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ok so i bought my first cadillac 2 months ago. What can I say its been a long time coming beautiful car a 96 deville with 130k miles on it. The ac would not come on at all. I had a shop replace the blower motor and he relay switch now the ac blows but it doesnt blow cold. It doesn't blow hot either its like a cool breeze. A buddy of mine suggest more freon which I did and of course nothing changed. I live in Texas it was 99 degrees outside on my way home today and I could drive with the windows up and it was ok but barely ok. Also smells like plastic burning when the ac is on. I have read some of the forums before I registered here. So to answer a few questions you might have the compressor kicks on and the pipes surrounding them are freezing cold and very moist. Please help as I have already put as much into this car as I have paid for it( 1700)

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Have you pulled the DTC's? Are both the inlet and outlet line at the firewall both cold and about the same temperature? Have you checked the high and low side A/C pressures?

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I did pull the codes they are pc 1654, sd1026, adn rs0038 no clue what those mean. yes i believe they are both cold everywhere i touch is freezing. There is a hissing sound when i turn the car off sounds like it could be coming from the compressor not sure though. have not checked ac pressure or know what you are talking about when you said that. I know a little about under the hood but not too much

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OBD II codes are usually of the form

AAA Lnnnn [HISTORY | CURRENT]

where AAA is a three-letter acronym telling you the module that threw the code, L is a letter - one of P, B, C or U, nnnn is a four-digit number, and the code will be followed by HISTORY or CURRENT (may be abbreviated H or C). The 1996 model year may have a different format such as what you are citing in your post, so if that's what you are seeing, it's OK.

As best I can tell these are

P1654 Cruise Control Inhibit Output Circuit

B1026 Driver Deployment Loop Open

B0038 AUX switch open/shorted to battery

None of these are related to the A/C. If the Freon is OK and the compressor is cooling, then the problem is problably a stuck mixer door, or a vacuum line off of either the programmer (the computer-controlled vacuum manifold under the dash that controls the HVAC doors), or a sticking vacuum servo. Usually any one of these will throw an OBD code. You can check the vacuum by starting the car, putting on the emergency brake, then pressing on the brake and taking the care out of Park. If the emergency brake automatically releases, then the vacuum is OK under the dash. If not, you have a vacuum line off somewhere.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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There is a hissing sound when i turn the car off sounds like it could be coming from the compressor not sure though.

That's the high and low side pressure equalizing. Perfectly normal.

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ok then it is definitely the vacuum because the parking brake is like a limp well you know it falls down on its own all the time. so you think that has to do with the ac too very interesting and I thank you much for all the advice/info. As far as those other codes are they anything to worry about. I have 20 inch rims on the lac so i am sure thats why the cruise thingy is on or that control ride light is on. My last question would be is the vacuum line expensive to fix. I have had this car 2 months and have already replaced radiator, battery, thermostat, bought thermagasket for the cracked head gasket (worked like a charm), replaced all three brake lines, ac blower motor, and relay switch. I love this car but am starting to get sick of putting money into it lol

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I second a stuck mixer door. If you pull the glove compartment you can inspect the actuators as you cycle them.

Also I stress on this. Do not put anymore than 2.00 kbs R134A freon in the system. You do not want to overcharge the system.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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If all your dash lights come on for a second when you turn the key on, including the Air Bag light, and the Air Bag light doesn't come on all the time, then you are OK with the codes.

Usually a vacuum problem under the dash is just a vacuum line pulled off by someone working under the dash, or a kid poking around under there. Fixing these is free once you get to them.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I will look into the stuck mixer door. Thanks as for the air bag light it does stay on all the time and the dash always says repair air bag or something stupid like that but I just ignore it because I have replaced my steering wheel with a woodgrain wheel and I thought that was why that was happening.

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i dont know much about cars but its funny that these codes seem to be insignificant yet my check engine light flashes when I drive. In the book that came with the cadillac it says that my check engine light flashing means that something is wrong and to stop immediately but the car drives fine as if maybe the light is malfunctioning. Anyway I am pretty sure I need a tune up and hope that after I do one it will fix that problem. I am soooooo very thankful to everyone who has responded to my posts because like I said I love my caddy and dont know too much about it. When I get time I will update my profile and such but for now Thanks a lot

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There are three modes for the check engine light (the manual calls it the "multi-function indicator light" or MIL): off, on, and flashing. Flashing means that there is an urgent problem that can cause more repairs, such as a bad miss that can damage the catalytic converter, and that is what the manual is talking about. If it blinks once in a while that's an intermittent electrical problem or an intermittent fault detected by the system. I have never heard of a MIL problem that caused it to flash when there was no problem with the car.

