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Carla, being a 1994, there is a reprogrammed PCM for your car that changes the lockup schedule of the torque converter that might help your problem. My 1995 has that problem every once in a while, and I want to change that chip the next time I get the $100 that needs a good place to go. You need to find part number 16266762 for your 1994. Considering that yours comes on quickly and easily, yours is probably slipping more than mine, so this chip might not totally fix your problem. I would think it likely that each slip event makes future slips more likely, so I'm careful to downshift to 3 if I need to go uphill at 55 mph. I'm trying to baby that until I can change the chip. It's still a lot cheaper to try this chip than replacing the TCC clutch! As you said, mine doesn't happen until it tries to climb a gentle hill between 45 and 55 mph-romping on the throttle doesn't do it as it tends to unlock it under high throttle opening.

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Carla, being a 1994, there is a reprogrammed PCM for your car that changes the lockup schedule of the torque converter that might help your problem. My 1995 has that problem every once in a while, and I want to change that chip the next time I get the $100 that needs a good place to go. You need to find part number 16266762 for your 1994. Considering that yours comes on quickly and easily, yours is probably slipping more than mine, so this chip might not totally fix your problem. I would think it likely that each slip event makes future slips more likely, so I'm careful to downshift to 3 if I need to go uphill at 55 mph. I'm trying to baby that until I can change the chip. It's still a lot cheaper to try this chip than replacing the TCC clutch! As you said, mine doesn't happen until it tries to climb a gentle hill between 45 and 55 mph-romping on the throttle doesn't do it as it tends to unlock it under high throttle opening.

I found the part number for the chip on another post, and it's the same number you listed. I have called everywhere, even the local GM dealership, and NO ONE has it available. Any ideas on where I may be able to find one? The guy at the GM dealership said something about it being a discontinued part...

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I've been Just Driving it! I just don't want any more little problems that are going to turn into BIG problems. I've had enough of that for a while. On the upside, thanks to this forum and me doing my own work, it only cost me about 250$ in parts to get it running good again, and I don't need to worry about plugs and wires for a while. :D

Just think what it would have cost you, if you were not able to do it yourself.

I would guess, offhand...around $1000...maybe more.

You have done a lot of good troubleshooting and made some nice repairs on your car.

Congratulations to you.

:D

Thank you! It's always nice to hear a "congrats" from someone else. It's been a long few weeks, but being able to drive my car again is a great reward for my efforts. It still has a few bugs, but nothing that impairs its drive-ability. I'm looking forward to keeping this car on the road for as long as I possibly can. Though it's caused me some grief, it's still the best car I have ever owned, and I think having to work on it myself has made me appreciate it a lot more.

I established yesterday that it will leave rubber tracks about 15-20 feet long on dry pavement....though that wasn't the intention! It picks up a lot better now than it used to. I gotta get used to that.biggrin.gif It also sounds great now!

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My 93 Eldo with 214k miles has had the TCC lock up (P039) problem going on for a number of years.

Initially it would only set once in a blue moon, on slight inclines.

Recently it's been setting more frequiently even on level pavement.

I typically use 3rd gear when getting up to highway speed.

The SES resets with the next ignition cycle.

The downside is that MPG drops off by 10% when the trans releases the TCC.

My 93 has been an excelent car with very few problems.

Changing gears...

I would recommend that you de-carbon your engine every 100k miles. This improves the functioning of the EGR system and increases gas mileage by 10%. There are instructions on how to do this in the archive. I was able to lift up the passinger side of the intake manifold just enough to use a 2X4 as a stand off. The Phenolic spacers come out real easy. I used rags in each port while scraping out the carbon and then a vaccuum to get the loose particles. Clean out the "V" mouse holes. The entrie job takes a couple of hours.

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My 93 Eldo with 214k miles has had the TCC lock up (P039) problem going on for a number of years.

Initially it would only set once in a blue moon, on slight inclines.

Recently it's been setting more frequiently even on level pavement.

I typically use 3rd gear when getting up to highway speed.

The SES resets with the next ignition cycle.

The downside is that MPG drops off by 10% when the trans releases the TCC.

My 93 has been an excelent car with very few problems.

Changing gears...

