be sure. It should be around 45 psi at key on.

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well giving the situation you have I would think fuel pump also. If it hadnt been run out of gas I would think fuel pump relay under the hood. Do not confuse the ELC compressor for the fuel pump. The fuel pump kickson as soon as you turn the key on and the air ride compressor kicks on about 3 seconds later

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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well giving the situation you have I would think fuel pump also. If it hadnt been run out of gas I would think fuel pump relay under the hood. Do not confuse the ELC compressor for the fuel pump. The fuel pump kickson as soon as you turn the key on and the air ride compressor kicks on about 3 seconds later

Right. Besides, Electronic Level Control compressor is louder and runs much longer than 2 seconds.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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well giving the situation you have I would think fuel pump also. If it hadnt been run out of gas I would think fuel pump relay under the hood. Do not confuse the ELC compressor for the fuel pump. The fuel pump kickson as soon as you turn the key on and the air ride compressor kicks on about 3 seconds later

Right. Besides, Electronic Level Control compressor is louder and runs much longer than 2 seconds.

I heard that giving a wack to to underside of the fuel tank can temporarily give life back to a stuck fuel pump.

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well giving the situation you have I would think fuel pump also. If it hadnt been run out of gas I would think fuel pump relay under the hood. Do not confuse the ELC compressor for the fuel pump. The fuel pump kickson as soon as you turn the key on and the air ride compressor kicks on about 3 seconds later

Right. Besides, Electronic Level Control compressor is louder and runs much longer than 2 seconds.

I will check the pressure of the fuel pump. It sounds like that is it. I will get back with you guys later. Just check it at the end of the fuel tube, right?

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well giving the situation you have I would think fuel pump also. If it hadnt been run out of gas I would think fuel pump relay under the hood. Do not confuse the ELC compressor for the fuel pump. The fuel pump kickson as soon as you turn the key on and the air ride compressor kicks on about 3 seconds later

Right. Besides, Electronic Level Control compressor is louder and runs much longer than 2 seconds.

I will check the pressure of the fuel pump. It sounds like that is it. I will get back with you guys later. Just check it at the end of the fuel tube, right?

Yes, there is a Schreder valve at the fuel rail. Turn the key ON read the pressure. Turn the key off and see how fast the pressure drops. YOu may have a bad drain valve on the pump, turning thevkey several times to build some pressure and then start the engine would confirm that. If the valve is bad the pump will fail completely soon.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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well giving the situation you have I would think fuel pump also. If it hadnt been run out of gas I would think fuel pump relay under the hood. Do not confuse the ELC compressor for the fuel pump. The fuel pump kickson as soon as you turn the key on and the air ride compressor kicks on about 3 seconds later

Right. Besides, Electronic Level Control compressor is louder and runs much longer than 2 seconds.

I will check the pressure of the fuel pump. It sounds like that is it. I will get back with you guys later. Just check it at the end of the fuel tube, right?

Yes, there is a Schreder valve at the fuel rail. Turn the key ON read the pressure. Turn the key off and see how fast the pressure drops. YOu may have a bad drain valve on the pump, turning thevkey several times to build some pressure and then start the engine would confirm that. If the valve is bad the pump will fail completely soon.

I've found the culprit, it was a broken wire at the front of the fuel tank. When I repaired it, it fired up and ran great.

Now another problem has risen. When the car reaches 200f to 215f the oil light comes on, and then it tells me I have low oil pressure and to shut the car off. But only after it gets warmed up completely.

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Your temps sound normal

I would change the oil in put in a good grade of 10W30 oil before I do anything else. Also change the filter use an AC DELCO. Its possible the prior owner used a 5W30 or synthetic and that is causing your problem.

If the car has been sitting a long time the seals may have dried up like they did on mine when I didnt run it for over a month, immediately I had the oil pressure message. Once I let my 96 sit for 6 or so weeks with no oil in it, not running, I never solved the oil pressure problem.

You can replace the oil pressure switch, its on top of the oil filter adapter, but I doubt that will solve your problem, it didnt solve mine.

You can try high mileage 10w30 oil, high mileage oil has seal conditioners and it may help with your problem

The only thing that solve my problem was to use Delvac or Rotella 15W40. It is a thicker viscosity and it has an increased amount of zinc that will help with your 96's rubbing element lifters.

If you want to get fancy, you can retorque the crank pulley (damper) bolt to spec, if it is not torqued to spec, the oil pump will slip and cause low oil pressure.,

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Your temps sound normal

I would change the oil in put in a good grade of 10W30 oil before I do anything else. Also change the filter use an AC DELCO. Its possible the prior owner used a 5W30 or synthetic and that is causing your problem.

