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Mysterious clunk


adallak

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The RWD cars use U-joints so there are no CV joints or CV shafts. The hub bearings are tapered roller bearings and a separate reluctor ring on the brake rotor for the ABS system - completely different from a FWD application. From the description of the noise, I wouldn't think those components are causing the issue.

When u-joints are bad, they seem to make a loud clunk when shifting from reverse to drive.

The outboard brake pads on the RWD cars need to be "clinched" so they do not rattle. A chisel is placed between the rotor and the pad and the tabs are driven toward the caliper with a punch and hammer. That is the procedure in the shop manual but I have found that it is difficult to get them tight enough. I bend the tabs before installing the pads in order to obtain a tight fit. It is possible the issue is the outboard pads but I'd think the brakes would squeal vs. clunk with loose pads.

Thanks Kevin. There is no loud clunk when switching from reverse to drive.

The caliper bolt required a 3/8" hex wrench which I did not have. Bending the tabs on the caliper did not look like a good idea to me, so I will wait till I get a wrench to adjust the tabs off the caliper. Here is a video of the loose outer front brake pad. >http://www.youtube.c...h?v=e8p4KbOHOAo

You bend the tabs on the outer brake pad, not the caliper. One of the tabs is visible by your thumb in the video. I use some large channel locks and adjust the tabs on the brake pad so the pad is tight when snapped into the caliper.

I did mean the two tabs on the pads. I meant taking the pad off the caliper to make adjustments. I have shimmed the pads with thick paper clips and the clunk is reduced by some 80%.

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Its surprising, kind of funny and sad how many people dont know what a fleetwood is :):( (RWD)

Most everything on this board is FWD related so I guess its odd to most.

Anyway, also consider this. Most every fwd car that I have fixed for bad front wheel bearings/hub it makes a constant clicking tapping clunking while driving. But with my fleetwood it was every block there is some clunking, then every couple seconds, then every 5 seconds, it was very random and nothing constant about it. It didnt happen more going fast or slow, just every few seconds or longer, or after hitting bumps. So consider that before you rule out wheel bearings.

But definately try the brake pad. Then if needed wheel bearings and a seal, the good ones, are only about $25-$30 per corner.

If its the rear wheel bearing, driving on it for long wont be too bad but should be fixed soon. When bad enough, the axle fluid can leak out the end of the axle, Ive seen that on a fleetwood. But there are axle saver bearings if your axle gets wore down.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Its surprising, kind of funny and sad how many people dont know what a fleetwood is :):( (RWD)

Most everything on this board is FWD related so I guess its odd to most.

Anyway, also consider this. Most every fwd car that I have fixed for bad front wheel bearings/hub it makes a constant clicking tapping clunking while driving. But with my fleetwood it was every block there is some clunking, then every couple seconds, then every 5 seconds, it was very random and nothing constant about it. It didnt happen more going fast or slow, just every few seconds or longer, or after hitting bumps. So consider that before you rule out wheel bearings.

But definately try the brake pad. Then if needed wheel bearings and a seal, the good ones, are only about $25-$30 per corner.

If its the rear wheel bearing, driving on it for long wont be too bad but should be fixed soon. When bad enough, the axle fluid can leak out the end of the axle, Ive seen that on a fleetwood. But there are axle saver bearings if your axle gets wore down.

Good points. I am learning the RWD stuff everyday. The way I learn is the same - when something goes wrong! Funny, I was sure people will share their FWD experience because this forum is pretty much Northstar forum to me, so warned that Fleetwoods are RWD in my original post.

