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I suppose nothing lasts forever. The key fob (Fob #1) for my 1997 Eldorado seems to be fading out. The original fob #1 ceased functioning back in 2004 after about eight years. I then purchased another fob #1 on ebay, likely used, which I have been using since. It now seems that after about six years of use, this one is on its way out. Specifically, it is the "Unlock" button that is fading. The other three functions appear to be functioning fine. The unlock requires multiple presses before responding, and you need to be standing right next to the car for it to work. I just replaced the battery, and cleaned all of the contacts with an alcohol dipped swab but it didn't seem to help. The circuit board doesn't appear to be cracked or damaged in any way, at least not that one can see. Is there anything else I might try before purchasing another? I can get one for about $30 on ebay, but the dealer charges about $40 to program. Supposedly, I can program it myself as the 1997 Cadillacs have the capability, but back in 2004 when I tried, it didn't work. I'd rather just continue to use the one I have in hand if it is repairable.

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In your case I would say try replacing just the rubber button piece and see if that helps. The dealer should sell this. They wear unseen and can cause your issue

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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The pen trick doesn't seem to help. It took five presses to unlock the door. But the other three buttons all operate ont eh first press. I wasn't aware that the rubber button insert was available separately from the dealer. Does this rubber pad wear out? Has anyone improved the functioning of their fob by replacing this rubber button pad?

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The pen trick doesn't seem to help. It took five presses to unlock the door. But the other three buttons all operate ont eh first press. I wasn't aware that the rubber button insert was available separately from the dealer. Does this rubber pad wear out? Has anyone improved the functioning of their fob by replacing this rubber button pad?

It could be not just the pad but also the matching surface. I would get new or lightly used unit on eBay and reprogram myself using the information on the net (there must be some).

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I just called a dealer who told me that the pad is not available separately. I suppose I'll just pick up another used one on ebay like a did last time.

Thanks folks.

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I just called a dealer who told me that the pad is not available separately. I suppose I'll just pick up another used one on ebay like a did last time.

Thanks folks.

It is possible to improve/repair the contact points on the touch pad.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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JimD, you give me hope. How can I improve or repair the contact points on the touch pad? The circuit board appears to be in good condition, and I already gently wiped the contact areas on the board clean with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. What can I do to the pad? What else might I try?

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I have had success (on many types of remote devices) with glueing a small dot of aluminum foil on the bottom surface of the pad. A three-hole-punch will yield the small dot. The tricky part is applying glue to the dot without smearing the glue on the foil surface that will contact the PCB switch.

What happens to all remotes over time is the graphite/carbon layer is worn off the bottom surface of the pad buttons. Hence no reliable switch action.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Do you mean a small dot of aluminum foil the size of the small black pad on the inner side of the grey touch pad? That black pad appears to be considerably smaller than the punchouts from a three hole punch. Or do you mean that the aluminum foil dot should be larger than the black pad? I'd like to follow your instructions as closely as possible.

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....That black pad appears to be considerably smaller than the punchouts from a three hole punch.
It might be necessary to trim the punchout to fit the dimensions of the molded rubber area, but having a larger contact area than the carbon pad is not a bad thing.

What is critical is allowing freedom of movement so the foil is not in contact with the PCB until you touch the button.

On the remote for my car, the only punchout trimming I would do is on the fuel door button due to the odd shape of that button.

Trying to work with anything smaller would challenge my old eyes! !

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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JimD,

I was poking around online and found a youtube video showing the fix you describe in detail. If you search on something like "Repairing GM Remote Keyfob" it will likely come up. Will be trying the fix tonight and will post my results. Fingers crossed.

Rich

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In life I find that some things defy explanation. My remote has mysteriously begun working again. I am so in the habit of walking up to my car and pressing the unlock button that I reflexively did so yesterday as I normally would. Well, the driver door unlocked. I tried several more times, and it seems to be working again??? So as they say, if it ain't broke...

I suspect that this functioning is temporary and as soon as it fades out again, I will be applying "the fix" discussed herein. At that point, I will post my results. Thanks again to all.

Cheers.

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To program a remote,you must do both remotes

With the ignition in the "RUN" position (engine does not necessarily need to be running, but it will work either way).

Press OFF and WARMER (or the OFF and PASSENGER WARMER buttons) on climate control panel simultaneously. Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) will light all telltales, then go blank. System is now in DIAGNOSTIC MODE. Press FAN DOWN button until "RFA?" is displayed, then press FAN UP. Press FAN DOWN button until "RFA OVERRIDE?" is displayed, then press FAN UP button. When "NO OVRD RF S00" is displayed, press FAN UP button.

When "PGM FOB1 S01" is displayed, press WARMER button and "99" will be displayed in the left upper corner of the IPC, just below odometer. System is now ready to program transmitter.

