DTC 1133

[rockfangd]

can anyone enlighten me on this

DTC P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1.

my 97 SLS.

brand new sensor, plug looks good. Intermittent code. Once it sets it does not seem to go off unless I reset it.

This really bugs me because I just had the dealer install the sensor and it is a big PITA to get to.

Is it possible this could be caused by my intake blow by valve leaking.

Thanks all.

I run nothing but premium gas and am averaging 18.0 mpg mixed if this helps

[JimD]

....Is it possible this could be caused by my intake blow by valve leaking....

What is an "intake blow by valve"??

[Cadillac Jim]

The 1997 FSM, pages 6-502 discusses DTC P1133. The heated oxygen sensors respond quickly to changes in the exhaust oxygen content once the engine warms up, and if this isn't happening then DTC P1133 will be set.

The FSM says that the condition is if the rich-to-lean or lean-to-rich transitions are less than 20 in two minutes, the DTC will be set. The MIL will turn off if the condition isn't detected for three consecutive drive trips where the engine warms up. It won't clear the code as HISTORY until forty consecutive warm-up cycles have been completed with no failures of *any* emissions-related self-test.

With the engine warmed up (coolant at least 185 F) and the engine idling, the oxygen sensor voltage should rapidly swing above 0.60 Volts and below 0.30 Volts. This is what is not happening.

The FSM manual basically says to do repairs related to other DTC's first, then to check the connections to the HO2 sensor. If the voltage on it still does not swing rapidly above 0.60 Volts and below 0.30 Volts, replace the HO2 sensor.

Look at the other codes. If you don't have mixture-related codes like P0171 and such, take it back to the dealer and tell him the same oxygen sensor is throwing a code. They should replace it free on the Goodwrench warranty.

[rockfangd]

well.

no other codes present, connection is good.

I provided the part for the dealer to change so I dont know how it would work.

What I call the blow by valve is the valve at the bottm of th intake behind the power steering pump.

[BodybyFisher]

That intake back fire valve probably would cause a lean mixture but you are not seeing a code. I would think it would set P0171 and P0174 codes but maybe its just whistling and not leaking seriously.

[rockfangd]

Well. this week I am getting in contact with my retailer for a replacement o2 sensor to replace this faulty sensor.

The light cam on today after 2 weeks. and when it does come on it is always in the middle of a trip at regular operating temp. But I really dont want to take it back tto the dealer to have the sensor replaced again. I was very dissatisfied when they installed the current one. Corners were cut and I paid. The rods were never disconnected for the RSS sensors ,breaking both. And also the downpipe was damaged. My guess they dropped the subframe too far and didnt fix it or say anything. Very unprofessional for the price we pay if you ask me. So I am looking for tips to do this job myself. It shouldnt be too bad because it is oonly a few months old.

And to add I have no other codes at all other than the random DTC 1133

[caddypete]

It is a pain to reach that sensor with most O2 sensor sockets, I use a crowfoot wrench and can get it out.In case you dont know what that is, it is a open end wrench that fits on a 3/8 drive rachet. use a long extension, it is time consuming cause you can only get small turns at a time but once it is loose you can turn it out with your fingers.

[rockfangd]

tried a crowsfoot on the original one, also tried o2 sockets, the fact that the sensor is recessed into the manifold made it so that I could not get the crowsfoot on enoough.

Now the replacement sensor is narrower bodied than the original so that may help.

[rockfangd]

Update. 6/7/11.

Good news, I was able to change the o2 sensor myself. thank god. i bought a 12 point universal super duty o2 sensor socket. it took me about 35 mins and it still was not fun, but it is done. I wont know if the problem is solved though till I get the top end back together.

I am hoping once I get everything done with this car it will run and drive like new.

NOTE. If the sensor is original, unless you are extremely lucky you will have to drop the subframe to remove the sensor. due to the fact that the sensor is too thick to put the socket on the sensor.

The replacement sensors I have installed are skinny enough to slide my socket through the sensor and with 3 or 4 extensions and patience you will not need to drop the subframe.

I will post the end results once I drive the car

[rockfangd]

well 110 miles and the light went out on its own and everything is good. Thank god I was able to do the sensor myself

[Cadillac Jim]

[KHE]

I'd be talking to the dealer about the idiots breaking the suspension sensors....

I changed the sensor on my '97 STS last week. I drove the car to get the exhaust system warmed up and then used a crowfoot wrench to loosen it. Getting the exhaust system warmed up really helps to break the sensor loose. I could then remove it with my fingers from underneath the car (after things cooled a bit...).

[rockfangd]

I'd be talking to the dealer about the idiots breaking the suspension sensors....

I changed the sensor on my '97 STS last week. I drove the car to get the exhaust system warmed up and then used a crowfoot wrench to loosen it. Getting the exhaust system warmed up really helps to break the sensor loose. I could then remove it with my fingers from underneath the car (after things cooled a bit...).

was the sensor you replaced original or replacement?

I was not able to use a crowsfoot due to the fact that the sensor is recessed into the maanifold