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Anyone use a Jasper Reman Engine??


tm8272

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My questions is has anyone used a Jasper reman engine and if so what is there experience and how many miles have they gotten on it?? How did the head bolts hold up?? It does have a 3yr 100,000 mile warranty but just curious if anyone went this route??

After a year of my 94 Seville setting in my garage I finally decided to replace engine with a remanufactured Jasper engine this week. I bought this car with 46k miles back in 1999 and now has 194,000. The body is in great shape and interior so I was on the fence for about a year trying to decide if I should replace engine or scrape car. I have other vehicles to drive and it wasnt an urgent issue. This has been the best car I have ever owned. I have rented new Chevy Malibu and researched other vehicles this year and nothing compares. I was surprised at how the new cars dont have power trunk and luxury ride and handling package and more. I took these things for granted til I started comparing and pricing used cars and looking at new and having a payment. Also with a new vehicle the insurance costs go up. So dropping 6500 with a Jasper reman engine including install labor. It has a 3yr or 100,000 mile warranty so if I can get another 3yrs out of this car I will be happy. By that time maybe they will make something I will be excited about buying. :D

I thought about doing the Northstar Performance stud kit in Canada but with 194,000 miles I figured it is about time to redo entire engine. I have used full synethic oil since 60,000 miles so maybe why it lasted so long? It still started but had rough idle from head gasket issue. Dealer did a dye test and compression and told me bad heads to get a used engine. Not taking a chance on a used engine. I talked to a salesman at the local Cadillac dealer when I looked at buying a newer used Cadillac instead of fixing mine. The guy told me he had a 97 Eldorado and had dealer redo the heads for 3500.00 and it only lasted 30,000 miles. How sad! I told him about the Northstar Performance stud kit repair and that also helped me to decide to redo my entire engine after hearing his experience.

A local shop referred me to a guy that does head gasket repairs for 1500 but no guarantee. I decided to fix it right or not do it at all. Thanks for any feedback and info in advance!

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I have seen excelleent results with jasper engines but I have to be honest I have never heard of one being used in a cadillac platform

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I got a Jasper remanufactured engine for my 1997 Eldorado Touring Coupe in July of 2006. I have 31,500 miles on it and have absolutely no complaints. Your cost estimate is high, though. I would shop around a bit for someone who would get the engine installed with less markup or whatever. Perhaps you might call Jasper and ask them for a list of installers in your zip code.

I recommend the "installation kit" from Jasper, which is new water pump, spark plugs and wires, and all the other things that you would want to change for a new engine, all AC/Delco or OEM, no aftermarket BS. On my car, we changed the metal heater hoses that go behind the engine and all the belts and hoses. My radiator and heater core were good, as was my heater and A/C blower, etc. so we left those. You use the fuel injection and cam covers from the old engine, which eliminates minor installation issues from different years. Give Jasper your VIN, and they will give you an engine that installs with no problems.

I went the remanufactured route instead of the Timesert route because I needed the car every day at the time, my mechanic wasn't confident in a Timesert job because the dealers weren't having too good of luck with it around here back then, any my engine had other issues, such as oil light flicker at idle and oil leaks. I didn't know back then that dealer tech issues with Timesert jobs were likely due to shortcuts like not using the alignment plate, that I could probably fix the oil light flicker with a new sending unit, and that this and the oil leaks would likely be fixed during the Timesert job. But I have absolutely no complaints.

My cat was slightly clogged because of too much coolant being put through it in the previous several months, and possibly because of an oil burning problem of a couple of years before that I had solved by changing where I got my car serviced. I ended up with an OBD-certified low-restriction catalytic converter. A few months later I was rear-ended, the main damage being an old Honda sedan totaled, a scratched rear bumper, and my exhaust system wiped over to one side. Borla and Cadillac were out of stock that month with replacement or turbo mufflers and I ended up with Borla XS "mufflers" that you can see two inches of daylight through. Now, when I start my car, it turns heads. Decelerating in second gear makes a sound that takes all the starch out of macho "sport compact" hotshots that are looking for a piece of the Cadillac. And, my wife loves the sound.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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In the original poster's last paragraph he made this statement, where he LOST confidence in a NS repair.... Then he spoke about a $1500 repair that was NOT guaranteed......

