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a/c woes!


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hello all! i have a 1996 eldorado etc and am having some difficulties with the a/c i have a current 1312(high side temp sensor ) and 1314 (low side temp sensor ) also i guess these two codes are preventing my compressor from starting ..so by jumping the relay the compressor starts but cycles very quickly 5 seconds on 5 seconds off. my question is will either one of these sensors cause the compressor to cycle? or are the readings false becouse of a slightly low freon situation? another words if i erase the codes jump the compressor and add a little freon maybe that will fix it ? it just seems strange that both thermistors would go bad simultaneusly! i really appreciate any insight!!

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I wouldnt doubt they are bad. Given the age of your car and the few Ive changed on friends cadillacs. I had a similar problem on my 00 dts. I thought maybe if I just put in freon it would go away, but it didnt. Then I wasted all that freon, changed the sensor, refilled with proper oil and freon and was good to go for another couple years. The pressure and temp sensors seem to go bad alot on these cars from what Ive seen anyway. Reminder DONT ever use stop leak on an a/c system, it will clog up passage ways and could even ruin sensors and/or make them give false readings.

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cool thanks alot for the tips i would love to be able to just take it to the dealer and say fix it! but the only caddy dealer here say they dont know how to work on that car what a trip huh! oh yea i read online somewhere i guy was having the same problem and felt it was a bad switch but he didnt want to spend the money to repair it properly and he just installed a RESISTOR in the hight temp switch connector and no more proplems hmmmmmmmmm what resistance i wonder would be the same as the high side temp switchs resistance when its in its normal operating range!

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If your dealer "doesn't know how to work on your car," a 1996 El Dorado ETC, find another dealer. Any GM dealer with Goodwrench-trained mechanics can work on your air conditioner and get all parts, even Cadillac-specific parts like the condenser.

Of course, you may find an independent mechanic just as good and far less expensive than the dealer. The difference is the Goodwrench warranty. My compressor was replaced in the 2002 time frame when the reed valves went. The Goodwrench warranty for a compressor was lifetime, and probably still is. The clutch wasn't adjusted perfectly from the factory and gradually started slipping, and around 2006 it became unreliable about pulling in. GM replaced the whole compressor for free because they don't replace the compressor clutch as a separate part.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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ACM 1312 - High side temp sensor open circuit.

ACM 1314 - Low side temp sensor open circuit.

Are you sure the sensors are plugged in? They are on the A/C line that runs along the firewall. The low side sensor is right after the orifice tube and the high side sensor is along the line toward the brake booster. If they are plugged in, then unplug them and jumper the harness contacts together and see if the codes change to the short circuit codes (I can't remember the code numbers). If they do, then the wiring is OK and the sensors are probably bad.

The sensors are usually very reliable - the low side sensor often will get damaged if an orifice tube is installed in the wrong direction.

Diagnose and fix the problem rather than adding resistors, etc. to the system in hopes of getting it to work.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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you can clear ac codes on a 96. i have done it. will allow a/c to run until it sees another fault. they are cheap. $35 i believe.

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well obviously there is something else keeping it from running becouse when i reset the codes and jump the compressor it just cycles on and off and immediately resets 1312 and 1314 ,that why i asked what RESISTOR i could use FOR TESTING AND CHARGING PURPOSES!!!! I READ ANOTHER GUY RAN FOR MONTHS WITH A resistorIN PLACE OF THE thermistor! what ohm rating do you think?

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If your dealer "doesn't know how to work on your car," a 1996 El Dorado ETC, find another dealer. Any GM dealer with Goodwrench-trained mechanics can work on your air conditioner and get all parts, even Cadillac-specific parts like the condenser.

I think he is in Cancun and his resources are limited.

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well obviously there is something else keeping it from running becouse when i reset the codes and jump the compressor it just cycles on and off and immediately resets 1312 and 1314 ,that why i asked what RESISTOR i could use FOR TESTING AND CHARGING PURPOSES!!!! I READ ANOTHER GUY RAN FOR MONTHS WITH A resistorIN PLACE OF THE thermistor! what ohm rating do you think?

CALM DOWN. You don't need any resistors for charging purposes.

Just hook up and bleed your charging equipment, clear any codes, and start the engine. The system will draw in enough refrigerant to prevent it from shutting down due to low refrigerant. You can then continue to add refrigerant to the proper level. This assumes, of course, that the system is only low and still has a fair amount of gas still in it. Sometimes a second attempt is required.

