need to be "READY" to pass inspection

[winterset]

I had just started to drive to the NJ DMV to get my Deville inspected, when I got the P0135 message. I used to get that only when it was really cold out, and I had the car idling in the garage. My questions are:

how many successful ignition cycles do I need for the car to report "READY" at inspection? - I know the car needs to start cold & get to operating temperature for these to "count".

is there a way to tell if the OBD is "Ready"?

BTW, I love my 2 year old Optima battery. The car seems to never have a dead battery no matter how long it sits in the garage with my infrequent use (unlike the grief I used to have with lead batteries). Although this morning, it just had enough to crank. - I suspect the alt was struggling to charge the battery, and the O2 sensor wasn't getting the juice to heet up. - thus tripping the code.

THANKS

[Cadillac Jim]

If your battery voltage drops below 9 Volts when starting, the some modules will throw codes, and that didn't happen. The P0135 code isn't thrown until the car has had time to warm up a little, as has the HO2 sensor, but the voltage or waveform of the HO2 doesn't reflect the pulsations of exhaust gases going past it. If you've been getting this code once in a while for some time now, you have a tired HO2 sensor that should be replaced.

If you think that it may just have carbon on it or some such, you can take the car on a road trip and see if that clears it up. My thinking is that, ifyou've been seeing the P0135 code off and on for some time, you will continue to see it occasionally until you change the HO2 sensor. This particular HO2 sensor is hard to get to, so I would just have my mechanic change it, but what you do is up to you.

If all you want to do is to get an inspection, just clear all the codes and drive the car a time or two so that you don't get a "Not Ready" code at the inspection station. If the P0135 comes up again while you are doing this, then, well...

[KHE]

The P0135 code is for the heater element in the oxygen sensor. It will be set immediately upon starting the car if the heater in the O2S is not performing.

Why not replace the sensor and be done with the problem?

[winterset]

The P0135 code is for the heater element in the oxygen sensor. It will be set immediately upon starting the car if the heater in the O2S is not performing.

Why not replace the sensor and be done with the problem?

I rarely use the car, and I am absolutely determined to fix this, and my oil sensor myself. Unfortunately I am currently not well enough to tackle any type of repair job. I just wanted to keep the inspection going in the summer months, because the O2 sensor throws the code more on cold days. I'll drive the car a little next week, and take it in the following week.

Thanks for the info. - I'll put the battery charger on it a little, and use it to go to run errands on 5 different days.

If I can just get it inspected now, I'll have 2 years to fix it!!

[Ranger]

Setting OBDII rediness monitors

Cold Start.

1. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at start up. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

Idle.

2. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

Accelerate.

3. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

Hold Steady Speed.

4. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Decelerate.

5. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Accelerate.

6. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

Hold Steady Speed.

7. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

Decelerate.

8. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

[winterset]

Setting OBDII rediness monitors

Cold Start.

1. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at start up. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

Idle.

2. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

Accelerate.

3. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

Hold Steady Speed.

4. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Decelerate.

5. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Accelerate.

6. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

Hold Steady Speed.

7. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

Decelerate.

8. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Thanks Guys,

I drove the car only 3 times the last few days (keeping the above in mind), and drove it to NJ DMV this morning. It passed, and I don't need to get it inspected till Aug 2013. I really expect to have the O2 sensor fixed by then. - although I think I said that 2 years ago!!

[Cadillac Jim]

Don't off fixing the HO2 sensor again. Your gas mileage and your cat will thank you.

[BodybyFisher]

When I replaced a cat recently, I spoke to a cat manufacturer. They told me (as Jim aluded to above) that most cat trouble is the result of bad O2 sensors and they recommended changing them every three years needed or not to save your CAT. If you have an O2 sensor problem, fix it asap

[winterset]

When I replaced a cat recently, I spoke to a cat manufacturer. They told me (as Jim aluded to above) that most cat trouble is the result of bad O2 sensors and they recommended changing them every three years needed or not to save your CAT. If you have an O2 sensor problem, fix it asap

I searched caddyinfo, and google, and I just cannot find which O2 sensor to replace. I have "P0135". I remembered you all saying to replace it ASAP, and I am up to doing it.

BTW, I am definately going to replace with OEM, and renting the removal tool from advanced auto.

If someone can help me locate the O2, I would greatly appreciate it. I remember reading that it's location is tricky, as the banks are reversed or so. I plan on only spraying the old one with liquid wrench once I locate it.

[JimD]

I searched caddyinfo, and google, and I just cannot find which O2 sensor to replace. I have "P0135". I remembered you all saying to replace it ASAP, and I am up to doing it.

P0135 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1

Bank 1 is the firewall side of the engine. Bank 1 Sensor 1 is absolutely the most difficult O2 sensor to reach. The bank 1 sensor 1 is located in the firewall bank of cylinders exhaust manifold as close to the manifold junction of all four firewall side cylinders as possible. Which puts the sensor almost out of reach from the bottom.

But it is doable. Just not the most fun you will ever have on a Saturday.

[rockfangd]

boy you should feel lucky. try living in New York. It is ridiculous here. Can be very costly and extremely irritating

[Cadillac Jim]

The HO2 sensors that can affect cat life are the ones labeled Sensor 1 because they are the ones that control the mixture. If they get bad enough to affect the CAT the PCM will throw a code and the MIL will come on. There are two on the cat, at the input and the output, to monitor the cat efficiency.

[winterset]

The HO2 sensors that can affect cat life are the ones labeled Sensor 1 because they are the ones that control the mixture. If they get bad enough to affect the CAT the PCM will throw a code and the MIL will come on. There are two on the cat, at the input and the output, to monitor the cat efficiency.

Just purchased from ebay. New OEM with shipping $41.00 I should have it by the weekend, so I'll add this to my to-do list for Saturday.

[Cadillac Jim]

Your car has four HO2 sensors: the two at the four-into-one junctions of the exhaust manifolds, that control the mixture, and one on each end of the cat that measure cat efficiency. All are relatively easy to change, other than breaking loose the threads when first removing them, except the one on the rear manifold, which is a knuckle-buster.