The guy told me he had a 97 Eldorado and had dealer redo the heads for 3500.00 and it only lasted 30,000 miles. How sad! I told him about the Northstar Performance stud kit repair and that also helped me to decide to redo my entire engine after hearing his experience. He went on to say, A local shop referred me to a guy that does head gasket repairs for 1500 but no guarantee. I decided to fix it right or not do it at all

These experiences caused him to lose confidence in a NS repair,

It is POSSIBLE that the repair on the 97 Eldo was NOT done correctly, and I am sure that for $1500 that is not a proper repair either, given the lack of guaranty.

Please don't use those reports to create a LACK of CONFIDENCE in repairing your NS, with a proper repair done, it is not necessary to buy a remanufactured engine. The key is finding someone who is experienced with repairing the NS properly whether with timeserts or studs

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1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Thanks Jim for the information! Glad to hear you didnt get much damage from being hit. Great to hear you used a Jasper engine but not many miles on it since 2006. I will be using my car as a dilay driver again once fixed. The price includes the installation kit you mentioned and labor to do that also. Thanks again for recommending it! Maybe someone in the future reading this will make sure they get the install kit too! Jasper site priced Northstar engine at 5085.00. I called Jasper and was told the same price. I called several installers and got labor prices from 1500 to 1700. This shop faxed me an estimate for installing Jasper reman engine: Rebuilt Jasper engine 3yr 100,000 M warranty 4,368.00

labor to install engine and installation kit 1,350.00

Misc (oil & filter, Hose clamps, etc 100.00

Install kit from Jasper 343.50

sales tax 6% 288.69

Total : 6450.19

It is hard to find anything online about Jasper engines in Northstar applications. The shop that is doing the work is a listed approved installer on Jasper website. I'm in Louisville (Derby city) and I had called several other approved shops on Jaspers list and they told me they are an approved installer of Jasper engines but DO Not install Northstar engines! So I was surprised to hear that even some approved shops didnt want to install the Northstar engines because of extra tools and equipment they needed to do the job. That is what the shops told me anyway.

This shop that is doing the install has been in business 28yrs. They didnt want any money down which was surprising to me and I had AAA tow the car to there shop. They said they have done several Northstar engines this past year for several local people and have had no problems. One women was a longtime customer of shop and came back to area to have them do the Jasper engine. That was comforting to hear that she trusted them from past work they had done. I asked shop how many miles the customers were able to get on the Jasper engines. They told me that they had no idea but no complaints or issues since they did there installs. Thats why I asked the question on this site to get some feedback or experience on Jasper reman for Northstar.

I had called Jake at Northstar Performance and planned on towing my car to Canada for head gasket repair. I have a diesel dually truck and a dual axal car trailer so no problem there. Because of time and distance and needing a passport that would take weeks and other family obligations it made that option difficult. I priced shipping my car to them also. Jake also gave me name of Cadillac dealer closest to me was a 2hr drive in mid west Indiana (Terra Haute) that used his stud kit for head gasket repair. They quoted me 3500.00 and No guarantee!! I told them I also have the front seal leaking oil. How much to fix that?? They said another 2,000.00!! That would of been 5500.00. So since I had an oil leak and so many miles on my engine and based on my options and location it made sense to me to just do the Jasper engine. I could have it installed and done in less than a week and I didnt have to leave my home! Had AAA tow vehicle to shop after they faxed me a quote and I talked to them several times. Never been to shop yet. Supposed to have car done tommorrow. They did call me Friday to say they had to order 3 motor mounts that were shot. Another 135.00 for parts only. Said they will not charge me any additional labor.

The only other issue I have with vehicle is an open circuit or electrical issue that drains battery after it sits for a week. When the drivers door is open it does not shut off or on the interior lights. Also the radio and wipers would never shut off on there own (after the 10mins) so I had to make sure I manually shut those off. Not a big deal and did that for many years but now that there is a bigger drain on battery it has to be addressed. This shop has an electrician that will look at system once engine is installed. I told them I bought both volumes of Service Manuals from Helms for 125.00 about 5 years ago. They told me they subscribed to an online service manual service but just in case they might have to have me fax the electrical diagram and info in case they need additional info. I told them no problem. Hope I dont have to put a lot of money into the electrical system. They charge 75.00 an hour and said after 2 hours they should know what is going on.

I also need a sensor on front passenger side for suspension issue. ( dealer quoted 900.00) for that a year ago!! So I have a few other issues to address after engine and that is why I was on the fence to put the money into this vehicle. I knew the other few issues would have to be addressed and would cost additional money. After watching a recent show with Jay Leno and seeing him put a million into restoring an old Duesenburg car that is worth maybe half that, he said it is for the history and respect of the vehicle not a financial decision. I guess that is where I'm at with mine. Helped me make the decision to spend the money to restore my car. Will post results with my decision to restore car and how things are going with Jasper engine. Thanks again for your info!