If the error codes return, you have a problem that is NOT caused by low refrigerant.

Regards,

Warren

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well obviously there is something else keeping it from running becouse when i reset the codes and jump the compressor it just cycles on and off and immediately resets 1312 and 1314 ,that why i asked what RESISTOR i could use FOR TESTING AND CHARGING PURPOSES!!!! I READ ANOTHER GUY RAN FOR MONTHS WITH A resistorIN PLACE OF THE thermistor! what ohm rating do you think?

Forget about adding resistors to the system.... In post #5, I described how to troubleshoot the problem. What is keeping it from running is the ACM thinks there is not any refrigerant due to open circuits in the sensors. The system is operating exactly as it should.

Are the sensors plugged in? Have you unplugged them and jumpered the harness plugs to see if the codes switch to the shoirt circuit codes?

This will take about 15 minutes to check and will quickly pinpoint the problem.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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If your dealer "doesn't know how to work on your car," a 1996 El Dorado ETC, find another dealer. Any GM dealer with Goodwrench-trained mechanics can work on your air conditioner and get all parts, even Cadillac-specific parts like the condenser.

I think he is in Cancun and his resources are limited.

The last time I was in Cancun, some decades ago, even an oil change was a big challenge. Even so, I would start by finding the sensors and making sure that the connectors are clean, tight, and pushed properly onto the sensors.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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well obviously there is something else keeping it from running becouse when i reset the codes and jump the compressor it just cycles on and off and immediately resets 1312 and 1314 ,that why i asked what RESISTOR i could use FOR TESTING AND CHARGING PURPOSES!!!! I READ ANOTHER GUY RAN FOR MONTHS WITH A resistorIN PLACE OF THE thermistor! what ohm rating do you think?

Forget about adding resistors to the system.... In post #5, I described how to troubleshoot the problem. What is keeping it from running is the ACM thinks there is not any refrigerant due to open circuits in the sensors. The system is operating exactly as it should.

Are the sensors plugged in? Have you unplugged them and jumpered the harness plugs to see if the codes switch to the shoirt circuit codes?

This will take about 15 minutes to check and will quickly pinpoint the problem.

i was only going to connect the resistors to check if the system seems to be working well or maybe their was a different problem .sunday i bought a cheapie gauge set and some 134 which is dirt cheap here! and erased the codes connected everyhing (including my jumper) and the compressor started and cycled briefly and then consumed the entire can of freon. about a half pound. continued to run fine all day in 94 degree weather! thanks for everyones help! today im going to hunt down the temperature sensors (high and low side) which are causing the only codes present 1312 1314, i disconnected and crossed the connectors and immediatly threw the codes for short circuit !...........so it looks as if BOTH thermistors are bad! so im off on the fun search for those two items ,i let you know how it turns out!

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You will need to recover the refrigerant charge before removing the thermistors. It would also be helpful to unplug the sensors and check the resistance to be sure they are open (the ohm meter will read infinite resistance).

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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hey guys ! i have a frustrating problem here in cancun where there isnt not one place to properly diagnose and repair whatever problem i may have with my 1996 ETC ok here we go a/c system down for about a year due to bad blower motor. replaced the blower motor got the system going nicely,ONE DAY alternator went out, replaced alternator .now blows the 10 amp a/c fuse which also controls the ENGINE COOLING FANS! so i can only cool the engine with the a/c compressor relay pulled . needles to say its kinda hot. i cant find any shorts ,and assume its one of the three relays .how should i go about diagnosing this problem! by the way the fuse blows as soon as you turn on the a/c!! thanks for all the help ...in advance!!!

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hey guys ! i have a frustrating problem here in cancun where there isnt not one place to properly diagnose and repair whatever problem i may have with my 1996 ETC ok here we go a/c system down for about a year due to bad blower motor. replaced the blower motor got the system going nicely,ONE DAY alternator went out, replaced alternator .now blows the 10 amp a/c fuse which also controls the ENGINE COOLING FANS! so i can only cool the engine with the a/c compressor relay pulled . needles to say its kinda hot. i cant find any shorts ,and assume its one of the three relays .how should i go about diagnosing this problem! by the way the fuse blows as soon as you turn on the a/c!! thanks for all the help ...in advance!!!

Try this.