As I said, the clunk is definitely reduced. I will likely leave it alone till next brake work (the pads are 1/4" thick, so probably I will replace them and do whatever is necessary in some 8,000-10,000 miles.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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It wouldn't take much to clinch the tabs on the outboard pads and be done with it. When it comes time to replace the brake pads, I have found that on those cars, aftermarket brake pads will squeal. It is always the inboard pad where it contacts the piston. A set of GM pads cured the squealing problem.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Just for the record, my 1969 Sedan DeVille (RWD of course) had double Cardan CV joints at both ends of the driveshaft as well as a center joint (and support bearing) of the same type. This design was likely carried forward for several years of RWD Caddys. Many inspections of this entire assembly while still on the car never revealed any signs of play or wear typically seen in common universal joints. My recomendation at this point would be to remove the entire driveshaft assembly, center support included, and take it to the oldest driveshaft repair shop in your area, you know, the guys with experience in such items, and have them evaluate it. If you are lucky, they might have some parts lying around in the shop. Be sure to MARK EVERYTHING so it can be reinstalled in the EXACT SAME way it comes out of the car....timing is critical on this assembly.

Now, I'm really not trying to be funny with this recomendation, I'm really serious. I tried for years to find my driveline noise and never did locate it or repair it. I finally made enough money to buy my 1984 Calias Sedan and left my problems behind. The driveline assembly on these cars is much more complicated than the common u-joint types that we typically encountered on regular cars back then. The FACT that you cannot tell exactly where the noise is coming from is a BIG clue for me.

BTW, how did you eventually fix your rear drum brakes?

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Its surprising, kind of funny and sad how many people dont know what a fleetwood is :):( (RWD)

Most everything on this board is FWD related so I guess its odd to most.

Anyway, also consider this. Most every fwd car that I have fixed for bad front wheel bearings/hub it makes a constant clicking tapping clunking while driving. But with my fleetwood it was every block there is some clunking, then every couple seconds, then every 5 seconds, it was very random and nothing constant about it. It didnt happen more going fast or slow, just every few seconds or longer, or after hitting bumps. So consider that before you rule out wheel bearings.

But definately try the brake pad. Then if needed wheel bearings and a seal, the good ones, are only about $25-$30 per corner.

If its the rear wheel bearing, driving on it for long wont be too bad but should be fixed soon. When bad enough, the axle fluid can leak out the end of the axle, Ive seen that on a fleetwood. But there are axle saver bearings if your axle gets wore down.

Good points. I am learning the RWD stuff everyday. The way I learn is the same - when something goes wrong! Funny, I was sure people will share their FWD experience because this forum is pretty much Northstar forum to me, so warned that Fleetwoods are RWD in my original post.

As I said, the clunk is definitely reduced. I will likely leave it alone till next brake work (the pads are 1/4" thick, so probably I will replace them and do whatever is necessary in some 8,000-10,000 miles.

your on the impala ss forum correct? under the name huff? I thought i seen the same avatar of the gold fleetwood. I get tons more information there. Since its a shared chevy motor and RWD platform that forum is much more suited to handle fleetwood issues than this board.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Just for the record, my 1969 Sedan DeVille (RWD of course) had double Cardan CV joints at both ends of the driveshaft as well as a center joint (and support bearing) of the same type. This design was likely carried forward for several years of RWD Caddys. Many inspections of this entire assembly while still on the car never revealed any signs of play or wear typically seen in common universal joints. My recomendation at this point would be to remove the entire driveshaft assembly, center support included, and take it to the oldest driveshaft repair shop in your area, you know, the guys with experience in such items, and have them evaluate it. If you are lucky, they might have some parts lying around in the shop. Be sure to MARK EVERYTHING so it can be reinstalled in the EXACT SAME way it comes out of the car....timing is critical on this assembly.

Now, I'm really not trying to be funny with this recomendation, I'm really serious. I tried for years to find my driveline noise and never did locate it or repair it. I finally made enough money to buy my 1984 Calias Sedan and left my problems behind. The driveline assembly on these cars is much more complicated than the common u-joint types that we typically encountered on regular cars back then. The FACT that you cannot tell exactly where the noise is coming from is a BIG clue for me.

BTW, how did you eventually fix your rear drum brakes?

JohnyG,

Thank you for the reply and remembering my rear brakes! They are fine. Sometimes it is better to follow the common sense than the FSM.