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The bill breakdown looked OK except that you are paying for two installation kits at $300+ each. The one from Jasper or the one bundled with the installation labor is OK, but not both.

The sensors on the front passenger side are all inexpensive. He must be wanting to sell you a rotor instead of a wheel speed sensor; that one can snowball into a big job, but it's really a minor thing. Sometimes the dealer is not the best place to maintain an old car.

The schematic is a whole section of Volume 2 of the manual. You can't just FAX him a page or two, or three, or four or whatever. It's vast. If he has a subscription to a GM data service, the schematics are not what he should need. The troubleshoting charts for each OBD code and the detailed instructions on repairs are what are in your FSM that he won't have.

The power drain over a week is the puzzling one. I would put a limit on how much time and your money the guy lays on you with that one. Sometimes these are simple, sometimes not. But the problem seems to be that your PZM is not cutting off your retained accessory power or your inadvertent power, or is being turned back on by something disturbing the car, or you have a power drain on an "always on" power circuit. The best way to find these is to pull fuses and relays one at a time until the culprit is found, and that takes a lot of time. And, you can do that. The FSM can provide you with a guide. This might be a good time to start studying your FSM and learning your way around it.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Lots of good ideas and suggestions, I appreciate it. I got a message "Traction Disabled" last year and took it to the dealer and they said it was a sensor by the front passenger wheel area. At the estimated cost of (900.00) needless to say I would get another estimate elswhere. It did not seem to effect the ride and handling of the vehicle with this issue so I put it on the back burner.

I did pull out the Service Manuals today and your right, too many pages to fax! I might take a drive to shop tommorrow and check out the progress of engine install and take my volume 2 service manual. I will tell them if they go past several hours on electrical diagnosis then to wrap it up and I will do as you mentioned on checking it out. The service manual is very detailed and the more I read about the different systems the more I appreciated the work that went into these vehicles. The electrical issue is a priority to resolve for sure before the suspension sensor issue. One thing at a time I guess. I will keep my fingers crossed

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People here can walk you through finding your electrical problem.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Here is an option

I went to www.rockauto.com

They sell a "Marshall" remanufactured Northstar for $2676

I went to http://www.marshallengines.com/index.htm and it looks like they do a good job with the rebuild but it was not clear what they did with the bolt holes

I called their tech support and spoke to Jason

He spoke to their block prep area and YES, all bolt holes are timeserted. Marshall preps the block and has one experienced assembler, assemble the engine, he reportedly is a fanatic. I dont have a list of what is replaced but I asked if they replace rod and main bearings and they do. A check of their webpage should detail what is done or feel free to call them.

Jason is going to call me back if he gets more info on how many Northstar blocks are rejected, he told me that if anything is wrong with the block, its rejected. I'd love to know what percentage of blocks are rejected and what a block would be rejected for.

He did say that it is VERY important that the oil pump be primed immediately and they use a pressure primer, I told him about out method of over filling the crankcase and he knew exactly why that works as you are submerging the pump in oil. I think going forward on new rebuilds we should overfill the crankcase on first start up.

I thought our members would like an option, that is MUCH less expensive than the Jasper reman. If he calls me back, I will add more info here, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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They quoted me 3500.00 and No guarantee!! I told them I also have the front seal leaking oil. How much to fix that?? They said another 2,000.00!! That would of been 5500.00. So since I had an oil leak and so many miles on my engine and based on my options and location it made sense to me to just do the Jasper engine. I could have it installed and done in less than a week and I didnt have to leave my home! Had AAA tow vehicle to shop after they faxed me a quote and I talked to them several times. Never been to shop yet. Supposed to have car done tommorrow. They did call me Friday to say they had to order 3 motor mounts that were shot. Another 135.00 for parts only. Said they will not charge me any additional labor.

You did the right thing by steering clear of the dealer who wouldn't warranty the work. An additional $2000 to R&R the front crank seal??? I'd do them all day long in my garage for that kind of money! That seal is very easily replaced while the engine is out of the car. It can also be replaced with the engine IN the car. The rear main seal takes about 10 minutes to install with the engine out of the car using the special tool.

