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2000 cadillac deville, slushing sound in dash, overheating


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It doesnt have any misfire, sometimes the idle is not perfect, but that was normal before this....

Now I am letting it cool down and heading for the SMELLING test.

I havent found a shop yet that does the tests, but I am still trying, surely someone does them.

Pull the yellowpages out and look for radiator shops

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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:wipetears well I did the SMELL test, it smelled awful-- LOL-but cant say it smelled like exhaust, just hot strong antifreeze. But the exhaust pipe fumes do smell sweet, like a nice smell (I know this is not good, HUH?) But no white smoke, just clear vapor.

I already checked the yellow pages, we dont have many radiator shops, the one that was recommended to me, said he "doesnt work on Cadillacs and doesnt have the tester". I didnt want him to fix it, just test it!

Is the Napa tester very detailed to do? I may do it myself.

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Yes, the Napa (or any) block test is very easy to do. Just follow the instructions.

That sweet smelling exhaust does not sound good I'm sorry to say. Are the inside of the pipe tips wet and somewhat oily feeling?

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The sweet smell is not there today, it stinks like exhaust fumes (but Lilac bush is near the lane, I said I was a blond with dyed hair :blink: ). There is no oily feeling or dampness on the tailpipes, just black suet like stuff. Nothing on the inside of oil cap either as I read somewhere to check it for muck. Coolant stays the same after driving it and all this time, oil looks normal, no milky stuff. I can see why mechanics get paid so much now, this is crazy.

Sure wish with all the bells and frills on Cadillacs they would add a read out telling what the exact cause of problems are. I had stopped at Autozone, unless the service engine light is on, they dont have a way to test the codes... no lights on, only the "low coolant light" (and it is where the level should be) and it has been on before-so figure it is faulty light.

After parking all night should the coolant cap still have much pressure when released? This one only lets a small amount of air out, and it is new?? It is a replacement cap that the parts store sold to me, said it is listed for 2000 cadillac deville, but is different than the old cap? Son is going to have a shop to look at it, but wished I could have solved it before all the expense.

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After parking all night should the coolant cap still have much pressure when released?

No. The pressure dissipates as the engine and coolant cool off. The only time there should be pressure in the cooling system is when it is warm/hot.

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Ok, took the car for about 30 mile drive, up hills and down, stayed on normal temp. Got about a mile from home, turned on A/C still ok till I got home, since I have a steep driveway I took it up and down that for about three times, then it went to 'HOT, AC OFF, etc'.

I checked under the hood:

No steam, no gurgling, no sounds except cooling fans on.

Top of engine was only 'Warm'.

Top raditor hose was 'Just warm'.

Bottom raditor hose was 'lukewarm'.

Coolant tank was 'HOT'.

No wetness or sticky stuff on tailpipes, all dry and no white fumes or sweet smell at all.

Both fans stayed on after I shut the engine off for about 7 min.

I havent had the radiator checked, could that be the bad boy? OR maybe 'air'? or do you think it is still the HG (NO)

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One more point, we had to refill the coolant tank when it was replaced, they used NOT DEXCOOL (due to the class action made on DEXCOOL), but used another brand just to refill, any problems on this? Then it was driven probably 4-500 miles before this overheating problem.

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PSS, Just remembered before this there was several times that heat would come from heater area when HEATER WAS NOT ON. Could that be a leak into the cooling system? Cause overheating issue.

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One more point, we had to refill the coolant tank when it was replaced, they used NOT DEXCOOL (due to the class action made on DEXCOOL), but used another brand just to refill, any problems on this? Then it was driven probably 4-500 miles before this overheating problem.

Was this recently? When I did a coolant change last year I had to top it off about 3 times before I got all the air out and it stabilized.

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The coolant tank only was changed out, about 4 months ago, old one cracked at neck where cap goes on, just changed and refilled the tank, didnt drain the system, and I have made sure it is at the correct level. I have added some also, but not much.

I am sorry to keep dwelling on this, but my son will take FOREVER to get it looked at, as he is so busy, he bought this car to me for Christmas last year, am still hoping I can (with everyone helping), get this resolved and dont have to wait so long.

