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Engine Stalls at a Stop


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Hi All,

Im a newbe here and this is my first post.

Just bought my first Caddy :D I love this car and espeacially love the 275 HP North Star. I am planning on stuffing one in an old pick up I have.

But any way, Im having an issue with it stalling at stop signs and lights. When I bought the car it had an EGR code. Insuficiant flow. I cleaned out the valve and found that the passage at the throtle body was closed off with carbon. Cleaned it out. But this did not solve the problem.

I didn't notice this till yesterday. The temp is rising a little when stopped as well. I dont know what to make of this. No more codes will set. Except for one time when it got really hot for some reason and then it went away. They were EGR codes p0405 and p1404. I did end up reluctantly replacing the EGR valve with no availe.

I dont think its a head gasket. I smell no antifreeze and I do not see it in the oil or vs versa. Also the the temp gauge is kinda jumpy if you will. It will be stationary and then jump one way or another. (Sticky Thermostat???) I have noticed on here the coolant makes a diference. It has GREEN coolant. could this be the issue and why does it matter. Could some one shed some light on this for me.

So besides the coolant system is there any thing else that could cause an issue like this. Lean condition?? The problem is consistant but the severety is not. It seems if it were head gasket related it would be a consistant problem and just get progressivly worse. But I could be wrong.

Any input would be greatly aprieciated. Thanks

Edit: I figured out how to use the onboard code puller. That is a cool feature!!!

There are many cades there that my craptron did not detect. The P codes are p1599 and a p1654. There not much help.

There are a whole bunch of other codes. The car needs front struts so many are related to this, plus I have the P0741 (I dont plan on fixing this so I covered the SES light LOL) Should I just reset all the codes????

Edited by GNM
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I dont think its a head gasket. I smell no antifreeze and I do not see it in the oil or vs versa.

IF it's a HG you won't smell anti-freeze. If you smell it, it's an external leak, not a HG. Northstars will rarely ever pout coolant in the oil when a HG fails so don't use either of these as an indicator. Are you using coolant?

Green coolant will have no affect on it. Just be sure to change it every 2 years.

Might try cleaning the TB. That might solve your stalling problem.

It would be a big help if you'd post the code definitions along with the codes. No one has them memorized.

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Hi Ranger,

As far as the coolant goes, not a drop.

Im on the road working and I decided to take this car. Im down in TN and I live in MI. So I wont be able to pull the TB and give it a good cleanig till I get home. Will replace all maintenance parts as well.

Here are all the codes with the definitions. I just have a feeling there is an electrical issue or the PCM is going bad on me.

P0405:sensor circuit low voltage

P1404:closed position performance

U1064:Loss of Communications with DIM (this may have happend when I pulled the cluster out to cover the SES light)

P1654:Please check DTC Memory of control panel ECU

B1009:EEPROM Checksum Error

The rest of the codes are for suspension. I did not pull them I didnt think they were relivant.

thanks

EDIT: BTW, I will creat another thread for this later. But I have a source where I can get about five of 4.6 NS's for 200 bucks a pop. They are in unkown condition though. What I was wondering is can I heally coil the threads in the block for the head bolts. I hear the head bolts pull the threads out of the block which causes the HG problems. I'm planning on building a North Star for my truck and will need the extra strength.

Edited by GNM
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Hi Roger,

As far as the coolant goes, not a drop.

Im on the road working and I decided to take this car. Im down in TN and I live in MI. So I wont be able to pull the TB and give it a good cleanig till I get home. Will replace all maintenance parts as well.

Here are all the codes with the definitions. I just have a feeling there is an electrical issue or the PCM is going bad on me.

P0405:sensor circuit low voltage

P1404:closed position performance

U1064:Loss of Communications with DIM (this may have happend when I pulled the cluster out to cover the SES light)

P1654:Please check DTC Memory of control panel ECU

B1009:EEPROM Checksum Error

The rest of the codes are for suspension. I did not pull them I didnt think they were relivant.

thanks

EDIT: BTW, I will creat another thread for this later. But I have a source where I can get about five of 4.6 NS's for 200 bucks a pop. They are in unkown condition though. What I was wondering is can I heally coil the threads in the block for the head bolts. I hear the head bolts pull the threads out of the block which causes the HG problems. I'm planning on building a North Star for my truck and will need the extra strength.

The first two codes are EGR-related.

Who's Roger? We only recognize Ranger! :)

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Sorry about that!! Error corected. Yesterday was a very long day as was today.

Yeah those EGR Codes. There is nothing wrong the EGR circut. This is another reason why I think there is an issue with the electrical.

Never heard of a Time Sert. I will research.

