Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

2001 Eldorado Overheating


hms200

Recommended Posts


  • Replies 139
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Yes, both hoses are equally hot and equally under pressure. Side-by-Side boiling water test of new and old stat resolved nothing...both operated as they should...put new one in and moved on. New cap currently is only replacement part unproven, which should prove itself one way or the other when I do highway test, probably later today.

I did note the point raised by another gentleman to be cautious that added pressure to cooling system from a new rad core could blow a side tank. I will most likely wait then for the radiator shop test before replacing the rad. It's still boxed up so I can even still return it if not needed.

I did note something new for me that pushes me even closer to HG's confirmation. After my simple side roads test (this is actually very first time I've even driven the car since I bought it because no tags...I had to get insurance, then go xfer the title and then get temp tags even for this little road test) that didn't overheat, I shut off engine for 5 minutes and then restarted. Prior to shutting it off the tailpipes were dry. After starting it back up and reving to 2500 rpm's twice, all four tailpipes had small amount of water accumulated at end of tailpipes. Not good...no way I can associate that with condensation as I had done before. The road test would certainly have removed all condensation and sitting only 5 minutes wouldn't have accumulated any in such a short time...wasn't even cool yet. So as I see it...only one place that water came from gents. I'm really not at all hard headed guys. This is just baffling to get teaser signs of HG's rather than in your face, hair on fire evidence. :)

That car sure rode like a dream though...massive power and responsiveness...great ride...no jerks, rattles or sloppy handling...great car!! I'm in CO and the car has lived in CO as well all it's life...so zero rust anywhere and garaged all its life. Paint is mint...not a scratch or dent anywhere. Former owner was in mid-late 70's if that tells you anything. :) Even the leather and interior are near mint...a great find...low mileage for it's age and was a one owner car at that, with all service performed at one caddy dealership its entire life.

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That moisture at the tail pipe does not alarm me unless you smell coolant from it. I used to get a puddle from my tail pipes long before the head gasket ever went

Are you sure you do not have an exhaust smell from the tank?

If this car has been well maintained by the dealer, even more the reason to get a second opinion on by products in the coolant

The year 2000 through 2003 Northstar got stronger head bolts, and they were upgraded again in 2004

This is odd because when my head gasket went bad, I had a misfire, till it warmed up as coolant fouled the plug and I had a misfire in adjoining cylinders 1 and 3 if I recall

Let us know how the road test goes, watch the gage, see if it boils,

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That moisture at the tail pipe does not alarm me unless you smell coolant from it. I used to get a puddle from my tail pipes long before the head gasket ever went

If this car has been well maintained by the dealer, even more the reason to get a second opinion on by products in the coolant

The year 2000 Northstar got stronger head bolts

Let us know how the road test goes

Thank you BBF on the puddles info...noted and filed away. :) Nope, still no coolant smell that I could detect. My Deville is 2000...this Eldorado is a 2001. I believe they have identical Northstar's other than model differences and a few external engineering changes, like abandoning the water cooled alternator concept. Right? I actually had to replace the alternator on my Deville not so long ago...that was fun. :) Point I had made in one prior post on results from compression test that still has me baffled if gaskets really are blown. All 8 plugs were in near pristine condition, though I could clearly see that they were not new/recent replaced. There was no oil, not white and had no flaking or charcoal...any/all being just another classic possible sign of HG's from all my past experience. Agree? Yes, I know...radiator shop test needed. :) Was just rethinking all past observations and how this issue can hide in so many different ways...amazing.

Followup highway test upcoming when time permits (today/tomorrow)...yes, will share the results...thank you sir.

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep your fingers crossed, this does not sound like a HG problem to me, until the coolant test confirms it

Keep in mind that if the cap is releasing at 8 psi, you will lose system pressure it wont get up to 16 psi and the hose will feel hard, and it will boil at a lower temp and you will lose coolant out of the overflow.

How many miles on this 2001?

