Work In Progress...

[adallak]

These other guys know a lot more than I do about draining the transmission........

but this is what I have been thinking of....

I am planning on buying a half dozen "MORE" quarts of fluid than I will actually "NEED" for the service.

After it pumps out several quarts...add the extra fluid in the filler pipe, while it is running, so that it will mix with whats left and get more of the old fluid out.

HEY YOU GUYS.... :D

Please tell me if that is a good idea or not...and why it is or is "NOT" a good idea.

That's what I have done - flushed the transmission with half a gallon of fresh ATF.

[JimD]

I need to look at my radiator and see if my fittings are like the older ones.

I hope so.

You can almost count on having a quick disconnect type fitting. Just slide the nylon collar out of the way and pop the hair pin locking device to release the plumbing to the transmission. Do not lose the tiny O ring on the transmission line!

Then you can remove the other half of the quick disconnect from the radiator and find a fitting (Lowes or Home Depot plumbing section) that will thread into the radiator.

On the other hand, you can trust the fluid life display on the DIC. That is primarily a "temperature" driven countdown and unless you pull a trailer, it will decrement down very slowly.

[CarlaValentine]

....then drop the pan to clean it and check/replace the filter screen (and gasket if need be, but it doesn't leak).

There is no need to drop the pan for cleaning. Whatever clutch material and other nasty stuff has settled in the pan cannot get back into circulation; it will remain where it is forevermore.

I realize this, but I figure if I have to drop the pan anyway to check out the filter screen, then I may as well clean it while it's off.

I just looked in my owner's manual and according to that, this thing holds 15 quarts of transmission fluid. Holy crap! That's a lot more than I was expecting, lol. I hope they sell Dexron VI by the gallon.

[JimD]

....I hope they sell Dexron VI by the gallon.

I have not found any source of Dexron VI in gallon containers.

[Texas Jim]

I need to look at my radiator and see if my fittings are like the older ones.

I hope so.

You can almost count on having a quick disconnect type fitting. Just slide the nylon collar out of the way and pop the hair pin locking device to release the plumbing to the transmission. Do not lose the tiny O ring on the transmission line!

Then you can remove the other half of the quick disconnect from the radiator and find a fitting (Lowes or Home Depot plumbing section) that will thread into the radiator.

On the other hand, you can trust the fluid life display on the DIC.

That is primarily a "temperature" driven countdown and unless you pull a trailer, it will decrement down very slowly.

I don't think the newer ones have the transmission life indicator any more.

If it does...I have never seen it...and I am constantly looking at the different setting in the DIC.

The TPMS may have taken the place of the tranny life indicator...I don't know.

[CarlaValentine]

Hopefully I'll be able to get this done pretty soon. I have to wait for my brother to get his truck out of his garage so I can put my car over the pit in there. I'm thinking it would be a lot easier that way.

I don't have to worry about a road trip any time soon I. Our trip we had planned for this weekend has sadly been cancelled.

My car doesn't have the trans fluid life indicator on it. Just that message on the DIC when the PCM decides it needs to be checked or changed.

I really need to get this water in the dash issue figured out too. I'm going to go out tomorrow and do my best to see if I can figure out where it's coming in from. I noticed earlier that every time I stop the car and put it in park, the DIC says "Check washer fluid" even though it's completely full.... I think my IPC is starting to get some gremlins in it from the water.

[KHE]

Never flush an automatic transmission unless you own the flush machine.... one simple mistake and your trans gets a load of debris from the last car whose transmission was on its last leg and most likely generating tons of debris.

Reverse flush - backflushing clutch material/contaminates through areas of the transmission that are protected by filters is a stupid idea - period...

No GM shop manual or owners manual ever recommends a transmission flush and there is a good reason for that. There is a section in the shop manual about flushing the trans. oil cooler lines but that is different from the flushes that some shops push.

Kevin, I am not sure if I made myself clear. The guru recommended that we drain the tranny fully, by disconnecting the top cooler line, connecting a fitting to the radiator with a hose directed into a 5 gallon container. Idle the car in neutral allowing the pump to pump out the fluid, do not put the car in gear, as soon at the fluid spits turn off the engine. Refill with clean fluid. I had been doing that technique once a year. Mike

This is the fitting that I screw into the top cooler outlet in the radiator

Mike,

When I referred to a flush, I was talking about the machines that the oil change places have and try to push that service on their customers, not the "pump dry" method. I've used the "pump dry" method and then dropped the pan to clean it.