As for current clunks, I am pretty sure that most of them come from a loose inner pad of front brakes. You can see in the video HOW loose it is. If it is something more involved... Well, my policy is very simple - if there is something I cannot fix myself, I will rather dump the car than mess with shops.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Its surprising, kind of funny and sad how many people dont know what a fleetwood is :):( (RWD)

Most everything on this board is FWD related so I guess its odd to most.

Anyway, also consider this. Most every fwd car that I have fixed for bad front wheel bearings/hub it makes a constant clicking tapping clunking while driving. But with my fleetwood it was every block there is some clunking, then every couple seconds, then every 5 seconds, it was very random and nothing constant about it. It didnt happen more going fast or slow, just every few seconds or longer, or after hitting bumps. So consider that before you rule out wheel bearings.

But definately try the brake pad. Then if needed wheel bearings and a seal, the good ones, are only about $25-$30 per corner.

If its the rear wheel bearing, driving on it for long wont be too bad but should be fixed soon. When bad enough, the axle fluid can leak out the end of the axle, Ive seen that on a fleetwood. But there are axle saver bearings if your axle gets wore down.

Good points. I am learning the RWD stuff everyday. The way I learn is the same - when something goes wrong! Funny, I was sure people will share their FWD experience because this forum is pretty much Northstar forum to me, so warned that Fleetwoods are RWD in my original post.

As I said, the clunk is definitely reduced. I will likely leave it alone till next brake work (the pads are 1/4" thick, so probably I will replace them and do whatever is necessary in some 8,000-10,000 miles.

your on the impala ss forum correct? under the name huff? I thought i seen the same avatar of the gold fleetwood. I get tons more information there. Since its a shared chevy motor and RWD platform that forum is much more suited to handle fleetwood issues than this board.

Yes, I am on Impala SS forum as well. It is actually a good thing that 1994-1996 Fleetwoods shared the powertrain with several other GM makes. Tons of information based on shared experience. Yep, my avatar used to be my gold/beige Brougham, now I use the same avatar for all the forums I participate including one for fountain pen enthusiasts. lol

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It wouldn't take much to clinch the tabs on the outboard pads and be done with it. When it comes time to replace the brake pads, I have found that on those cars, aftermarket brake pads will squeal. It is always the inboard pad where it contacts the piston. A set of GM pads cured the squealing problem.

By the way, if I bend the tabs radially, there still will be a lot of play in tangential direction. So, it looks like the tabs should be bent sideways as well. Why would not they make the pads right from the beginning? Trying to match different calipers?

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Its surprising, kind of funny and sad how many people dont know what a fleetwood is :):( (RWD)

Most everything on this board is FWD related so I guess its odd to most.

Anyway, also consider this. Most every fwd car that I have fixed for bad front wheel bearings/hub it makes a constant clicking tapping clunking while driving. But with my fleetwood it was every block there is some clunking, then every couple seconds, then every 5 seconds, it was very random and nothing constant about it. It didnt happen more going fast or slow, just every few seconds or longer, or after hitting bumps. So consider that before you rule out wheel bearings.

But definately try the brake pad. Then if needed wheel bearings and a seal, the good ones, are only about $25-$30 per corner.

If its the rear wheel bearing, driving on it for long wont be too bad but should be fixed soon. When bad enough, the axle fluid can leak out the end of the axle, Ive seen that on a fleetwood. But there are axle saver bearings if your axle gets wore down.

Good points. I am learning the RWD stuff everyday. The way I learn is the same - when something goes wrong! Funny, I was sure people will share their FWD experience because this forum is pretty much Northstar forum to me, so warned that Fleetwoods are RWD in my original post.

As I said, the clunk is definitely reduced. I will likely leave it alone till next brake work (the pads are 1/4" thick, so probably I will replace them and do whatever is necessary in some 8,000-10,000 miles.

your on the impala ss forum correct? under the name huff? I thought i seen the same avatar of the gold fleetwood. I get tons more information there. Since its a shared chevy motor and RWD platform that forum is much more suited to handle fleetwood issues than this board.