I would recommend that you de-carbon your engine every 100k miles. This improves the functioning of the EGR system and increases gas mileage by 10%. There are instructions on how to do this in the archive. I was able to lift up the passinger side of the intake manifold just enough to use a 2X4 as a stand off. The Phenolic spacers come out real easy. I used rags in each port while scraping out the carbon and then a vaccuum to get the loose particles. Clean out the "V" mouse holes. The entrie job takes a couple of hours.

When I first got the car, I never got the P039 code. About a month later, it would show up going uphill once in a while. Shortly after that (about 2 months) it started setting EVERY time I hit 40-45mph no matter what the road conditions, and has been doing it ever since, unless I practically floor the throttle until it passes 45mph. Any other case of this code I have read about got worse over a long period of time. Mine has gotten worse in just a few months, so it does concern me a little bit.

I fully intend to clean out the entire EGR system. I have the new EGR valve gasket sitting in my tool box. I've read up on the job quite a bit, and due to it being time consuming I want to wait until the weather warms up before I delve into that. If I start having problems sooner than that, then I will have to do it in the cold, but so far all seems ok. I'm a little weary about doing it. I'm always afraid I am going to break something or mess something up when I have to do something new, but I can't learn if I don't do it. I'll most likely have help. My brother seems pretty interested in what this process consists of and wants to help out with it. Who knows, maybe it will go a little quicker with 2 people working on it.

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My 93 Eldo with 214k miles has had the TCC lock up (P039) problem going on for a number of years.

Initially it would only set once in a blue moon, on slight inclines.

Recently it's been setting more frequiently even on level pavement.

I typically use 3rd gear when getting up to highway speed.

The SES resets with the next ignition cycle.

The downside is that MPG drops off by 10% when the trans releases the TCC.

My 93 has been an excelent car with very few problems.

Changing gears...

I would recommend that you de-carbon your engine every 100k miles. This improves the functioning of the EGR system and increases gas mileage by 10%. There are instructions on how to do this in the archive. I was able to lift up the passinger side of the intake manifold just enough to use a 2X4 as a stand off. The Phenolic spacers come out real easy. I used rags in each port while scraping out the carbon and then a vaccuum to get the loose particles. Clean out the "V" mouse holes. The entrie job takes a couple of hours.

When I first got the car, I never got the P039 code. About a month later, it would show up going uphill once in a while. Shortly after that (about 2 months) it started setting EVERY time I hit 40-45mph no matter what the road conditions, and has been doing it ever since, unless I practically floor the throttle until it passes 45mph. Any other case of this code I have read about got worse over a long period of time. Mine has gotten worse in just a few months, so it does concern me a little bit.

I fully intend to clean out the entire EGR system. I have the new EGR valve gasket sitting in my tool box. I've read up on the job quite a bit, and due to it being time consuming I want to wait until the weather warms up before I delve into that. If I start having problems sooner than that, then I will have to do it in the cold, but so far all seems ok. I'm a little weary about doing it. I'm always afraid I am going to break something or mess something up when I have to do something new, but I can't learn if I don't do it. I'll most likely have help. My brother seems pretty interested in what this process consists of and wants to help out with it. Who knows, maybe it will go a little quicker with 2 people working on it.

Any shudder when the code shows up?

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Any shudder when the code shows up?

Not that I have noticed. The RPM's jump up about 200 or so when it happens though, and it feels a little sluggish picking up speed for a few seconds. Other than that I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary.

*Edit* Actually there is one other thing. After the code sets and I have to stop for any reason, when I take off again it feels like the trans is sort of slipping from 1st to 2nd gear. It takes a little longer than normal to fully shift. It doesn't do this though unless the code has set and I have not yet turned off the car to reset it. It normally shifts perfectly.

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I would start by looking at the wiring to the transmission and making sure that the connector is clean and tight. The next thing I would do is to have the transmission serviced.

If you have your transmission serviced at a dealer recently, they will flush the transmission. I recommend this at least once because draining the fluid, and the torque converter if you can, leaves several quarts of fluid in the transmission. The current GM ATF is Dextron VI, which gives your transmission significantly improved life. If you do this, be sure and tell them to flush the cooler, too, although I believe that this is part of the dealer service.

