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Threw Some Codes

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On the way home from a late lunch with my fiance the caddy threw up the service engine soon light. While still going down the highway I accessed the DIC and got the following codes: PO22, PO36, PO56, PO70. The PO36 stayed current and the others immediately went into history. I've had the PO56 pop once in a great while and really pay little attention to it. The PO36 has been coming up now and then on very hard acceleration for the past month or two (had the canister off and cleaned 2 weeks ago).

The PO22 and PO70 are new and I looked them up. I guess what I'm asking is, other then cleaning the throttle body and recleaning the EGR canister is there anything else I should check?

By the way.... it was raining during the drive. Other then a slight stutter now and then she runs fine. Looking for some input.

-kg


"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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There could be an open or short in your wiring. Check the gray wire coming out of the TPS back to the PCM at first splice. If it is shorted it will cause the P022, P036, & P070. This is according to my manual. Good Luck.

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It very looks like intermittent open circuit for trottle position sensor signal. All 3 codes can be related to that. You just did cleaning the EGR, so

1. check if connector on EGR sits fine.

2. Clean codes

3. Try to notice when code P036 will appear. If it happened on a up hill or hard acceleration it points you to clean EGR again I guess.

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Ok today I drove around running errands and every time I started the car it would throw the same 4 codes. I probably made four stops (bank, grocery store, gas, etc) and each time the same thing. The PO36 stayed current while the other 3 codes went immediately into history when i checked the DIC each time. Whether I drove like an old man or hopped on it..... the same resulting codes. I checked the wires around the EGR looking for a bad connection or frayed wires but couldn't come up with anything.

The caddy goes in tomorrow (tuesday) for winter rims and tires. I'll pull the EGR canister and clean that again while the tires are being done. I'll have Dave (mech) check and see if he can see any loose connections too. Anything else I should look for? Thanks for the info so far guys. I appreciate it. :)

-kg


"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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When you pull off the EGR, check valve position. If it closed, press valve with the finger up to the end hard. It should go back easilly because of spring. If it sticks there, pour a little water with backing soda and move valve back and forward untill it moves fine and doesn't stick in open position. If it's not sticky, problem with the wires.

I cleaned EGR recently. The valve was very sticky and to make it work I hit it with a pensill repeatedly very fast. After couple min it became absolutely not sticky apparently and even sound of it changed.

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Update! Winter tires and rims on, recleaned (scraped) the EGR canister, and installed a new fuel filter. Start up is better (the tach isn't jumping) and the codes are gone. Hurray!

Ok now for the let down. I cleared all the codes and noticed that I have a few new current codes. They are: SO25, SO38, SO72, SO73.

Any advice on what could be causing these and what should be done would be appreciated. Thanks again. -kg

S025 .................................. Right Rear Damper Solenoid Valve Short to B+

S038 ................... Electronic Level Control Exhaust Valve Short to Ground/Open

S072 ................................................. Left Rear Accelerometer Fault

S073 ................................................ Right Rear Accelerometer Fault


"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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When you pull off the EGR, check valve position. If it closed, press valve with the finger up to the end hard. It should go back easilly because of spring. If it sticks there, pour a little water with backing soda and move valve back and forward untill it moves fine and doesn't stick in open position. If it's not sticky, problem with the wires.

I cleaned EGR recently. The valve was very sticky and to make it work I hit it with a pensill repeatedly very fast. After couple min it became absolutely not sticky apparently and even sound of it changed.

Oldgamer you were right on target with the dirty canister. It got clogged up in a relatively short time since the last cleaning. Just wanted to say thanks. :D

-kg

Now if only someone could shed some light on the new (SO) codes I have.


"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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S072 Left Rear Accelerometer Fault

S073 Right Rear Accelerometer Fault

I checked my 1997 FSM and there is only one accelerometer, a lateral accelerometer under the driver's seat. The use of two accelerometers has been changed to an accelerometer and a yaw rate sensor in the 1997 model year. Someone with a 1993 FSM needs to step up and look at the DTCs or schematics for the 1993 model year.

The problem is probably with a loose connector, either on the accelerometer, a major wiring harness connector, or on the EBTCM. To get specific information for your car, we need someone with a 1993 FSM to step in.


CTS-V_Dashboard.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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