Yes, I am on Impala SS forum as well. It is actually a good thing that 1994-1996 Fleetwoods shared the powertrain with several other GM makes. Tons of information based on shared experience. Yep, my avatar used to be my gold/beige Brougham, now I use the same avatar for all the forums I participate including one for fountain pen enthusiasts. lol

after owning 2 northstars and the awful HT4100, Ive found it best for me and my situation that I now have 2 caddys both with chevy 350 motors. I know I will probably be bashed on this site for saying, but I like to say the best caddy is one with a chevy motor :) My wifes 05 Buick Rainier also shares the inline 6 chevy motor that was used in trailblazers envoys etc etc. So we have a family of non chevy cars, but all with chevy motors :) The wider range of use is helpful when repairing and the fact that in my opinion cadillac has more then once tried to be a little too innovative in their motor designs instead of sticking with tried and true methods makes the chevy motors more desirable to me.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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after owning 2 northstars and the awful HT4100, Ive found it best for me and my situation that I now have 2 caddys both with chevy 350 motors. I know I will probably be bashed on this site for saying, but I like to say the best caddy is one with a chevy motor :) My wifes 05 Buick Rainier also shares the inline 6 chevy motor that was used in trailblazers envoys etc etc. So we have a family of non chevy cars, but all with chevy motors :) The wider range of use is helpful when repairing and the fact that in my opinion cadillac has more then once tried to be a little too innovative in their motor designs instead of sticking with tried and true methods makes the chevy motors more desirable to me.

Check your Fleetwood's exhaust manifold bolts for looseness/missing and vacuum in Optispark vent harness! The latter should build up in a minute or so to around 19" Hg. :)

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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after owning 2 northstars and the awful HT4100, Ive found it best for me and my situation that I now have 2 caddys both with chevy 350 motors. I know I will probably be bashed on this site for saying, but I like to say the best caddy is one with a chevy motor :) My wifes 05 Buick Rainier also shares the inline 6 chevy motor that was used in trailblazers envoys etc etc. So we have a family of non chevy cars, but all with chevy motors :) The wider range of use is helpful when repairing and the fact that in my opinion cadillac has more then once tried to be a little too innovative in their motor designs instead of sticking with tried and true methods makes the chevy motors more desirable to me.

Check your Fleetwood's exhaust manifold bolts for looseness/missing and vacuum in Optispark vent harness! The latter should build up in a minute or so to around 19" Hg. :)

yep i stay up on that stuff :) Back bolts come loose every month or 2. The gaskets need changed but I dread breaking bolts off in order to get the manifolds off :(

So far 125k miles on original opti so I have plans and money set aside for when it goes. Ive done the fuel pump and sending unit, oil pan gasket and filter adapter, wheel bearings, shocks, o2s, many other sensors, plugs n wires, new exhaust, so pretty much only thing left is that opti and water pump :unsure:

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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after owning 2 northstars and the awful HT4100, Ive found it best for me and my situation that I now have 2 caddys both with chevy 350 motors. I know I will probably be bashed on this site for saying, but I like to say the best caddy is one with a chevy motor :) My wifes 05 Buick Rainier also shares the inline 6 chevy motor that was used in trailblazers envoys etc etc. So we have a family of non chevy cars, but all with chevy motors :) The wider range of use is helpful when repairing and the fact that in my opinion cadillac has more then once tried to be a little too innovative in their motor designs instead of sticking with tried and true methods makes the chevy motors more desirable to me.

Check your Fleetwood's exhaust manifold bolts for looseness/missing and vacuum in Optispark vent harness! The latter should build up in a minute or so to around 19" Hg. :)

yep i stay up on that stuff :) Back bolts come loose every month or 2. The gaskets need changed but I dread breaking bolts off in order to get the manifolds off :(

So far 125k miles on original opti so I have plans and money set aside for when it goes. Ive done the fuel pump and sending unit, oil pan gasket and filter adapter, wheel bearings, shocks, o2s, many other sensors, plugs n wires, new exhaust, so pretty much only thing left is that opti and water pump :unsure:

I am planning to upgrade exhaust manifold bolts to grade 8. Let me know if you need 3/8"-16 x 1.500" bolts, I can send you some when get them from McMaster & Karr. They come in 25 pcs packages. I do not need that much.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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after owning 2 northstars and the awful HT4100, Ive found it best for me and my situation that I now have 2 caddys both with chevy 350 motors. I know I will probably be bashed on this site for saying, but I like to say the best caddy is one with a chevy motor :) My wifes 05 Buick Rainier also shares the inline 6 chevy motor that was used in trailblazers envoys etc etc. So we have a family of non chevy cars, but all with chevy motors :) The wider range of use is helpful when repairing and the fact that in my opinion cadillac has more then once tried to be a little too innovative in their motor designs instead of sticking with tried and true methods makes the chevy motors more desirable to me.

Check your Fleetwood's exhaust manifold bolts for looseness/missing and vacuum in Optispark vent harness! The latter should build up in a minute or so to around 19" Hg. :)

yep i stay up on that stuff :) Back bolts come loose every month or 2. The gaskets need changed but I dread breaking bolts off in order to get the manifolds off :(

So far 125k miles on original opti so I have plans and money set aside for when it goes. Ive done the fuel pump and sending unit, oil pan gasket and filter adapter, wheel bearings, shocks, o2s, many other sensors, plugs n wires, new exhaust, so pretty much only thing left is that opti and water pump :unsure:

I am planning to upgrade exhaust manifold bolts to grade 8. Let me know if you need 3/8"-16 x 1.500" bolts, I can send you some when get them from McMaster & Karr. They come in 25 pcs packages. I do not need that much.

wow, definately will take you up on that. I have a friend with a fleetwood we just fixed up and his doesnt even have a back bolt on the driver side! His is a 94 base with 110k miles bought for $1300 perfect cosmetic condition. We changed the opti, opti harness, coil, ignition module and fuel pump and its a perfectly good car!

So yea let me know the costs and how many are available and well do that. I thought I read that there are a few studs you have to use like for the alternator bracket?

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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after owning 2 northstars and the awful HT4100, Ive found it best for me and my situation that I now have 2 caddys both with chevy 350 motors. I know I will probably be bashed on this site for saying, but I like to say the best caddy is one with a chevy motor :) My wifes 05 Buick Rainier also shares the inline 6 chevy motor that was used in trailblazers envoys etc etc. So we have a family of non chevy cars, but all with chevy motors :) The wider range of use is helpful when repairing and the fact that in my opinion cadillac has more then once tried to be a little too innovative in their motor designs instead of sticking with tried and true methods makes the chevy motors more desirable to me.

Check your Fleetwood's exhaust manifold bolts for looseness/missing and vacuum in Optispark vent harness! The latter should build up in a minute or so to around 19" Hg. :)

yep i stay up on that stuff :) Back bolts come loose every month or 2. The gaskets need changed but I dread breaking bolts off in order to get the manifolds off :(

So far 125k miles on original opti so I have plans and money set aside for when it goes. Ive done the fuel pump and sending unit, oil pan gasket and filter adapter, wheel bearings, shocks, o2s, many other sensors, plugs n wires, new exhaust, so pretty much only thing left is that opti and water pump :unsure:

I am planning to upgrade exhaust manifold bolts to grade 8. Let me know if you need 3/8"-16 x 1.500" bolts, I can send you some when get them from McMaster & Karr. They come in 25 pcs packages. I do not need that much.

wow, definately will take you up on that. I have a friend with a fleetwood we just fixed up and his doesnt even have a back bolt on the driver side! His is a 94 base with 110k miles bought for $1300 perfect cosmetic condition. We changed the opti, opti harness, coil, ignition module and fuel pump and its a perfectly good car!

So yea let me know the costs and how many are available and well do that. I thought I read that there are a few studs you have to use like for the alternator bracket?

People usually do not touch the studs and only replace the rest. By the way, there were reports that even grade 8 bolts break...

My theory why it happens is that the exhaust manifold expands more than the block and act like scissors. I would tighten the two central bolts more than the rest and make the thru holes in exhaust manifold of bigger diameter. All my bolts are there, a couple were loose and someone messed with driver side, placing bolts and spacers in wrong locations.

