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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-1999-Cadillac-4-6L-Northstar-crate-motor-/310311888997?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1998|Make%3ACadillac&hash=item484007a865#shId

please check this out guys!

let me know if its worth a try... it says that the engine is brand new !

I need a new motor for my car and i need it quick!

I am thinking about ordering a motor from the Northstar Performance site but i was also wondering if anyone has purchased a motor from them . Any info would be helpful, thank you all.

Edited by 98DeVille Base
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I did a quick check of the listing and have several quick takes:

  • The listing says long block, not engine. A long block is block, crank, rods, pistons, heads and cams. From the photos, it appears that the cam covers, water pump and crossover and cam chains are there, too; a cam chain probably means that the oil pump is there. There seems to be no oil pan or flex plate. I don't see a damper wheel/front pulley but the photos aren't clear down there and it may be there if the cam chains are there.
  • The listing says VIN "9" which is the Touring option engine. This is not ALL cars. In fact, you can check your VIN through the windshield; from your profile it looks like the 8th digit of your VIN will likely be "Y" and not "9" which means that this engine will disagree with your PCM. If your car is not a VIN "9" car it's the wrong motor.
  • There are at least three Northstar engines from 1993 through 1999 in addition to the difference between VIN "Y" and VIN "9" versions (which apparently is only the intake cams). The model years 1993-1994 used a different EGR setup than later Northstars and there are differences in the heads because of this. The model year 1995 was OBD I and the sensors are different from the later Northstars, but the bare engine may be the same; Jasper uses the same part number for remanufactured Northstar engines for the 1995-1997 model years. There was a platform change in 1998 that may have changed engine and accessory mounting, and in any case Jasper uses a different part number for 1998-1999 Northstars.

You can check the part number given in the listing, 12369568. I did a web search on that number and turned up a GM Goodwrench Engines Catalog that lists that part number for long blocks for VIN "9" engines for 1993-1994 only, and another part number for 1995-1999 VIN "9" long blocks. Here's a page from that catalog:

http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/gm-goodwrench-658/gm-goodwrench-engines-catalog-252/page-109-fullsize.html

Note that the Goodwrench Engines Catalog shows that this part has been superseded by part number 12567315, which isn't in the catalog but 12567316 is in the catalog for the same applications with VIN "Y" engines.

Concusion: Unless the 8th digit of your VIN is "9" it's the wrong motor. Unless your car is a 1993-1994 it's the wrong motor. This is an old part that has been superseded by a new design, which likely includes parts and design upgrades in such known long-life maintenance issues such as case half seals, ring sticking, and head gaskets.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thew listing says "crate engine" and "comes just as you see it" but if you have a base Deville, you need the VIN Y engine. The one in the listing is the incorrect engine for your car.

You might call them and ask them if they have a VIN Y engine. I'd also ask how much shipping would be to your location - my guess is it is going to be expensive.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Also make sure that this long block is for the 1994-1999 model years.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thank you so much brother. I actually messed up , my car is a y vin and the engine is a 9 vin . wont fit. i took my car to a local mechanic but im worried they dont know what to do with it, im very new to this I have a clean 98 deville base i bought off craigslist a few month ago with 100000 miles on the motor. motor runs smooth tranny shifts flawless but after one month of driving it i started to loose coolant and high pressure in surge ( plastic tank) im thinking its the HG , if i do accept a HG job and a full engine repair would it be worth it ? or is it better to just get a new engine? im new to this so any info would be appreciated.

I dont want to let the car go , i love caddys. i use to have a 95 sts white color it got wrecked , it was my first car at the age of 16, im 24 now and i want to keep my baby

i just need guidance to a good either rebuilt engine or a good mechanic that wont charge me an arm and a leg and fix my engine repair headgasket and do it right!