If the car has been sitting a long time the seals may have dried up like they did on mine when I didnt run it for over a month, immediately I had the oil pressure message. Once I let my 96 sit for 6 or so weeks with no oil in it, not running, I never solved the oil pressure problem.

You can replace the oil pressure switch, its on top of the oil filter adapter, but I doubt that will solve your problem, it didnt solve mine.

You can try high mileage 10w30 oil, high mileage oil has seal conditioners and it may help with your problem

The only thing that solve my problem was to use Delvac or Rotella 15W40. It is a thicker viscosity and it has an increased amount of zinc that will help with your 96's rubbing element lifters.

If you want to get fancy, you can retorque the crank pulley (damper) bolt to spec, if it is not torqued to spec, the oil pump will slip and cause low oil pressure.,

I changed the oil filter from a fram to an ac delco. Fired it up, and the temp went to 235f. As long as I'm driving it, the temp. stays low, as soon as I slow down or idle, it climbs right back up. Didn't change the oil. But I did notice that the oil was a little runny, slimy, and looked clean. Just like someone just changed it. But it was very runny. Strange. Is it the synthetic oil that has charactaristices like that? Never seen anything like it.

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Get rid of that oil. That could be your low oil pressure problem

It should not go to 235 unless you are in traffic... something is amiss. Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant, with the engine cool, gently pull the hose off the top of the coolant tank and let it hang inside the engine compartment, but keep it off the paint, not the overflow, the other one, go in and start the engine and let it idle, go and look at the purge line and see if it is flowing coolant. It must flow coolant, this is where the air is let out of the system, if its clogged air cant get out and the system will overheat.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Get rid of that oil. That could be your low oil pressure problem

It should not go to 235 unless you are in traffic... something is amiss. Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant, with the engine cool, gently pull the hose off the top of the coolant tank and let it hang inside the engine compartment, but keep it off the paint, not the overflow, the other one, go in and start the engine and let it idle, go and look at the purge line and see if it is flowing coolant. It must flow coolant, this is where the air is let out of the system, if its clogged air cant get out and the system will overheat.

I haven't done anything with the oil yet. But I did go ahead and change the water pump. The old one didn't look bad, but I put the new one in anyway. It didn't help my temp. issue. One thing I did try though, after I let it cool down, I cranked it up and let the temp. climb to 210f and put an external fan on the radiator to see if it had an effect. It didn't. So I left it get to 220f and sprayed water on the radiator, it didn't help either. I think I have a head gasket problem. What do you guys think?

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Get rid of that oil. That could be your low oil pressure problem

It should not go to 235 unless you are in traffic... something is amiss. Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant, with the engine cool, gently pull the hose off the top of the coolant tank and let it hang inside the engine compartment, but keep it off the paint, not the overflow, the other one, go in and start the engine and let it idle, go and look at the purge line and see if it is flowing coolant. It must flow coolant, this is where the air is let out of the system, if its clogged air cant get out and the system will overheat.

I haven't done anything with the oil yet. But I did go ahead and change the water pump. The old one didn't look bad, but I put the new one in anyway. It didn't help my temp. issue. One thing I did try though, after I let it cool down, I cranked it up and let the temp. climb to 210f and put an external fan on the radiator to see if it had an effect. It didn't. So I left it get to 220f and sprayed water on the radiator, it didn't help either. I think I have a head gasket problem. What do you guys think?

I've got another question to ask. What's my chances of just changing the head gaskets without rebuilding the heads?

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Get rid of that oil. That could be your low oil pressure problem

It should not go to 235 unless you are in traffic... something is amiss. Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant, with the engine cool, gently pull the hose off the top of the coolant tank and let it hang inside the engine compartment, but keep it off the paint, not the overflow, the other one, go in and start the engine and let it idle, go and look at the purge line and see if it is flowing coolant. It must flow coolant, this is where the air is let out of the system, if its clogged air cant get out and the system will overheat.

I haven't done anything with the oil yet. But I did go ahead and change the water pump. The old one didn't look bad, but I put the new one in anyway. It didn't help my temp. issue. One thing I did try though, after I let it cool down, I cranked it up and let the temp. climb to 210f and put an external fan on the radiator to see if it had an effect. It didn't. So I left it get to 220f and sprayed water on the radiator, it didn't help either. I think I have a head gasket problem. What do you guys think?

PLEASE answer the questions that we ask. I said "Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant" What was the result of THAT VERY IMPORTANT test?