He did say that it is VERY important that the oil pump be primed immediately and they use a pressure primer, I told him about out method of over filling the crankcase and he knew exactly why that works as you are submerging the pump in oil. I think going forward on new rebuilds we should overfill the crankcase on first start up.

I disagree - there is no need to overfill the crankcase to prime the oil pump - that is a technique used when the relief valve sticks and there is no oil pressure - it forces the pump to prime.

The procedure in the manual states to pack the oil pump cavity with petroelum jelly. That coupled with cranking the engine for 30 seconds with the ICM disconnected makes the oil pump prime immediately upon plugging in the ICM and starting the engine.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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They quoted me 3500.00 and No guarantee!! I told them I also have the front seal leaking oil. How much to fix that?? They said another 2,000.00!! That would of been 5500.00. So since I had an oil leak and so many miles on my engine and based on my options and location it made sense to me to just do the Jasper engine. I could have it installed and done in less than a week and I didnt have to leave my home! Had AAA tow vehicle to shop after they faxed me a quote and I talked to them several times. Never been to shop yet. Supposed to have car done tommorrow. They did call me Friday to say they had to order 3 motor mounts that were shot. Another 135.00 for parts only. Said they will not charge me any additional labor.

You did the right thing by steering clear of the dealer who wouldn't warranty the work. An additional $2000 to R&R the front crank seal??? I'd do them all day long in my garage for that kind of money! That seal is very easily replaced while the engine is out of the car. It can also be replaced with the engine IN the car. The rear main seal takes about 10 minutes to install with the engine out of the car using the special tool.

He did say that it is VERY important that the oil pump be primed immediately and they use a pressure primer, I told him about out method of over filling the crankcase and he knew exactly why that works as you are submerging the pump in oil. I think going forward on new rebuilds we should overfill the crankcase on first start up.

I disagree - there is no need to overfill the crankcase to prime the oil pump - that is a technique used when the relief valve sticks and there is no oil pressure - it forces the pump to prime.

The procedure in the manual states to pack the oil pump cavity with petroelum jelly. That coupled with cranking the engine for 30 seconds with the ICM disconnected makes the oil pump prime immediately upon plugging in the ICM and starting the engine.

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I agree the additional 2,000 to R&R front seal while dealer was doing head gasket job was a joke. That's why I really wanted to take vehicle to Canada to Northstar performance, he would do that for No Additional cost while doing the stud kit!! Great deal and very cheap if I could of got the time off and towed the vehicle there and spent 3 days at a local hotel waiting. He sounds like he does a great job, distance and crossing border is huge challenge to get vehicle to him. I did call a few transporters that cross into Canada and they told me I had to get a permit for 250.00 for temporary repair work for explanation why they were taking car across Canada border, also give them title for border identification. If I towed vehicle across border I could say I'm going on vacation and no problem. So faced with those challenges I decided on the Jasper reman option. The nationwide 3yr 100,000 mile warranty (parts and labor) was a plus too! To bad Northstar Performance doesnt open a few shops in the US instead of just shipping there stud kits to other shops.

The Rock Auto Marshall reman engine is a lot cheaper price for sure. I wonder what there warranty is on that? It would be nice to have a cheaper engine replacement option. I have seen several Cadillacs in my area for sale recently for 1500.00 or 2500.00 with bad head gaskets. I'm sure if those people had a cheaper option they would fix and keep there cars. Its a tough call but when you have had a car as long as I have had mine, since 46,000 miles and always garaged and know how it was treated, it makes sense to restore it. I do miss driving my Cadillac and still impressed with how nice it looks compared to a lot of newer cars. Love the door guards in the middle of doors to keep dings off in parking lots and all the chrome and a chrome bumper!

Jim mentioned after he got his Jasper engine that he had been rear ended by a Honda I believe and it didnt do much damage to his Caddy!! That's another reason I love these big heavy cars. They are safer if you ever get in an accident than a smaller lighter vehicle.

As Cadillac owners and enthusiasts we do need more affordable options to keep our vehicles on the road longer! Thanks for all the help and input from everyone. Its nice to see people work together to help each other with a shared interest and passion in a vehicle. I will take a few pics of mine when I get it back and post it on site. It is a Gold metallic with tan leather. I was told the most popular color of that year. I believe they called it a Sandstone metallic. Any suggestions on where to get a set of new wheels reasonable for Caddy? I think I will put a new set to update it a little. I have the factory original wheels now.