While there I will likely replace ACDelco spark plugs NGK ones.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I would think its better to use stainless bolts if corroding is a problem.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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I would think its better to use stainless bolts if corroding is a problem.

The bolts on the driver side were not rusted at all.

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Is the exhaust manifold bolt issue just with the LT1 engine or is it prevalent with the TBI 350 engines also?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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The LT1 was an all-new engine designed for maximum compatibility with rotating assembles from the familiar 350 cid V8. The cooling system was "reverse flow," i.e. coolant from the water pump was into the heads and back from the block into the water pump, so the heads were not interchangeable with older 350 cid V8s. I doubt that the head bolt pattern was, either, because the old bow-tie small block bolt pattern was designed for a 4.3 liter V8. I suspect that things like tricky manifold bolts were solved by an all-new design, the LS series, and that these peculiarities are unique to the LT series. I would also suspect that good long-life solutions for these problems are available across the GM parts counter and from Fel-Pro and other aftermarket suppliers. When dealing with aftermarket solutions, be sure that you are getting parts for a street engine; high-performance products are sometimes intended for engines that are torn down often and are designed for survival in high-output stressing cases such as drag racing, circle track racing, etc., but not for extreme longevity in a street car.

If you are having trouble with cast exhaust manifold headers shearing the end bolts, you might consider a set of tubular steel headers for the street (with the O2 sensor bungs, AIR fittings, etc.). These will flex a tiny bit and not shear the bolts, and may offer a slight improvement in gas mileage and performance. Be sure and get the stainless steel or coated ones with long-life warranty.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I suspect that things like tricky manifold bolts were solved by an all-new design, the LS series, and that these peculiarities are unique to the LT series. I would also suspect that good long-life solutions for these problems are available across the GM parts counter and from Fel-Pro and other aftermarket suppliers.

Looks like GM never came with satisfying solution. Just one link out of thousands on the subject.

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Summitt Racing has a wide selection of street-legal headers for LT engines in various cars, and in steel, unspecified Stainless Steel, T-304 Stainless Steel, T-409L Stainless Steel, 409 Stainless Steel, and finished with nothing, silver ceramic, thermal coated, etc. If you want to solve the bolt shear problem and possibly the bolt torquing and loosening problem, there's our source. Pick a manifold, then ask Summit or the manufacturer to recommend a trouble-free gasket and bolts.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Summitt Racing has a wide selection of street-legal headers for LT engines in various cars, and in steel, unspecified Stainless Steel, T-304 Stainless Steel, T-409L Stainless Steel, 409 Stainless Steel, and finished with nothing, silver ceramic, thermal coated, etc. If you want to solve the bolt shear problem and possibly the bolt torquing and loosening problem, there's our source. Pick a manifold, then ask Summit or the manufacturer to recommend a trouble-free gasket and bolts.

Thanks Jim. I meant GM did not offer a solution.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Summitt Racing has a wide selection of street-legal headers for LT engines in various cars, and in steel, unspecified Stainless Steel, T-304 Stainless Steel, T-409L Stainless Steel, 409 Stainless Steel, and finished with nothing, silver ceramic, thermal coated, etc. If you want to solve the bolt shear problem and possibly the bolt torquing and loosening problem, there's our source. Pick a manifold, then ask Summit or the manufacturer to recommend a trouble-free gasket and bolts.

that is a good solution, however they are just too darn pricey for me. And actually I didnt know there were that many options, the boards I go to make it sound like their group buy of custom made headers are the only ones available. I got ceramic shorty headers for my older 350 for 180 shipped, anything with the LT1 name on it though jacks up the price :(

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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  • 1 month later...

Back to the original topic. A few hits with my favorite 25 oz hammer on the tabs on both driver and passenger side outer brake pads tabs and the annoying clunk is gone! I have not removed the caliper and acted per FSM - hit them right on the axle. It looks like the pads get looser as they wear out. The Fleetwood rides and sounds like a Cadillac again. :)

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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