did the R&R of the rad, but i gotta tranny fluid leak

[KenD]

I did the R&R of the rad. It was a major PITA! Took me 4 hours. Word of advice.....don't start this project at 8:30 at night and hope for the best, lol, set aside a Sat/Sun afternoon!

In any case, it was a real pain to get it in and out, but it's done and my biggest worry was breaking off one of the cooler lines as they were quite rusty. All seems to be good and I DO know that I when i reattached the cooler lines on the left of the rad (the side with the larger nuts) i had them nice and snug. Now, if i have it running in Park, there are no leaks at all and things run smooth. As soon as i put it into gear I start getting a puddle of tranny fluid eminating from the passenger side of the rad. I could swear that side of the rad was for the oil and not tranny. Now I'm confused. It's the side without the flared connecting ends. I don't know whether i lost an o-ring or something or i busted a line somehow. I can't see that happening but I'm looking for someones best guess.

Of course it has to be the side where i have to take EVERYTHING apart to get at. Saved $250 in labour though.........

Any suggestions?

[BodybyFisher]

Ken, I looked at the diagram. Those oil cooler lines are the same as the ones on my 91 Seville. When I had my tranny done, they loosened the cooler lines and they leaked badly on reassembly and they gave me the car back that way, what jerks

Once those o rings are disturbed they need replacing the are compressed, hard, brittle and they crack

Here is a bulletin

ENGINE OIL COOLER LINES LEAK OIL (APPLY ADHESIVE TO OIL #83-62-12 - (Aug 25, 1998)

SUBJECT: ENGINE OIL COOLER LINES LEAK OIL (APPLY ADHESIVE TO OIL COOLER LINE NUT)

MODELS: 1993-97 CADILLAC SEVILLE 1993-98 CADILLAC DEVILLE, ELDORADO

CONDITION:

SOME CUSTOMERS MAY COMMENT THAT THE ENGINE OIL COOLER LINES APPEAR TO BE LEAKING OIL AT THE ATTACHMENT POINT TO THE ENGINE. THIS CONDITION IS MOST OFTEN FOUND DURING PRE-DELIVERY INSPECTIONS.

CAUSE:

THE NUT ON THE ENGINE OIL COOLER INLET AND OUTLET LINE ASSEMBLIES AT THE ENGINE OIL FILTER ADAPTER MAY BECOME LOOSE.

CORRECTION:

1. FOR VEHICLES BUILT AFTER JUNE 20, 1998:

- VEHICLES BUILT AFTER JUNE 20, 1998 WILL HAVE AN ADHESIVE COATING APPLIED TO THE THREADS OF THE CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE OIL COOLER LINE AND ENGINE ASSEMBLY AND A HIGHER TORQUE SPECIFICATION FOR THE OIL COOLER LINE NUT AT THE ENGINE OIL FILTER ADAPTER. THE ADHESIVE HAS BEEN ADDED TO IMPROVE A CONDITION WHERE THE OIL LINES HAVE BEEN LOOSENING TO THE POINT THAT THE ENGINE LOOSES MOST OF ITS' OIL AND BEARING FAILURE HAS OCCURRED. RE-TIGHTENING THE OIL COOLER LINE NUT WILL BREAK THE BOND OF ADHESIVE AND NEGATE THE BENEFIT OF ADDING ADHESIVE TO THE CONNECTION AND IS NOT RECOMMENDED WITH THE INCREASED TORQUE SPECIFICATION. SOME RESIDUAL OIL MAY EXIST ON THE CONNECTION AFTER IT LEAVES THE ASSEMBLY PLANT (THIS IS NORMAL). IF THERE IS ANY QUESTION AS TO THE CONNECTION LEAKING, AN ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT SOURCE AND DYE SHOULD BE USED TO ASSURE THE CONNECTION IS BAD.

IMPORTANT:

DO NOT JUST TIGHTEN THE CONNECTION.

2. FOR VEHICLE REPAIRS:

- VEHICLES THAT NEED THE OIL COOLER INLET AND OUTLET LINE ASSEMBLIES DISCONNECTED AT THE ENGINE OIL FILTER ADAPTER OR HAVE A LEAK REPAIRED, SHOULD HAVE THE OIL COOLER LINE NUT THREADS CLEANED AND GM GOODWRENCH/LOCTITE® 272 THREADLOCKER ADHESIVE (OR AN EQUIVALENT ADHESIVE THAT MEETS GM MATERIAL SPECIFICATION 9985399) ADDED BEFORE REINSTALLATION. TORQUE THE OIL COOLER LINE NUT AT THE ENGINE OIL FILTER ADAPTER TO 45 N.M (33 LB FT).

