TDK Posted October 14, 2004 Report Share Posted October 14, 2004 I managed to change the coolant and cleanup the engine area recently on the BRD (Big Red Dog). So, I figured - what the heck, let's rotate and balance the tires - and treat it like some of the pampered Caddies around. All the rotations and balances were at no charge - so I asked what a 4-wheel alignment was. Only $69.95 and be ready tomorrow afternoon - sold! It seems that romping around on gravel roads and potholes at 80+ for a couple years didn't faze it too much. The alignment guy had to adapt the heads on his machine (forgot to ask what kind) for the rear wheels, because the fender on top interferred (even tho it was skirt-less). For those interested in the specs, attatched is a scan of the results. Note that "Actual" is "As left" or "After". 4-wheel alignment In all, a testament to whoever engineered it and bolted up the BRD - they did some fine work. This car is one smooth and hardy ride. Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 14, 2004 Report Share Posted October 14, 2004 This is great to see, I need an alignment soon, I saved yours in my 96 file to take with me, I like all the details. I need to replace a ball joint on my left front first. Do you feel an difference after the alignment? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDK Posted October 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2004 Scotty, I had to run it a bit hard on the interstate to cook out the water from an engine compartment cleaning (the day or two prior to alignment). Could not tell any differance, except the slight off-balance at 85-95 was now OK (after the balances). There was never any pull to one side or abnormal tire wear, I just though it was due for an alignment. After the engine miss was gone and a quick leak/looky, I went back out later and did the "on-ramp baseline test". It cranked right up to about 100 at the end of the ramp (and into the teens a little further on). The BRD - she be ready... The BRD will be on a 1,500-mile round trip starting tonight, so it'll get some premium fuel for a change. For sure, there will be more "into the triples" on the way and other such challenges. Time to check milage etc, (never any oil loss) and of course keep tabs (pun intended) on the new pre-diluted yellow (at least I thought so) coolant. Later, Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 14, 2004 Report Share Posted October 14, 2004 Thanks have a safe trip! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDK Posted October 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 Yo Mike, The BRD did the trip OK, as usual. One way 640 miles at 80mph average. Same ole' verbal speed limiter...why do you need to pass so many cars at once..why does no one ever pass us...did you ever hear of too fast for existing conditions?...yada yada. Then the in next minute, you hear - "I need to go the bathroom - how far away is the next stop?" Women - if there was a bounty on 'em... The alignment seemed OK. The BRD has the same "point and shoot" ability. There turned out to be some peceptible balance problem that shows up at 60-75, but tends to smooth out at 83+ (differs with road condition to some degree). Apparently, I passed through the vibe zone a bit too quickly during evaluation runs. I may have to chat with the shop guys about their balance job. <_< Here's a question for all: Why are shocks/struts not re-built? The metal housings and shafts should not wear out and the soft goods (rubber seals etc) should be replaceable or sized for the worn parts. So, why not have rebuilt items (instead of the $600 "active suspension" items)? Granted, the replacement may take a bit longer if rebuilt locally. Maybe I just don't know the magic stuff inside... Another re-occuring question I have is: How to definitively tell when struts are worn? Is all this money riding (pun intended) on a simplistic "bumper re-bound test" and nothing quantitative? Could a road vibration be caused by struts and not simply tire balance. I'm thinking the harmonic frequency at a given speed combined with a certain road pavement concrete/asphalt construction - might bring out the worst at times? Comments? Since I finally took off the coolant expansion tank cap and looked inside (when I drained and refilled it) - I noticed the downward slanted piece of plastic. It can only be some kind of rudimentary level gauge. I had filled the tank to about half of the "gauge" before I started out. I later added about a cup or so of the pre-diluted 50/50 after 700 or so miles when the cold level was slightly below the "gauge". I read some other posts that 2" or so below the cap is OK. I'll probably try to forget about... whatever I was just writing about - until the level sensor hollars for attention. Enough. <_< Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 Same ole' verbal speed limiter I believe what you are saying regarding vibration eminating from worn struts. I do notice that when I hit a bump, the vibration is not a quick event but the bump kind of continues as if the wheel is not controlled in its up and down motion. I need to replace my front struts as soon as I can.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprucegoose Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 TDK, I think there is a corrolation between the possible worn struts and your bounce/vibration. I am experiencing that right now on my Eldo, especially at about 60-65 when i first take it out on the road. I can travel that same stretch of road later once the car and suspension is warmed up and I hardly notice it at all. I agree, there has to be a better way of testing for worn shocks/struts than just bounce testing it while it is parked. Obviously you can take them off and push/pull on them, but this is no simple job! I will be replacing my rear shocks as soon as this weekend, and I'm curious as to how the tired OEM's will "feel" off the car compared to the used ones I bought. They still seem to marginally pass the bounce test, but I'm sure theyr'e tired... '09 Cadillac CTS-4 3.6 direct injection, 128 K mi. '15 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, 5.3i V8, 125 K mi '70 Firebird Formula 400, Bored+.04, RAIII heads, M21 4spd., in-process restoration! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 Basically, if you are happy with the ride there probably is no problem with them. Take notice next time you hit a little dip in the highway. Does the front end seem to float up and down? If it does, shocks/struts are worn, if not, they are still ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 Same ole' verbal speed limiter TDK I wish women were just speed limiters, sometimes I think they are life limiters The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 20, 2004 Report Share Posted October 20, 2004 Basically, if you are happy with the ride there probably is no problem with them. Take notice next time you hit a little dip in the highway. Does the front end seem to float up and down? If it does, shocks/struts are worn, if not, they are still ok. That is what happens to me, I have to change them during the winter, it bugs me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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