[BodybyFisher]

Thanks Kevin

[CarlaValentine]

Does anyone know the torque spec for the transmission pan bolts? Or if there is a tightening sequence?

[Ranger]

Let me throw my $.02 in just for the hell of it.

First, most dealers DO use a machine because it is much faster. They call it a fluid exchange. It DOES NOT reverse flush. That, as Kevin said is just plain stupid.

Secondly, I have dropped enough trans pans that I would never change the fluid without doing it. I want to get at the filter and change it if there is one (none on the 4T80E), but I also want to clean the pan and especially the magnet that always has 1/4" of clutch muck on it. I DO like the idea of using the trans to pump all the fluid out (incl the torque converter) and THEN dropping a dry pan. No mess as Jim said.

Carla, bolt torque is 6-8 ft lbs. The pattern is much like a head gasket (an increasing spiral). The gasket is reusable as are the screens.

[KHE]

The torque specs. for the transmission pan bolts is:

Initial torque: 27 in-lbs.

Intermediate torque: 53 in-lbs.

Final torque: 106 in-lbs.

Be sure to use the GM gasket as it has the metal spacers. Cheesy, aftermarket cork gaskets will leak and if you torque the bolts to the proper spec, the pan will be distorted. My 1996 Shop manual states he gasket is not to be reused. It is best to consult the manual for your year car.

The torque sequence is in the instructions with the trans. service kit and in the service manual. I use a sharpie market to write the sequence directly on the pan - it makes it SO much easier while under the car on a creeper. After the pan is installed, I use some laquer thinner to remove the markings.

[Bruce Nunnally]

[adallak]

I use a sharpie market to write the sequence directly on the pan - it makes it SO much easier while under the car on a creeper. After the pan is installed, I use some laquer thinner to remove the markings.

That's clever!

[BodybyFisher]

Secondly, I have dropped enough trans pans that I would never change the fluid without doing it. I want to get at the filter and change it if there is one (none on the 4T80E), but I also want to clean the pan and especially the magnet that always has 1/4" of clutch muck on it. I DO like the idea of using the trans to pump all the fluid out (incl the torque converter) and THEN dropping a dry pan. No mess as Jim said.

I agree Ranger, I dont drop the pan every time, but yes the pan needs to be dropped to do the job right. The first time I dropped my pan, I found the filter loose and found a CORK pan gasket.

In between dropping the pan, I pump the fluid out

[CarlaValentine]

Thank you very much! I checked my fluid earlier and it was down about a quart, so I filled it, then looked under the car (I know it doesn't just disappear without a leak) and there is one very small line of mostly dried fluid running down the side of the pan from where the gasket seal is. It wasn't leaking before, so it must have started recently. Guess this means I should go ahead and get a new gasket for it, and I'm going to get a new screen too for my own peace of mind. I don't know for sure how the car was treated before I got it, so I may as well do everything and be sure it's done right.

[manowar77]

Just a question here...is there a oil life monitor for the transmission oil also on STS 1995? Like the oil monitor for the engine oil that indicates a message when its time to change transmission oil?

[CarlaValentine]

Just a question here...is there a oil life monitor for the transmission oil also on STS 1995? Like the oil monitor for the engine oil that indicates a message when its time to change transmission oil?

Mine's a 1994, so it may not be the same system as in your car. Your owner's manual should tell you how this works in your car.

According to my owner's manual, my car has a trans fluid life monitor but it doesn't display a percentage as the oil life one does. Instead, it will just display a message on the DIC saying "check trans fluid" or "change trans fluid" when the PCM determines that it's life is up (or if something is wrong, such as low fluid level). If it doesn't do this before 100,000 miles on its own, then the message displays by default at 100,000 miles.

[manowar77]

Just a question here...is there a oil life monitor for the transmission oil also on STS 1995? Like the oil monitor for the engine oil that indicates a message when its time to change transmission oil?

Mine's a 1994, so it may not be the same system as in your car. Your owner's manual should tell you how this works in your car.

According to my owner's manual, my car has a trans fluid life monitor but it doesn't display a percentage as the oil life one does. Instead, it will just display a message on the DIC saying "check trans fluid" or "change trans fluid" when the PCM determines that it's life is up (or if something is wrong, such as low fluid level). If it doesn't do this before 100,000 miles on its own, then the message displays by default at 100,000 miles.