WARRANTY INFORMATION:

FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE:

LABOR OPERATION LABOR OPERATION NUMBER DESCRIPTION TIME =============== ================================= ===============

J3166 HOSE AND/OR LINE, ENGINE OIL 0.5 HR* COOLER - REPLACE

*REPAIR TIME IS FOR ENGINE OIL COOLER INLET AND OUTLET LINE ASSEMBLIES AT THE ENGINE OIL FILTER ADAPTER THAT ARE DISCONNECTED OR HAVE A LEAK REPAIRED.

FIGURES: 01 ATTACHMENTS: 00

FIGURE 1 1. ENGINE OIL COOLER INLET LINE ASSEMBLY 2. ENGINE OIL COOLER OUTLET LINE ASSEMBLY 3. RADIATOR ASSEMBLY 4. NUT 5. O-RING 6. ENGINE 7. ENGINE OIL FILTER ADAPTER 8. COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY

Photo from a 96

[KenD]

So i will have to go back in and take out my fans, etc to get to that bottom side of the rad (by alternator) and unscrew the line and put another o-ring on teh attachment and retighten? Any idea of what size o-ring, where to get them, or if an adhesive will just do the trick?

GAWD another night in the garage, lol.

thanks bbf and it's line #2 in your diagram that I believe would be leaking. Tough to put it into gear and check for leaks when you're the only one doing it.

[BodybyFisher]

I went to the dealer and they supplied the orings but I have heard them say that you need to buy the line, hopefully you can visit your parts counter and get the oring, try sending gmotors.com a request...

[BodybyFisher]

I bought a pack of the orings, if you cant get them, i can send you a few if I can find them

[KenD]

can you tell me the diametre of the o-ring you used. I have a bunch that might just fit.

ken

[BodybyFisher]

can you tell me the diametre of the o-ring you used. I have a bunch that might just fit.

ken

Ken, I have 4 of these o-rings, let me know if you want me to mail them if you cant find them locally, Mike (I'm good....)

Part Number 25533913 $1.74 $1.03

Engine / transaxle - Engine parts - Oil filter - O-ring

O-ring - 4.9 liter 1994 - 1995

Add to Cart Contact Us

25533913 $1.74 $1.03

Cooling - Engine oil cooler - Hose - O-ring

O-ring - 4.6 liter 1993 - 2002

Add to Cart Contact Us

25533913 $1.74 $1.03

Engine / transaxle - Engine parts - Cooler line - O-ring

O-ring - 4.9 liter 1992 - 1993

[BodybyFisher]

can you tell me the diametre of the o-ring you used. I have a bunch that might just fit.

ken

The problem with measuring these is that you need to measure the diameter of the rubber itself and also the diamter of the oring, ie the hole in the middle. I recall pulling my hair out trying to find replacement orings and gave up and got them from gmotors, I think my local dealer didnt have them

[KenD]

thanks for this information. I'll try and swing be the gm dealer and pick one up.

I'll pound a beer for ya tonight too while ripping this thing apart again.

Ken

[BodybyFisher]

thanks for this information. I'll try and swing be the gm dealer and pick one up.

I'll pound a beer for ya tonight too while ripping this thing apart again.

Ken

No problem, let me know if you want these, Ill put them in overnight mail tomorrow

[rockfangd]

those line connectors suck, they are a problem on many gm vehicles on both the tranny side and the cooler side.

I usually replace the whole fitting with he new ring on it.

Also you have to be careful when you install the fittings onto the radiator that you do not overtighten the fitting as it can crack the radiatior without you knowing it until it is too late. Good luck to you

[KenD]

Okay, upon further inspection it's an oil leak NOT the tranny fluid i suspected. Helps when you have daylight and can see the colour alot easier. So, i did find the gaskets/o-rings and just bought two of them just in case. $4.00 total. Gonna have to put the car on jacks and put it into drive to just see where that leak is coming from specifically, but i'm quite certain its the lower cooler line into the rad since I broke the original factory seal on it. What's funny is that it doesn't leak when it's in P or N, but when it's in gear.

[BodybyFisher]

I was under the impression that it was an OIL leak all along the diagram I posted for you is the oil cooler

Its probably that when the car is in gear, the engine moves and causes the leak at the oring

[KenD]

your help has been fantastic guys! I will rip it apart again. I wish i had air tools....would make things go ALOT faster!

[KenD]

Just wanted to update you all on what i had found and done to repair the problem.