Instead of removing the compressor relay, remove the connector from the A/C compressor and tell us the results. One possibility is replacing your alternator disturbed or damaged the wire harness to the compressor clutch.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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hey guys ! i have a frustrating problem here in cancun where there isnt not one place to properly diagnose and repair whatever problem i may have with my 1996 ETC ok here we go a/c system down for about a year due to bad blower motor. replaced the blower motor got the system going nicely,ONE DAY alternator went out, replaced alternator .now blows the 10 amp a/c fuse which also controls the ENGINE COOLING FANS! so i can only cool the engine with the a/c compressor relay pulled . needles to say its kinda hot. i cant find any shorts ,and assume its one of the three relays .how should i go about diagnosing this problem! by the way the fuse blows as soon as you turn on the a/c!! thanks for all the help ...in advance!!!

Try this.

Instead of removing the compressor relay, remove the connector from the A/C compressor and tell us the results. One possibility is replacing your alternator disturbed or damaged the wire harness to the compressor clutch.

My bets are a short in the 2nd cooling fan attached to the radiator. disconnect the connector to the cooling fans & see if when the AC is put on it blows the fuse.

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My bets are a short in the 2nd cooling fan attached to the radiator. disconnect the connector to the cooling fans & see if when the AC is put on it blows the fuse.

The cooling fan motors are powered through the 50 A maxifuse labeled COOL FNS.

The original poster is dealing with a 10 A fuse labeled AC COMP which protects the fan relays and AC compressor clutch circuits.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Definitely check the harness to the A/C clutch. There is a diode across the terminals and sometimes that will short causing the fuse to blow. Check the wires for insulation that has rubbed through.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I merged the two threads you have on your AC problems, KEEP them together no need for multiple threads

If your AC fuse is BLOWING and stopping your cooling fans, it is probably due to a bad AC clutch, the same happened to mine, the clutch windings overheat due to a bad AC hub bearing and short the clutch windings, blowing the fuse, replace the AC compressor or the clutch if you can. This same thing happened to my 96 Deville

Is your hub bearing making a whining or moaning noise and if you take the belt off, is the pulley hub loose or does it move side to side at all?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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hi thanks for the help .actually i havent used the a/c since i bought the car due to a bad blower motor but a couple weeks ago i got that straightened out! it seems to me that one of the three relays (the one that turns on the fans when you turn on the a/c has a short or something?)this is kinda worrying me as i just got the a/c going after a lot of problems and expense and i really dont think its the compressor it seemed to work great . but i will try to check today for voltage and resistance of the clutch coil but its kinda difficult to reach i would be much happier if it was a relay or something!!

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I merged the two threads you have on your AC problems, KEEP them together no need for multiple threads

If your AC fuse is BLOWING and stopping your cooling fans, it is probably due to a bad AC clutch, the same happened to mine, the clutch windings overheat due to a bad AC hub bearing and short the clutch windings, blowing the fuse, replace the AC compressor or the clutch if you can. This same thing happened to my 96 Deville

Is your hub bearing making a whining or moaning noise and if you take the belt off, is the pulley hub loose or does it move side to side at all?

thanks for helping with the merge of my posts im a real newbie at this!
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Definitely check the harness to the A/C clutch. There is a diode across the terminals and sometimes that will short causing the fuse to blow. Check the wires for insulation that has rubbed through.

hmmmmm the most promising possibility ive seen!!! thanks man for your insight im going to crawl under there and get right after it its starting to worry me .....alot!!!

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hey guys ! i have a frustrating problem here in cancun where there isnt not one place to properly diagnose and repair whatever problem i may have with my 1996 ETC ok here we go a/c system down for about a year due to bad blower motor. replaced the blower motor got the system going nicely,ONE DAY alternator went out, replaced alternator .now blows the 10 amp a/c fuse which also controls the ENGINE COOLING FANS! so i can only cool the engine with the a/c compressor relay pulled . needles to say its kinda hot. i cant find any shorts ,and assume its one of the three relays .how should i go about diagnosing this problem! by the way the fuse blows as soon as you turn on the a/c!! thanks for all the help ...in advance!!!

Try this.

Instead of removing the compressor relay, remove the connector from the A/C compressor and tell us the results. One possibility is replacing your alternator disturbed or damaged the wire harness to the compressor clutch.

ok disconnected the ac put in the relay for the a/c comp cranked the car with a/c off .....fuse good....turn on a/c immediately fuse blows!?
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so its not the a/c compressor clutch!! thank god! i would think its the relay that sends the command for cooling fans on. when you turn on the a/c!i guess i could try putting 12 volts to the compressor clutch but that isnt the problem if the fuse blows when it is disconnected

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