rockfangd Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 I am going to have to change my blower motor soon and could use some insight on the replacement procedure. I already purchased the new motor with the shield but am not much looking forward to installing it. Reason why I am changing the motor is becausse the wires at the motor melted for some reason. It still worksbut I am sure not for long. Thanks GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 From the 1997 FSM, pages 1B-34 and 1B-35, we have this: BLOWER MOTOR Remove or Disconnect Negative battery cable. Cowl cross-car brace. Disconnect electrical connectors from ignition control module. Position cross-car harness out of way. Position the ignition control module assembly out of the way. Refer to Ignition Control Module in Engine Controls. Solenoid purge valve. Inertial pate from blower motor. Connector from blower motor. Blower motor screws. Blower motor. Install or Connect Remove the inertial plate for the new blower motor.Important: Leave blower motor in box to reduce the amount of handling of the blower motor. Blower motor. Inertial plate. Blower motor screws. Connector from blower motor. Solenoid purge valve. Reposition the ignition control module assembly. Refer to Ignition Control Module in Engine Controls. Reposition cross-car harness. Connect electrical connectors to ignition control module. Cowl cross-car brace. Negative battery cable. NOTE that the blower motor has been updated in recent years. Read the sheet that comes with the new blower motor and, if appropriate, modify these instructions accordingly. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Look at the connector closely. It most likely has damage from overheating. Look inside at the individual terminals. One or more may be discolored due to heat and high resistance. If so, the connector needs to be replaced. I believe that they make a replacement connector, as I put one on my '94 when I changed it's blower motor. Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted July 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 well on my motor te wires melted at the motor. but the plug is fine. Basically the factory plug plugs into the motor plug but has wires before it gets to the motor. what is the inertial plate? GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Keep in mind that step 3 of the reinstall procedure does not exist as there is no inertial plate on the replacement model. Here's how I did it. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/46611-97-deville-blower-motor-replacement.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted September 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 well I am going to do the motor next weekend, will post my results. The only thing I am worried about is the heater box around the motor crumbling GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted December 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 Well wish I had found the time to replace the blower motor because as I figured it went today. I opened my garage and heard a familiar noise but had never really heard it fro outside the car. The motor was running on high with no key in the ignition. Driving down the road it was randomly turning on and off even when in the off position. So I parked t in the garage with the motor disconnected till monday. It must have went today because my battery wasnt dead. But I had a funny feeling yesterday that smething wasnt right. motor seemed to start and stop till the engine warmed then it stayed on. Will post results monday. I also might add that the motor to me doesnt look to be original. I should post a picture of the original motor. It has 2 plugs. one at the top near the driver side. 3 pin main plug, and another plug that goes from the controller to the motor. The controller is on the motor case. I dont see 3 bolts in the center. Can someone possibly post a pic of the original motor? I did note that it is secured with 5 tiny bolts though GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 If it is mounted with 5 bolts, that's OEM. The redesigned version will only use 3 of those 5 bolt holes. OEM blower (It's standing on the squirrel cage) Redesigned replacement blower (back side is almost flat) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 go figure mine doesnt look like either. Maybe it was replaced before the new design came out? I will post a pic tomorrow. I definately dont have the 3 bolts in the middle either. Thanks for the pics. and mine has 2 plugs on the motor. one for the harness and the other goes from the controller on the motor case to the motor itself GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 well good news and bad news. The bad I couldnt get the second design motor in because the engine just wouldnt budge, I couldnt get the subframe bolts loose, and it was so close but after 2 hours of fighting with it I said the heck with it. I went to my local U pull it and bought an original off a 99 Deville for 20.00. The good news is it only took 30 mins to put everything back together with used motor and the motor works excellent. I have to say it looked almost new. I think I was impatient when I reconnected the battery though because one or more of the actuators in the dash keep clicking and moving. I dont think I gave them time to relearn the positions before I turned the heat on. I am going to re disconnect the battery tomorrow and try it again because all worked fine before I changed the motor. 2 things that are weird. in the pic you can see the melted wires I was referring to that go to the motor. The funny thing is that the motor itself worked fine but just wouldnt shut off. The other thing is out of all 3 designs I liked the one that was installed in the car that went bad. It was the easiest to remove and install. note the 3 studs in the pics. 3 10mm nuts and the plate pops right off. then just remove the motor and cage as one. It took me 20 mins to get the old motor out. GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted January 3, 2012 Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 Hmm, those pictures do not look like what I remember when I removed the OEM blower on my '97. When I installed the new blower I did not lower the subframe. I simply removed the torque strut on the drivers side and replaced it with a turnbuckle, then disconnected the other side and pulled the engine forward an inch or two to get a little more wiggle room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2012 I have done that before but my engine refused to budge. probably because all my lower mounts are recently replaced GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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