Secondly, who stated to replace the water pump?, if you would have ASKED, I would have told you that the WATER PUMP itself is NEVER the cause of overheating

I don't know where you got this "test" but it means NOTHING, where are you getting it that 220 is overheating?

One thing I did try though, after I let it cool down, I cranked it up and let the temp. climb to 210f and put an external fan on the radiator to see if it had an effect. It didn't. So I left it get to 220f and sprayed water on the radiator, it didn't help either

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Get rid of that oil. That could be your low oil pressure problem

It should not go to 235 unless you are in traffic... something is amiss. Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant, with the engine cool, gently pull the hose off the top of the coolant tank and let it hang inside the engine compartment, but keep it off the paint, not the overflow, the other one, go in and start the engine and let it idle, go and look at the purge line and see if it is flowing coolant. It must flow coolant, this is where the air is let out of the system, if its clogged air cant get out and the system will overheat.

I haven't done anything with the oil yet. But I did go ahead and change the water pump. The old one didn't look bad, but I put the new one in anyway. It didn't help my temp. issue. One thing I did try though, after I let it cool down, I cranked it up and let the temp. climb to 210f and put an external fan on the radiator to see if it had an effect. It didn't. So I left it get to 220f and sprayed water on the radiator, it didn't help either. I think I have a head gasket problem. What do you guys think?

I've got another question to ask. What's my chances of just changing the head gaskets without rebuilding the heads?

The heads to not need rebuilding when doing a head gasket, but do not jump the gun, you have not determined conclusively that you have a head gasket problem yet

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I highly recommend that you read the posts before just trying things. It can save moneey, headaches, and time. When you are not very familiar with a vehicle it is important to learn from those of us who have been in situations like this before, becuse no matter whaat you may try nothing changes what the problem really is.

Good luck to you, and I will add that the 96 is the best year Deville ever. When taken care of they will bring you years of enjoyment and reliability

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Get rid of that oil. That could be your low oil pressure problem

It should not go to 235 unless you are in traffic... something is amiss. Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant, with the engine cool, gently pull the hose off the top of the coolant tank and let it hang inside the engine compartment, but keep it off the paint, not the overflow, the other one, go in and start the engine and let it idle, go and look at the purge line and see if it is flowing coolant. It must flow coolant, this is where the air is let out of the system, if its clogged air cant get out and the system will overheat.

I'll have to get back with you over the weekend. I'm on the road till then.

I haven't done anything with the oil yet. But I did go ahead and change the water pump. The old one didn't look bad, but I put the new one in anyway. It didn't help my temp. issue. One thing I did try though, after I let it cool down, I cranked it up and let the temp. climb to 210f and put an external fan on the radiator to see if it had an effect. It didn't. So I left it get to 220f and sprayed water on the radiator, it didn't help either. I think I have a head gasket problem. What do you guys think?

PLEASE answer the questions that we ask. I said "Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant" What was the result of THAT VERY IMPORTANT test?

Secondly, who stated to replace the water pump?, if you would have ASKED, I would have told you that the WATER PUMP itself is NEVER the cause of overheating

I don't know where you got this "test" but it means NOTHING, where are you getting it that 220 is overheating?

One thing I did try though, after I let it cool down, I cranked it up and let the temp. climb to 210f and put an external fan on the radiator to see if it had an effect. It didn't. So I left it get to 220f and sprayed water on the radiator, it didn't help either

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For the no start. 1.) Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator for leaks at the vacuum nozzle. There should not be any, if there is chang that and see what happens. 2.) Check the Fuel relay. replace it with a known good one. Most of the relays are the same, take one from something else and try it. 3.) Buy a new inline fuel filter and replace the other one. It is under the rear drivers side door on the frame. 4.) Check the fuel pressure. It should be at or close to 45psi if I remember. Anything else and buy a fuel pump. Problem should be solved by now. Glad you found a wiring problem

For the high temperature spikes. 1.) Check/change antifreeze to make sure it is a 50/50 mix and fill up to a couple inches from the cap. 2.) Make sure radiator is not plugged up with dirt or bugs. 3.) Check the purge line to make sure it is clear. Pull the purge line off the top of the surge tank. Start the car and see if antifreeze pee's out of it. If it does it is good, if not clean out the plugged line/bolt at the water pump side. 4.) Check/change thermostat. 5.) Make sure the cooling fans are coming on. Turn on the Air conditioner and the fans should come on. 6.) Check/replace surge tank cap. 7.) Check/change waterpump belt or tensioner if bad, loose, or stuck. If all this fails then check for antifreeze in the exhaust and oil. Then start thinking about pulled headbolts.