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I did a quick check of the listing and have several quick takes:

  • The listing says long block, not engine. A long block is block, crank, rods, pistons, heads and cams. From the photos, it appears that the cam covers, water pump and crossover and cam chains are there, too; a cam chain probably means that the oil pump is there. There seems to be no oil pan or flex plate. I don't see a damper wheel/front pulley but the photos aren't clear down there and it may be there if the cam chains are there.
  • The listing says VIN "9" which is the Touring option engine. This is not ALL cars. In fact, you can check your VIN through the windshield; from your profile it looks like the 8th digit of your VIN will likely be "Y" and not "9" which means that this engine will disagree with your PCM. If your car is not a VIN "9" car it's the wrong motor.
  • There are at least three Northstar engines from 1993 through 1999 in addition to the difference between VIN "Y" and VIN "9" versions (which apparently is only the intake cams). The model years 1993-1994 used a different EGR setup than later Northstars and there are differences in the heads because of this. The model year 1995 was OBD I and the sensors are different from the later Northstars, but the bare engine may be the same; Jasper uses the same part number for remanufactured Northstar engines for the 1995-1997 model years. There was a platform change in 1998 that may have changed engine and accessory mounting, and in any case Jasper uses a different part number for 1998-1999 Northstars.

You can check the part number given in the listing, 12369568. I did a web search on that number and turned up a GM Goodwrench Engines Catalog that lists that part number for long blocks for VIN "9" engines for 1993-1994 only, and another part number for 1995-1999 VIN "9" long blocks. Here's a page from that catalog:

http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/gm-goodwrench-658/gm-goodwrench-engines-catalog-252/page-109-fullsize.html

Note that the Goodwrench Engines Catalog shows that this part has been superseded by part number 12567315, which isn't in the catalog but 12567316 is in the catalog for the same applications with VIN "Y" engines.

Concusion: Unless the 8th digit of your VIN is "9" it's the wrong motor. Unless your car is a 1993-1994 it's the wrong motor. This is an old part that has been superseded by a new design, which likely includes parts and design upgrades in such known long-life maintenance issues such as case half seals, ring sticking, and head gaskets.

Thanks alot man , appreciate it. Im in los angeles area, do you know where can i find a REAL cadillac mechanic that wont f*** me ? cuz in los angeles it seems like everyone is after the money and half of them dont even know *smurf*!

I asked this mechanic if he will use time serts on my car he askedme whats time serts... I took my car back from him the same day! I rather pay a little more and get it done right... He wanted 2700 for a HG CHANGE

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If the (so called) mechanic don't know what TimeSerts are... RUN from him as fast as you can.

Contact Northstar Performance and see if they have a trusted mechanic in that area...

Website: http://www.northstarperformance.com

Phone: 519-875-2970

Fax: 877-858-6971

Email: info@northstarperformance.com

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If the (so called) mechanic don't know what TimeSerts are... RUN from him as fast as you can.

Contact Northstar Performance and see if they have a trusted mechanic in that area...

Website: http://www.northstarperformance.com

Phone: 519-875-2970

Fax: 877-858-6971

Email: info@northstarperformance.com

LOLLL I DID RUN BRO, TRUST ME! STILL RUNNING LOL TRYING TO FIND A PERMANENT GOOD FIX FOR IT. I TRIED CONTACTING NORTHSTAR PERFORMANCE ALL I GET IS THEIR MESSAGE ANSWERING SYSTEM!

I HEARD THEIR BOLTS SOMETIMES COME OVERSIZED OR WHAT NOT? ANOTHER QUESTION... IF I USE THE BOLTS WILL IT BE BETTER THAN NORMS TIMESERTS? WHAT ELSE SHOULD I CONSIDER CHANGING WHILE MY ENGINE IS OUT OF THE CAR? I HEARD STUFF LIKE HEATER CORE AND FLY WHEEL WOULD BE A GOOD THING TO REPLACE ALONG WITH INTAKE MANIFOLDS AND CATALITYC CONVERTERS?

ANY INFO WOULD BE HIGHLY APPRECIATED... I BASICALLY WANT TO RE-NEW THE CAR WHILE ITS GETTING THE HEADGASKET CHANGED.

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Please don't type in all caps.. makes it hard to read.

Intake manifolds and flywheels don't wear out.

There is no need at all to replace them.