Ok,thanks! I had the tranny serviced with new oil and all the solenoids 4 years ago...have maybe driven 20000 miles since so iguess it indicates when its time to change oil!

[CarlaValentine]

Just a question here...is there a oil life monitor for the transmission oil also on STS 1995? Like the oil monitor for the engine oil that indicates a message when its time to change transmission oil?

Mine's a 1994, so it may not be the same system as in your car. Your owner's manual should tell you how this works in your car.

According to my owner's manual, my car has a trans fluid life monitor but it doesn't display a percentage as the oil life one does. Instead, it will just display a message on the DIC saying "check trans fluid" or "change trans fluid" when the PCM determines that it's life is up (or if something is wrong, such as low fluid level). If it doesn't do this before 100,000 miles on its own, then the message displays by default at 100,000 miles.

Ok,thanks! I had the tranny serviced with new oil and all the solenoids 4 years ago...have maybe driven 20000 miles since so iguess it indicates when its time to change oil!

It should, yes. Mine was serviced not long ago and my "change trans fluid" message still keeps showing up, which is why I am going to service it again myself. I believe that whoever did it last didn't do it right.

If you feel uneasy about it, check your fluid with the Transmission dipstick. It should look pink or red, not brown. If it's brown, then it's burnt, and it would also have a burnt smell to it. If it still looks pink/red and clean, then I don't think you have to worry about it. If the fluid level is low at all that usually indicates a leak, unless it wasn't filled properly when it was serviced.

[KHE]

Just a question here...is there a oil life monitor for the transmission oil also on STS 1995? Like the oil monitor for the engine oil that indicates a message when its time to change transmission oil?

Mine's a 1994, so it may not be the same system as in your car. Your owner's manual should tell you how this works in your car.

According to my owner's manual, my car has a trans fluid life monitor but it doesn't display a percentage as the oil life one does. Instead, it will just display a message on the DIC saying "check trans fluid" or "change trans fluid" when the PCM determines that it's life is up (or if something is wrong, such as low fluid level). If it doesn't do this before 100,000 miles on its own, then the message displays by default at 100,000 miles.

Ok,thanks! I had the tranny serviced with new oil and all the solenoids 4 years ago...have maybe driven 20000 miles since so iguess it indicates when its time to change oil!

It should, yes. Mine was serviced not long ago and my "change trans fluid" message still keeps showing up, which is why I am going to service it again myself. I believe that whoever did it last didn't do it right.

If you feel uneasy about it, check your fluid with the Transmission dipstick. It should look pink or red, not brown. If it's brown, then it's burnt, and it would also have a burnt smell to it. If it still looks pink/red and clean, then I don't think you have to worry about it. If the fluid level is low at all that usually indicates a leak, unless it wasn't filled properly when it was serviced.

It is likely that whoever serviced the trans. did not know how to reset the trans fluid life indicator. From memory, I think simultaneously pressing and holding the OFF and REAR DEFROST buttons until "Trans fluid life reset" is displayed is the technique.

Just because the trans. fluid is not bright red, doesn't mean it is burned. The red color is a dye that is added to the fluid so the assembly plants can differentiate it from motor oil. Over time, the red color will fade. Perfectly normal. If the fluid is burned, you will know it - it almost has the stentch of burned popcorn...

[CarlaValentine]

Just a question here...is there a oil life monitor for the transmission oil also on STS 1995? Like the oil monitor for the engine oil that indicates a message when its time to change transmission oil?

Mine's a 1994, so it may not be the same system as in your car. Your owner's manual should tell you how this works in your car.

According to my owner's manual, my car has a trans fluid life monitor but it doesn't display a percentage as the oil life one does. Instead, it will just display a message on the DIC saying "check trans fluid" or "change trans fluid" when the PCM determines that it's life is up (or if something is wrong, such as low fluid level). If it doesn't do this before 100,000 miles on its own, then the message displays by default at 100,000 miles.

Ok,thanks! I had the tranny serviced with new oil and all the solenoids 4 years ago...have maybe driven 20000 miles since so iguess it indicates when its time to change oil!

It should, yes. Mine was serviced not long ago and my "change trans fluid" message still keeps showing up, which is why I am going to service it again myself. I believe that whoever did it last didn't do it right.

