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97 seville strut


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Hi all I need some info. My pot of gold has run out and apparently so has my luck.

My 97 seville has a blown strut(I say blown strut)on the right front.

oil is everywhere from the boot down.

hitting small bumps is aweful, and is making bad noise.

I cannot afford a new strut right now so I pulled a used one off of a 98 Eldorado for now until I can figure out what to do.

The problem I have is that the one I pulled from the Eldorado does not have the RSS plug. like mine does.

I am not sure if they were the original struts on the eldorado because I had to have a friend pull it for me but it is a 98 Eldorado ESC.

My questions

Is there anything I can do to make thee service ride control light not come on when I put the strut on?

Should there be any fitment issues?

This is very rare for me as I would usually just buy new and not even worry about it but I dont know what else to do for now.

Thanks all in advance, I must say I have no idea why the strut is shot but I did start noticing oil on the strut once I got the engine repaired. But I have to be honest at the time I was sceptical of the dealer spraying oil under the boot to make a sale.

Please dont criticize me and keep rude comments out.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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It might be best to go and find a part with a better fit if you can. If you have a 1997 SLS with OEM struts, I think any Eldorado or Seville from 1992 to 1997 with the VIN Y options should fit. The VIN 9 cars have a different suspension. Later model Eldorados with VIN Y may also be OK because the Eldorado never had a platform change. Seville had a platform change in 1998 and I doubt the struts stayed the same. Others here might want to narrow the range of years.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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interesting info on platforms. i figured the eldo parts would bolt into a 96-97 seville. yes the electrical connections may differ but disabling the ride control is an option the owner can deal with. so a 99 eldo strut will fit into my 96 seville.

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Ok I should getto my new point. Is tere anything I can do to trick the RSS systm into thinking the strut is plugged in when it is not.

I cannot deal with rss problems lol.

Has anyone done this?

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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You can put a resistor in the plug to fool the EBTCM into thinking that you have electrically controlled struts. Be aware that ABS and Stabilitrak will not work as intended if you do this. I would suggest that you unplug the other strut and use a resistor on both sides to keep the car symmetrical.

The suspension will be in the soft adjustment all the time when you do this. Note that the PCM will limit you to 80 mph when this is detected by OBD, so I would keep this in mind. ABS will still work, but without the ability to stiffen up the shocks it won't work as well. Same for Stabilitrak.

When you can, you should replace both front struts. Those that come without the electrical connections should be stiff enough for you to let go of the 80 mph safe speed limit. If you plan to sell the car later, springing for the electrically controlled struts like OEM will enhance the value of the car; I wouldn't buy a car that has had OEM stuff disabled, and people that don't care will be looking for bargains.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Ok I should getto my new point. Is tere anything I can do to trick the RSS systm into thinking the strut is plugged in when it is not.

I cannot deal with rss problems lol.

Has anyone done this?

Yes, actually I have set of these plugs with the required resistors! I bought the Arnott struts for the RSS system and I didn't need that part of them. My 98 Eldo has the passive system. Arnott was completely out of stock of those and I needed struts bad so I bought these and removed the sensor setup.

I have the sensor wiring harness for sale ($40) and is listed in the forums here at his link.. I am quite sure they will fit your application. There are pictures of the electrical connector in the post.

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=34653

'09 Cadillac CTS-4 3.6 direct injection, 128 K mi.
'15 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, 5.3i V8, 125 K mi
'70 Firebird Formula 400, Bored+.04, RAIII heads, M21 4spd., in-process restoration!

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You can put a resistor in the plug to fool the EBTCM into thinking that you have electrically controlled struts. Be aware that ABS and Stabilitrak will not work as intended if you do this. I would suggest that you unplug the other strut and use a resistor on both sides to keep the car symmetrical.

The suspension will be in the soft adjustment all the time when you do this. Note that the PCM will limit you to 80 mph when this is detected by OBD, so I would keep this in mind. ABS will still work, but without the ability to stiffen up the shocks it won't work as well. Same for Stabilitrak.

When you can, you should replace both front struts. Those that come without the electrical connections should be stiff enough for you to let go of the 80 mph safe speed limit. If you plan to sell the car later, springing for the electrically controlled struts like OEM will enhance the value of the car; I wouldn't buy a car that has had OEM stuff disabled, and people that don't care will be looking for bargains.

This is only for temporary till I can afford to replace the struts with original equipment. I dont like modifying things but right now I dont have much choice unless I find a match used strut soon.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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This is only for temporary till I can afford to replace the struts with original equipment. I dont like modifying things but right now I dont have much choice unless I find a match used strut soon.

Now that you'll have these Arnott sensors I'm sending, one option you'll have is to just buy the standard (less expensive) Arnott struts that will fit the front of your vehicle and mount those sensors on them. Here is the link...

http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_CADILLAC_Air_Suspension_Parts_yid6_pid36.html

$217 isn't a bad price and it was even less at Advance Auto online when I was looking. They were just out of stock at the time... I just found a -10% off discount coupon code for Arnott online purchase also it is 74V4-W7D

I'm happy with the Arnott struts. I'm sure they are not as nice of a ride as the OEM electronic stuff, but like most said, it depends on what that is worth to you and how long you're keeping her!

Edited by sprucegoose

'09 Cadillac CTS-4 3.6 direct injection, 128 K mi.
'15 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, 5.3i V8, 125 K mi
'70 Firebird Formula 400, Bored+.04, RAIII heads, M21 4spd., in-process restoration!

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