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One more point, we had to refill the coolant tank when it was replaced, they used NOT DEXCOOL (due to the class action made on DEXCOOL), but used another brand just to refill, any problems on this? Then it was driven probably 4-500 miles before this overheating problem.

The important thing is that the coolant uses compatible chemistry. DexCool is a long-life coolant and has what GM calls OAT - Organic Acid Technology - to protect against corrosion. Older antifreeze (which is green and still in use) uses silicates against corrosion instead. The green silicate antifreeze is not compatible with the orange DexCool. If the stuff you had put in was not green, chances are it was OK. If it was green and contains silicates, you will need to change the coolant to only the green type, and change it more frequently (many people mention once per year) from now on. Once silicates have gone in to the system, they stay in the engine block and degrade the orange long-life DexCool, so once green coolant has been used, you have to stick with it. It also does the job it's supposed to - you only have to change it more often.

When I am at it, I may as well continue: there are also some little pellets that you put into the lower radiator hose when you change coolant. I don't think that they were mandatory for your car, but as I have heard, many people use them anyways (me included). Search for coolant supplement on the forum.

I don't think this is the cause of your overheating condition, but you should be aware of it to avoid future problems.

/Jonas

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  • 2 months later...

The last post I saw on this topic was April 19, 2010.

Cowgirl is the overheating issue resolved and if yes what was the problem?

I have a 2001 Caddy Deville and am having overheating problems.

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Hey cowgirl, please keep us posted. This has to be a known issue. I have read about this problem on many forums. The sad thing is, no one has provided the solution. I had, and having the same problem on a 99 STS. I don't think it's a headgasket problem. I think you were headed in the right direction, or when advice was given for a clog somewhere in the coolant flow. The reason I say this is. I was having the trickling sound behind the dash when I start my car from a cold start. It got progressively worse. I could not make it home from work, which was a 35 min ride without my temp gauge going up two notches past the middle notch. My AC went out. I had to get my AC serviced. They did the work, nothing major. Recharged it. The trickling noise went away. No problems with temp. It's 3 months later and I am starting to hear the coolant trickle noise slightly again. Now my gauge is rising 1 notch now when I get home. I am in Texas and it has been really hot here. I know the heat is contributing to it somewhat, but there is still a problem. I don't know what the problem is, but it has something to do with coolant flow and may be tied into the AC unit and its assembly. This is just something to look into. I am going to have my coolant system checked out. I will let you know what happens and keep me posted on your repairs also. I hope we figure this thing out so we can help everyone else out that is having this problem.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have just made 3-300 mile trips without air, was hot days, no overheating at all. But a 30 mile trip with air on and it spikes up. Son figues it has a small compression leak, I think it has to do with the AC, but who knows. I just dont want to pay big bucks to have someone to check each little detail out, so I live with it. I can run it around town with AC on then turn it off and it is fine, till I leave it on and drive up a hill....then she spikes. Oh well I was raised without AC, but sure would be nice to have it working right again.

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There is no reason for the AC to cause overheating, if anything because the cooling fans run full time while the AC is on, you should see lower peaks and more stable temps.

You need to check the following, if you can answer these questions please do

  1. Does cap hold pressure, if cap is old replace it, make sure it it stock
  2. Is coolant at least 50/50?
  3. Is the purge line clear?
  4. Are the cooling fans working correctly?
  5. Has the thermostat been replaced?
  6. Does the cooling system leak pressure? Has it been pressure tested?
  7. Has the water pump belt been checked/replaced?
  8. Has the water pump belt tensioner been check for free movement and that it applies good tension to belt?
  9. Are you getting pinging?
  10. Are you losing coolant?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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There is no reason for the AC to cause overheating, if anything because the cooling fans run full time while the AC is on, you should see lower peaks and more stable temps.

You need to check the following, if you can answer these questions please do

  1. Does cap hold pressure, if cap is old replace it, make sure it it stock
  2. Is coolant at least 50/50?
  3. Is the purge line clear?
  4. Are the cooling fans working correctly?
  5. Has the thermostat been replaced?
  6. Does the cooling system leak pressure? Has it been pressure tested?
  7. Has the water pump belt been checked/replaced?
  8. Has the water pump belt tensioner been check for free movement and that it applies good tension to belt?
  9. Are you getting pinging?
  10. Are you losing coolant?

