Rckjaws10 Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Hello everyone. Since summer is fast approaching in Texas, I have decided to repair my lack of air conditioning problem I have had the system looked at, and was told compressor is leaking, and my evaporator core. However before spending close to 1400 dollars to have the evaporator pulled, I want to change out everything else to be 100 percent sure, that is the leak. Anyways, I do have my shop manual for the car and have the instructions. However if anyone here has any input or advice to tackle this job I would greatly appreciate it. Like and tools that were needed and such. I also plan on replacing the accumulator and orifice tube as well, possibly the condenser. Will the system require flushing in the process of switching out the parts? I noticed at some point there was a thread with instructions on how to do this, but I cannot seem to find it. Again any help is appreciated.. THANKS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 If your old compressor is just leaking at the case seals, there is no reason to flush the system. The existing compressor can be resealed but a few specialized tools are needed and most shops would rather replace the compressor than reseal the existing compressor. The seal kit is $15.00 and the shaft seal is $40.00. Evaporator failures in these cars are rare. Not to say they don't ever go bad but the much more likely leak-candidate is the compressor seals. GM quit painting the nose and tail pieces of the compressor so over time, the aluminum corrodes the corrosion creeps under the o-rings causing a leak. Once the refrigerant is recovered, the system will be empty. The compressor can be removed through the wheel well after removing the front tire. Use new o-rings at each joint you take apart. Lube the o-rings with mineral oil, NOT the PAG-150 oil the system uses. PAG oil is hydroscopic and will attract moisture - keep the container sealed until you're ready to use it. Follow the instructions in the shop manual on how much oil to add to the new compressor. Make sure the enw compressor does not contain oil. If it does, there will be a procedure on how to drain it and how much of the oil to add back to the compressor. When you change out the orifice tube, be sure to orient the new tube with the long portion pointed towards the driver's side of the car. If you install it backward, the temperature sensor in the line will be destroyed. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckjaws10 Posted April 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Thank you this is very helpful.. as far as the o-rings, I notice in the manual some of them are dual o rings, is there any sort of kit to purchase a set of o rings for the lines? Also many people here rockauto.com to get parts and I plan on using this as well, however there are a few different Delco compressors to choose from.. is there a specific one this car requires, or will any of them do? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 We have used this site, as a matter of fact KHE recommended this site to me, they have complete ORING kits, oil, etc http://www.acsource.com/ Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsevillests Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 The same thing happened to me last year, my compressor seals were leaking. Advance Auto and Autozone don't have tools to borrow to take apart the compressor and after looking at the cost of them figuring I wouldn't use them again, I decided to buy a new compressor. If the compressor didn't fail, meaning no metal chips in the system you won't have to flush the system. I bought new compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, and a seal kit. Advance Auto has the seal kit, a whole bunch of different sized o-rings in a little bag. I didn't use them all,, As KHE said remove passenger wheel and plastic wheel well and compressor will come out there. I read that you had to remove the oil filter and the metal base that the filter screws on to but I did not. It was tough getting that compressor mounting bolt out on the oil filter side but I got it without removing it. I used a universal swivel thing on the end of rachet extension and got it out. Getting the bolt back in was tough as well, that bolt was the hardest part of the whole job. After everything installed I drove the car to a shop and had them vaccum the system, check for leaks and fill with r-134. When you install the orifice tube I read to dip it in the PAG oil first, KHE can verify that he is the AC man and helped me very much when I did mine as well as others here. Saved me a lot of money by doing it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckjaws10 Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 The same thing happened to me last year, my compressor seals were leaking. Advance Auto and Autozone don't have tools to borrow to take apart the compressor and after looking at the cost of them figuring I wouldn't use them again, I decided to buy a new compressor. If the compressor didn't fail, meaning no metal chips in the system you won't have to flush the system. I bought new compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, and a seal kit. Advance Auto has the seal kit, a whole bunch of different sized o-rings in a little bag. I didn't use them all,, As KHE said remove passenger wheel and plastic wheel well and compressor will come out there. I read that you had to remove the oil filter and the metal base that the filter screws on to but I did not. It was tough getting that compressor mounting bolt out on the oil filter side but I got it without removing it. I used a universal swivel thing on the end of rachet extension and got it out. Getting the bolt back in was tough as well, that bolt was the hardest part of the whole job. After everything installed I drove the car to a shop and had them vaccum the system, check for leaks and fill with r-134. When you install the orifice tube I read to dip it in the PAG oil first, KHE can verify that he is the AC man and helped me very much when I did mine as well as others here. Saved me a lot of money by doing it myself. Thanks a lot.. In my manual it does not say the oil filter adapter needs to be removed, says oil cooler lines at the adapter and the filter. If possible I for sure would like to avoid having to remove the adapter. Anyone know when the cooler lines are removed from the adapter, will they require new gaskets as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 I dont know about the cooler lines, my 96 did not have an oil cooler. I know that 95 and older had o-rings on the cooler lines. I had the oil filter adapter off a bunch of times, dont be intimidated by it, it gives you a chance to change the seals behind it and clean it up along with cleaning up the pressure switch. If I recall its two or three 10MM bolts, there are two seals that you can get at the dealer. Just remove any 'air dams' that are in the way, you will get more room and visibility. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckjaws10 Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 I dont know about the cooler lines, my 96 did not have an oil cooler. I know that 95 and older had o-rings on the cooler lines. I had the oil filter adapter off a bunch of times, dont be intimidated by it, it gives you a chance to change the seals behind it and clean it up along with cleaning up the pressure switch. If I recall its two or three 10MM bolts, there are two seals that you can get at the dealer. Just remove any 'air dams' that are in the way, you will get more room and visibility. I am reading that optional on the 96 was a towing package, with oil cooler lines from the adapter to the radiator. Not 100 percent, but I would assume mine does not have this, bought it used after all. Maybe a code on the VIN will tell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 You shouldn't have to remove the oil filter adapter to remove the A/C compressor. The Cadillac dealer shoul dbe able to supply the o-rings. The dual o-rings are in some of the lines - they are just two sets of o-rings. Not a big deal. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckjaws10 Posted May 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 Only exact part number replacement for my compressor on rockauto.com is remanufactured from ac delco.. are these units any good? or should i buy a different delco compressor, that is new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 Only exact part number replacement for my compressor on rockauto.com is remanufactured from ac delco.. are these units any good? or should i buy a different delco compressor, that is new? We only use the OEM part, and a remanufactured AC DELCO is good, as long as it is reman by AC DELCO which is what is sounds like We dont like 4 seasons Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 When you install the orifice tube I read to dip it in the PAG oil first, KHE can verify that he is the AC man and helped me very much when I did mine as well as others here. Saved me a lot of money by doing it myself. The only thing that needs to be lubed on the orifice ube is the o-ring. Since it is contained in the system, you can use PAG oil there but I use 525 viscosity mineral oil or Nylog. The critical point is to orient the orifice tube correctly (long end points to the driver's side of the car) so the temperature sensor is not destroyed. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckjaws10 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 also, is there anything i should know about undoing the ac lines at the orifice tube and accumulator? i dont believe i have a wrench that large, anyone know the size of the black nut that unscrews? is the small tool gm recommends necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 I just use a large, adjustable wrench on that fitting. Replace the o-rings at any connection you open up. Lube the new o-rings with 525 viscosity MINERAL oil, not PAG oil. Or you can use Nylog. Not sure what GM tool you are referring to - maybe the orifice tube removal tool? I use needle nose pliers. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckjaws10 Posted May 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 Yep I figured an adjustable wrench would work fine, thank you.. is there a need to secure the male fitting so it doesnt bend when turning the female nut? and the tool I was referring to is the Dual o ring joint separator, from what I read you push it against the nut while unscrewing it.. or something of that nature.. but im going to assume no one here really used one, so its not really necessary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 have never found a member who has talked about taking compressor apart to change case seals or shaft seal. seems like such a specialized job that everyone just replaces the unit. same for clutch. they get rusted from water spray and changing them is usually futile. saw the o-tube removal tool at napa. about $50? or use pliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Always use two wernches as not to bend the lines. The connections pull apart - there is no need for a separator tool. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 have never found a member who has talked about taking compressor apart to change case seals or shaft seal. seems like such a specialized job that everyone just replaces the unit. same for clutch. they get rusted from water spray and changing them is usually futile. saw the o-tube removal tool at napa. about $50? or use pliers. I have repaired the HR-6 A/C compressors - there is not much involved but most shops would rather charge $1000.00 to replace the compressor vs. re-sealing it for $50.00 in parts... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckjaws10 Posted June 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Quick question everyone, where has everyone here bought the 525 mineral oil? I cannot seem to find it anywhere, I have found traditional mineral oil in drugstores, would this work as well? thanks a lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Any refrigeration supply house should have it. You can use 10W-30 oil to lube the o-rings also. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckjaws10 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Any refrigeration supply house should have it. You can use 10W-30 oil to lube the o-rings also. So motor oil will not harm the o rings or lines? I believe this would be easier than trying to search everywhere simply for a quart of the mineral oil. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 It won't harm the o-rings. Just use enough to lube the o-ring so it will seal. The 525 viscosity mineral oil or Nylog are the best choices but you can get by with a drop of motor oil on the o-rings. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rckjaws10 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 It won't harm the o-rings. Just use enough to lube the o-ring so it will seal. The 525 viscosity mineral oil or Nylog are the best choices but you can get by with a drop of motor oil on the o-rings. I see.. I have found an easy place to purchase Nylog online.. will it be the blue label, or the red? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I think the blue label is for both R-134a and R-12 but double check to be sure. The Nylog is the best stuff to use - you won't have a leak. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 looked at a 97 eldo in boneyard this weekend. bumper, radiator, alternator was gone. a/c compressor was there. even so, it looked hard to remove. oil covered, filthy but there it was. i am probably going to replace my compressor again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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