If you feel uneasy about it, check your fluid with the Transmission dipstick. It should look pink or red, not brown. If it's brown, then it's burnt, and it would also have a burnt smell to it. If it still looks pink/red and clean, then I don't think you have to worry about it. If the fluid level is low at all that usually indicates a leak, unless it wasn't filled properly when it was serviced.

It is likely that whoever serviced the trans. did not know how to reset the trans fluid life indicator. From memory, I think simultaneously pressing and holding the OFF and REAR DEFROST buttons until "Trans fluid life reset" is displayed is the technique.

Just because the trans. fluid is not bright red, doesn't mean it is burned. The red color is a dye that is added to the fluid so the assembly plants can differentiate it from motor oil. Over time, the red color will fade. Perfectly normal. If the fluid is burned, you will know it - it almost has the stentch of burned popcorn...

Burnt Popcorn! I was trying to think of something to compare the smell to and couldn't. I have smelled it before, and it's a pretty foul smell.

You are right about how to reset the trans fluid indicator. I've reset mine about 4 or 5 times now, and it always comes back within a day or so. Maybe it's a glitch in the system. I'll know better when I change it next if it stays gone or not.

[KHE]

I've reset mine about 4 or 5 times now, and it always comes back within a day or so. Maybe it's a glitch in the system. I'll know better when I change it next if it stays gone or not.

If the TRANS FLUID RESET message appears when you reset the trans fluid life monitor, there is something going on with the PCM. The PCM can't tell if you've changed the fluid - it can only be informed when you manually reset the system. Changing the trans. fluid won't solve the problem of the trans fluid life decreasing to zero and displaying the CHANGE TRANS FLUID message.

[Ranger]

The trans fluid monitor will only tell you to change the fluid if it has been overheated. It does not decrement like the OLM.

Carla, you do realize that you check the trans fluid hot, running and in park, don't you? Otherwise it WILL indicate low.

No need to replace the screens. They are reusable. Clean them (if necessary) and reinstall them.

[CarlaValentine]

The trans fluid monitor will only tell you to change the fluid if it has been overheated. It does not decrement like the OLM.

Carla, you do realize that you check the trans fluid hot, running and in park, don't you? Otherwise it WILL indicate low.

No need to replace the screens. They are reusable. Clean them (if necessary) and reinstall them.

Maybe I do have something wrong with either the PCM or the IPC. Like I said, it keeps displaying the "check washer fluid" message, and now it's also saying "AC refrigerant level low. AC compressor off" even when I'm not running the heat or anything, and I had the AC unit checked for leaks and there aren't any. It's those stinkin Gremlins I tell ya.... If I have any more funky messages show up I think I might look into replacing either the IPC or the PCM.

Yes, I do know how to check the trans fluid. Operating temp, shift through all gears first, put in park and make sure it's on level ground. Perhaps that's how the last person to service it overfilled it..maybe he/she checked it with the engine off and/or cold.

I reset the trans message again before my boyfriend left with it for work, so I'll ask him when he gets home if it came back on.

Oh yes, and to add insult to injury, I stopped by the parts store earlier today to see if they could order the gasket for me. My friend that works there looked out the window at my car and asked me if the trunk was full of cinder blocks. Imagine my confusion since my trunk was empty. I look and my rear shocks are flat....yippee! That would explain why it felt like it was riding on bricks. I put air in them and by the time I got home they were flat again. I checked all the air lines and couldn't find a leak so I'm thinking it's the air bags on the shocks. The compressor was bypassed with an air fitting before I got the car because it stopped working.

I've got 2 ideas bouncing around in my head to fix it. One would be to get regular after market shocks (not air ones) and use those, but I need to find a set rated for the weight of my car and all.

The other would be to get a new compressor and new air shocks just like the ones that came in it stock.

Obviously putting after market ones in is going to be cheaper, but lets pretend money isn't an issue.

Does anyone see a problem with using aftermarket ones? Or should I go all out and redo the original setup?

I'm telling you, this car is really earning my respect for having to go through so much on it lately. At least I'm willing to do it.

[adallak]

Carla, PCMs do go south. I would make sure it is grounded properly first. Measure the voltage between the PCM and battery negative. Should not be more than 0.5 V. Before spending ANY money on not vital items like shocks etc, I would make sure the powertarin is fine.