I dont recall, do you smell exhaust in the coolant tank, or coolant around the engine when its running? There are places that the cooling system can leak like the heater pipes and crossover seals

One other thing, if I can find the post I will link you, someone found a problem with their muffler system that caused overheating, Ill do a search

How sure are you that the water pump belt is good and tight?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dam I have a hell of a memory for this stuff, but I can't remember my daughters birth date, laugh.gif

Here is the thread regarding a muffler system obstruction, can't say this is your problem, but its good to store and research, this link will take you to page 3, read down from there

http://caddyinfo.ipb...=1entry167471

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the combustion by products test turns up negative, you might want to test the muffler system for excessive back pressure, there are testers that you buy that you screw into the O2 sensor port

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Moisture drips from both of my exhaust pipes in cool weather, until the engine has warmed up.

On both my Cadillac and on my Chevy truck.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

But-But you're in DFW Texas Jim...moisture capital of the US (outide of Houston Spa). :) I'm a native Texan (DFW also) so I can say this...we spit water from our tail pipes on tailgaters in Texas!! LOL Saves the trouble of pulling our shotgun or baseball bat from our back window gun rack. (jokingggg) Colorado is dryyyyy climate, so surprised me a bit, but thanks guys for telling me to not focus anything on that necessarily. Was just one of many observations that I've logged. Being a rookie at the Northstar HG's has me looking at everything with an extra keen eye. I'm actually enjoying the troubleshooting and am amazed at how much knowledge and insight I've already absorbed from all efforts and from all info I'm ontaining from all you smart guys...wow. Part of a "project" for me is not just in the fix...it's also in the hunt and thirst for new knowledge along the way...understanding not just the what, but also the how and why. My wife and daughters tell me I'm slow with repairs. Why? Because I pause to marvel at things along the way. Simple oil change...why not also look at other things while under the car as I watch the oil drain? :)

One of my past projects (still have it) was restoring a really beautiful Jaguar (a barn find so to speak) with VERY low mileage (only 38K original miles - proven) that had been passed down three generations within original owner family. It had ALWAYS been garaged and babied, but over time of such light use the years took their toll on many secret little parts/pieces throughout the fine speciman of English engineering. Talk about joy in the hunt...great fun and awesome old school engineering that was far ahead of its time. It even still had its original factory tires with still near perfect tread...though terribly dry rotted. It was clean as a whistle, original factory paint to die for, and an engine compartment (airplane engine and all) that was near spotless as the day it rolled off assembly line...no rust whatsoever under all that dust of time. A true beauty and now in perfect working order from all aspects after 12 months of loving restoration. Found same kind of web forum as here for Jaguars with VERY nice and helpful gents all over the world. I would get near immediate replies. One "bloke" in England even went to his local Classic Jag NOS source for me there in his town (face to face) to discuss some impossible to find parts I needed. Well, the dude came thru for me and the needed parts were shipped to me direct from England...brand new (NOS) parts in perfect condition and still in their original OEM packaging...and priced VERY reasonable on top of all. I retained that contact and is to this day a source for me when all else fails here in the states. Found that beauty in Hawaii, of all places, while I lived there and that's a marvel in itself that there was no rust...validation that it saw little road time and was protected/sheltered all its life. Neadless to say, it traveled with me here to Colorado when I moved back...to my wife's dismay I might add. :) It had lived exclusive in Hawaii all its life prior to now since shipped to Hawaii Jag dealer from England. One also would be shocked by low little I actually paid for it, which was why I couldn't walk away when I stumbled upon it purely by chance. My common sense at the time had said RUN, given all the funky little issues I saw as I inspected it. But my "Tool Time" grunt overruled my common sense at the time, and it proved to have been a "diamond blue" (its color) pearl under all the external dust of time. It's not a true "Classic" collector model (XJ6) from the perspective of true Jag collectors, but hey, it's MINE. :)

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep your fingers crossed, this does not sound like a HG problem to me, until the coolant test confirms it

Keep in mind that if the cap is releasing at 8 psi, you will lose system pressure it wont get up to 16 psi and the hose will feel hard, and it will boil at a lower temp and you will lose coolant out of the overflow.

How many miles on this 2001?

