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Passenger Front Floor Saturation WTH?


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I would guess, with your car being a '97, that it has Dexcool Coolant, which is orange instead of green. If so, then it is most likely coolant you are seeing and it's leaking from the heater core. Check your coolant level. If the heater core is leaking then your coolant will be low.

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I would guess, with your car being a '97, that it has Dexcool Coolant, which is orange instead of green. If so, then it is most likely coolant you are seeing and it's leaking from the heater core. Check your coolant level. If the heater core is leaking then your coolant will be low.

Okay funny thing is my wife mentioned that she was getting a "check coolent level" warning, and she put regular green anti-freeze will this cause a problem? What can I expect to pay for a heater core and replacement that won't be DIY? Can I access it via the glovebox?

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I'm not 100% sure, but I don't believe it's good to mix green coolant with Dexcool. Someone else can answer that better than I can, I'm sure.

A heater core is roughly 50$, and yes it can be accessed by removing the glovebox.

Another member on the forum here is working on a heater core swap now actually. Here's the link to that thread...the heater core info is on the last page. His car is a '94, but I don't imagine there to be any significant differences. http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=33343&pid=176989&st=135entry176989

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Steve is currently replacing his heater core, see this thread, he just started, so you might not see anything yet, go to the end of the thread, he is doing this for the first time

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=33343&st=0

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Steve is currently replacing his heater core, see this thread, he just started, so you might not see anything yet, go to the end of the thread, he is doing this for the first time

http://caddyinfo.ipb...opic=33343&st=0

Hehe. Great minds think alike, huh?biggrin.gif

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Oh sorry, I didnt see that, good thinking Carla!

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Does anyone have a definitive answer for the other question posted about mixing dexcool and green coolant? I gotta admit, I'm curious myself....unsure.gif

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The main difference between old green antifreeze and DexCool is that the old green antifreeze used sodium silicate as a sealant and proprietary stuff for antioxidants while the new DexCool antifreeze uses organic acid technology, or OAT as a term for newer techniques. The advantage is that OAT antifreeze, dyed red to distinguish it from older green antifreezes, is designed to go for five years or 150,000 miles, while green antifreeze is good for two years. According to the DexCool people, if you add green to the mix, you can't go longer than two years anymore. I would take that under advisement until I can get around to a reverse flush to get all the green coolant out, then refill using only red.

It's also very important to keep the mix near 50-50. Too little antifreeze and you can get steam pockets which will cause overheating, and too much... is not thoughtful. See Wikipedia article for more:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze#Organic_acid_technology

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The main difference between old green antifreeze and DexCool is that the old green antifreeze used sodium silicate as a sealant and proprietary stuff for antioxidants while the new DexCool antifreeze uses organic acid technology, or OAT as a term for newer techniques. The advantage is that OAT antifreeze, dyed red to distinguish it from older green antifreezes, is designed to go for five years or 150,000 miles, while green antifreeze is good for two years. According to the DexCool people, if you add green to the mix, you can't go longer than two years anymore. I would take that under advisement until I can get around to a reverse flush to get all the green coolant out, then refill using only red.

It's also very important to keep the mix near 50-50. Too little antifreeze and you can get steam pockets which will cause overheating, and too much... is not thoughtful. See Wikipedia article for more:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze#Organic_acid_technology

The anti-freeze she used was Prestone for all makes and models. Once I replace the heater core I will revert back to the DexCool.

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The main difference between old green antifreeze and DexCool is that the old green antifreeze used sodium silicate as a sealant and proprietary stuff for antioxidants while the new DexCool antifreeze uses organic acid technology, or OAT as a term for newer techniques. The advantage is that OAT antifreeze, dyed red to distinguish it from older green antifreezes, is designed to go for five years or 150,000 miles, while green antifreeze is good for two years. According to the DexCool people, if you add green to the mix, you can't go longer than two years anymore. I would take that under advisement until I can get around to a reverse flush to get all the green coolant out, then refill using only red.

It's also very important to keep the mix near 50-50. Too little antifreeze and you can get steam pockets which will cause overheating, and too much... is not thoughtful. See Wikipedia article for more:

http://en.wikipedia....acid_technology

The anti-freeze she used was Prestone for all makes and models. Once I replace the heater core I will revert back to the DexCool.

If the Prestone has silicates in it, they will plate the cooling system. As a result you will need to use the change interval for GREEN coolant NOT the DEXCOOL change interval, keep that in mind

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Personally. I'd recommend (and do) changing the coolant (Dex or otherwise) every 2-3 years anyway.

I think that is good advice

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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My 96 eldorado had a bad heatercore, it cost me $45, and roughly 1 hour. Remove glovee compartmentm remove passenger side panel below the dash, remove the heatr lines unde the hood at the passenger side near the strut tower on the firewall. Remove the 2 adjusting rods from the motors in the dash marking their location as you do not want to mess this up.

Split the heater housing inside the car, and pull the old core out,

Installation is revers, but before reassembling the glove comapartment verigy proper function of the mix door actuators for full travel.

Enjoy

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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