Torque specs?

[CarlaValentine]

I am going to be changing my tie rod ends (inner and outer) in the next couple days as they have suddenly gone bad. I have looked all over the internet and cannot find torque specs for them anywhere. I don't have a factory service manual..sadly. Does anyone know the proper specs for them? I don't know how they went out so fast...they were fine a month and a half ago when I had the car inspected, but now they are so bad I could actually move them by hand, and it's terrifying to drive.

[Cadillac Jim]

I have the 1997 FSM. I think that it's reasonable to assume that the tie rods are the same between 1994 Eldorado and 1997 ETC, and my manual does not distinguish between Eldorado/Seville/Deville in this section.

I found the inner tie rod assembly specs in the secion on R&R the steering gear, page 3B-5. Here's what it says about the inner tie rods:

TIGHTEN

• Tie rod end nut to 10 N*m (7.5 lb-ft) then an additional 1/3 turn (2 flats).

IMPORTANT

• When tightening tie rod end nut, a minimum torque of 45 N*m (33 lb-ft) must be obtained. If 45 N*m (33 lb-ft) is not obtained, inspect for stripped threads. If threads are satisfactory, replace tie rod end and knuckle.
• After tightening castellated nut to specification, align slot in nut to cotter pin hole by tightening only. Do not loosen nut for cotter pin installation.

This may be the outer tie rod. From what I can see in the drawings, the inner tie rod end is enclosed in a flexible boot next to the rack and pinion and hydraulic cylinder assembly, and seems to be considered part of the rack and pinion, which is treated as a single part.

On page 3A-4 they show the toe-in adjustment as loosening a lock nut between the inner tie rod and the outer tie rod, which holds the tie rod end. Tightening spec is 70 N*m (52 lb-ft) in the figure and 63 N*m (46 lb-ft) in the text. Uh, use 50 lb-ft.

There is a table of torque specs at the end of the alignment section on page 3A-6.

Control Arm Mounting Bolts, 90 N*m (66 lb-ft)

Inner Tie Rod Locking Nut, 63 N*m (46 lb-ft)

Rear Toe Link Mounting Bolt, 90 N*m (66 lb-ft)

Top strut Mounting Bolts, 24 N*m (18 lb-ft)

Strut-To-Knuckle Bolts, 190 N*m (140 lb-ft)

[joeb]

hard to feel play for the inner tierod unless you separate outer tierod from knuckle. than its real easy to see. if the inner tierod cannot support itself horizontally than it is worn.

[CarlaValentine]

Thanks for the info Jim. I did use those specs. The outer ends were toast, the inners didn't seem too bad, but I had them already so they got changed too. That was on the 1st of May. The car handled great for a few days, then yesterday one of my sway bar links broke off and wedged itself behind my passenger side wheel. I don't know how it broke...it was only about 6 months old. At any rate, all new tie rod ends and both sway bar links replaced again, and my car now rides quietly. Occasionally if I hit a large bump I can hear a clunk from the frame being bent, but no more sloppy handling or constant thunking! YAY for a quiet ride!