I dont recall, do you smell exhaust in the coolant tank, or coolant around the engine when its running? There are places that the cooling system can leak like the heater pipes and crossover seals

One other thing, if I can find the post I will link you, someone found a problem with their muffler system that caused overheating, Ill do a search

How sure are you that the water pump belt is good and tight?

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Current Mileage - 113K

Dealership performed GM Ceritifed Tranny Replacement - 93K

Dealership performed Piston Slap Block Rebuild - 98K

No exhaust smell in the tank that I could detect and no smell of coolant anywhere else that I could determine (even defrost), until it would boil from the tank obviously. My sniffer will be very active again though for my next highway road test. :)

Water Pump belt is tight and appears in perfect condition and working order. Was one of the first things I looked at. I will look it over again though since focus/questions continue to return there on belt tension and tensioner pully by a number of you. Obviously that's a weak suspect area since many of you have questioned that key area of the cooling system. I may have overlooked something or given it far too quick of a look-see...no waste or shame whatsoever in double checking key things, so I'll look again.

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dealership performed Piston Slap Block Rebuild - 98K

Opps, now that concerns me, that is 15,000 miles ago. I would think they would have removed the heads to do that job. Once the heads are removed, the block MUST be timeserted OR, it is doubtful that the repair will last 12 months or 12,000 miles. If they removed the heads it was MANDATORY that they timeserted the block.

You took this car to the dealer, was it the same dealer that did the piston slap block rebuild? I suspect that they replaced the pistons at that point, that was common for some reason on the 2000.

Can you question the dealer as to whether or not they timeserted the block? That is an important question,

If they didnt timesert the block your next question is, WHY NOT?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the combustion by products test turns up negative, you might want to test the muffler system for excessive back pressure, there are testers that you buy that you screw into the O2 sensor port

Thx for the link BBF...will definitely study it for info/knowledge sake, and even moreso if the radiator shop test to come proves negative. I felt zero back pressure or restriction on my test drive the other day...it ran like a bat out of @!&&...but maybe it has even more power lerking behind a potato up its tail pipe. :)

Oh...another funky repair I made recently on the 2000 Deville were replacing both crank sensors. Bingo...instantly fixed the bazaar occassional stall at red lights that I'd been experincing from time to time for a few weeks. I think these Northstars must have so many compensating measures built into them that it's really tough to nail down issues with definitive certainty, as can be done with most other vehicles. Almost ghostly at times...nasty little gremlins under the hood. :) Sure glad you experienced Caddy pro's are around!!

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

....Point I had made in one prior post on results from compression test that still has me baffled if gaskets really are blown.

If I can find the comment, I will post what our old GURU had to say about compression tests ( the GURU was a GM Powertrain development engineer).

Much more reliable and informative is a time consuming labor intensive cylinder leak down test which involves applying shop air (125 psi) to each cylinder at compression TDC and checking for bubbles in the coolant reservoir or air escaping through the tail pipes. Hand crank the next cylinder to compression TDC and repeat. If I can find one (or snap a new one) I will post a picture of the spark plug air adapter.

Is it any wonder the combustion byproduct sniffer test in the coolant reservoir air space is so popular?

Just another headsup. Be sure the top and bottom plastic closeout panels are in place. Those panels are critical parts of the condenser/radiator air flow management system.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well now, I find this GM timesert procedure over on cadillacowners posted by AJ. Its a very good summary

I did find this statement however, about when GM feels timserting is necessary, see document2.PDF at the end of this thread

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/122133-gms-northstar-timesert-procedure.html

I am not sure that we all here agree with the following statement, we are of the opinion that ALL bolt holes must be timeserted, GM feels only holes where the bolt had aluminum on them along with adjacent holes need timeserting.... hmmm,

Head Bolt Thread Repairs

When disassembling the engine, all head bolt threads should be inspected as they are removed. If

there is any section of the aluminum block thread on the bolt, that hole will need a Time Sert repair.

Typically, all the cylinder head bolt holes do not need Time Serts. The recommendation is to do a

thread repair on the damaged hole(s) and the adjacent holes. As the clamp load is relieved from one

hole (threads pulling), the adjacent holes threads load will increase and may be damaged during

reassembly.

