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STRIPES?


eldoman95

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what does everyone think of puttin pinstripes on my car, the eldawg... what will happen if i dont like it, will it damage my new paint to take it off? any sugestions?

im looking at a double white pinstripe. but i think that tan might be better on a maroon car with a beige interior. what do you think?

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You can buy pin stripe tape at most auto parts stores. Try it, if you like it then you can remove it and have them painted on. If not, remove it and no harm done.

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why wouldnt i just leave the vinel ones on? im thinking semi-long term, maybe like 1 year.

No reason not to leave the taped ones on if that's what you want. I just thought you were talking about painted stripes and this would be a good way to see if you like them first. I don't think they will damage the paint when you take them off if that is what you were talking about.

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Mine pin stripes are painted gold ones then at the rear it has a hand painted design around the gold embloms......I think it adds alot of glass to the rather plain white paint job of my car....but it all comes together with vogues and clothtop.

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You might want to wait for a couple of months after painting before adding stick on stripes if you may remove them later. Seems they would leave a mark in fresh paint. I'm not sure of that but it is a question you may want to ask.

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You're supposed to wait at least 90 days before putting ANYTHING on freash paint, including wax and stickers. The reason is to let all of the reducers evaporate out of the paint and make sure it has reached its full hardness. If you cover it with wax or stickers, the paint can get "solvent pop", which is a buildup of vapor in the clearcoat that causes it to flake off.

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You're supposed to wait at least 90 days before putting ANYTHING on freash paint, including wax and stickers. The reason is to let all of the reducers evaporate out of the paint and make sure it has reached its full hardness. If you cover it with wax or stickers, the paint can get "solvent pop", which is a buildup of vapor in the clearcoat that causes it to flake off.

I think that may be a leftover rule from the days of laquer paints. Most bodyshops these days bake the finish in the spray booth after paint application. When the finish is baked on, you can wax/polish the finish without waiting a set period of time.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Even a baked finish has to breathe for a month or so before being waxed. Factory finished can be waxed or striped immediately because they are baked at a high temp... the factory doesn't have to worry about plastic or rubber pieces melting because the car is painted when bare. Body shops "bake" finishes at low temps, usually 120-160 degrees depending on the equipment and the clearcoat used... 180 is the maximum allowed baking temp. OEM finishes are baked at 250 to 400 degrees, depending on the company.

A regular finish with a medium reducer has to breathe for 90 days to be safe. A baked paint needs 30 days. The data sheets that come with the paint tell all the details of paint care requirements, so if you use a body shop have them give you copies of the data sheet for the clear.

It's not something that will always show up instantly. Sometimes the paint will last years, then the clearcoat will flake off.

You can use a hand glaze with no wax on new paint.

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Hmmm.... The best body shop in my area bakes the paint finish and then polishes/waxes the finish afterword. I had them touch up my old Park Avenue and when I picked the car up, they were waxing it. I asked him about that and he said with the 2-part urethane finishes that are baked, you can treat the paint like you would an old finish.

It's been about 7 years and the paint work that he did still looks good.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Maybe he uses a synthetic glaze/wax instead of a true wax with carnauba.

Or maybe he bakes the finish long enough to fully evaporate the reducer.

If the paint shop chooses to wax immediately, they probably (hopefully) know what they're doing, but when choosing to DIY, it's best to wait, unless you specifically know what the paint's data sheet says, and what type of reducer was used, and how it was cured, and... you get the idea. ;)

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