I'm sure that some will jump in here and tell you to service the transmission the old way, by dropping the pan and cleaning it out, and changing the pickup screen (which is the filter, in transmission-ese) and that is likely better. But you will still have a significant percentage of Dextron III in there if you don't flush the system.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I would start by looking at the wiring to the transmission and making sure that the connector is clean and tight. The next thing I would do is to have the transmission serviced.

If you have your transmission serviced at a dealer recently, they will flush the transmission. I recommend this at least once because draining the fluid, and the torque converter if you can, leaves several quarts of fluid in the transmission. The current GM ATF is Dextron VI, which gives your transmission significantly improved life. If you do this, be sure and tell them to flush the cooler, too, although I believe that this is part of the dealer service.

I'm sure that some will jump in here and tell you to service the transmission the old way, by dropping the pan and cleaning it out, and changing the pickup screen (which is the filter, in transmission-ese) and that is likely better. But you will still have a significant percentage of Dextron III in there if you don't flush the system.

There is a way to get rid of all the old ATF by disconnecting a transmission cooler line and running the engine in PARK or NEWTRAL untill all the transmission fluid is pumped out. Then one can replace the filter and clean up the pan. I have done it twice.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I would start by looking at the wiring to the transmission and making sure that the connector is clean and tight. The next thing I would do is to have the transmission serviced.

If you have your transmission serviced at a dealer recently, they will flush the transmission. I recommend this at least once because draining the fluid, and the torque converter if you can, leaves several quarts of fluid in the transmission. The current GM ATF is Dextron VI, which gives your transmission significantly improved life. If you do this, be sure and tell them to flush the cooler, too, although I believe that this is part of the dealer service.

I'm sure that some will jump in here and tell you to service the transmission the old way, by dropping the pan and cleaning it out, and changing the pickup screen (which is the filter, in transmission-ese) and that is likely better. But you will still have a significant percentage of Dextron III in there if you don't flush the system.

I will definitely check the wiring. I know the transmission fluid and screen were changed a few weeks before I got it, but I don't know if it was flushed. All the service receipt says is transmission service: fluid change, screen change. It doesn't specify if it was flushed or what kind of fluid was put in it. It was also done at a local garage rather than a shop or dealer, and whoever did it overfilled the fluid A LOT! When I got the car and was checking fluids, I pulled the trans dipstick out and fluid blew out everywhere. I had almost 8 quarts siphoned out of it with a pump before the level actually read normal on the dipstick. I didn't even know it was POSSIBLE to overfill it by that much, but someone did. Judging by the lack of brains the person who serviced it obviously had, I doubt it was flushed. I also can't clear the "Check Transmission Fluid" message from my DIC. Every time I do it comes back and the level is fine.

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All that is necessary is for the bottom pan to be removed, or for the fluid to be pumped out via the upper oil cooler line (ask for procedure), but DO NOT ever go for one of those FLUSHES that is advertised, just drop the pan and change the filters, NEVER FLUSH

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Is it true that I would have to pull the Trans to change the solenoid? I wish I knew for sure if it was that or the TCC itself that's causing a problem....

I've been driving it for 4 months now like this and no major problems yet. (At least none related to it) I cringe every time I see that SES light now though, lol. I'm so used to it meaning something worse. unsure.gif

I assume you mean the TCC solenoid. Theoretically yes, but I think you can do it by just lowering the cradle on the drivers side enough to get the side pan off. I think BBF did it.

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All that is necessary is for the bottom pan to be removed, or for the fluid to be pumped out via the upper oil cooler line (ask for procedure), but DO NOT ever go for one of those FLUSHES that is advertised, just drop the pan and change the filters, NEVER FLUSH

I've read that there is never a guarantee that the pump used to flush the system is clean, and you could end up putting crud from the last trans flush right into your own system via reverse flow. I haven't seen much that says it IS a good idea, except of course from people/places that get paid to do it themselves, but that is for their benefit most likely, not ours.

I think I'd rather take the cooler line method. It sounds a lot safer to me. Besides, then I will be the one doing it and I can be sure it gets done right. I really have an issue trusting other people to work on my car....unsure.gif

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Never flush an automatic transmission unless you own the flush machine.... one simple mistake and your trans gets a load of debris from the last car whose transmission was on its last leg and most likely generating tons of debris.

