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Bad CV's or steering problem?


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My car has been running great. Not a tick or sputter to speak of. However, I noticed this a few days ago, there is a clicking/clunking in the front end when turning. It's more than a click, but not quite a clunk, and can be felt very slightly in the steering wheel. When I make a right turn, I hear it in the left, front wheel area. When I make a left turn I hear it in the right, front wheel area. It only happens when turning a corner or going slowly (under 25-30mph) around a curve. Taking a curve at higher speeds I hear nothing. With the car sitting still it doesn't do it either. It also has no effect on the car's handling. My first thought was CV joints, but it seems very unlikely to me that BOTH of them would start making noise at the same time. This led me to believe a steering related issue is more likely. Is there anything in the steering that could cause this? My tie rod ends and sway bar links/bushings have already been replaced. I also had the ball joints checked out when I had my brakes done a few months ago and they were fine. Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated!

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Check your strut rod bushings, they are the bushings that are attached to the strut rod, the strut rod is attached to the frame with two bushings one in front and one in back. If they are worn, when you turn the steering wheel the lower control arms are permitted to float fore and aft and the rod can contact the frame and damage the rod over time. Search Regis, he had problems with the rod and bushings on his 94

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Will do Mike. It seems to me though that if they were the problem then I would notice the sound when driving over bumps or through potholes as well, would I not?

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Not necessarily, they buffer front to rear movement, not up and down,

New strut rod bushings will improve directional stability, and sort of tighten the steering

They work in contrast to eachother on turns, one pushing forward while the other pulls back

If you feel your car wandering in the front, that would be an indication

Regis had a very odd problem his strut rod got loose from the lower control arm, the rivets were loose and that created noise, I got him a new control arm from the scrap yard

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks. Assuming it doesn't rain tomorrow, I'll get under there and have a look around. I'll post my findings. smile.gif

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These are not very easy to diagnose

Get under the front of the car, the steering wheel should be straight ahead and stabilized anotherwords, drive the car down the block and slow to a stop, try not to use the brakes heavily, get under the front of the car and you will see two large rods facing forward, try to turn the large bushings in front and behind the frame, look for wear or damage, grab the rod and try to push it up and down.

Then get into the car, turn the steering wheel full left and look again, inspect the bushings, any looseness?, repeat for full right turn. Don't leave the steering in FULL left or right lock for more than 30 seconds, and its probably better to back off the lock position a bit. Holding the steering at lock builds up pressure too long, so long holds need to be minimized.

If it moves up or down, the bushings turn or you see wear or damage. I used poly bushings on my strut rods, they were very tight and caused my Deville to have pin point directional stability.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'll get to doing that as soon as I get a free few minutes. I'm waiting to hear back from my insurance company right now to see if they will cover a new windshield for me. I was just on my way home from bringing my daughter to school, and I was on the highway, and out of nowhere a golf ball sized rock hit my windshield. There wasn't even a vehicle in front of me, so I have no idea where it came from, but it left a good sized hole and spider web crack in the center of the windshield. I know as soon as snow falls it will get a lot worse, so I'm trying to get it taken care of asap.

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You are lucky, you didnt get hurt, given there is a hole, glad you are ok

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Carla,

Sorry to hear about your windshield.

I have a glass company coming tomorrow morning to replace the passengers window and windshield on my Chevy Van.

Just before daylight Sat morn...someone busted the window and stole my laptop from the front seat.

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Jim, that's terrible. I'm guessing you don't live in a bad neighborhood either since you left your laptop in the van. Why someone would bust both those windows though makes no sense...

Mike, I'm fine. It scared me so bad I almost drove off the road, and I was a bit shaken, but I have anxiety anyway so I'm sure that didn't help. It was like someone threw if from the side of the highway, and given where I live that wouldn't surprise me at all. It couldn't have been shot up by a truck or anything since there was no one in front of me. I have to wait for my boyfriend to get home from work to call the insurance company. They said since he is the primary driver on the policy he has to be the one to file the claim. I'm hoping it will be covered without the 500$ deductible...

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I finally got a chance to check out the strut rod bushings today, since it was sunny and warm instead of raining. The rods themselves don't move at all when pushed or pulled on. The bushings however don't look so happy. Both the driver and passenger side bushings are dried and cracked pretty bad, and the driver side one is about 1/4 inch thinner than the passenger side one. Time to replace them! Hopefully that will cure the clunking. I'll have to wait a few days though to buy parts. I'm out of work on disability at the moment, and my other half just started a new job.

Mike, since you have done this job, how would you say it rates in difficulty? Anything I should be aware of or look out for?

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Well its not an easy job by any means, you need to

Remove the level control link

Remove the stabilizer link from the bottom end

Break loose the ball joint after removing the cotter pin and nut

Remove the control arm to frame bolt(s)

Remove the strut rod nut

take out control arm

Replace the rear strut rod bushing

and reverse to reinstall

See FSM for torque specs and be darn careful not to over extend the inner CV joint

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I replaced the Lower Control Arm rod bushings on my former '94 Eldorado, which can be more difficult than you may suspect because to do it right requires removing the Control Arm to get at the inner bushing. The outer bushing is easy since it only requires removing the 18mm nut. Even if you drop the strut it will not provide sufficient clearance to get at the inner bushing. You may be able to simply remove the rod pin as I did, but it will be a bit tedious to get the Control Arm aligned once removed to get the pin back in. Also, check for rust and possible damage to the bushing seat. If I were you I would apply some rust destroyer and some paint or maybe even some of RustOleum's Rusty Metal Primer to protect the bushing seat. It doesn't have to be complicated, but if you plan on keeping the car for a while you might as well do some preventative maintenance if there is any sign of rusting.

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I wasn't aware that there even is an inner bushing. I hope I checked out the right thing? I'll take a pic in the morning and post it, just to be sure I am on the same page...

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I wasn't aware that there even is an inner bushing. I hope I checked out the right thing? I'll take a pic in the morning and post it, just to be sure I am on the same page...

In BBF's post 6, when he said, "try to turn the large bushings in front and behind the frame", I believe he is referring to the Lower Control Arm bushings. There is one in front of the frame and one behind. If a rod is loose due to a loose nut or worn bushings it could make steering unsteady and when you hit the brake you may notice the car will pull to one side. The Lower Control Arm is what the strut is connected to and has a rod that extends to the front frame. If you turn steering wheel all the way to left and right and look towards the front lower part of the wheel well you will see the rods and inner rubber bushings.

Edited:

Read BBF's post 12. He is definitely referring to the Control Arm rod ("strut rod") bushings.

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One more thing, it just dawned on me, because of another thread by STEVE

Look at your strut bearings, they will make noise on turns if they are worn or binding, it has gotten cold by you, and your strut bearing may have tightened up

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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