These suggestions come from experience, starting from most inexpensive. People here know their stuff, please listen to what we say, and answer any questions ask. We have our reasons for asking them. Good Luck.

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Get rid of that oil. That could be your low oil pressure problem

It should not go to 235 unless you are in traffic... something is amiss. Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant, with the engine cool, gently pull the hose off the top of the coolant tank and let it hang inside the engine compartment, but keep it off the paint, not the overflow, the other one, go in and start the engine and let it idle, go and look at the purge line and see if it is flowing coolant. It must flow coolant, this is where the air is let out of the system, if its clogged air cant get out and the system will overheat.

It didn't flow coolant. Not until it got hot again and I shut it off. Then it came out of the coolant tank. When it is running, it won't come out of anywhere.

I haven't done anything with the oil yet. But I did go ahead and change the water pump. The old one didn't look bad, but I put the new one in anyway. It didn't help my temp. issue. One thing I did try though, after I let it cool down, I cranked it up and let the temp. climb to 210f and put an external fan on the radiator to see if it had an effect. It didn't. So I left it get to 220f and sprayed water on the radiator, it didn't help either. I think I have a head gasket problem. What do you guys think?

PLEASE answer the questions that we ask. I said "Check your purge line to see if it is flowing coolant" What was the result of THAT VERY IMPORTANT test?

Secondly, who stated to replace the water pump?, if you would have ASKED, I would have told you that the WATER PUMP itself is NEVER the cause of overheating

I don't know where you got this "test" but it means NOTHING, where are you getting it that 220 is overheating?

One thing I did try though, after I let it cool down, I cranked it up and let the temp. climb to 210f and put an external fan on the radiator to see if it had an effect. It didn't. So I left it get to 220f and sprayed water on the radiator, it didn't help either

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For the no start. 1.) Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator for leaks at the vacuum nozzle. There should not be any, if there is chang that and see what happens. 2.) Check the Fuel relay. replace it with a known good one. Most of the relays are the same, take one from something else and try it. 3.) Buy a new inline fuel filter and replace the other one. It is under the rear drivers side door on the frame. 4.) Check the fuel pressure. It should be at or close to 45psi if I remember. Anything else and buy a fuel pump. Problem should be solved by now. Glad you found a wiring problem

For the high temperature spikes. 1.) Check/change antifreeze to make sure it is a 50/50 mix and fill up to a couple inches from the cap. 2.) Make sure radiator is not plugged up with dirt or bugs. 3.) Check the purge line to make sure it is clear. Pull the purge line off the top of the surge tank. Start the car and see if antifreeze pee's out of it. If it does it is good, if not clean out the plugged line/bolt at the water pump side. 4.) Check/change thermostat. 5.) Make sure the cooling fans are coming on. Turn on the Air conditioner and the fans should come on. 6.) Check/replace surge tank cap. 7.) Check/change waterpump belt or tensioner if bad, loose, or stuck. If all this fails then check for antifreeze in the exhaust and oil. Then start thinking about pulled headbolts.

These suggestions come from experience, starting from most inexpensive. People here know their stuff, please listen to what we say, and answer any questions ask. We have our reasons for asking them. Good Luck.

I did get it running. It was a bad wire at the tank. I tried the surge tank, it did not flow when it was cold. Even when it got hot, it didn't flow until I shut it off, then it came out of the coolant tank at 215f. Do you think it's plugged up at the water pump? I did change the antifreeze, thermostat, and water pump.

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I highly recommend that you read the posts before just trying things. It can save moneey, headaches, and time. When you are not very familiar with a vehicle it is important to learn from those of us who have been in situations like this before, becuse no matter whaat you may try nothing changes what the problem really is.

Good luck to you, and I will add that the 96 is the best year Deville ever. When taken care of they will bring you years of enjoyment and reliability

I own several caddys. They are all old ones. How far back is the junk motors. I know that in 2004 they made the design change. someone told me that 96' wasn't as bad as the 97'-99' era. I've also got a 93'. this does concern me alot. This is the first I've heard of all this about the Northstar. It's only because my cars are nearing the 80k marks. The 96' is supposed to go to my mother, but if it's not reliable, I won't do it. Or fix it then give it to her. I do appreciate all you guys help, but I'm under a tight schedule to work on it. I'm only home on Sundays usually. Body by Fisher is not happy with me.