There have been some comments about Time Serts pulling out of the block in a short time after a

repair was done. The manufacture of the insert also makes a larger size insert. This larger size insert

cannot be used for warranty repairs. Due to the increased O.D. of this sert, it’s possible that when

installing this larger sert that it will break out in the water jacket causing a coolant leak.

The most likely reason that a Time Sert pulls out after installation is that the incorrect J tools were

used for the model year application. If the incorrect tool is used, installation of the sert could be

either too deep in the hole or not deep enough. The table below lists which tool should be used for

which model years.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HMS, I liked your statement where you said you just pondered/inspected the engine when you did an oil change, that is me also. My wife hates that I change my own oil, but I love it, it gets me under the car and hood to look things over, to inspect, check, etc..

I love the Northstar, its a thing of beauty

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dealership performed Piston Slap Block Rebuild - 98K

Opps, now that concerns me, that is 15,000 miles ago. I would think they would have removed the heads to do that job. Once the heads are removed, the block MUST be timeserted OR, it is doubtful that the repair will last 12 months or 12,000 miles. If they removed the heads it was MANDATORY that they timeserted the block.

You took this car to the dealer, was it the same dealer that did the piston slap block rebuild? I suspect that they replaced the pistons at that point, that was common for some reason on the 2000.

Can you question the dealer as to whether or not they timeserted the block? That is an important question,

If they didnt timesert the block your next question is, WHY NOT?

Exactly right BBF. I raised that very issue/concern/question sometime back in my posts, thus my somewhat distrust for the HG diagnosis from them. If the rebuild was done to dealer/GM spec, then yes, timeserts for all 20 bolts were mandated by GM technical release order. Yes, the heads were definitely pulled because all piston were replaced. I can't find the shop receipt (still looking) now that I received from original owner, but my initial review then don't recall any mention of timeserts. But...at that time I wasn't even aware of HB history, so I wasn't specifically looking for that. I did question strongly how/why there could be a HG failure after only 15K miles (made zero sense at that time) and I did confirm with the dealer service department that heads definitely would have been replaced. They didn't have their original mechanic job notes to reference specifics with the job...just their posted service record that was far less detailed. My shop receipt from original owner was three pages long if I recall correctly...very long list of parts replaced. So yes, I feel certain that it would be noted if it was performed. Also, somebody in a prior post (Ranger?) suggested that perhaps the original owner may have declined the timeserts. The rebuild was done under a service policy whereby owner did have to pay a certain percentage, but doubtful he or dealer would have agreed to go against GM directive unless mechanic simply bypassed that step and said nothing.

Yes...same dealer serviced the vehicle entire life for original owner (was a one owner car when I bought it), also performed the tranny replacement, also performed the rebuild, also provided the blown HG diagnosis, also sold the owner a new replacement caddy on the same day I bought this one off him, also attempted to buy it from owner in trade-in for $1K. I've tried to give dealership the benefit of doubt here by attempting so hard to prove it IS as they diagnosed...blown HG's. It's a two edge sword though...if not then they lied or were at the least negligent in their diagnosis and/or attempted the steal the car from him for a song in trade-in. If true then it remains to be seen if they were negligent in their rebuild by failing to timesert the heads. Best case for them is that I must bust it open and then find twenty shiny new timeserts installed, whereby some of them simply failed, as I've read clearly can happen from GM recommended timeserts solution. It would be proof that they at least attempted to perform the job by GM mandated spec and common sense. Impossible for me to believe that certified Caddy mechanics are not aware of the HG history every bit as much as all of us, if not more so, as I've stated before.

As to questions raised by several of you here on if I can go to or call the dealership as to what they did or did actually not do. I already went down that road and all they have are the generic, brief entries made in the GM service records database. Service Manager siad they don't retain the personal hand written mechanic notes associated with specific repairs once paid for and out of the shop. Do I believe that? Warranty returns would tend to say that's a bad practice at best from my perspective. The rest I'll leave to each one of you here to draw your own conclusion. :) I GOTTA find that darn original service receipt!! It's here somewhere...can't for the life of me understand where it vanished. The prior owner actually came across it later after the sell and mailed it to me a few months back. It was a gold mine of info and I'm sure hold solid answers to a number of things based on the level of new insight I have today that didn't exist when I first reviewed it.

