stsbank Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 Hey guys. I looked behind the front driver tire because i noticed a noise every time i hit a bump on the road. The stabilizer bar link has too much play. It can be grabbed and moved up/down/ and side to side. I took a peep at rockauto part #5451052B but am not sure if its the correct length. What are the R/R procedures? 95 caddy sts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo412 Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 i had the same issue and my rubber inserts where bad!,2 bolts on each side,,,good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlaValentine Posted November 1, 2010 Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 It's an easy job in terms of simplicity, but those bolts can be a PITA to get off! I had to use a blow torch on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsbank Posted December 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 got the part changed out. I used an extra lift to relieve some of the weight for the bar. it was pretty easy doing it that way. now for the rear. I checked them out by pushing on the tire and both left and right rear tires move. Is this caused by bad rear knuckles? or shot bushings? when i go over a speed bump i can hear a clunk coming from the rear end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 Yes, rear knuckle bushings...Mine was only on the rear passenger side for some reason. I paid around $65/tax each,not a tough job,with plenty of info around here including photogs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 i used a ball joint press (c-clamp) style. the generic nature of the press forced me to remove the wheel bearing from the knuckle first. very annoying. remove bearing. remove backing plate. press out bushings. maybe the stars will line up for you and the bushings will come out easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsbank Posted December 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 i was looking at youtube videos and found this technique pretty interesting. Can the same method be used for the bushings? Where can i get the bushings? Has anyone ever gotten the ones from http://cadillacbushings.com/default.aspx? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJ5FkOoT5QE Thanks for any input. I noticed the rear end kinda sways when on the highway. is this caused by the bad bushings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted December 17, 2010 Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 lots of negative comments on poly bushings. mechanics won't touch them because they can fail. they are plastic. who would trust their life to a plastic suspension part? though i put poly bushings in my 79 camaro. no one complains about poly bushings in that application? just stick with dorman bushings thru rockauto. pretty cheap. maybe 50 a side. did you notice in the pic the knuckle is bare? no wheel bearing/backing plate installed. sure is easy to press it out that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 17, 2010 Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 I used poly strut rod bushings and they tightened up my front end directional stability, they were about 3 years old when I got rid of the car and they were perfect. I got them from this company, I used OEM control arm bushings http://www.energysuspension.com/products/Strut-Rod-Bushings.html Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsbank Posted December 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 The reason I am considering poly is because I'd like to keep the car in the best shape possible. It would be frustrating to have to go back in and do it all over again considering the wear of rubber vs polyurethane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 17, 2010 Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 I would be careful where you use poly, you dont want it to take bumps like a truck or like the old 86 Corvettes. We had an 86 Corvette and when you hit a bump it went right through to your back teeth. Replacing with OEM is not a bad option, look how long they last, I liked the poly strut rod bushings because of the pin point steering that resulted Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsbank Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 Thanks guys. Rubber OEM it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 Thanks guys. Rubber OEM it is. I would recommend poly for your strut rods, if your model has them Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 we are talking about 2 different bushings. not just materials. the knuckle bushings are metal/rubber from the factory. i would use the same type for replacement. the strut rod bushings are rubber. i used dorman knuckle bushings and they seem very durable. i looked at the strut rod bushings and they looked fine so i did not touch them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 I think my replacements are DANA(not chinese), and the OEM's had a plastic sleeve inside that for the life of me I can't figure out how they lasted as long as they did Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 If you are talking about the knuckle bushings, I would not use poly back there, there needs to be a little flex in the bushing due to the geometry change throughout the range, that is probably why they used a axial ball joint originally Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsbank Posted December 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 If you are talking about the knuckle bushings, I would not use poly back there, there needs to be a little flex in the bushing due to the geometry change throughout the range, that is probably why they used a axial ball joint originally i couldn't drive the car for the past couple of days(brother was using my car battery). Finally got it back and rev'd it for a bit and treated her to a good buffing . The ride is really bad. I can't drive past 10-15 without the car shaking bad its feels as if i was driving on a flat tire. Can the bushings be that important or am i way off the problem? thanks all of you guys for the quick response Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 19, 2010 Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 Check each tire for a broken steel belt, look for a bulge in the tread or on the inner or outer sidewall Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted December 19, 2010 Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 your thread started with a worn front sway bar link. now your rear knuckle bushings may be loose and bad enough that you cannot drive car without severe vibration? did the vibration just start? you said you had a clunk in rear but did not really mention a bad vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stsbank Posted December 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 your thread started with a worn front sway bar link. now your rear knuckle bushings may be loose and bad enough that you cannot drive car without severe vibration? did the vibration just start? you said you had a clunk in rear but did not really mention a bad vibration. After replacing the stabilizer bar link I had a flat tire that needed to be replaced so i went to a tire shop to change them out. It was fine until i drive on a bumpy road. i thought ok. its the road thats causing the vibrating. But it never stopped. The engine is great. but just to drive down the street feels like im on the bumpy road again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted December 25, 2010 Report Share Posted December 25, 2010 sometimes a worn part makes so much racket, it covers up noise from another bad part. i worked on a car where the front links were shot and a lower control bushings were also shot. fixed that and found out the rear sway bar bushings were shot too. the whole car rattled. how does your car sound on a smooth flat road? your say the tires were replaced/fixed. i assume that means all 4 were inspected or balanced at least? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.