ml edmondson Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 My caddy has 230,000 miles and as far as I can tell it has never been messed with It even has the factory wires still on it , they still are numbered for each cyclinder engine off voltage at battery is 12.5, engine running voltage is 11.5, when engine rpm`s are raised to 2000 or better the voltage only goes to 12.2 volts ,does this sound as if I can replace the bushes in alt. to repair the problem ? Thank in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadillacjeff7777 Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Call me part of the throw away age but I would just replace the alternator. The problem could be in the voltage regulator and these days it's all contained in the alternator. Just replace the whole thing and be done with it. 2008 DTS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 My caddy has 230,000 miles and as far as I can tell it has never been messed with It even has the factory wires still on it , they still are numbered for each cyclinder engine off voltage at battery is 12.5, engine running voltage is 11.5, when engine rpm`s are raised to 2000 or better the voltage only goes to 12.2 volts ,does this sound as if I can replace the bushes in alt. to repair the problem ? Thank in advance. "IF" you know how to take the alternator apart and put it back together... the answer to your question is "YES" the brushes are replaceable. If you decide to do that, I would also replace the regulator and the rear bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 You should check for codes also, follow the directions for retreiving the codes at the bottom of this post and post any codes here Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Remember, you also have 230K on the bearings as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ml edmondson Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 ok I replaced the alt. brushes, boy that was fun just to get the alt. off after going thru all that I fired it up and got a 13.5 volts raised rpm`s above 2000 and got a reading of 14.5 so i thought great done deal. but on the inside it still read 11.3 volts, at the battery it read 13.5 how good is the volt meter inside? ok now after the engine warmed up I am back to the start 12.5 at battery and 11.3 inside, when I raise engine rpm`s the reading at the battery would not get over 12.8 volts, so I turned on the a/c , head lights voltage dropped to 12.4 volts at the battery,inside same story 11.3 volts think that i have a bad connection some where or should I just bit the bullet and replace the alt. what i don`t understand is why does this happen only after the engine gets warm what is going on with this thing is it haunted or what. Please someone just shoot me or it and put a end to it all. ok next problem after engine gets warm and oil is at operating temp the oil light comes on at idle now when I raise rpm`s the light will go off I have no engine knock at all at no time. Iam thinking oil pressure sending unit what do you think? I am thinking that if it was oil pump this thing should have blown up by now or I would have a knock or some kind of sign that the engine is going to let go. Thanks for all your help in advance this I have to say is a really cool web site If i can help anyone with something please feel free to ask be glad to help. thanks again hope to hear back real soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 As I said, check the codes, specific codes will be set for alternator issues and it will help us guide you. Did you change the regulator?, DO NOT buy an aftermarket regulator, buy only an AC DELCO regulator, there is an issue with aftermarket regulators where they do not communicate properly with the PCM Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Heat will affect the regulator... Did you replace the regulator with an AC Delco regulator?? If not, you should have... while you had the alternator apart... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 ok next problem after engine gets warm and oil is at operating temp the oil light comes on at idle now when I raise rpm`s the light will go offI have no engine knock at all at no time. I am thinking oil pressure sending unit what do you think? Most likely the oil pressure switch. It's mounted on the oil filter adapter. Be sure to use an A/C Delco switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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