I had thought it was my lower oil cooler line that was leaking and so i pulled all the components out needed to get a good handle on taking it off and putting the new o-ring on it. Fine, did it, ran it for a whole 2 days and i'm still leaking oil. Get the "check oil level" on DIC and thinking WTH? So, open the hood and I'm literally have a small stream of oil coming out of my upper oil cooler line. Now, I did have a heck of a time getting that line seated and threaded properly the first go round so hindsight is 20/20 and I win this time since i bought TWO o-rings, lol. So, back in the shop I go to rip most of it apart again and put the new o-ring on the upper oil cooler line. Stretch the crap out the line the best I could to get it seated properly in the female end of the rad and screwed it in tight.

Viola, no more leak!

thanks for all of your help. I can now change a rad out in less than 2 hours including clean up. lol

Ken

[BodybyFisher]

Just wanted to update you all on what i had found and done to repair the problem.

I had thought it was my lower oil cooler line that was leaking and so i pulled all the components out needed to get a good handle on taking it off and putting the new o-ring on it. Fine, did it, ran it for a whole 2 days and i'm still leaking oil. Get the "check oil level" on DIC and thinking WTH? So, open the hood and I'm literally have a small stream of oil coming out of my upper oil cooler line. Now, I did have a heck of a time getting that line seated and threaded properly the first go round so hindsight is 20/20 and I win this time since i bought TWO o-rings, lol. So, back in the shop I go to rip most of it apart again and put the new o-ring on the upper oil cooler line. Stretch the crap out the line the best I could to get it seated properly in the female end of the rad and screwed it in tight.

Viola, no more leak!

thanks for all of your help. I can now change a rad out in less than 2 hours including clean up. lol

Ken

Glad you got it done Ken, that was a mess, I am sorry it was so involved. My 96 does not have the oil cooler lines or I would have warned you. I am actually surprised they are still using the came oring arrangement since 91

Glad you stopped the leak

[gkliethermes]

Thanks for the detailed thread. I replaced the radiator in my 95 STS today, and when I fired it up I have a huge oil leak from the lower oil cooler line at the radiator. Huge as in probably 1/2 quart spewed out in 20 seconds. I didn't notice any O-rings on the line when I removed it, but now that I know there should be one (or two!) I'll know what to do tomorrow when I pull the #$*&^@ thing apart. And I might as well check the trans cooler lines while I have it all apart again. ARGGHH! :-)

[BodybyFisher]

Thanks for the detailed thread. I replaced the radiator in my 95 STS today, and when I fired it up I have a huge oil leak from the lower oil cooler line at the radiator. Huge as in probably 1/2 quart spewed out in 20 seconds. I didn't notice any O-rings on the line when I removed it, but now that I know there should be one (or two!) I'll know what to do tomorrow when I pull the #$*&^@ thing apart. And I might as well check the trans cooler lines while I have it all apart again. ARGGHH! :-)

YES, the 95 has o-rings on the ends of the oil cooler lines and tranny cooler lines that must be replaced when disturbed, get them at the dealer, you will NOT find these orings at a parts house

[gkliethermes]

YES, the 95 has o-rings on the ends of the oil cooler lines and tranny cooler lines that must be replaced when disturbed, get them at the dealer, you will NOT find these orings at a parts house

The dealer parts departments are all closed today, so I went to a local auto parts store and bought a large o-ring assortment. They are rubber o-rings and the correct size - any reason that I shouldn't use them? Are the ones from the dealer made of a special material?

[BodybyFisher]

if you have the exact size its fine, but when I needed them, I was unable to find them, its not just the diameter of the o-ring, its the diameter of the ring's rubber itself,

Not sure if that is clear but you are looking at inner and outer diameter, if you can confirm they are exact, try them and see if they work

[gkliethermes]

Cool - According to this (http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/components/1995-cadillac-seville~k-engine-oil-cooler-lines-6m010260101-l37m136ks69.html) part # 25533913 is a 10.5mm ID that's 1.8mm thick. The assortment I got at the parts store includes a 10.5mm that's 2mm thick, so I'm gonna give it a shot. I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't a special teflon or nylon o-ring before I put it all back together.

Thanks for the information!

[BodybyFisher]

Good, let us know how it turns out, lube the o-ring with oil to help it be inserted into the bore

[gkliethermes]

Got it all back together and drove around for 20 minutes to make sure it was good and warm. No leaks anywhere so far - which is a LOT better than it was yesterday. :-)

[Texas Jim]

Got it all back together and drove around for 20 minutes to make sure it was good and warm. No leaks anywhere so far - which is a LOT better than it was yesterday. :-)

That's good news.

Looks like it may be fixed.

[BodybyFisher]

Got it all back together and drove around for 20 minutes to make sure it was good and warm. No leaks anywhere so far - which is a LOT better than it was yesterday. :-)

Glad to hear it, good job

Don't forget to use the cooling supplement tablets, crush 4 and put them in the upper hose when cool