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I got a Jasper because that was the best remanufactured Northstar available at the time, as best I could determine from posts and a search on Caddyinfo back in June 2006. Before I bought the Jasper I quizzed them by phone on a number of points, the first of which was the Timserts, and, yes, they Timesert every head bolt hole as part of block prep. They use head gaskets comparable or identical to currently-GM-recommended head gaskets, Perfect Circle piston rings, new pistions, a 0.5mm overbore on most or all Northstars, and a clean room environment for engine assembly. They use new cams, cam chains and sprockets, lifters, and valves, with reconditioned heads (cleaned up and valves ground, I forgot to ask about valve guides). They use new oil pumps and all engine bearings and seals. All engines are started and checked for leaks and cooling, and limited dyno testing is done; this eliminates the problem of priming the oil pump on a freshly assembled engine, although I didn't ask about that and the engines are shipped without oil.

Most importantly, the heads are torqued using a mechanized clamping force machine that provides accuracy and uniformity not possible with any manual or one-bolt-at-a-time head assembly and torqueing process.

The extra cost is in the clean-room environment and the automated assembly equipment, not the least of which is the head assembly machine and clean room, and the warranty. By reputation, Jasper's warranty is just about the best out there. If you have your engine installed by a Jasper-approved installer, they can get a replacement authorized, including labor, on the phone. An installer not known to them may take longer, possibly waiting on inspection of a returned engine or a visit to the mechanic by a Jasper representative in the area. I live in South Jersey and there is a Jasper warehouse in Philadelphia, and our area is on the daily rounds of Jasper people. But my mechanic is on Jasper's list and we made the final arrangements in a three-way phone conversation.

Because of the Jasper reputation and warranty, the service reputation, and the additional mechanized clean-room assembly process, I believe that the Jasper is worth the extra money - for me. I expect to drive my car for many years, one reason to get the best possible remanufactured engine. Another reason might be for the positive impact on resale value, but on a car over 10 years old that doesn't really compute. Your priorities, interest, and opinions may differ, of course. It's your car, your money, and your call. If the bottom line is more important than unlikely problems, then you have other options from less expensive remaufactured engines, to rebuilt engines, to used engines from a recycling yard.

Wherever you get your engine from, or worked on, you should talk with them enough so that you fully understand what you are getting and are comfortable with it before closing the deal.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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One problem I have run into with GM dealers over the years is that with old cars, if you ask for multiple repairs they will charge you the flat rate for each one separately instead of combining the work and using the clock. Iin about 1975, I asked for a dealer to replace the front springs, the A-frame bushings, and both ball joints on both sides of a seven-year-old 1969 Chevrolet station wagon, for example, and they replaced the springs and put the car back together for the flat-rate cost, wanting me to come back for "the other two jobs." I didn't. I found out quickly from another shop that the tech had twisted half-off the ball joint retaining nut on one side; the car could have dropped that ball joint on a pothole or other road hazard at any time. I had that car for seven more years, until I couldn't get parts and maintenance anymore.

One of the things that the higher cost of most dealer repairs covers is the Goodwrench warranty. On many assemblies, when you get a Goodwrench warranty, it is good for the life of the car and includes labor. That's why I bought a GM compressor from a dealer at about 95,000 miles instead of getting a much cheaper aftermarket compressor. About three years later, when the clutch started slipping, they put another new one in for free, and the warranty is still good. If a dealer won't warranty a repair, something is really fishy there.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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The Rock Auto Marshall reman engine is a lot cheaper price for sure. I wonder what there warranty is on that? It would be nice to have a cheaper engine replacement option.

Their warranty is 36 months or 100,000 miles

In addition there is an extended warranty that is available

Your Marshall engine is built to the most exacting standards by a company that meets QS9000 standards (the world's toughest quality standard) and warranted against failures in quality of parts or workmanship. And, with this extra protection all sorts of other failures will be covered as well.

With that extended coverage failure from overheating, lack of lubricant, contamination, detonation, pre-ignition, dry start, melted pistons and foreign object can be covered

I invited Jason from Marshall Engines to stop by and fill us in on how Marshall Engines builds the Northstar, I hope he stops by, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Competition is a Marvell thing. If something like the Marshall remanufactured engine had been known to me in July 2006 I would have certainly considered them, particularly with the price difference.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I will say this however, if you Google

Jasper engine complaints or Marshall engine complaints, you find a ton of scary information,

and YES, I know that the internet is a focal point of malcontent complaints, I am sure that the thousands of happy purchasers are not finding the internet to broadcast how happy they are with Jasper or Marshall.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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