2004 deville

[DANNYL]

Hello everybody..I have a 04 deville with a no start problem...I belive that who ever had it before reversed the terminals when boosting the vehicle..It burnt the pcm and the bcm module...they have been replaced..still doesnt want to start..I cant get into the anti-theft module with the scanner and it keeps bringing up u1000 code for the cluster module...If anyone has any ideas on what to do besides getting rid of it let me no thanks...

[BodybyFisher]

Hello everybody..I have a 04 deville with a no start problem...I belive that who ever had it before reversed the terminals when boosting the vehicle..It burnt the pcm and the bcm module...they have been replaced..still doesnt want to start..I cant get into the anti-theft module with the scanner and it keeps bringing up u1000 code for the cluster module...If anyone has any ideas on what to do besides getting rid of it let me no thanks...

You know, its a shame stuff like this happens, an 04 Deville and someone is not smart enough to properly maintain and repair it. I have said it before, jumping a vehicle is for idiots and only leads to trouble, I avoid it at all costs especially given all of the electronics involved. Instead of jumping, pull the battery, get it tested and either charge it or replace it, PERIOD.

We will not likely be able to help you here, U codes are quite common and is most times benign. Do you get any messages regarding the theft deterrant system?

Who knows what was blown by such a bone headed move. So you bought the car like this? What kind of scanner are you talking about? Scanners usually only report P codes.

I would take it to the dealer and open my wallet up wide if I wanted to keep the car.

This is a shame

[MAC]

This problem likely needs to be addressed by a Cadillac dealer with a Tech 2.

Re: Code IPC U1000

Circuit description..

Modules connected to the class 2 serial data circuit monitor for serial data communications during normal vehicle operation. Operating information and commands are exchanged among the modules. When a module receives a message for a critical operating parameter, the module records the identification number of the module which sent the message. These node alive messages are used for State of Health monitoring. A critical operating parameter is one which, when not received, requires that the module use a default value for that parameter. When a module does not associate an identification number with at least one critical parameter within 5 seconds of beginning serial data communication, DTC U1000 or U1255 is set. When more than one critical parameter does not have an identification number associated with it, the DTC will only be reported once. The following modules communicate on the class 2 serial data circuit:...

The above information is copied from one of Logan's posts here, which has further information about the U1000 code.

Maybe Logan will see this thread and offer some more assistance.

[Cadillac Jim]

If jumpers were hooked up backwards to a car with a low or dead battery, and reverse voltage was applied sufficiently to blow the PCM and PZM, then no module is beyond suspicion. If a high-end scanner or Tech II shows that the IPM is dead, that is a pretty much a dealer item because the IPM has the VIN and odometer mileage programmed into it as well as the calibrations of all the car's options and instruments. If it's cooked and the Tech II can't read the EEPROM, it will have to be sent in so that it can be disassembled and the EEPROM read by special lab equipment. All the data in your old IPM is used to program your new one.

If the VIN hasn't been programmed into the PCM that will need to be done. That's something that a dealer will have to do as part of GM theft prevention policies.

When you are done with the IPM, there is no guarantee that other modules won't be blown too. Then, there are other electronics such as the radio, the alternator, the digital displays in your dashboard, etc. etc. etc.

There are two ways to completely destroy the electronics in a modern car: hook jumper cables up backwards on a car with a low or dead battery, and use a 24 Volt fast charger with the battery in the car. Even with cars that use a distributor and carbuetetor with no PCM, this will blow the alternator diodes, voltage regulator, radio, fob entry system, electric windows, courtesy lights and any other lights that aren't on a mechanical switch, and just about everything electronic in the car. You would have to go back before about the 1960 model year to find cars that could withstand that with minimal damage.

A 2004 Deville (not DTS or DHS) with standard equipment and typical daily-driver condition with about 87,000 miles on the odometer is worth $4,000 to $6,000 trade-in, if it was in good running condition. You quite possibly are looking at more than that to get the car working properly again, with the lights and windows and all. I don't know what a recycling yard would pay for the car, but one option you should consider (and from your first post, this has occurred to you) is to sell the car to a recycling yard and buy a used 2004 Deville of similar mileage and top-notch condition, which can be had from a dealer with limited 90-day warranty and all, for about $9250. If your car has good bumpers, fenders, interior, engine and transmission, its value at a recycling yard might surprise you. If you get an offer of $3,000 or more from a recycling yard, it may be less expensive to go this route. Better to pay $6K difference for a top-notch dealer-backed car than to spend weeks or more spending it on a car when you don't know when you will be done, or what the final bill will be.

My figures are from Kelly Blue Book (http://www.kbb.com) using my zip code for prices. You should run your own numbers to evaluate your options. To get the best deal, be prepared to negotiate with the scrapyard yourself, find your next Cadillac with an online search (available right from kbb.com and other web sites), arrange your financing with the bank before you look at cars in person, and shop the dealers with cash in-hand. Get your own CarFAX for any car you look at before you start negotiating the final price and warranty. Yes, you will need a friend to tow the car around for getting estimates and you may need to see more than one scrapyard, and you will need to borrow a car to get around and get all this done too.

[DANNYL]

I am using a snap-on scanner which will read the instrument panel cluster module and the pcm...I had a buddy from a GM dealer come and program the pcm and try to get into the anti-theft module but no luck with the anti-theft..It didnt want to communicate with it...Today I pulled out the cluster and found that the module that is connected to it is burnt very bad...My radio heats up with in 5 seconds of plugging it in...The hazard lights flash all the time with the turn/hazard module plugged in, even with all the modules disconnected...I would like to fix it but i dont wanna replace every module but does anyone think that there all done...Thanks for everyone's help...ANYBODY WANTS TO BUY? lol

[DANNYL]

I did buy like this...and every single fuse was blown just to let everyone know...

[BodybyFisher]

Keep in mind that a great way to blow an alternator's diodes is to reverse the polarity like this, check the alternator out carefully.

[Ranger]

I did buy like this...and every single fuse was blown just to let everyone know...

OUCH! That was a big red flag. Hope you got it for a good price.

[Cadillac Jim]

I did buy like this...and every single fuse was blown just to let everyone know...

Parts car.

[joeb]

a few years ago someone posted about buying a flood car and 2nd wrecked car and swapping the entire guts. drivetrain, entire vehicle wire harness, dash and so on. amazing what folks will do to make a few bucks. sounds like a good vehicle to part out.