Thanks

Edited by GNM
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WOW!!!! they are very proud of those. Not going happen. Ill figure out another way, even if I have to make my own. Can the through holes in the heads be reamed out for larger bolts. That would be a more economical fix.

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I wont be able to pull the TB and give it a good cleanig till I get home.

No need to pull the TB. It can be cleaned on the engine.

Can the through holes in the heads be reamed out for larger bolts.

No idea. The only repairs I am aware of are Timesert, Studs from http://www.northstarperformance.com or Norm's NS300L inserts http://huhnsolutions.com/.

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The NS300l kits look pretty nice. I could not find pricing though. But 500 bucks for the timeserts. Yikes!!!! I could buy a whole lot of HP for a SB Chevy for that kind of money. But for my Caddy though, I think I would do anything to save her. This is my first one and I never thought Id ever own one. I love my car. I had an 87 IROC. This car reminds me a lot of this except it has a whole lot more buttons. LOL

But I really want to transplant a North Star. If I can find a fix thats economical for the head bolts. This would make a great motor. Many pros to it. For one Ill be starting out with 300 hp instead of 180 that a stock chevy would produce. More can be added to the north star very easily with a cam kit, headers and larger injectors. A 60* 700R4 will bolt right up to the north star with minor modifications and I bet it will still get great gas milage in a big ol Chevy truck. This is the biggest reason I desire the NS along with reliabilty. Also it will be a lot of fun to show off.

Edit: I found them on Ebay. There still a little high for me. I could buy the materials taps and dies to make them myself. Not hard to do either. Ill post a how too thread for this if it does not already exist. I have to research the materials and look at a possible solution for the home user. So these could be made in the garage. But for now Im thinking a lathe is required.

Edited by GNM
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@ Ranger,

Could you be a little more specific of what excactly needs to be cleaned. All I see is the EGR port. I dont understand how anything else could get carboned up other that this port. I have already cleaned this port.

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OK, I cleaned the IAC, it was a little gunked up. I think it may have helped, but it did not fix the problem. It still stalled out at idle when stopped a few times.

I changed out the thermostat and that did nothing.

I then changed out the fuel filter, not sure if this hepled or not. It was well over do for a change any way.

Then I changed the plugs out. The plugs were white and looked to me like the gap was too large. After I did this the problem is almost gone. I can let it sit and idle for 15 min. and the temp gauge sits at 12 oclock. (I could not do this before)Also it has not stalled out since this either. However, when I took it for a ride a few times it rose to the next mark (at stops) and then it was able to recover with out moving down the road. Also, it doesn't do this every time, I have stopped and let it sit for 5 min with out the needle moving at all. So I dont know if this is normal or not. I hope its fixxed. One thing is for sure it is definatly not a HG. From what the guy told me that I bought it from the motor is a reman, so the head bolts should be corrected.

If it comes back Im going to change out the fan relays. The fans seem to be working but it may be so intermitent Im just not catching it. I did swap the fan relays with two others.

Edited by GNM
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Ah ha! Thank you. :D

Im wondering now if the over heating has any thing to do with the temp sender being a little slow. When I changed the plugs Im wondering if I disturbed the wireing for it and now its working a little better. Also there was a ground under the coil pack plate, that I cleaned and coated with antisize before reasembly. Maybe this helped it.

Also shouldnt the fans stay on when the engine turns off? They will only run if the engine is turning. If the engine is off but the key is on they do not run.

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OK I think I have it pinned down....well sort of. The high speed fan is not kicking on when it is suposed too. The engine temp sometimes gets upwards of 230 before they kick on.

Ive replaced one relay and swapped the other one out with the accesory relay. Still did not fix the problem. I then change out the ETC. That did not work. What is the deal here what am I missing. I think all the other stuff I change out did help matters but the over heating problem is still there.

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OK I think I have it pinned down....well sort of. The high speed fan is not kicking on when it is suposed too. The engine temp sometimes gets upwards of 230 before they kick on.

That sounds normal to me.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Well I thought I had it under controll. After I changed the filter and plugs the symtoms have changed a bit and the stalling has gone away. It hasnt stalled on me yet. But the temp gauge is still giving me the finger off and on. This is driving me nuts. When I started out this morning it ran fine for about an half hour (it ran around 200f). Then it started. I went and bought a craftsman scan tool. Im not to happy with this tool either. It does not show the EGR in the live data nor does it show the fans switching on or off. But I could at least monitor the ECT sensor. The gauge does follow it prety close. So that is not it. The fans are working, But only the left side seems to run at high speed. Also I thought I read somewhere that if the AC is on that the fans should run at high speed. They dont. Also all the relays get hot after a while. Is this normal?