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For the no start. 1.) Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator for leaks at the vacuum nozzle. There should not be any, if there is chang that and see what happens. 2.) Check the Fuel relay. replace it with a known good one. Most of the relays are the same, take one from something else and try it. 3.) Buy a new inline fuel filter and replace the other one. It is under the rear drivers side door on the frame. 4.) Check the fuel pressure. It should be at or close to 45psi if I remember. Anything else and buy a fuel pump. Problem should be solved by now. Glad you found a wiring problem

For the high temperature spikes. 1.) Check/change antifreeze to make sure it is a 50/50 mix and fill up to a couple inches from the cap. 2.) Make sure radiator is not plugged up with dirt or bugs. 3.) Check the purge line to make sure it is clear. Pull the purge line off the top of the surge tank. Start the car and see if antifreeze pee's out of it. If it does it is good, if not clean out the plugged line/bolt at the water pump side. 4.) Check/change thermostat. 5.) Make sure the cooling fans are coming on. Turn on the Air conditioner and the fans should come on. 6.) Check/replace surge tank cap. 7.) Check/change waterpump belt or tensioner if bad, loose, or stuck. If all this fails then check for antifreeze in the exhaust and oil. Then start thinking about pulled headbolts.

These suggestions come from experience, starting from most inexpensive. People here know their stuff, please listen to what we say, and answer any questions ask. We have our reasons for asking them. Good Luck.

I did get it running. It was a bad wire at the tank. I tried the surge tank, it did not flow when it was cold. Even when it got hot, it didn't flow until I shut it off, then it came out of the coolant tank at 215f. Do you think it's plugged up at the water pump? I did change the antifreeze, thermostat, and water pump.

I do not think you tested it correctly. The purge line is a hose that comes from the water pump area and connects to the surge tank. Disconnect it from the surge tank and start the car and see if coolant flows out if it. If the coolant does not flow out of the purge line hose that connects to the surge tank with the engine running, then I would absolutely say you need to clean the hole in the bolt where the coolant goes into the purge line. Follow the purge line from the surge tank back to the connection around the water pump area. You should find the plugged up line there. Clean that out and your overheating problems should go away.

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I highly recommend that you read the posts before just trying things. It can save moneey, headaches, and time. When you are not very familiar with a vehicle it is important to learn from those of us who have been in situations like this before, becuse no matter whaat you may try nothing changes what the problem really is.

Good luck to you, and I will add that the 96 is the best year Deville ever. When taken care of they will bring you years of enjoyment and reliability

I own several caddys. They are all old ones. How far back is the junk motors. I know that in 2004 they made the design change. someone told me that 96' wasn't as bad as the 97'-99' era. I've also got a 93'. this does concern me alot. This is the first I've heard of all this about the Northstar. It's only because my cars are nearing the 80k marks. The 96' is supposed to go to my mother, but if it's not reliable, I won't do it. Or fix it then give it to her. I do appreciate all you guys help, but I'm under a tight schedule to work on it. I'm only home on Sundays usually. Body by Fisher is not happy with me.

I too have also owned several Cadillacs, and I was totally in doubt and disbelief that such a fine automobile could have a common problem. The first one I bought was about 6-7 years ago, A 97 ETC. I was shocked when I found that 7 of the head bolts pulled. It seems completely random also. I have had 4 with pulled headbolts, when I bought them. And it doesnt always show right away, sometimes you have to drive it hard to find out. I have learned because 7 out of 10 cadillacs seem to have the problem. If I was to purchase one for a higher amount I would have to take a nice test drive before I made the decision. it seems the 99 is by far the worst year, and theey had 2 issues. Head bolt holes drilled to deep and pulling head bolts.

From what I see the most of is failure at righ around 100000 miles, almost to the T. I use mine as good examples. My 96 has 195000 miles on it with original everything and runs and drives like new. On the other hand my 97 Seville blew at 100000 miles, 4 headbolts pulled putting coolant in the oil and exhaust. The previous owner had it to the Cadillac dealer who never once mentioned a possible HG failure. They had reciepts of 2 waterpumps, thermostats, surge tank, crossover pipes, etc... And when I went to look at the car last year to buy it I would have never known had I not checked the oil. It was like coffee with creamer. I ended walking away from the car for a whole year but couldnt stop thinking about it. So I went back and bought it a year later. I just had to realize what I was getting into.

My best tips are if it runs good when you get it change the coolant ASAP. Because thats another point I have. nearly everyone I talk to about dexcool has the thought in their head of a 10 yeaar 100000 miles change interval. And it seems that just doesnt sound right. I stick with every 2 years and no longer. Another thing to add is that Cadillacs arent the only ones with HG problems, Alot of vehicles today are common to the problem. It is just that cadillacs are much more expensive to repair.

I think timeserting is well worth it on any cadillac worth saving. If you know the real beauty and craftsmanship it is worth every penny.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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