JasonA Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 50 watts seems like overkill to me - Using Ohm's law, 12 volts across 12 ohms = 1amp current draw. Power = E*I = 12*1 = 12 watts. A 25 watt resistor should be more than adequate (safety factor of 2) unless I'm missing something.... Yes, 25-watt resistors work fine. These resistors are built in a heat sink. You wouldn't know it was a resistor unless someone told you. They look like small cubes with fins all around them. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 Yes, 25-watt resistors work fine. These resistors are built in a heat sink. You wouldn't know it was a resistor unless someone told you. They look like small cubes with fins all around them. The .pdf file from Huntington Electric for their Aluminum Housed Chassis Mount Resistors recommends a 5" x 7" x 0.040" aluminum chassis mount for both the 25 and 50 watt resistors. If you just solder the wires and leave the resistor hanging or tied up, it will not live very long at the maximum rated capacity. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted February 22, 2004 Report Share Posted February 22, 2004 The .pdf file from Huntington Electric for their Aluminum Housed Chassis Mount Resistors recommends a 5" x 7" x 0.040" aluminum chassis mount for both the 25 and 50 watt resistors. If you just solder the wires and leave the resistor hanging or tied up, it will not live very long at the maximum rated capacity. Kevin, thanks for the tip. I'll have to consider this if I end up replacing my struts. I keep oscillating between just having the mounts done (that's what's speaking, I'm 99% positive) or doing new struts too. They've got 128k on them, but they still damp well and I'm very pleased with the handling and ride. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maydog Posted February 22, 2004 Report Share Posted February 22, 2004 Hello, I wouldn't worry too much about the wattage. The RMS value and duty cycle of the CVRSS should be quite low. Others had just run into problems when they tried a 1/4 watt resistor. Sorry about my website going out. Comcast has started switching my IP every so often now - I believe to keep traffic off my ip. It remained the same for over a year but not anymore. I am still friving with my passive suspension with no problems. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted February 22, 2004 Report Share Posted February 22, 2004 I keep oscillating between just having the mounts done (that's what's speaking, I'm 99% positive) or doing new struts too. They've got 128k on them, but they still damp well and I'm very pleased with the handling and ride. A new set of stabilizer bushings or isolators cured a front end clunk on a friend's 115K mile 1996 STS. The old ones were still intact, but somewhat compressed; the improvement to the front end was astonishing! I had a similar result with my aunt's 1991 STS (same suspension). The previous owner replaced the struts, presumably for the same noise. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted February 22, 2004 Report Share Posted February 22, 2004 A new set of stabilizer bushings or isolators cured a front end clunk on a friend's 115K mile 1996 STS. The old ones were still intact, but somewhat compressed; the improvement to the front end was astonishing! I had a similar result with my aunt's 1991 STS (same suspension). The previous owner replaced the struts, presumably for the same noise. Ours has a squawk sound coming from the upper area of the driver side strut. The strut mounts (the upper bearing plates) have been replaced before at the dealership, and I'm convinced that at least the driver side needs it again. Judging from others' experiences on this forum, this problem isn't all that uncommon. It doesn't do it much in normal driving, except for when we go over large heaves in the road, where there's a "slow and steady" wheel travel. The normal jumps and jiggles of everyday pavement don't really affect it. Plus, I can put all my weight on the front of the car (on the front bumper pads) and jounce the car and clearly hear the "err-eee-err-eee" from the driver side strut area. We took it to the dealer and in 15 mins., came back with a "bad strut" diagnosis. The receipt I have from when this was done previously (when my mother owned the car), it stated they used chassis ears to pinpoint the problem. I don't think they did that this time...just said, "a noise---gotta be the strut". The struts aren't leaking and the noise doesn't occur all the time, which I'm positive it WOULD if it were the strut itself that was bad. I think it's just a dry mount (bearing). I posed the question a little while ago...if updated (improved) mounts were available (and didn't get the impression that there were). These have only been on the car for 50k miles or so (the noise has been occuring for at least a year, off and on). For that track record, I might as well go aftermarket, and at least have a lifetime parts warranty. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted February 22, 2004 Report Share Posted February 22, 2004 Ours has a squawk sound coming from the upper area of the driver side strut. The strut mounts (the upper bearing plates) have been replaced before at the dealership, and I'm convinced that at least the driver side needs it again. Usually, those will start to creak and groan when the front wheels are turned at low speeds. Eventually, they'll get stiff enough to hamper the return of the steering to centre. The struts aren't leaking and the noise doesn't occur all the time, which I'm positive it WOULD if it were the strut itself that was bad. Is it temperature or moisture sensitive? Is grease reaching the balljoint? I recall seeing an update for some 1994 strut mounts, but it was for a "loose lumber" type noise. The front stabilizer bar bushings/isolators are capable of making a groan/creak during large amplitude motions, mostly at cold ambients. The '96+ cars would have had the revised parts from the factory, but at 128K, they could be worn, allowing the bar to "slip". ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted February 23, 2004 Report Share Posted February 23, 2004 Mine's already received new stabilizer bar links. Not sure on the bushings. I'm sure they need replacing, because they will knock around a bit on a cold morning. Otherwise all is fine. The squawk noise is definitely in the upper strut area. I have a rumbling/groaning when I turn the wheel at slow speeds, and I've heard of people curing it with new strut mounts, and others have had to put on a new rack. Overall, I'm not impressed with the front end on this car. Hopefully new strut mounts will fix many of the issues. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dloch Posted February 23, 2004 Report Share Posted February 23, 2004 Usually, those will start to creak and groan when the front wheels are turned at low speeds. Eventually, they'll get stiff enough to hamper the return of the steering to centre.Is it temperature or moisture sensitive? Is grease reaching the balljoint? Mine creak and groan when the front wheels are turned at low speed. With regards to them getting stiff enough to hamper the return of the steering to center I agree, I also believe it will have an impact on small steering changes while driving... the reason I say this is that I can feel binding or extra effort required in the steering wheel and then it will act like the wheel gets a boost. The boost I am assuming is when the PCM kicks in the power steering if the driver effort is to high. Whether that is done with the pressure transducer in the power steering line or if mine is just screwed up I can't tell you that. I generally feel this in the morning when going to work and the car has sat outside in the cold weather here in michigan. After the car has warmed up I don't seem to feel it, or, it's not as pronounced. I am going to change the suspension mount insolator and bearing when I change struts at which time I will bea able to tell if that is where it was coming from or not. Dennis Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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