Is there any thing I should look at in the live data that may reveil the problem?

One thing I noticed today was the fuel pump was load at one point today. I was sitting in a parking lot when I noticed it. So I put in drive and proceeded out the parking lot and it quieted down. So I bought presure test kit and at idle it was at 43psi. However, the temp was correcting it self during this check. Tomarow, Im going to get some hose and fittings to make an extension so I can put it up on the wind shield. Also Im going to take to a shop and have them flush that green stuff out of the radiator and replace it with the Dexcool.

I know I should probably start a new thread on this. The stalling is corrected now.

Edited by GNM
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Ran it with the gauge today and it ran pretty steady at around 40 psi. There was no change in presure as it heated up and cooled down. So this is not it. Im going to take it to cadilac tomarow. I can't figure this thing out!!!

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Its the Head Gasket :wipetears

It got pretty bad in North Carolina in that 105 heat going up and down hills. I found a used motor with 90,000 on it. Fortunatly I know someone that lives near by. His neighbor owns a shop and will do the swap as a side job. Probably looking at $1400.00 for every thing.

Edited by GNM
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Its the Head Gasket :wipetears

It got pretty bad in North Carolina in that 105 heat going up and down hills. I found a used motor with 90,000 on it. Fortunatly I know someone that lives near by. His neighbor owns a shop and will do the swap as a side job. Probably looking at $1400.00 for every thing.

Not trying to rain on your parade...

But how do you know the used engine does not have the same problem as the one you have now ??

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Yup! excactly! I diceded that I am kicking a dead horse here. The car isn't worth sticking this much money into. If I could do it myself and I had the time it would be a diferent story. I would pull the motor and tear it down and if I could get away with it I would just slap a rebuild kit in it and install the time serts. But the thing is down in NC. So this complicates things. I may try and trade it in on a used car down there, if it turns out they wont take it. I may get a vehical down there any way and get a car dolly and bring her home.

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Have you checked if the purge line is clogged? - it's connected to the tank with the rad cap on it. From what I understand, a little air can escape into the coolant, and the purge tank releases it, and allows the system to pull in coolant. if there's too much air in the system, the water pump cannot circulate the coolant, and the block & heads expand - allowing more exhaust gases into the coolant causing temp spikes & overheating.

I suspected HG when you mentioned your plugs were white. probably cyl#1 - pass side against firewall.

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Yeah I checked all the hoses for clogs. I took it to the dealer and had them check for exhaust gas in the coolant. It was there. As soon as I told them what was going on, they just automaticaly said HG. I hate when poeple do that. Trouble shoot it first just dont tell me HG. There are so many things that could cause these symtoms.

But unfortunatly it is a HG problem.

I could not come up with the money to buy another car. So I have no choice but to fix it. Im getting a car dolly and renting a GMC Yukon and im going to tow her home. Im thinking of haveing a shop down the road from my house drop the motor out for me and Ill take it home slap a full rebuild kit in it. Im still planning on making my own inserts. Ill will try and post a vid on a new thread of how I plan on making these with out a lathe. Im thinking I can make a fixture to drill out some threaded rod and tap it.

Thanks for all your help guys. There will be more to come. :)

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Yeah I checked all the hoses for clogs. I took it to the dealer and had them check for exhaust gas in the coolant. It was there. As soon as I told them what was going on, they just automaticaly said HG. I hate when poeple do that. Trouble shoot it first just dont tell me HG. There are so many things that could cause these symtoms.

But unfortunatly it is a HG problem.

I could not come up with the money to buy another car. So I have no choice but to fix it. Im getting a car dolly and renting a GMC Yukon and im going to tow her home. Im thinking of haveing a shop down the road from my house drop the motor out for me and Ill take it home slap a full rebuild kit in it. Im still planning on making my own inserts. Ill will try and post a vid on a new thread of how I plan on making these with out a lathe. Im thinking I can make a fixture to drill out some threaded rod and tap it.

Thanks for all your help guys. There will be more to come. :)

Sorry to hear you bought a car with known (to the previous owner) HG problem. The repair is not a cake walk because you have to take the engine out , fix it and put back. KHE managed to do the job without removing the engine, but that is KHE. We have a Hall of Fame for members who did HG repair themselves. You are about to enter that hall as well.

Despite I like very much people who do things they own way, this is probably one of those cases when you should follow the recommendations of those who have done the job. Chances to ruin the engine, or have it repaired again in a couple of thousand miles are very high.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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No way would I try to reinvent the wheel by designing my own studs or 'inserts'.

You would be best to find a timesert kit and buy the timeserts

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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