Reverse flush - backflushing clutch material/contaminates through areas of the transmission that are protected by filters is a stupid idea - period...

No GM shop manual or owners manual ever recommends a transmission flush and there is a good reason for that. There is a section in the shop manual about flushing the trans. oil cooler lines but that is different from the flushes that some shops push.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Never flush an automatic transmission unless you own the flush machine.... one simple mistake and your trans gets a load of debris from the last car whose transmission was on its last leg and most likely generating tons of debris.

Reverse flush - backflushing clutch material/contaminates through areas of the transmission that are protected by filters is a stupid idea - period...

No GM shop manual or owners manual ever recommends a transmission flush and there is a good reason for that. There is a section in the shop manual about flushing the trans. oil cooler lines but that is different from the flushes that some shops push.

Kevin, I am not sure if I made myself clear. The guru recommended that we drain the tranny fully, by disconnecting the top cooler line, connecting a fitting to the radiator with a hose directed into a 5 gallon container. Idle the car in neutral allowing the pump to pump out the fluid, do not put the car in gear, as soon at the fluid spits turn off the engine. Refill with clean fluid. I had been doing that technique once a year. Mike

This is the fitting that I screw into the top cooler outlet in the radiator

Tranny_Drain_Attachment_1_.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Never flush an automatic transmission unless you own the flush machine.... one simple mistake and your trans gets a load of debris from the last car whose transmission was on its last leg and most likely generating tons of debris.

Reverse flush - backflushing clutch material/contaminates through areas of the transmission that are protected by filters is a stupid idea - period...

No GM shop manual or owners manual ever recommends a transmission flush and there is a good reason for that. There is a section in the shop manual about flushing the trans. oil cooler lines but that is different from the flushes that some shops push.

Kevin, I am not sure if I made myself clear. The guru recommended that we drain the tranny fully, by disconnecting the top cooler line, connecting a fitting to the radiator with a hose directed into a 5 gallon container. Idle the car in neutral allowing the pump to pump out the fluid, do not put the car in gear, as soon at the fluid spits turn off the engine. Refill with clean fluid. I had been doing that technique once a year. Mike

This is the fitting that I screw into the top cooler outlet in the radiator

Tranny_Drain_Attachment_1_.jpg

If I understand this right, you would then be draining the fluid from the radiator cooling line fitting, not one of the lines already attached to the trans, correct?

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On the driver side of my 96 Deville, I have two cooler lines one high and one low. Disconnect the top line, screw that fitting into the radiator, attach a hose to it, clamp it, direct it into a bucket, IDLE the engine, in NEUTRAL, watching, once the stream sputters, turn the engine off immediately, you have gotten more fluid out of the tranny this way, compared to just dropping the pan.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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This is the fourth time I have attempted to post this reply. Every time I click on "Add Reply" or "Preview Post" the post gets blown away and I am presented with the forum main page. This time I'm writing it in Notepad and will clipboard copy it until it takes.

I told you that people would jump in about flushing, and it's all good advice. Normally I would let it go at that but your transmission was recently "serviced" by someone who overfilled it by several quarts, something is causing a "Check transmission fluid" message on the DIC, and you are getting an OBD DTC about the transmission. So, I would service it again, soon, certainly before taking it on a road trip. I would want the pan off to see what was up in there. Check the fluid level sensor, and make sure that the filter is the right one and that it is OK and installed correctly.

There is only one fluid out there for your transmission, Dextron VI. See the Wikipedia article:

Note that there are some aftermarket products out there that claim to be Dextron III compatible or compliant, but there is no such thing because GM does not certify any Dextron III products by anyone anymore, and recommends Dextron VI for any GM transmission that ever used any version of Dextron.

If whoever "serviced" your transmission badly overfilled it, this would make me wonder what they overfilled it with. In any case, since flushing it yourself or any other way inherently means monitoring the fluid level pretty closely, you can be sure that they did not flush it. Thus part of the job would mean flushing out whatever is in there and making sure that your 4T80E has Dextron VI in it.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Kevin, I am not sure if I made myself clear. The guru recommended that we drain the tranny fully, by disconnecting the top cooler line, connecting a fitting to the radiator with a hose directed into a 5 gallon container. Idle the car in neutral allowing the pump to pump out the fluid, do not put the car in gear, as soon at the fluid spits turn off the engine. Refill with clean fluid. I had been doing that technique once a year. Mike

I'm also an advocate of the "pump it dry" technique. It's a clean, neat, no need to get under the car, and no fluid dripping off your elbows method of removing ALL the fluid from the transmission.

