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I have a 2000 sts with the bose system in it and am looking for some more kick by adding 1 1200 watt amp and 2 12" mtx subs.

I am plaining on keeping the HU stock and keep everything running stock as well

I bought a Line out converter witch is where im having troubles.

with the converter it says to tie into the back speakers before the amp but am having difficulty locating the wires. i can find them going from the amp to the speakers but not from the HU to the Amp.

Does anyone know what colors the wires are from the back of the HU are for the Back left and right speakers that go to the amp?

Even better if someone had a diagram or could throughly explain it for me

Thanks in advance :D

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If you use a line out converter you will have to turn your amp down to the lowest power setting to get it to power up. Now onto your speaker wires for the rear speakers.

Right Rear (+) Dark Blue

Right Rear (-) Light Blue

Left Rear (+) Brown

Left Rear (-) Yellow

If you cant pick them up in the rear deck you might try fishing them from the doors, all you need to do is tap into one set of positive and negative speaker wires and then plug your two RCA jacks up and run them to your amp.

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i had already tried directly from the door but the subs acted like speakers and not subs....

And from what i know is that it was because i tapped into them after the factory amp and not before. Should that happen?

and from what i read from above is that you want me to tap into them at the doors before the amp? and if so do the wires run down the side of the doors so i can pick them up there rather than the back of the HU so i dont need to run the RCA jacks to the back from the HU and instead have everything under the back seat were the battery and fuse box are and all that nonsense

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You have the same year make Caddy as me. I have done exactly what your trying to do and its really simple. The best thing to do is to take out your factory sub, and tap into the factory subwoofer line with your line out converter. Your factory sub gets a low pass signal so your new subs will sound like subs and not a 6x9. If you dont want to take out the factory sub, you can just leave it in, but most people think it sounds better when you take it out. If you decide to take out your factory sub, the hole acts as a port and lets you hear more bass inside the cabin. As for your remote wire, run a wire through the backseat and down into the passenger side of fuse #12 inside the fuse box under the back seat so that your amp only turns on when your key is in the "ON" position. When it comes to your RCAs, your LOC (line out converter) should have two rca jacks on it. Run your RCA's from the LOC directly to the amp. You dont have to connect anything to the headunit, everything you need for this install is in the truck and under the back seat. So basically if your LOC is like most LOC's your gonna have 6 or 7 wires (left(+) left(-), right(+) right(-), power wire(+), ground wire(-), maybe a remote wire). Since your only connecting your LOC to one line (factory sub line) you can either twist your left(+) and right(+) wires together and your left(-) and right(-) wires together, or you can just use one set of wires (left(+) & left(-). Also you dont have to worry about tapping into the wires before they go into the factory amp. Just splice into the wire you disconnected from the factory sub and tie your LOC into that. The factory sub lines will have a blue wire which is the positive and a green or black wire which is the negative. Hook up your power and ground wire to your amp, set your gains and thump away. Make sure your ground wire is less than 3ft long and make sure you use a fuse on your power wire and have it within 12 inches of the battery.

Edited by SPreston2001
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i currently have them hooked through the current sub but it doesn't seem to be pounding as hard as it could be.

I had a 95 sts with all aftermarket Deck and speakers and it doesn't even pound as half as hard as they did then.

When i was talking to a Best Buy "Specialist" he has said i need to tie into the rear speakers for it to sound its best...

And as for the converter its a stinger Sgn12

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41vIS-D6oQL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

It has r+ r- and l+ l- and has a optional ground but no power?

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Yeah its not gonna be nearly as loud as an aftermarket setup. PAC makes some really good LOC's and have gain controls built in so you can boost the signal. Everybody I know that has put subwoofers in these cars, tapped into the subwoofer line for the LOC. I guess the LOC you have gets power from the speaker wire so it doesnt need a power wire. Maybe thats the main cause of your low output. Look on Ebay for a PAC LOC and give that a try. Have you adjusted your gain and bass control on your amp? My system sounds pretty good and I only have one JL 12 in my trunk. Doesnt sound as good as a aftermarket setup, but it sounds darn good.

3100406887_808dbe1b91_m.jpg3100408453_191809e0a7_m.jpg
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Glad you got it running ok. After doing a little more research I found that using a passive LOC (like the one you have) will cause significant signal loss. Using a powered LOC will allow you to regain alot of that signal and boost your sound output!

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Well the exhaust of choice for most STS owners is the Corsa exhaust system. Its not cheap but it sounds great. Ive seen people put flowmasters, cherry bombs, and even glass packs on Caddy's so it really all about how you want it to sound.

3100406887_808dbe1b91_m.jpg3100408453_191809e0a7_m.jpg
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  • 1 year later...

Hi SPreston2001 -

You seem to know alot about audio in Cadillacs. I'm hoping you can help me?

I have a 2001 Cadillac Deville and I believe the subwoofer is blown - sounds comes out, but it's distorted and loud. I had to turn the bass way down so I can still listen to audio in my car.

I want to replace the sub-woofer with an aftermarket one. I just want to replace it with a non "free-air type" aftermarket subwoofer with as little work and cost as possible. If I don't purchase a "free-air" type, what type would you recommend? Also, what other things should I consider - amp, line out converter, rca jacks so I don't blow this new one out?

Thanks in advance,

Bob

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If you want more bass you can buy a line level converter for $20 or so (I have one for sale) that you plug the wires going to that factory sub into the converter and out the other end is RCA wires. You can then run a small amp and sub in the trunk. With RCA and a 12v signal wire all accessible from the trunk you don't need to tear up you carpet trim or dash radio. Another plus is you just need to run the power cable for the amp about 4 or 5 feet to the battery under the back seat instead of going to the engine compartment.

A non free air sub won't sound too good and may distort if used on the package tray. I believe its a 10" sub but not sure of its ohm rating which you would NEED to match or you may ruin the factory amp.

Option 1 is an easy conversion.

Edited by CoupeDTS

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Glad you got it running ok. After doing a little more research I found that using a passive LOC (like the one you have) will cause significant signal loss. Using a powered LOC will allow you to regain alot of that signal and boost your sound output!

you can say that again, I have one and it went in and back out in a week. been sitting in a box since.

Now on my 97 factory Bose the sound is amazing and I never touch anything. first time I heard the sub I didnt think it was mine till I turned it up a little and realized it. Guess it depends on what you listen to. I like oldies and classic rock. I love the Bose system. Wish I could install it in my 96 Deville

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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