Catalytic converters only need replacing if they go bad,

They are not considered a routine replacement item that should be replaced at a certain time or mileage.

I have had vehicles with 250,000 miles that still had the original factory converter.

If it was me... I would replace all heater hoses, engine hoses, belts and maybe the heater blower cover on the firewall.

The blower cover gets brittle over time, with age, and the heat from under the hood.

I would also replace the silicone hoses that are between the engine and firewall... "IF" your model car has them.

Of course you will put a new water pump on it. :)

While the engine is out of the car... look at all of the power steering hoses.

Replace any that are leaking or that have any external damage to them.

Check and repair or replace any leaking iol cooler or transmission cooler lines.

Check the radiator END TANKS for any sign of leakage.

If leaking ANY AT ALL... replace the radiator.

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Please don't type in all caps.. makes it hard to read.

Intake manifolds and flywheels don't wear out.

There is no need at all to replace them.

Catalytic converters only need replacing if they go bad,

They are not considered a routine replacement item that should be replaced at a certain time or mileage.

I have had vehicles with 250,000 miles that still had the original factory converter.

If it was me... I would replace all heater hoses, engine hoses, belts and maybe the heater blower cover on the firewall.

The blower cover gets brittle over time, with age, and the heat from under the hood.

I would also replace the silicone hoses that are between the engine and firewall... "IF" your model car has them.

Of course you will put a new water pump on it. :)

While the engine is out of the car... look at all of the power steering hoses.

Replace any that are leaking or that have any external damage to them.

Check and repair or replace any leaking iol cooler or transmission cooler lines.

Check the radiator END TANKS for any sign of leakage.

If leaking ANY AT ALL... replace the radiator.

Im sorry about the caps, im new on this. I have a brand new waterpump on it, new coolant tank new radiator but theres a problem. when my car first started to overheat and all i put bars leak in there ( i know im a dumbass) now im thinking would it be reasonable to change the whole nine yards or just clean out what i have ? i put like 3 bottles of it in there :X

ALSO when getting my HG repaired what should i look out for? what bran of gasket set should i use? i want something that will last!

thanks to all of you again!

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not sure if its a problem on 98s, but it would be a good time to change the TCC solenoid in the transmission. Cheap part but real expensive to fix because you have to drop the tranny or whole cradle cant remember.

I dont know about the los angeles area, but here in nebraska we have alot of craigslist ads for people wanting cadillacs with bad head gaskets to buy. They obviously fix them often and easily and sell the car for more afterwards. Maybe look on your CL and see if there are people that do alot of cadillac head gaskets or place an ad on there and judge those that respond with an interview to test their knowledge.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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not sure if its a problem on 98s, but it would be a good time to change the TCC solenoid in the transmission. Cheap part but real expensive to fix because you have to drop the tranny or whole cradle cant remember.

I dont know about the los angeles area, but here in nebraska we have alot of craigslist ads for people wanting cadillacs with bad head gaskets to buy. They obviously fix them often and easily and sell the car for more afterwards. Maybe look on your CL and see if there are people that do alot of cadillac head gaskets or place an ad on there and judge those that respond with an interview to test their knowledge.

Thanks i will consider that as well. I am going to wait one week and shop around before i do anything. so any more info would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you all, im glad to join you guys on here btw, looks like a strong community built !

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I'm surprised noone has told him to check the bolt that comes from the water pump!

The line that goes from the resevior, across the front of engine and then into a hollow bolt on water pump. Take that bolt out and see if it is clogged, on my car it was partially plugged and caused loss of coolant and then overheating. I believe it causes too much pressure in the resivoir cap causing it to release coolant and you never see any coolant because it is going out the overflow tube thus you think it is being lost internally. Then a blown headgasket is your conclusion because no leak and overheating.

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I would put a new water pump on the motor. It's off to pull the heads, the seals do wear out, so its a nice, convenient time to put a new one on.

If you are gong to replace the TCC solenoid, I would replace all of them. Also, when you are done, or the next time you service the transmission, make sure *all* the transmission fluid is replaced with Dexron VI.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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