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HMS, I liked your statement where you said you just pondered/inspected the engine when you did an oil change, that is me also. My wife hates that I change my own oil, but I love it, it gets me under the car and hood to look things over, to inspect, check, etc..

I love the Northstar, its a thing of beauty

Yep...I too have a love affair developing with the Northstar as my knowledge of her grows more each day.

Yep...I've read just about everything published to date (seems that way anyway) on this the darn HB issue, thread repair options/solutions and all the pros/cons on the timesert solution, and across the different years (varied depth and such). I hadn't read the piece you found though on GM's documented position of just repairing subject threads and their immediate adjoining sisters. Now that's just downright scary and to a degree negligent in my opinion, but oh so typical of a conservative position where warranty work is most likely at play and cost being carried by GM. GM service bulletins I believe are based more on warranty repairs that cost them rather than on the true welfare of the Caddy owner, post-warranty period (true I think for ALL mfg's...not just GM). If GM was sincerely concerned about this issue long-term then I believe they would have done a full recall with a defined repair to last lifetime of the car/engine. Shame on GM for this...gold mine for the dealers and ASE certified experts out there for years to come...pity upon us, the loving owners that simply want a sweet ride. I love fixing cars...but this one will kind of exceed my wildest expectations if I indeed have the dreaded HB's. :) But...I'll grit my teeth and dive right in if so and most likely come away with a great story and as smart as all of you are, busted knuckles and all...LOL Gotta love it, and yes the wives will never understand our grunting at such things...ROFL

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dam I have a hell of a memory for this stuff, but I can't remember my daughters birth date, laugh.gif

Go back, find a thread posted on your daughter's birth date, and you will remember the latter forever. :D

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

....Point I had made in one prior post on results from compression test that still has me baffled if gaskets really are blown.

If I can find the comment, I will post what our old GURU had to say about compression tests ( the GURU was a GM Powertrain development engineer).

Much more reliable and informative is a time consuming labor intensive cylinder leak down test which involves applying shop air (125 psi) to each cylinder at compression TDC and checking for bubbles in the coolant reservoir or air escaping through the tail pipes. Hand crank the next cylinder to compression TDC and repeat. If I can find one (or snap a new one) I will post a picture of the spark plug air adapter.

Is it any wonder the combustion byproduct sniffer test in the coolant reservoir air space is so popular?

Just another headsup. Be sure the top and bottom plastic closeout panels are in place. Those panels are critical parts of the condenser/radiator air flow management system.

Yep...Ranger raised the leak down test to me earlier and described it. But I don't think he mentioned bubbles...seems he spoke to pressure loss, which suggested to me that I didn't have proper test gear to perform such. If there is a special spark plug adapter and bubbles are what we'd be looking for then that may yet be within my abilities to perform. I'll watch for more info from you on that if not already posted (working the replies in order of psoting if you can't tell. :))

"Just another headsup. Be sure the top and bottom plastic closeout panels are in place. Those panels are critical parts of the condenser/radiator air flow management system."

Please explain? Plastic closeout panels? The flex sealers on each side? Everything on this vehicle is in near mint (except for the BS reassembly omissions I've found so far that the jack wagon mechanic left undone or jerry-rigged from the block rebuild...elec tape seal attempt of a cracked L hose end on emissions hose as examples) condition and in place...nothing is missing.

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep...Ranger raised the leak down test to me earlier and described it. But I don't think he mentioned bubbles...seems he spoke to pressure loss, which suggested to me that I didn't have proper test gear to perform such.

Yes he did. I said pump up the cylinder with shop air and if the HG is breached the pressure will drop and air will enter the water jacket (exactly like the exhaust gases) and "the bubbles will eventually make their way back to the surge tank".