Press and hold TRUNK button on the transmitter. While holding TRUNK button, press LOCK button and hold for one second. Hold both buttons for a total of 3 seconds. Locks will cycle when programming is complete. If transmitter is not programmed within 30 seconds after entering "99" on the display, system will default and you must begin at step #2 again.

To program second transmitter, press FAN UP button until "PGM FOB2 S02" is displayed, then repeat steps #2 and #3.

To exit system, press RECIRC, or RESET button.

Edited by caddypete
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I'm not trying to hijack the thread here, but I have a question that is related to this discussion. When I got my car it only had 2 keys with it (one for ignition, one for locks) and one key fob, which doesn't work. I went to the local Ace Hardware to get the keys copied (they are the only local place that copies pass keys) and was told they can't copy the ignition key unless I have BOTH originals, and to contact my dealership. I called the local GM dealership, but they don't deal with Cadillacs...only GMC's, Pontiacs and Chevy's. The closest Caddy dealer is over 60 miles from me, and they told me that I would have to bring the keys and fob in, the keys could be copied with no trouble so long as I have the title with me, but the only way they could give me a replacement fob is if I have fob #1, and they would have to check whether it is or not.

Bottom line, I would really HATE to drive 120 miles for nothing...is there any way I can tell myself which fob I have?

big4870885.jpg

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I'm not trying to hijack the thread here, but I have a question that is related to this discussion. When I got my car it only had 2 keys with it (one for ignition, one for locks) and one key fob, which doesn't work. I went to the local Ace Hardware to get the keys copied (they are the only local place that copies pass keys) and was told they can't copy the ignition key unless I have BOTH originals, and to contact my dealership. I called the local GM dealership, but they don't deal with Cadillacs...only GMC's, Pontiacs and Chevy's. The closest Caddy dealer is over 60 miles from me, and they told me that I would have to bring the keys and fob in, the keys could be copied with no trouble so long as I have the title with me, but the only way they could give me a replacement fob is if I have fob #1, and they would have to check whether it is or not.

Bottom line, I would really HATE to drive 120 miles for nothing...is there any way I can tell myself which fob I have?

No no no just tell them you want them to copy the keys dont attempt to program them. You program the keys yourself at home. Its a pretty simple procedure that involves inserting the original key in the ignition turning it to the ON position then turning it back off and within 10 secs or so put the copied key in and turn it to the ON position or something like that. Im not 100% sure on the exact procedure but ive done it multiple times with my STS. Im sure the proper procedure for programming keys is on this forum somewhere. You can find blank PK3 keys on ebay for cheap so dont get suckered into paying $60 for them at the local hardware store. EDIT: I just saw that you have a 94 im not sure if your car uses PK3 keys or VATS keys. If your car has VATS then im not sure on the programming procedure. Sorry.

Edited by SPreston2001
3100406887_808dbe1b91_m.jpg3100408453_191809e0a7_m.jpg
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The fob usually has a number 1 or 2 on the back to tell you if it is one or two. A locksmith should be able to make you a new ignition key and cheaper than a dealership. Buy a remote on ebay and reprogram it to your car, or reprogram your remote to work. I will post on how to do that as soon as I look up how your year Caddy is done.

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Reprogaming for 94-95 Cadillac

Before starting this procedure, BOTH transmitters must be present. Failure to use both transmitters will render the RKE system inoperative.(If the customer uses only one transmitter on the vehicle, use this transmitter as transmitter 1 and 2; which is not the normal situation). The entire reprogramming sequence must be completed within 30 seconds of grounding the reprogramming connector [step 1 and 2 below]. If the procedure is not completed, remove the ground at the connector and restart the procedure from step [1] one.

As I understand this that if you use one fob, you would do this procedure useing only the one remote as both 1 and 2

Reprogramming Transmitter

Ignition ON.

Ground black single wire connector located at trunk pull down unit.

Wait for door locks to lock and unlock [a few seconds]

Press the UNLOCK button on the first transmitter twice. Pause for one second between presses.

Wait for door locks to lock and unlock. [a couple of seconds]

Press the UNLOCK button on the second transmitter twice. Pause for one second between presses.

Wait for door locks to lock and unlock. About two seconds.

Remove ground from black connector.

After procedure, check to see if both transmitters operate the door locks. Repeat programming procedure or replace transmitters as necessary.

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For me, Remote1 stopped working one day, replaced batteries, and nothing. a few years later the same thing happened to remote2 after a few months, I checked it out, and a lonely resistor/crystal on each of the remotes had pulled one of the two solder points from the circuit board. I resoldered, and all was well since. both work again. If anyone's remote is completely dead after battery replacement, check it out.