The next time I do the job (sometime in 2010) I plan on refilling with Dexron VI.

Owners of '98+ Sevilles and 2000+ Devilles will have to deal with a quick-disconnect transmission line fitting at the radiator, but that is not much of a hill to climb.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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I really appreciate everyone's input on this. I've formed an opinion on my best course of action, and I think that would be to go ahead and drain the fluid via cooler line method, then drop the pan to clean it and check/replace the filter screen (and gasket if need be, but it doesn't leak).

I only have 2 other questions (at least that I can think of right now).

1. With draining the fluid from the cooler line outlet on the radiator, isn't there a good possibility of getting an air pocket in the cooler line when I hook it back up? If so, will it cause any problems? I know air pockets in the Engine cooling system aren't good, so I would think the same may apply for the trans.

2. Considering I won't be able to get EVERY drop of coolant out of it and I don't know what's in it, is there a way to find out? And is there a problem with the Dexron VI mixing with the little bit of fluid that IS left behind?

I don't mean to Harpoon everyone with questions, but if I'm going to do it, I want it done right.

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My car is only 3 years old, but it now has just a hair over 75,000 miles on it.

It is probably time to drain and refill the transmission.

It has been driven a "JUST A LITTLE BIT" over the speed limit a time or three. :bluesbrothers:

I need to look at my radiator and see if my fittings are like the older ones.

I hope so.

That would make it a lot easier to change the fluid.

I need to make me a fitting like the one in the picture.

Probably need to change the coolant at the same time...after all, it is a NorthStar, and so far, a darn good one.

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....then drop the pan to clean it and check/replace the filter screen (and gasket if need be, but it doesn't leak).

There is no need to drop the pan for cleaning. Whatever clutch material and other nasty stuff has settled in the pan cannot get back into circulation; it will remain where it is forevermore.

1. With draining the fluid from the cooler line outlet on the radiator, isn't there a good possibility of getting an air pocket in the cooler line when I hook it back up?

Nothing to worry about at the fluid pressures involved.

2. Considering I won't be able to get EVERY drop of coolant out of it and I don't know what's in it, is there a way to find out?

Not without an expensive chemical analysis. If your tranny is shifting properly with what is in there now, you can be sure the fluid is Dexron III or at least a compatible fluid.

And is there a problem with the Dexron VI mixing with the little bit of fluid that IS left behind?

No.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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These other guys know a lot more than I do about draining the transmission........

but this is what I have been thinking of....

I am planning on buying a half dozen "MORE" quarts of fluid than I will actually "NEED" for the service.

After it pumps out several quarts...add the extra fluid in the filler pipe, while it is running, so that it will mix with whats left and get more of the old fluid out.

HEY YOU GUYS.... :D :D :D

Please tell me if that is a good idea or not...and why it is or is "NOT" a good idea.

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....I am planning on buying a half dozen "MORE" quarts of fluid than I will actually "NEED" for the service.

After it pumps out several quarts...add the extra fluid in the filler pipe, while it is running, so that it will mix with whats left and get more of the old fluid out.

No need to buy more than 12 quarts and no need to try to add fluid while pumping it dry.

In fact, I suggest you use a hose long enough to reach a bucket placed at the driver's door so you can sit behind the wheel ready to kill the engine when the fluid stops flowing.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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....I am planning on buying a half dozen "MORE" quarts of fluid than I will actually "NEED" for the service.

After it pumps out several quarts...add the extra fluid in the filler pipe, while it is running, so that it will mix with whats left and get more of the old fluid out.

No need to buy more than 12 quarts and no need to try to add fluid while pumping it dry.

In fact, I suggest you use a hose long enough to reach a bucket placed at the driver's door so you can sit behind the wheel ready to kill the engine when the fluid stops flowing.

Thanks JimD,

Will do.

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