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Stabilizer Bar Link is worn out.


stsbank

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Hey guys. I looked behind the front driver tire because i noticed a noise every time i hit a bump on the road. The stabilizer bar link has too much play. It can be grabbed and moved up/down/ and side to side. I took a peep at rockauto part #5451052B but am not sure if its the correct length. What are the R/R procedures? 95 caddy sts

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It's an easy job in terms of simplicity, but those bolts can be a PITA to get off! I had to use a blow torch on mine.

big4870885.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

got the part changed out. I used an extra lift to relieve some of the weight for the bar. it was pretty easy doing it that way. now for the rear. I checked them out by pushing on the tire and both left and right rear tires move. Is this caused by bad rear knuckles? or shot bushings? when i go over a speed bump i can hear a clunk coming from the rear end.

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Yes, rear knuckle bushings...Mine was only on the rear passenger side for some reason. I paid around $65/tax each,not a tough job,with plenty of info around here including photogs...

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i used a ball joint press (c-clamp) style. the generic nature of the press forced me to remove the wheel bearing from the knuckle first. very annoying. remove bearing. remove backing plate. press out bushings. maybe the stars will line up for you and the bushings will come out easily.

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i was looking at youtube videos and found this technique pretty interesting. Can the same method be used for the bushings? Where can i get the bushings? Has anyone ever gotten the ones from http://cadillacbushings.com/default.aspx?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJ5FkOoT5QE

Thanks for any input. I noticed the rear end kinda sways when on the highway. is this caused by the bad bushings?

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lots of negative comments on poly bushings. mechanics won't touch them because they can fail. they are plastic. who would trust their life to a plastic suspension part? though i put poly bushings in my 79 camaro. no one complains about poly bushings in that application? just stick with dorman bushings thru rockauto. pretty cheap. maybe 50 a side. did you notice in the pic the knuckle is bare? no wheel bearing/backing plate installed. sure is easy to press it out that way.

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I used poly strut rod bushings and they tightened up my front end directional stability, they were about 3 years old when I got rid of the car and they were perfect.

I got them from this company, I used OEM control arm bushings

http://www.energysuspension.com/products/Strut-Rod-Bushings.html

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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The reason I am considering poly is because I'd like to keep the car in the best shape possible. It would be frustrating to have to go back in and do it all over again considering the wear of rubber vs polyurethane.

Edited by stsbank
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I would be careful where you use poly, you dont want it to take bumps like a truck or like the old 86 Corvettes. We had an 86 Corvette and when you hit a bump it went right through to your back teeth.

Replacing with OEM is not a bad option, look how long they last, I liked the poly strut rod bushings because of the pin point steering that resulted

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks guys. Rubber OEM it is.

I would recommend poly for your strut rods, if your model has them

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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we are talking about 2 different bushings. not just materials. the knuckle bushings are metal/rubber from the factory. i would use the same type for replacement. the strut rod bushings are rubber. i used dorman knuckle bushings and they seem very durable. i looked at the strut rod bushings and they looked fine so i did not touch them.

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I think my replacements are DANA(not chinese), and the OEM's had a plastic sleeve inside that for the life of me I can't figure out how they lasted as long as they did :D

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If you are talking about the knuckle bushings, I would not use poly back there, there needs to be a little flex in the bushing due to the geometry change throughout the range, that is probably why they used a axial ball joint originally

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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If you are talking about the knuckle bushings, I would not use poly back there, there needs to be a little flex in the bushing due to the geometry change throughout the range, that is probably why they used a axial ball joint originally

i couldn't drive the car for the past couple of days(brother was using my car battery). Finally got it back and rev'd it for a bit and treated her to a good buffing :D . The ride is really bad. I can't drive past 10-15 without the car shaking bad its feels as if i was driving on a flat tire. Can the bushings be that important or am i way off the problem? thanks all of you guys for the quick response

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Check each tire for a broken steel belt, look for a bulge in the tread or on the inner or outer sidewall

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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your thread started with a worn front sway bar link. now your rear knuckle bushings may be loose and bad enough that you cannot drive car without severe vibration? did the vibration just start? you said you had a clunk in rear but did not really mention a bad vibration.

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your thread started with a worn front sway bar link. now your rear knuckle bushings may be loose and bad enough that you cannot drive car without severe vibration? did the vibration just start? you said you had a clunk in rear but did not really mention a bad vibration.

After replacing the stabilizer bar link I had a flat tire that needed to be replaced so i went to a tire shop to change them out. It was fine until i drive on a bumpy road. i thought ok. its the road thats causing the vibrating. But it never stopped. The engine is great. but just to drive down the street feels like im on the bumpy road again.

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sometimes a worn part makes so much racket, it covers up noise from another bad part. i worked on a car where the front links were shot and a lower control bushings were also shot. fixed that and found out the rear sway bar bushings were shot too. the whole car rattled. how does your car sound on a smooth flat road? your say the tires were replaced/fixed. i assume that means all 4 were inspected or balanced at least?

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