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Brand new owner, sort of inherited it from relatives. Only thing i've owned was a pickup, but i can definitely do work myself. anyway, there is a serious battery drain from somewhere... couple relays remain very warm after car is shutoff, (specifically the INT LP and CIGAR) but dont know if this would be something to look at or not... i ran the diagnostics and got the following codes over and over.

ABS C1217

IPM B1341

IPM B1343

RSS C1712

RSS C1787 (this is a short to grnd code i think??? how would i know where to look for this short?) if i take the relay out, it just gives me a code RSS C1786...

RIM B1009

if anyone can help me track this drain down with this info, i would much appreciate it. and if any of these other codes are common problems i might be able to fix please let me know. thank you!

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....anyway, there is a serious battery drain from somewhere... couple relays remain very warm after car is shutoff, (specifically the INT LP and CIGAR) but dont know if this would be something to look at or not...

It would help us help you if you could put a number to the "serious drain".

That would involve putting an ammeter in the battery chassis ground cable and telling us what current you measure after ten minutes with keys in your pocket and no door closing or opening activity. Ten minutes is how long it takes the car to shut down various modules and kill lighting. During that ten minutes the current will be as high as 4 Amperes. Warm relays are of no consequence during that time.

After ten minutes, the current will settle down to approximately 30 milliamps and stay at that value.

And you do have some problems with ABS and one strut. But I expect the battery situation is the first priority.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Jim this is putting an amp meter 'in line' on the negative side of the battery? Can you use a digital volt/amp meter for this purpose?, like a Fluke meter?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Jim this is putting an amp meter 'in line' on the negative side of the battery? Can you use a digital volt/amp meter for this purpose?, like a Fluke meter?

If the meter has an Ampere range of at least 10 amps, the answer is yes. The meter selector switch has to be in the correct position and the test leads in the proper connectors of course.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Thanks Jim, I just acquired a meter that has a 10 amp setting, this is good to know

I would imagine that if I had the meter leads reversed I would show (-) amps? and them just reverse the leads?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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....I would imagine that if I had the meter leads reversed I would show (-) amps? and them just reverse the leads?

I ignore the + or - polarity data when I know the leads might be reversed. What you are interested in is the absolute value of the reading when it comes to automotive work and the absolute value will be the same no matter what the + or - indication tells you.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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....anyway, there is a serious battery drain from somewhere... couple relays remain very warm after car is shutoff, (specifically the INT LP and CIGAR) but dont know if this would be something to look at or not...

It would help us help you if you could put a number to the "serious drain".

That would involve putting an ammeter in the battery chassis ground cable and telling us what current you measure after ten minutes with keys in your pocket and no door closing or opening activity. Ten minutes is how long it takes the car to shut down various modules and kill lighting. During that ten minutes the current will be as high as 4 Amperes. Warm relays are of no consequence during that time.

After ten minutes, the current will settle down to approximately 30 milliamps and stay at that value.

And you do have some problems with ABS and one strut. But I expect the battery situation is the first priority.

I do not have a multimeter currently, but i do know the battery wont start the car only a few hours after it was shutoff. I can get one maybe this weekend from a friend. How exactly do you hook it up? in series with the negative battery cable?

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I do not have a multimeter currently, but i do know the battery wont start the car only a few hours after it was shutoff.

Your battery could be the problem.

How exactly do you hook it up? in series with the negative battery cable?

Correct.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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A battery can be dead out of the box, 3 years is an eternity, heat kills them and deep discharges sap their overhead and they can develop internal shorts/dead cells

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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What Body by Fisher said...

Have the battery load tested to eliminate it from being the actual problem.

Mine is a little over 3.5 years old and I am considering buying a new one ... just so I don't come out some morning and the darn thing is dead.

I very seldom get over 4 years out of a battery...sometimes much less than that, so I am kinda living on borrowed time.

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I had a battery that was just over a year old. Worked awesome until one day I went out to my car and the battery was dead. Jumping the car would start it but turning on the headlights killed it.

Battery checked out OK for most tests but there was an internal short or dead cells and I needed a new one.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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well they told me it was bad. charged and had voltage, just didnt pass load tests i guess. thanks guys, getting a new one soon, those aren't cheap. what about those codes? ABS and Suspension system? are those common? i'm sure there's other posts on it so ill check it out.

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....what about those codes? ABS and Suspension system? are those common? i'm sure there's other posts on it so ill check it out.

After you have a fresh battery installed, clear all your codes and take a test drive. Then display your codes again for a clean slate reading.

Here is how to display (and clear) your codes;

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Do you still have the battery "drain" or is that fixed?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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me too! and the 40A ABS fuse was blown. should i just try replacing it or look for a reason first?

Replace it and see what happens, if you have a problem it will blow again, then look for a problem

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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