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New raditor cap, when I first posted, got it at NAPA, not cadillac dealer?

New water pump, son is mechanic (owns his own business)

New thermostat

Purge line is clear

Fans working

Coolant NOT checked, only for temp for winter.

Pressure not checked

NEVER LOSE ANY coolant 5000 miles now.

The pinging sometimes at start up, however NORTHSTAR says this is normal if you dont do the WOT on it often, when I do it does not ping for a long time.

Maybe I should invest in a cadillac radiator cap, just to see?

I also just read that a defective coolant sensor can make them overheat, and my "check coolant level light comes on each start up" we figured this was just a bad sensor and ignored it. What do you think?

IT HAS NEVER gotten hot-like steam, or any other signs except the gauges show "engine hot, ac off" and only when I run the ac for a while and pull up a pretty steep hill.

Someone took it about 30 miles the other day with air on and it went two notches over normal then came back down, twice and did the same thing coming back. I checked the last time it threw the HOT light on, the top of motor only warm, top rad hose just warm, bottom hose luke warm, coolant bottle HOT, after turned it off fans ran for a while.

I dont know, but it is 92 in Kansas and I about roast, wish a miracle would happen and it would work right again without costing an arm and a leg.

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Ok, took the car for about 30 mile drive, up hills and down, stayed on normal temp. Got about a mile from home, turned on A/C still ok till I got home, since I have a steep driveway I took it up and down that for about three times, then it went to 'HOT, AC OFF, etc'.

I checked under the hood:

No steam, no gurgling, no sounds except cooling fans on.

Top of engine was only 'Warm'.

Top raditor hose was 'Just warm'.

Bottom raditor hose was 'lukewarm'.

Coolant tank was 'HOT'.

No wetness or sticky stuff on tailpipes, all dry and no white fumes or sweet smell at all.

Both fans stayed on after I shut the engine off for about 7 min.

I havent had the radiator checked, could that be the bad boy? OR maybe 'air'? or do you think it is still the HG (NO)

The reason I didn't comment on this was because, you say you drove the car 30 miles and the top of the engine and top hose were just warm and the bottom hose was lukewarm, but you got messages for HOT and AC shut off?..............this was after a 30 mile trip?

Have you checked for codes? That is the place to start, if you have a bad coolant temp sensor that could be the problem, check for codes from your onboard diagnostic computer, if you don't know how, let us know and we will give you the directions

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Check for DTC codes first

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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pulled codes, all history, except one current IPM B0429

no abs, no amp dpm v1000,1164, dps u1064,1016, dim P1536,1000,1164, ipc u1000,1164, ipm b0429 CURRENT,1004, irc u1000,1064,1164,1016, lrd 1000,1164, no pcm, pdm u1000,1164, no rcc, no rfa, rim 1000,1164, rrd 1000, 1164, sdm 1040, no vtd

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pulled codes, all history, except one current IPM B0429

no abs, no amp dpm v1000,1164, dps u1064,1016, dim P1536,1000,1164, ipc u1000,1164, ipm b0429 CURRENT,1004, irc u1000,1064,1164,1016, lrd 1000,1164, no pcm, pdm u1000,1164, no rcc, no rfa, rim 1000,1164, rrd 1000, 1164, sdm 1040, no vtd

P1536 - Engine Coolant Overtemperature - Air Conditioning (A/C) Disabled (not surprisingly)

U1016 - Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM

U1016 - Loss of Communications with PCM

U1064 - Loss of Communications with DIM

U1164 - Loss Of DIM Serial Data Communication

U1000 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction

U1040 - Loss of Class 2 Communications with ABS

B0429 - Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance (won't cause overheating)

That is a lot of network communication problems, lets see what the members say. How is your battery?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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If coolant is green/ and if it was mixed with orange, will it overheat---just a thought. As I added green, just a tiny bit today. Think when it firat started overheating after the reserve was replaced, they added green????

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