The close out panels Jim is talking about is the splash shield under the car and the plastic cover over the radiator support. They ensure that air entering the grill is forced through the condenser and radiator rather than taking the path of least resistance down and out under the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dam I have a hell of a memory for this stuff, but I can't remember my daughters birth date, laugh.gif

Go back, find a thread posted on your daughter's birth date, and you will remember the latter forever. biggrin.gif

So true! :lol:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep...Ranger raised the leak down test to me earlier and described it. But I don't think he mentioned bubbles...seems he spoke to pressure loss, which suggested to me that I didn't have proper test gear to perform such.

Yes he did. I said pump up the cylinder with shop air and if the HG is breached the pressure will drop and air will enter the water jacket (exactly like the exhaust gases) and "the bubbles will eventually make their way back to the surge tank".

The close out panels Jim is talking about is the splash shield under the car and the plastic cover over the radiator support. They ensure that air entering the grill is forced through the condenser and radiator rather than taking the path of least resistance down and out under the car.

Ah...thx Ranger for the clarification. I'll be sure to reinstall the top cover then because it's been off since initial outer skin tear down for troubleshooting. Haven't touched the under side splash shield...so it's in place.

Sorry for the bubbles misquote from you. :) Was going off memory...but hey, at least I remembered that it was you to advise me on that test. :)

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep...Ranger raised the leak down test to me earlier and described it. But I don't think he mentioned bubbles...seems he spoke to pressure loss, which suggested to me that I didn't have proper test gear to perform such. If there is a special spark plug adapter and bubbles are what we'd be looking for then that may yet be within my abilities to perform. I'll watch for more info from you on that....

You might have more than bubbles. Read post #38 again.

The picture is a home-made shop air to spark plug adapter.

The far right fitting is a spark plug with the porcelin punched out.

Next is a short fitting in the hole that you tap with the appropriate threads.

Next is a coupling to adapt the short fitting to a flexible (grease gun extention) hose.

The other end of the flexible hose is adapted to shop air fittings.

th_Sparkplugairadapter.jpg

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep...Ranger raised the leak down test to me earlier and described it. But I don't think he mentioned bubbles...seems he spoke to pressure loss, which suggested to me that I didn't have proper test gear to perform such. If there is a special spark plug adapter and bubbles are what we'd be looking for then that may yet be within my abilities to perform. I'll watch for more info from you on that....

You might have more than bubbles. Read post #38 again.

The picture is a home-made shop air to spark plug adapter.

The far right fitting is a spark plug with the porcelin punched out.

Next is a short fitting in the hole that you tap with the appropriate threads.

Next is a coupling to adapt the short fitting to a flexible (grease gun extention) hose.

The other end of the flexible hose is adapted to shop air fittings.

th_Sparkplugairadapter.jpg

Pretty cleaver homemade fitting...

Ok well...as promised, results from highway road test...

Results: Um...would you believe a split/crack in the lower underside of the coolant collection tank? Yep...very fine little squirt coming out down near the clamped bottom hose. No overheating whatsoever because I didn't allow it to go dry.

Ok, so that's something...and it makes total sense!! So...obviously next step is to replace the tank and then do further testing from there. I don't believe excessive pressure could have blown the tank, because the pressure relief cap would have or should have prevented that. But...the old cap did allow boil out. So, if I'm to speculate on what was happening before with prior owner I'd guess a combination of weak cap and the crack...both combined not allowing proper pressure to be retained and the associated coolant loss. I replaced the cap and that then moved sole issue to just the crack.

Can this cracked tank be associated with excessive pressure from blown HG's? To me it doesn't seem so since old cap allowed boil out and new cap is properly pressure rated and it's NOT boiling. My logic make any sense? Anybody have any personal thoughts or insight on this?

HMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tanks have been known to crack, I replaced mine.

Interesting, you replaced the cap and the tank showed a crack....hmm

That might mean that the old cap was not holding pressure. You are correct, if the HG was putting excessive pressure into the tank it would blow of at the set PSI, so no, a bad HG did not blow the tank

Replace the tank and lets go from there, new tank, new cap..... cross your fingers

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...