steveo412 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 thank u logan,if the fpr and map sensor doesnt fix the problem,i will have a garge test the cat,if the cat is cloged i will buy a aftermarket one and weld it on myself,i still feel good about finding this issue,cause i dont want it to burn up like it did on him,i have 2 kids that will be in this car,so i cant stop till its right,all this info really helps me out,thanks steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 you checked the FPR vacuum line with the motor off? start the car and disconnect it. should still run ok. never seen gas spray out the FPR nipple fitting. you have updated steel fuel rail which is good. an older plastic version can leak externally and gas could pool on top of motor. that could cause fire. or you could have a bad injector o-ring. that might cause an external fuel leak which could lead to fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo412 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 ok i checked the fpr today again runing the car this time and no gas is coming out,no drips,,can we rule that out yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 ok i checked the fpr today again runing the car this time and no gas is coming out,no drips,,can we rule that out yet? Did you rev the engine with the hose off? Its either the FPR, a badly leaking injector or a clogged exhaust/cat. You just need to figure it out. The next test would be to remove the fuel injector rail, prop it up so you can see the bottom of the injectors and pressurize them by turning on the key, (DONT START), you should not see dripping Then as logan said, check the exhaust for back pressure. But you have a new FPR coming, I'd just change it to eliminate that possibility Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo412 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 ok i just got done checking the injectors,i took the 4 bolts and lifted it up so i could check them all,i turned the key to on ,,and none of them leak,,the o rings dont look real good a couple of them look like thay have tiny rips in them,,i will get them at the napa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 ok i just got done checking the injectors,i took the 4 bolts and lifted it up so i could check them all,i turned the key to on ,,and none of them leak,,the o rings dont look real good a couple of them look like thay have tiny rips in them,,i will get them at the napa OK good, you can use an O2 safe lube (no silicone) to lube them to help re-seat the injectors, do NOT attempt to clean the injector tips no matter how dirty they look, don't touch them at all and be gentle reinstalling the rail. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlaValentine Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 The clogged cat sounds like a very good possibility to me. My concern as far as that goes though is finding out WHY the cat got clogged. If you don't eliminate what caused it, then you will end up ruining a new one if you put one on it. That brings us back to the fact that a rich fuel mix will cause fuel to ignite in the cat and ruin it...which of course leads us back to figuring out where the rich fuel mixture is coming from. It's kind of a catch-22. I say you are heading in the right direction with tracking down the fuel issue, and I personally wouldn't install a new cat until you have that taken care of. My advice: Change the injector o-rings, change the FPR, change the MAP sensor, then clear the codes and see if your rich fuel code comes back. If it does, then back to square one. If it doesn't, then I would change the cat, and you should be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 we keep saying "do this, do that". but you have not really said how car is running now? you ran car and checked FPR for leakage. so motor is running. does it idle poorly? or seem to run ok? if your MAP was bad, i think you would get a code. is your cat red now? you have to have some O2 sensor codes with a red cat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I agree Joe, the best threads are ones where there is a detailed give and take. It gets frustrating when posts are not responded to or addressed, because you get to a point where you stop posting because the continuity is lost. Steve, this is not a criticism at all, but you need to start to read posts and respond directly to them. Sitting on this side of the key board it is like being blind with a white cane and playing guessing games or assuming when the communication is bad. We have a member who was diagnosing an overheating problem that eventually turned into a timesert job that is HORRIBLE at communication and I lost my mind a couple of weeks ago. I got so angry because I was NOT getting definitive answers to my suggestions or questions and finally shot off a string of CAP filled anger laced posts. He decided NOT to check what I suggested because he checked it before but did NOT tell me if he checked if said to himself, FU, I posted that previously in another thread and let me hang.... I have stopped helping him because he is impossible to communicate with clearly, makes assumptions and spells poorly. Its too much brain damage and it gets frustrating. So that member is not helping his cause for whatever reason, and its not just me who flees those types of threads. I tend to take on difficult threads with a bull dog tenacity till it becomes futile, i.e. The Fred, is a good example. Keep in mind that when you post here, you have LOTS of members following it. If we say check or test XYZ, you say ok I checked or, I did XYZ and the results were such and such, good bad, etc... that is easy to follow. When posts are ignored and you respond, where do I go from here, we are like, HUH?, There is another member who is very frustrating also, who I recently pulled my hair out with. I am not sure if its a poor writing style, no writing style, carelessness, no organization, members not taking time in posting, a young baseball cap wearing yute who last had a Honda I am dealing with, or pardon me, a lack of of intelligence or poor education. But poor communication is not helpful to getting good and organized answers. Try to respond more directly to members posts with detailed, believe it or not we are trying to help, we all have something to offer and we feed off your responses to help diagnose a problem. This is not meant to demean or anger you, you are dealing with a difficult challenge and the better we communicate the easier it will be for you and us. Reread your post before you hit POST and use paragraphs and a spelling checker. The function of paragraphs is to keep 'like or similar' ideas and information together. You have probably heard of the GURU. He often said that he frequented this forum because he wanted to improve his writing skills. If a designer of the Northstar Platform could need to or want to improve his writing skills, I think we ALL can work on our writing skills. I miss the Guru. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlaValentine Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 we keep saying "do this, do that". but you have not really said how car is running now? you ran car and checked FPR for leakage. so motor is running. does it idle poorly? or seem to run ok? if your MAP was bad, i think you would get a code. is your cat red now? you have to have some O2 sensor codes with a red cat. When he originally posted his codes he did have one for the MAP sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo412 Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 first things first,if u read the post u would see i had a map sensor code,and if u read more u would see i didnt replace any parts yet,the parts are on there way,,so how was it going to run better and i didnt even do anything?,i just checked everything u guys said!the car still glows red,i didnt post any o2 codes!all my codes where posted earlier,the car runs but who drives a car with a red cat to see how it runs,yes it starts but revs high,i appreciate u guys trying to help me,but dont insult me,,im trying my best to post whats goin on,,lets leave this post be and no longer need any help,,thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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