If your wood grain steering wheel is compatible with your Cadillac then the air bag components should move over, or it will have its own, and when everything is connected up you will have no codes, and no air bag warning light. If the light started with the new steering wheel, go back to whoever installed the steering wheel and get them to fix the air bag problem. If not (the steering wheel, and the warning light, were there when you go the car, or the light came on after the steering wheel was installed), we can look up the troubleshooting procedure in the FSM for each OBD code.

Where there is a warning light, there is *always* and OBD code related to that warning light.

Your car has only three OBD codes. You should be able to get it to a no-codes, no-warning-lights condition quickly and hopefully with all DIY work and few or no parts.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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ok the air bag light did start with the new steering wheel because i had to take the air bag out not really concerned too much about it its just a light that i ignore but I will look into fixing it later. As for the check engine light it flashes the whole time I am driving it stops for a while every now and then but it starts right back flashing again. The car drives exactly the same whether the light is flashing or not. When the car ran hot the engine light would come on and then flash as the engine overheated. I put thermagasket in it which is a head gasket sealant and that came with a bleeder kit that i hooked up to the top radiator hose that allows the engine to "burp" so to speak. Make a long story short this fixed the overheating problem but not the check engine light. The check engine light stays on and flashes all the time. Those codes are the only 3 that I have so I am not sure why the light is doing that but I will check the codes again and I have a mechanic coming over either today or tomorrow I will relay all this info to him. Any other suggestions

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Your A/C system may be overcharged - if it had a full charge and you added additional refrigerant, it is now overcharged and will not cool properly.

Once you check the operation of the A/C actuators that control the mixer door, the next step would be to have a shop recover the refrigerant and then evacuate and recharge the system with 2.0 lbs of R-134a.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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ok i am going to have the freon level checked I just pulled my codes again and now have 7. The four extra ones are pc0300, pc1381, pc1571, pz2042. Can someon help me out with these codes

P0300 - Engine Misfire Detected

This is why the check engine light is flashing..

P1381 - Misfire Detected - No Communication with Brake Control Module

The PCM is expecting data from the Brake Control Module and isn't getting it...

P1572 - ASR Active Circuit Low Too Long

I think this is related to the brake pedal switch...

P2042 Engine Temp Sensor Circuit

I am not sure if this definition is correct...

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ok let me ask a stupid question. what do i do about the engine misfiring and can i drive it in the meantime or should i leave it parked

You need to figure out what is causing the misfire...

It could be a bad plug...

It could be a bad wire...

It could be a bad coil...

If it is a very bad miss, it can dump a really rich mixture into the exhaust and mess up the catalytic converter...

Personally, if it was mine, I would want to find and fix the problem before I drove it much more.

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I put thermagasket in it which is a head gasket sealant and that came with a bleeder kit that i hooked up to the top radiator hose that allows the engine to "burp" so to speak. Make a long story short this fixed the overheating problem but not the check engine light.

1. The engine already has a built in bleeder that continuously "burps" (purges) air from the cooling system.

2. Thermagasket is a temporary band aid. The overheating WILL return. Be prepared to deal with it again. There is only one way to fix a bad HG and it is not in a bottle.

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Ok quick update. I have my mechanic buddy at the house doing my tune up right now. He thinks the ac isnt working properly because there is a rectangle shape door missing right above the condensor that is allowing hot air from the motor to flow into the area where the condensor is. He thinks that this is the problem which I guess sounds good in theory but I think it is either the vacuum line because my parking brake doesn't pop out when put in drive or the stuck mixer door which I know is under the glove box but not sure exactly what that is. Can somebody reply to this asap with any suggestions?

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I think he's talking about the evaporator, not the condenser.

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Fabricate a new plate to cover the opening.

As far as the parking brake not releasing, check for vacuum at the solenoid, if there is vacuum, the solenoid is bad.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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As far as the parking brake not releasing, check for vacuum at the solenoid, if there is vacuum, the solenoid is bad.

Keep in mind that you should only have vacuum when the car is in gear, making this a two man job, one to hold his foot on the brake.

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ok the door that I was referring to is just some plastic piece that says remove for repair. Anyway doesnt matter not the problem. I got the tune up and that fixed the engine light flashing problem. My check engine light is not on any more. WooHoo. Now the only problem I am having is the ac will not blow cold it is blowing but not blowing cold. I checked the freon and the freon level is exactly where it is supposed to be. I checked up under the glove box trying to see if I could find that mixer door thingy someone had mentioned earlier but all I found was a bunch of wire harnesses all over the place and looks like there is a lot going on in there. The only other lights showing are my brake light (code said my brake module is no good), my airbag light(been on since I put woodgrain steering wheel in my caddy), and my traction control light (been on since I put 20 inch rims on). Not worried about any of these just want my ac to blow cold. Every day in Texas gets up to 95 plus degrees warm ac and leather seats is not cute any more can someone please help. My mechanic does not know what a stuck mixer door means and said he would research it and get back to me. ANY SUGGESTIONS?????

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