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For me, Remote1 stopped working one day, replaced batteries, and nothing. a few years later the same thing happened to remote2 after a few months, I checked it out, and a lonely resistor/crystal on each of the remotes had pulled one of the two solder points from the circuit board. I resoldered, and all was well since. both work again. If anyone's remote is completely dead after battery replacement, check it out.

That's my case. My remote is totally d.e.a.d. Dead. It does nothing. I put a brand new battery in it and tested it on the remote tester at a parts store nearby, and it wasn't sending a signal at all...which is why I don't have the option of programming a new one myself.

Pete, I'll look into finding a locksmith around here and see if they can do it. I'm not 100% sure which type of key mine is...all I know is it has a black pellet with a silver tab in it, and if I put the wrong key in (done that more than once) I get the "passkey II error, car will not start" message on the DIC.

big4870885.jpg

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Carla,

For what is't worth, I purchased a new ignition key from a Cadillac dealer a few years ago for about $20, and had it cut and programmed at a locksmth for about $12 if I recall. The key even has the Cadillac crest on one side as did the original key. The original, which had been in constant use for about 12 years at the time, occasionally started giving a message on the DIC that the car wouldn't start. Didn't want to fool around with that, so I got the new key. I was told that the contact in the resistor chip in the original key wore out over thousands of insertions in the ignition.

My fobs are imprinted with a "1" and a "2" on the back, but my Eldorado is a 1997. Regarding the replacement rubber pads on ebay, none seem to match my fob. Mine has four gray buttons, three round ones for lock, unlock, and trunk. One elliptical one for the gas filler door. They have a similar one on ebay with a red colored horn button which I imagine would work, but I would really prefer one that matches exactly. I'll keep looking I supppose.

Rich

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For me, Remote1 stopped working one day, replaced batteries, and nothing. a few years later the same thing happened to remote2 after a few months, I checked it out, and a lonely resistor/crystal on each of the remotes had pulled one of the two solder points from the circuit board. I resoldered, and all was well since. both work again. If anyone's remote is completely dead after battery replacement, check it out.

That's my case. My remote is totally d.e.a.d. Dead. It does nothing. I put a brand new battery in it and tested it on the remote tester at a parts store nearby, and it wasn't sending a signal at all...which is why I don't have the option of programming a new one myself.

Pete, I'll look into finding a locksmith around here and see if they can do it. I'm not 100% sure which type of key mine is...all I know is it has a black pellet with a silver tab in it, and if I put the wrong key in (done that more than once) I get the "passkey II error, car will not start" message on the DIC.

The black pellet type is VATS. Im not sure on how to program vats keys. But I think as long as the resistor (black pellet) is the same then you can you any VATS key with the same resistance. You should be able to take your key to any electronics store and have them measure the resistance and from there go on ebay and find a blank VATS key within the same resistance. My 94 Deville used the VATS system.

EDIT:

Found the instructions on how to measure VATS keys. Seems you have 1 of 15 different possible keys.

INSTRUCTIONS:

SWITCH METER TO OHMS AND TAKE BOTH PROBES AND PLACE ONE ON EACH SIDE OF PELLET ON KEY READ METER AND REFERENCE TO CHART BELOW. MAKE SURE YOU ONLY TOUCH THE THE SMALL METAL PART OF PELLET. USE DIAGRAM BELOW TO DETERMINE WHICH KEY NUMBER YOU HAVE.

KEY OHM RESISTANCE

1= 402

2= 523

3= 681

4= 887

5= 1130

6= 1407

7= 1870

8= 2370

9= 3010

10= 3740

11= 4750

12= 6040

13= 7500

14= 9530

15= 11800

Edited by SPreston2001
3100406887_808dbe1b91_m.jpg3100408453_191809e0a7_m.jpg
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Thanks Preston.

So I just took apart my fob for the first time...I don't know why I didn't do it sooner. Maybe I was afraid of breaking something...

Here's what it looks like. Obviously someone replaced one of the buttons, and poorly. I'm gonna clean it up and see if I can get it working. I have 1 question though. Is that green stuff on the button terminals supposed to be there? Or should I clean it off? It looks like corrosion, but feels like some sort of grease.

DSCF8850.jpg

big4870885.jpg

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Thanks Preston.

So I just took apart my fob for the first time...I don't know why I didn't do it sooner. Maybe I was afraid of breaking something...

Here's what it looks like. Obviously someone replaced one of the buttons, and poorly. I'm gonna clean it up and see if I can get it working. I have 1 question though. Is that green stuff on the button terminals supposed to be there? Or should I clean it off? It looks like corrosion, but feels like some sort of grease.

DSCF8850.jpg

I'm more scared what that other "stuff" is on the circuit board, and everywhere else. Do you own a decontamination chamber? - or maybe an old toothbrush & alcohol will do the trick too.

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